Basic Equip Needs for SMAW Arc Welding?

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Jones

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:13 pm

Guest

Another newbie question, folks. I searched but didn't find this exact
question addressed.

I'm thinking of getting a stick (AC/DC) or wire-feed arc welder, but I
know there's a fair amount of other stuff I need too.

Can anyone advise me on the basics I'll absolutely need right away?

My list so far:

Auto-darking helmet (I was looking at one that darkens in 1/25,000 sec
from Northern Equip for $50)
Gloves
Slag hammer(s) ... is one enough, or do I need different types?
I have a 4" angle grinder, wire wheels, files, etc.
I have *some* clamps for woodworking
Do I "absolutely" need some kind of apron or body covering?
Are those funky "welder hats" that the ship builders wear necessary? ;-)

What else?

Thank you for any information.

Jonesy.

Grant Erwin

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:22 pm

Guest

Jones wrote:

Quote:

Nice to have, don't worry about the turnon time spec as the lens is coated
so that even if it never turns on your eyes won't get damaged

Quote:

Gloves
Slag hammer(s) ... is one enough, or do I need different types?

One is enough - I use the hatchet-style type, also I use a small chisel and
one pound hammer when I care about cosmetics.

Quote:

I have a 4" angle grinder, wire wheels, files, etc.

Flap wheels are great.

Quote:

I have *some* clamps for woodworking

I use Vise-Grip clamps in the 6" and 10" sizes, and a variety of pieces of
scrap both flat and 90 (cut from angle iron) deburred, for clamping

Quote:

Do I "absolutely" need some kind of apron or body covering?

No. You can get away with heavy cotton clothes.

Quote:

Are those funky "welder hats" that the ship builders wear necessary? Wink

No. Only for overhead or for high-up work where the sparks fly over your hood
and land in your hair. When you need one, you will know. :-)

Quote:

What else?

Thank you for any information.

Jonesy.

Ernie Leimkuhler

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:35 pm

Guest

In article <2008042417131716807-at@yourhousenet>, Jones
<at@yourhouse.net> wrote:

Quote:

Heavy gauntlet style gloves, and some lighter gloves for just grinding
and shop work.

Quote:

Slag hammer(s) ... is one enough, or do I need different types?

One is usually enough.
I prefer the the straight peen type, but some prefer the cross peen.
Straight peen means the chisel edge is parallel with the handle.

Quote:

I have a 4" angle grinder, wire wheels, files, etc.

move to a 4-1/2" grinder.

4" grinders are just too tiny and really loud.

Quote:

I have *some* clamps for woodworking

Be careful of clamps with plastic or rubber jaws, or other plastic bits
that will melt.

Quote:

Do I "absolutely" need some kind of apron or body covering?

Depends.
I wear blue jeans and a heavy Carhart button up shirt for almost all of
my welding.
If I was doing a LOT of overhead work I would wear leathers.

Quote:

Are those funky "welder hats" that the ship builders wear necessary? ;-)

For a keen fashion statement, yes, or just to keep crap out of your
hair.

Quote:

What else?

Soapstone,
Wire hand brushes, both big and small.
A bunch of spare cover lenses for your hood.
High top, closed toe, all leather, work shoes. (steel toes are optional)
Spare shoe laces (hot metal eats laces)
A few pairs of safety glasses.
#5 Burning glasses if doing any torch work.
Ear plugs (I prefer the type on the plastic spring that sits around
your neck when not in use)

Channel locks
Visegrips.
Hammers of various sizes.

John Miller

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:14 pm

Guest

Something to cut he stock with; hacksaw, band saw, chop saw and more clamps
(never enough). If you hair is challenged you'll appreciate the funky cap -
or even if your welding is done in a cold climate. Don't ask how I know<G>.

--
J Miller
"Jones" <at@yourhouse.net> wrote in message
news:2008042417131716807-at@yourhousenet...

Quote:

SteveB

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:15 pm

Guest

"Jones" <at@yourhouse.net> wrote in message
news:2008042417131716807-at@yourhousenet...

Quote:

You got the basics.

Autodark - that one will be good enough until it wears out or you start
making good money and want a better one.
Gloves - shop around. The most expensive aren't always the best.
Get some safety glasses or a face shield. THIS IS A NECESSITY.
Wear COTTON clothing with NO FRAYED EDGES. I like Wrangler khaki western
shirts with the snap ties. Get you some Wellington style (should be steel
toe) boots so the slag doesn't go down and burn your shoelaces, then your
toes.
The hats are necessary. The color is up to you. They have been known to
help you fight better. Wink

GET EAR PROTECTION. I like the ones on the spring clip. A hot dingleberry
in your ear can end your welding career in two seconds. No lie.
Get soapstones and a holder. Get some squares, tri-square, adjustable bevel
square, etc.
One slag hammer is enough. Get a broken piece of hacksaw blade and use the
pointy part to scratch along the edge of your weld to get out the fine
stuff.
Irvin 11R are good welding clamps. Other depending on what you're working
on. You can't have too many clamps.

Then just do it. You'll fill in with more stuff. Most important rule: You
cannot have too many tools.

Steve

Maxwell

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:51 pm

Guest

"Jones" <at@yourhouse.net> wrote in message
news:2008042417131716807-at@yourhousenet...

Quote:

Considering everything else suggested, first I would have to restate the
high top boots. Keep at least a heavy cotton pant leg over the top of a
leather boot.

Other than that, a good torch or plasma cutter, and maybe a chop saw,
depending on the scope of your work.

Jim Wilkins

Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 2:18 am

Guest

No cuffs on the pants or open-topped shirt pockets.
A fire extinguisher or at least a small spray bottle of water.
Some way to keep curious bystanders from looking at the arc, or a
spare helmet.
Pliers kept close so you aren't tempted to pick up something red-hot
with the gloves.
The welding-clamp style of Vise-Grip or the cheap import equivalents.
A flat surface to assemble the pieces on. Scraps of particle board
work, firebricks last longer.

Jim Wilkins

Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 10:56 am

Guest

On Apr 26, 2:29 pm, Grant Erwin <gr...@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:

Quote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:...
The welding-clamp style of Vise-Grip or the cheap import equivalents.

I beg to differ here. Cheap import welding clamps are often useless. Actual
Irwin Vise-Grip clamps (I use both the 6R and 11R) aren't cheap but they last
many many years and they flat out work.

Just checked, mine are 6Rs and 11Rs. The import one with a 10" reach
that also works well is stamped Taiwan.

Quote:

A flat surface to assemble the pieces on. Scraps of particle board
work, firebricks last longer.

Or a piece of 3/8" plate steel 30" square and an old oil drum. Makes a fine
welding table, I used one like that for 15 years. When you aren't using it,
lean the plate against a wall outside. Every so often knock off the loose rust
and wipe it with some linseed oil. After a few years it won't rust anymore but
will stay a nice dark brown.
GWE

Even better, but I didn't expect a newbie to already have a good scrap
steel collection.

Grant Erwin

Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:29 pm

Guest

Jim Wilkins wrote:

Quote:

I beg to differ here. Cheap import welding clamps are often useless. Actual
Irwin Vise-Grip clamps (I use both the 6R and 11R) aren't cheap but they last
many many years and they flat out work.

Quote:

A flat surface to assemble the pieces on. Scraps of particle board
work, firebricks last longer.

Or a piece of 3/8" plate steel 30" square and an old oil drum. Makes a fine
welding table, I used one like that for 15 years. When you aren't using it,
lean the plate against a wall outside. Every so often knock off the loose rust
and wipe it with some linseed oil. After a few years it won't rust anymore but
will stay a nice dark brown.

GWE

Jones

Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 3:45 pm

Guest

On 2008-04-26 14:29:18 -0400, Grant Erwin <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> said:

Quote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
No cuffs on the pants or open-topped shirt pockets.
A fire extinguisher or at least a small spray bottle of water.
Some way to keep curious bystanders from looking at the arc, or a
spare helmet.
Pliers kept close so you aren't tempted to pick up something red-hot
with the gloves.
The welding-clamp style of Vise-Grip or the cheap import equivalents.

I beg to differ here. Cheap import welding clamps are often useless.
Actual Irwin Vise-Grip clamps (I use both the 6R and 11R) aren't cheap
but they last many many years and they flat out work.

A flat surface to assemble the pieces on. Scraps of particle board
work, firebricks last longer.

Or a piece of 3/8" plate steel 30" square and an old oil drum. Makes a fine
welding table, I used one like that for 15 years. When you aren't using it,
lean the plate against a wall outside. Every so often knock off the
loose rust and wipe it with some linseed oil. After a few years it
won't rust anymore but will stay a nice dark brown.

GWE

Good stuff. Thanks guys.

Jonesy.

johnnytorch

Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:11 am

Guest

"Jones" <at@yourhouse.net> wrote in message
news:2008042417131716807-at@yourhousenet...

Quote:

Can anyone advise me on the basics I'll absolutely need right away?

My list so far:

Auto-darking helmet (I was looking at one that darkens in 1/25,000 sec
from Northern Equip for $50)

Get the best lens you can afford. I've had cheapies, but now I'm using the
Jackson Nexgen lens in a Huntsman 951P hood on Ernie L's suggestion. I'm
very satisfied. But then, I use it every day when in the shop. I just use
a regular lens in the Huntsman hood for field service. It gets too rowdy.

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/0744-0705.html

Quote:

Gloves

You local welding supplier probably has a house brand. Get a pair. You'll
see what you prefer later. Also get a pair of heavy leather work gloves.
Good for fitting and handling steel. Some guys like the mechanic style
gloves for light handling work.

Quote:

Slag hammer(s) ... is one enough, or do I need different types?

I like the Tomohawk brand. Nice wooden handle. Lasts for years.

Quote:

I have a 4" angle grinder, wire wheels, files, etc.

Good for starters. Eventually you'll have a separate grinder for all the
common wheels you use. Saves a lot of time.

Quote:

I have *some* clamps for woodworking

No such thing as enough clamps. I use the Vise-Grip 11R clamps and the
Bessy sliding F-clamps the most.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=800-1111&PMPXNO=947722

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPAGE?PMPAGE=/specials/319-9784

Quote:

Do I "absolutely" need some kind of apron or body covering?

Unless I'm doing overhead work or some really volitile gouging, I just wear
the flame retardant green cotton jacket for most stuff. A cheap leather
apron wouldn't hurt, too, when you're getting started. You'll see what you
can get away with.

Stay away from anything with synthetic fibers (nylon, polyester, etc...).
These fibers turn to napalm when lit. Not fun. Stick with cotton and
leather.

Quote:

Are those funky "welder hats" that the ship builders wear necessary? Wink

They keep the headgear in hoods from pulling your hair. Also, take some
spatter to the scalp a time or two and see if you need to ask again...

Quote:

What else?

Good comfortable ANSI Z87.1 approved safety glasses. Pretty cheap to save
your eyes.

Ear protection. Some guys like earmuff style some go with plugs. I use the
yellow E.A.R. plugs. Also cheap to save your ears.

Have the above the above installed on your head at all times in the shop.
You should feel naked with out them. Occasionally I have to replace glasses
or ear plugs because they were hit by flying molten metal. Think about it.

Good footwear. I wear RedWing steel toe boots. To get started they may be
cost prohibitive. A good comfortable boot with steel toes will suffice.
They have saved my feet before.

I'd say the personal safety stuff is an immediate must. The rest you can
get as you need.

Good luck.

John

Jim Wilkins

Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:23 pm

Guest

On Apr 27, 10:11 am, "johnnytorch" <jlweatherly...@xxxgmail.com>
wrote:

Quote:

Good for starters. Eventually you'll have a separate grinder for all the
common wheels you use. Saves a lot of time.

John

I have one good 4-1/2" grinder and two $15 ones. One cheapie holds a
wire brush on and the other a cutoff wheel. They heat up too quickly
for grinding welds flat but they are very convenient for removing flux
between passes.

Private

Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:02 pm

Guest

"johnnytorch" <jlweatherlyxxx@xxxgmail.com> wrote in message
news:p9ydnc-7LIb6FInVnZ2dnUVZ_r-dnZ2d@comcast.com...

Quote:

"Jones" <at@yourhouse.net> wrote in message
news:2008042417131716807-at@yourhousenet...

Can anyone advise me on the basics I'll absolutely need right away?

My list so far:

Auto-darking helmet (I was looking at one that darkens in 1/25,000 sec
from Northern Equip for $50)

Get the best lens you can afford. I've had cheapies, but now I'm using
the Jackson Nexgen lens in a Huntsman 951P hood on Ernie L's suggestion.
I'm very satisfied. But then, I use it every day when in the shop. I
just use a regular lens in the Huntsman hood for field service. It gets
too rowdy.

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/0744-0705.html

I have mostly used a standard small face (light & best to get your head into
tight places) hemet equiped with a gold covered plastic (flip-up) lens.
These lenses do not crack when dropped and the gold is very reflective, if
you hold your head right the lens will reflect the arc light on your weld
area and improve vision especially in dark work areas. I use clear plastic
guards on the front and back of the gold lens, and I change them often
(rotate from back of flip to base for grinding then to front of flip & then
discard, I buy them by the full box) I have always been too cheap to spring
for an expensive self darkening helmet for rough field work but have
recently purchased a cheap self darkening one and do appreciate it for small
work and particularly tacking and I also like the shade adjustability. The
auto darkening helmets are particularly good for MIG.

I use a small piece of soft leather mounted on the chin of the helmet to
shield my neck and prevent UV burning, this allows me to keep my shirt
collar open in the summer which is a lot cooler.

Quote:

Gloves

You local welding supplier probably has a house brand. Get a pair.
You'll see what you prefer later. Also get a pair of heavy leather work
gloves. Good for fitting and handling steel. Some guys like the mechanic
style gloves for light handling work.

IMHO the best gloves are the cheapest ones that you will wear all the time.
You should have your gloves on your hands as much as possible.

Quote:

Slag hammer(s) ... is one enough, or do I need different types?

I like the Tomohawk brand. Nice wooden handle. Lasts for years.

Me too, I like an air powered needle scaler for high volume work.

Quote:

I have a 4" angle grinder, wire wheels, files, etc.

Good for starters. Eventually you'll have a separate grinder for all the
common wheels you use. Saves a lot of time.

I use 4 1/2" mini grinders (5/8" drive shaft) as I can use the worn disks
and attachments from my big grinders (use caution regarding rated operating
speeds). I mount the disks on the smaller grinders when they are ~5" dia.,
small disks are not very effective on the big grinders. The worn disks are
already broken in and are much nicer than a new disk. I start with 9" disks
but they are a real bear until you get some experience with their power and
gyroscopic effects. I suggest less experienced people start with 7" disks.
I notice that the 5" grinders are very popular but are hard to use one
handed. The 5" grinders would be very nice with wire brushes but may need
larger 7" guards, they will be nicer for out of position and overhead work
but are not as powerful as a 7 or 9" grinder.. I agree that it is nice to
have several grinders to reduce the disk and brush changes.

Quote:

I have *some* clamps for woodworking

No such thing as enough clamps. I use the Vise-Grip 11R clamps and the
Bessy sliding F-clamps the most.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=800-1111&PMPXNO=947722

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPAGE?PMPAGE=/specials/319-9784

Do I "absolutely" need some kind of apron or body covering?

Unless I'm doing overhead work or some really volitile gouging, I just
wear the flame retardant green cotton jacket for most stuff. A cheap
leather apron wouldn't hurt, too, when you're getting started. You'll see
what you can get away with.

An apron is a real help when grinding.

An old heavy cotton pant leg (or leather sleeve) on your right arm can help
with the sparks and is cooler on a hot day. A real welders leather jacket
(~$100) is nice in cool weather and is windproof, lots of working welders
get a new one supplied with every job and are willing to pass their old ones
on.

Quote:

Stay away from anything with synthetic fibers (nylon, polyester, etc...).
These fibers turn to napalm when lit. Not fun. Stick with cotton and
leather.

Visit your local thrift store as they are a great source for often
surprisingly good quality work suitable clothing that it will not break your
wallet to burn up. Keep you eyes open for leather as even a ladies leather
coat can be a good source for sleeves or cut it off below the chest for
summer wear, a long coat can become a nice apron, we are not looking for
fashion.

Quote:

Are those funky "welder hats" that the ship builders wear necessary? ;-)

They keep the headgear in hoods from pulling your hair. Also, take some
spatter to the scalp a time or two and see if you need to ask again...

Welding tends to be a dirty business and wild hat colors are often the only
way to add some flash to your personal appearance. A good hat needs to be
washable as it will get very sweaty and should not have a top button as the
helmet will not fit comfortably. I like my hats to be properly sized
(non-adjustable) and have soft brims (for ear protection) they are also nice
to wear under a good hard hat (fiber-metal welders hat with welders rear
adjustable suspension worn reversed (brim back) to give good vision when
working with cranes and to prevent walking into obstructions.

Quote:

What else?

Good comfortable ANSI Z87.1 approved safety glasses. Pretty cheap to save
your eyes.

This cannot be over emphasised, welding is bad enough but grinding and
ESPECIALLY power WIRE BRUSHES and grinders can really spoil the rest of your
days. I like dark glasses when outdoors, they help to darken the total
shade in your helmet.

Quote:

Ear protection. Some guys like earmuff style some go with plugs. I use
the yellow E.A.R. plugs. Also cheap to save your ears.

Ear plugs will help prevent sparks in your ears, and this is the reason
(right handed) pipe welders wear their hat brims sideways over their left
ear. I also have a small thin pair of ear muffs that will fit under my
helmet. If I am just puttering around in a quiet environment, I do not
always wear my plugs, but I do use the muffs whenever I am doing anything
noisy and especially with the grinders as they are just the kind of noise it
is easy to ignore just long enough for some real long term permanent damage.

Quote:

Have the above the above installed on your head at all times in the shop.
You should feel naked with out them. Occasionally I have to replace
glasses or ear plugs because they were hit by flying molten metal. Think
about it.

Good footwear. I wear RedWing steel toe boots. To get started they may
be cost prohibitive. A good comfortable boot with steel toes will
suffice. They have saved my feet before.

I'd say the personal safety stuff is an immediate must. The rest you can
get as you need.

Good luck.

John

I especially agree with your comments about safety and the importance of
wearing full PPE at all times. This is a very dangerous business that is
very unforgiving of ignorance or carelessness.

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