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Science Forum Index » Electronics - Repair Forum » Desoldering wattage and tip size for tight multilayer...
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| msg... |
 Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:11 pm |
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Guest
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This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael |
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| James Sweet... |
| Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:14 pm |
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Guest
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msg wrote:
Quote: This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
The heatsinking effect of planes can be a real issue. I use a 140W
Weller soldering gun for motherboard capacitor replacement, it's the
only thing I've found that puts down enough heat to remove the caps
without ripping up traces. |
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| msg... |
| Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:20 pm |
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Guest
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James Sweet wrote:
Quote:
msg wrote:
This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
The heatsinking effect of planes can be a real issue. I use a 140W
Weller soldering gun for motherboard capacitor replacement, it's the
only thing I've found that puts down enough heat to remove the caps
without ripping up traces.
Indeed. I neglected to mention that I cranked up the wattage with
a variac to about 90W but that is nowhere near what you use ;)
Michael |
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| bz... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 7:09 am |
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Guest
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James Sweet <jamessweet1 at (no spam) trashmail.net> wrote in news:Lye1k.2159$Yx.1418
at (no spam) trndny08:
Quote:
Baron wrote:
msg Inscribed thus:
James Sweet wrote:
msg wrote:
This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
The heatsinking effect of planes can be a real issue. I use a 140W
Weller soldering gun for motherboard capacitor replacement, it's the
only thing I've found that puts down enough heat to remove the caps
without ripping up traces.
Indeed. I neglected to mention that I cranked up the wattage with
a variac to about 90W but that is nowhere near what you use ;)
Michael
Hot air preheating works wonders. I use a hot air paint stripper gun to
preheat an area first before then desoldering the cap. Usually they
come out of the board quite cleanly but some manufacturers bend the
leads after insertion into the pcb, which can be a pain.
That's a great idea, I'll have to give it a try next time. Just have to
be careful not to overdo it and cause SMT parts to drop off the board.
I have built dams out of paper to protect nearby parts from the hot air.
Held the paper on the board with alligator clips.
Works fine. Also a good temperature indicator. If the paper chars too much,
your air is too hot.
caveat: I was playing with an old pcb, stripping it of parts with my hot
air gun. One of the electrolytic caps got caught in the guns nozzle.
Before I could shake it out, BANG. Small jet of flames. Shell of cap
flying across the room.
In other words "avoid overheating electrolytics, they can explode."
--
bz 73 de N5BZ k
please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.
bz+ser at (no spam) ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap |
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| Baron... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:35 am |
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Guest
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msg Inscribed thus:
Quote: James Sweet wrote:
msg wrote:
This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
The heatsinking effect of planes can be a real issue. I use a 140W
Weller soldering gun for motherboard capacitor replacement, it's the
only thing I've found that puts down enough heat to remove the caps
without ripping up traces.
Indeed. I neglected to mention that I cranked up the wattage with
a variac to about 90W but that is nowhere near what you use ;)
Michael
Hot air preheating works wonders. I use a hot air paint stripper gun to
preheat an area first before then desoldering the cap. Usually they
come out of the board quite cleanly but some manufacturers bend the
leads after insertion into the pcb, which can be a pain.
--
Best Reagrds:
Baron. |
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| James Sweet... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:45 am |
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Guest
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Baron wrote:
Quote: msg Inscribed thus:
James Sweet wrote:
msg wrote:
This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
The heatsinking effect of planes can be a real issue. I use a 140W
Weller soldering gun for motherboard capacitor replacement, it's the
only thing I've found that puts down enough heat to remove the caps
without ripping up traces.
Indeed. I neglected to mention that I cranked up the wattage with
a variac to about 90W but that is nowhere near what you use ;)
Michael
Hot air preheating works wonders. I use a hot air paint stripper gun to
preheat an area first before then desoldering the cap. Usually they
come out of the board quite cleanly but some manufacturers bend the
leads after insertion into the pcb, which can be a pain.
That's a great idea, I'll have to give it a try next time. Just have to
be careful not to overdo it and cause SMT parts to drop off the board. |
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| N_Cook... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:46 am |
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Guest
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Baron <baron.nospam at (no spam) linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:g23kp1$rdv$1 at (no spam) registered.motzarella.org...
Quote: msg Inscribed thus:
James Sweet wrote:
msg wrote:
This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
The heatsinking effect of planes can be a real issue. I use a 140W
Weller soldering gun for motherboard capacitor replacement, it's the
only thing I've found that puts down enough heat to remove the caps
without ripping up traces.
Indeed. I neglected to mention that I cranked up the wattage with
a variac to about 90W but that is nowhere near what you use ;)
Michael
Hot air preheating works wonders. I use a hot air paint stripper gun to
preheat an area first before then desoldering the cap. Usually they
come out of the board quite cleanly but some manufacturers bend the
leads after insertion into the pcb, which can be a pain.
--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.
My tool for that is a dart with a bolt exchanged for the flight.
Without heating, excavate around the solder with the dart until you can
lever the pin up.
But then I continue on , using the hot-air only.
Another recently discovered aid for this process.
I saw a plumber using some woven glass mat to protect a cupboard before
soldering.
As I had plenty of GRP grade woven mat I glued together 4 bits of sheet of
that , using contact adhesive (discolours but holds together on hot air
heating).
Cut a hole to match the area of interest and lightly clamp the mat to the
board , mounted in a vice with protected jaws.
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
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| Andy Cuffe... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:14 pm |
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On Mon, 02 Jun 2008 14:11:32 -0500, msg <msg at (no spam) _cybertheque.org_> wrote:
Quote: This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
I wouldn't even attempt to do this without a temperature controlled
soldering station. You need a lot of power, but with no temperature
control, you're likely to over heat the board and lift traces. It's
also critical to have a clean properly tinned tip.
Andy Cuffe
acuffe at (no spam) gmail.com |
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| James Sweet... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:24 pm |
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Guest
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Andy Cuffe wrote:
Quote: On Mon, 02 Jun 2008 14:11:32 -0500, msg <msg at (no spam) _cybertheque.org_> wrote:
This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
I wouldn't even attempt to do this without a temperature controlled
soldering station. You need a lot of power, but with no temperature
control, you're likely to over heat the board and lift traces. It's
also critical to have a clean properly tinned tip.
Andy Cuffe
acuffe at (no spam) gmail.com
I have one, but it doesn't provide enough heat. 140W gun works great,
haven't damaged a board yet, I've been soldering for a long time though. |
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| GregS... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:09 pm |
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Guest
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In article <6c2b44tqpbdgcbcujf4anctqhcnt7erv65 at (no spam) 4ax.com>, acuffe at (no spam) gmail.com wrote:
Quote: On Mon, 02 Jun 2008 14:11:32 -0500, msg <msg at (no spam) _cybertheque.org_> wrote:
This Saturday I replaced seven popped Nichicon electrolytics
in my iMac G5; it took me nearly five hours of intense battling
with too-tight hole sizes and high-thermal conductivity planes
but the job got done and the fix worked. Has anyone worked
on this planar and can comment? What wattage and tip sizes
worked for you? I used a 65 watt iron and ground the tip into
various chisels and angled points, used excess solder and flux
and tried an amount of preheating but it really was a _bitch_
to do. I kinda doubt the board was made for repairing.
Michael
I wouldn't even attempt to do this without a temperature controlled
soldering station. You need a lot of power, but with no temperature
control, you're likely to over heat the board and lift traces. It's
also critical to have a clean properly tinned tip.
Andy Cuffe
acuffe at (no spam) gmail.com
Having a Weller miniature iron with 80 watts is sure nice. Sometimes I combine heats from
the 3 outputs. Desolder, solderer, and hot air. I have used 2 irons before.
For the rough things sometimes I also use a Bic lighter against the iron for a afterburner effect.
The RS 250 watt gun, then the torch.
I got so tired of watching the game last night, I got to the point I just wanted anybody to win so it was all
over....
greg
Lets go Pens |
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| Michael A. Terrell... |
| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:13 pm |
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Guest
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bz wrote:
Quote:
caveat: I was playing with an old pcb, stripping it of parts with my hot
air gun. One of the electrolytic caps got caught in the guns nozzle.
Before I could shake it out, BANG. Small jet of flames. Shell of cap
flying across the room.
In other words "avoid overheating electrolytics, they can explode."
Wimp! ;-)
--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html
If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm
Sporadic E is the Earth's aluminum foil beanie for the 'global warming'
sheep. |
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