I know I already used one coupon this month, so sue me.

I bought an old SA 200 welder with a 1.75 kw rated plug for tools. This is
stated in the Lincoln download manual. The current available is 15 amps,
per manual.

I am interested if I can run a 110v. Lincoln 140 MIG on that circuit. The
required amperage at FULL LOAD is 20 amps. I do not see any breakers on the
SA 200, so don't know what type of protection they have on there if a larger
than acceptable load is put on that circuit. Also, there are two plugs on
the machine. Any way to wire the two together to up the amperage? (maybe
that's the third dumb question ...........)

Can I just use a tester and check the voltage and amperage on those plugs
with the machine running? For the electricital whizzes out there, what does
1.75 kw convert to in layman's terms?

Could I use this intermittently on a very short duty cycle for wrought iron
repairs, or even look for a smaller machine that has less current draw? Is
there such a thing? This would be for small .065" tubing repairs.

If absolutely necessary, I can use the DC part of the welder and 3/32" 6011
DCSP.

Steve

I know I already used one coupon this month, so sue me.

I bought an old SA 200 welder with a 1.75 kw rated plug for tools. This
is stated in the Lincoln download manual. The current available is 15
amps, per manual.

"SteveB" <toquerville,utah at (no spam) zionvistas> wrote in message
news:uip7f5-n5l.ln1 at (no spam) news.infowest.com...
I know I already used one coupon this month, so sue me.

I bought an old SA 200 welder with a 1.75 kw rated plug for tools. This
is stated in the Lincoln download manual. The current available is 15
amps, per manual.


Does this mean if you downloaded two more manuals, you could run 45 amps?

I know I already used one coupon this month, so sue me.

I bought an old SA 200 welder with a 1.75 kw rated plug for tools. This is
stated in the Lincoln download manual. The current available is 15 amps,
per manual.

I am interested if I can run a 110v. Lincoln 140 MIG on that circuit. The
required amperage at FULL LOAD is 20 amps. I do not see any breakers on the
SA 200, so don't know what type of protection they have on there if a larger
than acceptable load is put on that circuit. Also, there are two plugs on
the machine. Any way to wire the two together to up the amperage? (maybe
that's the third dumb question ...........)

Can I just use a tester and check the voltage and amperage on those plugs
with the machine running? For the electricital whizzes out there, what does
1.75 kw convert to in layman's terms?

Could I use this intermittently on a very short duty cycle for wrought iron
repairs, or even look for a smaller machine that has less current draw? Is
there such a thing? This would be for small .065" tubing repairs.

If absolutely necessary, I can use the DC part of the welder and 3/32" 6011
DCSP.

Steve

According to page 4 of ONE of the SA-200manuals (not sure which one you
have)
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM276.pdf
the 115 volt output is DC, so a wire feed with definitely NOT work. As
in fry the wire feed welder instantly kind of not work.

Worse than that, it indicates that there is no real overload protection
other than the circuit board. Not a good thing.

SteveB wrote:

I know I already used one coupon this month, so sue me.

I bought an old SA 200 welder with a 1.75 kw rated plug for tools.
This is stated in the Lincoln download manual. The current available
is 15 amps, per manual.

I am interested if I can run a 110v. Lincoln 140 MIG on that circuit.
The required amperage at FULL LOAD is 20 amps. I do not see any
breakers on the SA 200, so don't know what type of protection they
have on there if a larger than acceptable load is put on that
circuit. Also, there are two plugs on the machine. Any way to wire
the two together to up the amperage? (maybe that's the third dumb
question ...........)

Can I just use a tester and check the voltage and amperage on those
plugs with the machine running? For the electricital whizzes out
there, what does 1.75 kw convert to in layman's terms?

Could I use this intermittently on a very short duty cycle for wrought
iron repairs, or even look for a smaller machine that has less current
draw? Is there such a thing? This would be for small .065" tubing
repairs.

If absolutely necessary, I can use the DC part of the welder and 3/32"
6011 DCSP.

Steve

"Grant Erwin" <grant at (no spam) NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:dFJUj.296$Nf.194 at (no spam) trndny03...

Just use it to run your grinders, which are very happy running on DC.

Grant

RoyJ wrote:


According to page 4 of ONE of the SA-200manuals (not sure which one you
have)
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM276.pdf
the 115 volt output is DC, so a wire feed with definitely NOT work. As in
fry the wire feed welder instantly kind of not work.

Worse than that, it indicates that there is no real overload protection
other than the circuit board. Not a good thing.



Talked to the local artisan today. A lot of his work is approaching 5
years of age, and occasionally needs a tweak, a lock adjust, a hinge
adjustment. He doesn't want to take two guys off making gates and CUSTOM
work to go do this.

I, on the other hand, want to go do this light work. Only thing I have to
do is get a Lincoln 140 MIG so I can merely plug into the homeowner's 110
power supply. Looks like I may have a good referral source, and as this is
normal wear and tear and kids swinging on the gates kinds of fixups, it
comes under hourly. We're going to talk again in a couple of days.

Steve

Just use it to run your grinders, which are very happy running on DC.

Grant

RoyJ wrote:

According to page 4 of ONE of the SA-200manuals (not sure which one you
have)
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM276.pdf
the 115 volt output is DC, so a wire feed with definitely NOT work. As in
fry the wire feed welder instantly kind of not work.

Worse than that, it indicates that there is no real overload protection
other than the circuit board. Not a good thing.

SteveB wrote:

"Grant Erwin" <grant at (no spam) NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:dFJUj.296$Nf.194 at (no spam) trndny03...

Just use it to run your grinders, which are very happy running on DC.

Grant

RoyJ wrote:


According to page 4 of ONE of the SA-200manuals (not sure which one you
have)
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM276.pdf
the 115 volt output is DC, so a wire feed with definitely NOT work. As
in fry the wire feed welder instantly kind of not work.

Worse than that, it indicates that there is no real overload protection
other than the circuit board. Not a good thing.



Talked to the local artisan today. A lot of his work is approaching 5
years of age, and occasionally needs a tweak, a lock adjust, a hinge
adjustment. He doesn't want to take two guys off making gates and CUSTOM
work to go do this.

I, on the other hand, want to go do this light work. Only thing I have
to do is get a Lincoln 140 MIG so I can merely plug into the homeowner's
110 power supply. Looks like I may have a good referral source, and as
this is normal wear and tear and kids swinging on the gates kinds of
fixups, it comes under hourly. We're going to talk again in a couple of
days.

Steve

And your question is .. ??

I know I already used one coupon this month, so sue me.

I bought an old SA 200 welder with a 1.75 kw rated plug for tools. This
is stated in the Lincoln download manual. The current available is 15
amps, per manual.

I am interested if I can run a 110v. Lincoln 140 MIG on that circuit. The
required amperage at FULL LOAD is 20 amps. I do not see any breakers on
the SA 200, so don't know what type of protection they have on there if a
larger than acceptable load is put on that circuit. Also, there are two
plugs on the machine. Any way to wire the two together to up the
amperage? (maybe that's the third dumb question ...........)

Can I just use a tester and check the voltage and amperage on those plugs
with the machine running? For the electricital whizzes out there, what
does 1.75 kw convert to in layman's terms?

Could I use this intermittently on a very short duty cycle for wrought
iron repairs, or even look for a smaller machine that has less current
draw? Is there such a thing? This would be for small .065" tubing
repairs.

If absolutely necessary, I can use the DC part of the welder and 3/32"
6011 DCSP.

"...the man who really counts in the world is the doer, not the mere
critic-the man who actually does the work, even if roughly and
imperfectly, not the man who only talks or writes about how it ought to be
done." Theodore Roosevelt 1891

"Private" <please at (no spam) dont.bother> wrote

If absolutely necessary, I can use the DC part of the welder and 3/32"
6011 DCSP.

You have commented previously on your use of 6011 with DCSP. I have (as
tactfully as possible) suggested that NONE of my electrode manufacturer's
electrode manuals suggest or approve of running 6011 on DCSP, YMMV. You
may
have a source for electrodes from a manufacturer who does approve of
their
use with DCSP or as I like to say, YMMV. We all do what ever works, and
this does occasionally cause us to modify approved procedures, but ONLY
when working on non-critical or work without a specified or required
procedure. At all times the manufacturer's recommendations are your best
guide as they have tested their products extensively and know what
procedures yield satisfactory results, and they have every motivation to
recommend their products for as wide a range of usage as possible.

I bought a Miller Thunderbolt once. I had a variety of rods. I was
looking for something that I could use in the field to repair weld
ornamental metal, mostly fences and gates. I put some tubing together,
and tried the small 6011. When I tried it with the stinger negative, it
would allow me to put down very small puddles and whip the rod, or if I
turned the current low enough, to make a continuous weld without burning
through. Very slight rod motions, very short arc, and very small puddles,
and as soon as one formed, whip out of it.

I do know that the rod is not RECOMMENDED for that polarity, but for THAT
specific application, it works great. I used it for years in the field,
and amazed a lot of people who said small ornamental tubing had to be
wirefed, as it could not be rod welded. Over the years, I have also been
amazed at the number of people who swear that the rod just plain will not
burn in that configuration. I do not know about anything larger than the
3/32" rod, and possibly the bigger ones won't do it. Maybe there's just
the right circumstances for that small one to work.

Sometimes if you don't know what you're doing, it's a little easier, as
not so much space is taken up in the brain with facts and absolutes. Or,
at least, I have found this to be true for me. I do know that a lot of
processes and inventions (the vulcanization of rubber for one) were the
results of pure accidents, carelessness, or trying something that everyone
said would NOT work.

If you ever get a chance, try it. You may be surprised. Make it just hot
enough to keep an arc.

Steve

We all do what ever works, and
this does occasionally cause us to modify approved procedures, but ONLY
when working on non-critical or work without a specified or required
procedure.

If absolutely necessary, I can use the DC part of the welder and 3/32"
6011 DCSP.

You have commented previously on your use of 6011 with DCSP. I have (as
tactfully as possible) suggested that NONE of my electrode manufacturer's
electrode manuals suggest or approve of running 6011 on DCSP, YMMV. You
may
have a source for electrodes from a manufacturer who does approve of their
use with DCSP or as I like to say, YMMV. We all do what ever works, and
this does occasionally cause us to modify approved procedures, but ONLY
when working on non-critical or work without a specified or required
procedure. At all times the manufacturer's recommendations are your best
guide as they have tested their products extensively and know what
procedures yield satisfactory results, and they have every motivation to
recommend their products for as wide a range of usage as possible.

If you ever get a chance, try it. You may be surprised. Make it just hot
enough to keep an arc.

Steve

I do know that the rod is not RECOMMENDED for that polarity, but for THAT
specific application, it works great.

amazed a lot of people who said small ornamental tubing had to be wirefed,
as it could not be rod welded.