"Michael Kennedy" <Mikek400 at (no spam) remthis.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:Bq-dnUl_ne9qKr_VnZ2dnUVZ_hKdnZ2d at (no spam) comcast.com...
"James Sweet" <jamessweet at (no spam) hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3P%Tj.19807$aA1.15676 at (no spam) trnddc05...
"Heinz Schmitz" <HeinzSchmitz at (no spam) gmx.net> wrote in message
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James Sweet wrote:
Usually when one of these
surface mount capacitors is bad, the rest are nearly shot too. I
usually
replace them all, then the thing is good for years.
I'd be interested to know what makes you so sure that the caps
you bought for replacement are of superior longevity compared
to those the manufacturer did put in

.
Regards,
H.
Well for starters they don't have several years of use on them. All else
being equal, they're probably not. I hate surface mount lytics.
I replace them with regular through hole caps. It usually works without
any problems. Just bend over the leads and solder them to the lands on
the board. The biggest reason I do this is I can`t get smd stuff locally
but can get almost any value through hole cap.
Mike
That's interesting. On some Sony servo boards fitted to many of their CD
players a few years back, there were three sm electros along one edge of
the board, which used to go faulty, and occasionally leak. This gave the
symptom of either totally refusing to play, or very poor playability. If
you tried to sub regular electros for them, the board would never work
again, even if it worked, allbeit poorly, before. However, fit the correct
sm types, and it would immediately work again to full original spec.
Arfa