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| Phil Hobbs... |
 Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 1:05 am |
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Guest
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Frogwatch wrote:
[quote:9b128ea50d]On Oct 1, 6:09 pm, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSensel... at (no spam) electrooptical.net
wrote:
Kyle wrote:
Thanks for the inputs. I have seen websites suggesting the use of
dishwashing detergent as well. It seems that compressed air/solvent
and lens tissue are the only way to clean optics that are in a mount
in a setup. Thanks again everyone.
Kyle
Microfibre cloth does a good job if it's clean. Much better than Q
tips, anyway.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
Yeah, you do have to be careful about getting the liquid from the
canned air. Maybe I'll try the R134 trick.
BTW, there is a guy who always shows up at Microscopy shows with this
gadget attached to a CO2 cylinder where he uses CO2 snow to clean
optics, kinda interesting.
[/quote:9b128ea50d]
There's a huge thermal shock with CO2 snow, which can make coatings
craze. You can try it out with a $12 fire extinguisher, but don't use
it on anything you care about.
OTOH liquid CO2 is about the best organic solvent out there, so if the
coatings survive, you certainly don't have any fingerprint oil left on
that surface.
[quote:9b128ea50d]I'd forgo the acetone unless I needed to dissolve something. Just use
very dilute palmolive followed by distilled water from the grocery
store and then blow the droplets off with canned air.
I make x-ray optics. One day a representative from a govt scientific
agency I will not name called me up desperate to know how we cleaned
our optics. These are s'posed to be THE EXPERTS so I sorta danced
around what cleaner I used not wanting I used something as
unscientific as Palmolive. Finally they kept calling back and I had
to confess it was not some super expensive special x-ray optics
cleaning product but Palmolive from the grocery store.
[/quote:9b128ea50d]
Fun.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net |
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| Helpful person |
| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:03 am |
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Joined: 22 Jun 2004
Posts: 837
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On Oct 2, 10:50 am, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSensel... at (no spam) electrooptical.net>
[quote:7d926aaa29]
Also plastic lenses can be a problem...IPA crazes acrylic instantly.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
[/quote:7d926aaa29]
Freon used to be one of the best agents to clean plastic lenses en
masse. However, that cannot be used anymore.
www.richardfisher.com |
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| Don Stauffer... |
| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:19 am |
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Guest
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anorton wrote:
[quote:db95811435]"Don Stauffer" <stauffer at (no spam) usfamily.net> wrote in message
news:4ac4b67c$0$89384$815e3792 at (no spam) news.qwest.net...
Kyle wrote:
Would anyone happen to know of any good guides for cleaning optics in
a research laboratory setting? Our group uses alcohol pads but I find
these to be very unsatisfactory because of the residue they leave. I
have used methanol and the "drag" method with lens tissue in the past,
but don't have access to methanol currently. Is acetone a suitable
organic solvent that doesn't streak? Thanks.
Kyle
I would NOT use acetone on any coated lens. Our techs always used
isopropyl if there were no instructions on specific cleaning methods. I
don't think we had any coatings that were water soluble.
While iso is okay on most coated glass optics, apparently alcohols do
damage LCD screens. Advice seems to be use de-ionized water and very mild
soap.
Why do you advise against acetone on any coated lens?
I guess I should have restricted it to any unknown coating. If the[/quote:db95811435]
instructions for that coating say to use acetone, okay. However, I have
seen coatings damaged by acetone and similar solvents. |
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| Phil Hobbs... |
| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:50 am |
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Guest
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Don Stauffer wrote:
[quote:9ced85365b]anorton wrote:
"Don Stauffer" <stauffer at (no spam) usfamily.net> wrote in message
news:4ac4b67c$0$89384$815e3792 at (no spam) news.qwest.net...
Kyle wrote:
Would anyone happen to know of any good guides for cleaning optics in
a research laboratory setting? Our group uses alcohol pads but I find
these to be very unsatisfactory because of the residue they leave. I
have used methanol and the "drag" method with lens tissue in the past,
but don't have access to methanol currently. Is acetone a suitable
organic solvent that doesn't streak? Thanks.
Kyle
I would NOT use acetone on any coated lens. Our techs always used
isopropyl if there were no instructions on specific cleaning methods.
I don't think we had any coatings that were water soluble.
While iso is okay on most coated glass optics, apparently alcohols do
damage LCD screens. Advice seems to be use de-ionized water and very
mild soap.
Why do you advise against acetone on any coated lens?
I guess I should have restricted it to any unknown coating. If the
instructions for that coating say to use acetone, okay. However, I have
seen coatings damaged by acetone and similar solvents.
[/quote:9ced85365b]
Also plastic lenses can be a problem...IPA crazes acrylic instantly.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net |
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| Skywise... |
| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 12:09 pm |
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Guest
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Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless at (no spam) electrooptical.net> wrote in
news:3rCdneC2qpbXO1jXnZ2dnUVZ_qOdnZ2d at (no spam) supernews.com:
[quote:57a8a42b31]OTOH liquid CO2 is about the best organic solvent out there, so if the
coatings survive, you certainly don't have any fingerprint oil left on
that surface.
[/quote:57a8a42b31]
If I'm not mistaken, that's what they use on the BIG optics.
Like the 10 meter Keck.
Brian
--
http://www.skywise711.com - Lasers, Seismology, Astronomy, Skepticism
Seismic FAQ: http://www.skywise711.com/SeismicFAQ/SeismicFAQ.html
Quake "predictions": http://www.skywise711.com/quakes/EQDB/index.html
Sed quis custodiet ipsos Custodes? |
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| anorton... |
| Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 2:40 pm |
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Guest
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"Don Stauffer" <stauffer at (no spam) usfamily.net> wrote in message
news:4ac60bea$0$89397$815e3792 at (no spam) news.qwest.net...
[quote:175b6d4920]anorton wrote:
"Don Stauffer" <stauffer at (no spam) usfamily.net> wrote in message
news:4ac4b67c$0$89384$815e3792 at (no spam) news.qwest.net...
Kyle wrote:
Would anyone happen to know of any good guides for cleaning optics in
a research laboratory setting? Our group uses alcohol pads but I find
these to be very unsatisfactory because of the residue they leave. I
have used methanol and the "drag" method with lens tissue in the past,
but don't have access to methanol currently. Is acetone a suitable
organic solvent that doesn't streak? Thanks.
Kyle
I would NOT use acetone on any coated lens. Our techs always used
isopropyl if there were no instructions on specific cleaning methods. I
don't think we had any coatings that were water soluble.
While iso is okay on most coated glass optics, apparently alcohols do
damage LCD screens. Advice seems to be use de-ionized water and very
mild soap.
Why do you advise against acetone on any coated lens?
I guess I should have restricted it to any unknown coating. If the
instructions for that coating say to use acetone, okay. However, I have
seen coatings damaged by acetone and similar solvents.
[/quote:175b6d4920]
What kind of coatings have you seen damaged by acetone but not alcohol?
True, acetone and other solvents can damaged plastic substrates, epoxy
replicated optics and the occasional organic thin film, but I have never
seen acetone harm an inorganic thinfilm coating on glass. I am asking
because this is one of those pieces of optical cleaning superstition I have
heard before but have never seen any direct evidence of in 30+ years of
working with optics. What I HAVE seen are coatings that are so delicate or
porous that ANY cleaning or wiping damages them, but then people attribute
the damage to the particular technique or solvent they happened to have
used.
--
Adam Norton
Norton Engineered Optics
www.nortonoptics.com
(Remove antispam feature before replying) |
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| matt... |
| Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:24 am |
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Guest
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I just thought I would throw in my $0.02 worth, based on some decades
of professional experience in both plastics machining and optical
metrology equipment manufacturing --
IPA is a useful solvent for general cleaning purposes. It does not
"instantly craze" acrylic material in general, BUT it will instantly
cause crazing on highly-stressed acrylic material, such as parts that
have been machined badly or extensively, and on molded acrylic parts
such as lenses. It is highly dependent on how much heat has been
introduced into the part during the processes, and crazing can occur
as a process over time as well based on the stress level in the
plastic.
Methanol is by far the best solvent for bench cleaning, especially
where lens tissues and drag/wipe technique can be employed. Its high
evaporation rate is a big benefit as compared to IPA. It can be used
effectively as well with standard cotton swabs or with the more
sophisticated cleanroom-type swabs like the Texwipe Absorbond line or
other similar stuff. Spotty residue is generally solved with fresh
solvent (no absorbed water), and as noted earlier, not outrunning the
evaporation process.
Acetone is also useful for resistant oil-type contamination. I have
used 50/50 mixes af acetone/methanol in some cases. Acetone is a
complete no-no on plastic optics, as is methanol. Additionally, be
cautious around cemented doublets or any other cemented optics with
either methanol or especially acetone. The cement can be attacked if
the exposure to these solvents is significant.
I agree with the previous poster about inorganic thin-film coatings
not being sensitive to most common solvents. I have seen cautions
against cleaning with or without solvents on printed literature
supplied with things such as narrow bandwidth filters, made by
companies like Omega and others. I believe this is also simply an
indication that the films are extremely delicate, and any touch is a
risk.
Keep your solvents fresh. The solvents under discussion are extremely
hygroscopic, and I have found it best to buy the best possible grade,
such as HPLC grade, in small sealed containers like 500ml or 1 liter,
put small amounts in use dispensers, and dispose of it when it gives
bad results after a few days of atmospheric exposure. Keep the main
stock sealed as much as possible.
Final notes: Always blow the dust off before wiping. Little spots of
water-soluble contaminants, like spit or coffee spray, will never come
off with alcohols. Always try water as a last resort when a "non-
cleanable" spot gives you problems. |
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| gr... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:34 pm |
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Guest
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Kyle wrote:
[quote:92703cd843]Would anyone happen to know of any good guides for cleaning optics in
a research laboratory setting? Our group uses alcohol pads but I find
these to be very unsatisfactory because of the residue they leave. I
have used methanol and the "drag" method with lens tissue in the past,
but don't have access to methanol currently. Is acetone a suitable
organic solvent that doesn't streak? Thanks.
Kyle
This blog has a decent procedure and comments on cleaning. Note that[/quote:92703cd843]
previous blogs have good things to say about the current state of
scratch dig standards.
http://www.laserfocusworld.com/blogs/wk_smart/index.html
gr |
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| David Combs... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:39 pm |
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Guest
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In article <9f664663-9d67-4844-ab0e-7329ad271566 at (no spam) f18g2000prf.googlegroups.com>,
matt <mbostonsprint at (no spam) earthlink.net> wrote:
[quote]I just thought I would throw in my $0.02 worth, based on some decades
of professional experience in both plastics machining and optical
metrology equipment manufacturing --
IPA is a useful solvent for general cleaning purposes. It does not
"instantly craze" acrylic material in general, BUT it will instantly
cause crazing on highly-stressed acrylic material, such as parts that
have been machined badly or extensively, and on molded acrylic parts
such as lenses. It is highly dependent on how much heat has been
introduced into the part during the processes, and crazing can occur
as a process over time as well based on the stress level in the
plastic.
Methanol is by far the best solvent for bench cleaning, especially
where lens tissues and drag/wipe technique can be employed. Its high
evaporation rate is a big benefit as compared to IPA. It can be used
effectively as well with standard cotton swabs or with the more
sophisticated cleanroom-type swabs like the Texwipe Absorbond line or
other similar stuff. Spotty residue is generally solved with fresh
solvent (no absorbed water), and as noted earlier, not outrunning the
evaporation process.
Acetone is also useful for resistant oil-type contamination. I have
used 50/50 mixes af acetone/methanol in some cases. Acetone is a
complete no-no on plastic optics, as is methanol. Additionally, be
cautious around cemented doublets or any other cemented optics with
either methanol or especially acetone. The cement can be attacked if
the exposure to these solvents is significant.
I agree with the previous poster about inorganic thin-film coatings
not being sensitive to most common solvents. I have seen cautions
against cleaning with or without solvents on printed literature
supplied with things such as narrow bandwidth filters, made by
companies like Omega and others. I believe this is also simply an
indication that the films are extremely delicate, and any touch is a
risk.
Keep your solvents fresh. The solvents under discussion are extremely
hygroscopic, and I have found it best to buy the best possible grade,
such as HPLC grade, in small sealed containers like 500ml or 1 liter,
put small amounts in use dispensers, and dispose of it when it gives
bad results after a few days of atmospheric exposure. Keep the main
stock sealed as much as possible.
Final notes: Always blow the dust off before wiping. Little spots of
water-soluble contaminants, like spit or coffee spray, will never come
off with alcohols. Always try water as a last resort when a "non-
cleanable" spot gives you problems.
[/quote]
I got here when the above post was the only one left, so maybe
it's already been answered.
I asked the optician (the guy who "makes" the glasses) at the store where
I buy my eye-glasses how to best clean these "plastic" glasses.
(I *vastly* prefer glass -- can clean with dawn soap, easy! -- but
they no longer make *glass* "executive" bifocals.)
He said alcohol, eg rubbing alcohol. I asked with paper towels,
Bounty paper towels, he said yes, but ONLY bounty, only that
brand wouldn't scratch.
Note: (seemingly unlike most of humanity), I'm really sensitive to
having *any* smudge on my glasses. So much so that I often get
some soap (dawn, of course, very diluted) and wash my face with it,
over the kitchen sink, to get rid of all those skin-secreted
oils that would work their way from my nose onto the edge
of the glasses.
Which shows how important to me it is to have super-clear lenses.
So, is he correct? Or what?
Thanks!
David |
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| Richard J Kinch... |
| Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 2:58 am |
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Guest
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David Combs writes:
[quote]So, is he correct? Or what?
[/quote]
Cleaning plastic eyeglass lenses: Rinse in water to remove grit. Rub
gently and briefly to remove oily film with diluted Dawn using only wetted
fingers. Rinse. Tap to remove most water. Dab dry with paper towels,
don't rub. |
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