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Gunner Asch
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:44 pm
Guest
I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.

1. It will not dial down to less than about 111 amps,using either the
pedal, or the main amp control pot. The machine has digital display
for volts and amps, and with the main control all the way down, I get
an E11, and turn it a smidge, shows 111, then as the knob is turned,
goes all the way to 375 amps as one would expect
Hooking a stinger up, yes...it really is about 111 amps at low, and
all the way up blew an 80 amp breaker on my sub, so yes, that portion
is accurate.

There is no Hi/Low range switch on the machine.

No output on AC. Tiny spark, but no real welding current, using local,
or remote with a known good pedal. Pedal does kick the contactor, and
does vari welding current, but wont bring it down below that 111
volts.

No HF in any configuration. This COULD be dirty points, as its not
been used for at least 8 yrs, but thats not a big issue at the moment.

First thing Ill do is check the main amps control pot, to make sure
its in spec and both sides have the prope variable resistance.

I do have the schematics and drawings, but was looking for some input
on how things actually work..IE..when the main amp knob is turned, how
is it actually controlling the output of the transformer?

With a minimum current of 111 amps, something is not going low enough,
or high enough to vari current to lower values.

Why would it not have output on AC but does on DC? Thats a bit
odd....
Ill clean the AC/DC+/DC- selector switch of course.
It IS a square wave machine, so whatever converts the AC sine to
square wave sine may be an issue. I think thats some sort of chopper
circuit?

Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

The FF designation at the end of the code number means "full
function"..whatever the hell that means. I assume its the timer
circuits for post and pre flow, crater, spot etc ?


Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
RAM³
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 6:00 pm
Guest
Gunner Asch <gunner@NOSPAMlightspeed.net> wrote in
news:hcr9145rtpkdl47gf1585lrd4pigfejr8t@4ax.com:

Quote:
I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.

1. It will not dial down to less than about 111 amps,using either the
pedal, or the main amp control pot. The machine has digital display
for volts and amps, and with the main control all the way down, I get
an E11, and turn it a smidge, shows 111, then as the knob is turned,
goes all the way to 375 amps as one would expect
Hooking a stinger up, yes...it really is about 111 amps at low, and
all the way up blew an 80 amp breaker on my sub, so yes, that portion
is accurate.

There is no Hi/Low range switch on the machine.

No output on AC. Tiny spark, but no real welding current, using local,
or remote with a known good pedal. Pedal does kick the contactor, and
does vari welding current, but wont bring it down below that 111
volts.

No HF in any configuration. This COULD be dirty points, as its not
been used for at least 8 yrs, but thats not a big issue at the moment.

First thing Ill do is check the main amps control pot, to make sure
its in spec and both sides have the prope variable resistance.

I do have the schematics and drawings, but was looking for some input
on how things actually work..IE..when the main amp knob is turned, how
is it actually controlling the output of the transformer?

With a minimum current of 111 amps, something is not going low enough,
or high enough to vari current to lower values.

Why would it not have output on AC but does on DC? Thats a bit
odd....
Ill clean the AC/DC+/DC- selector switch of course.
It IS a square wave machine, so whatever converts the AC sine to
square wave sine may be an issue. I think thats some sort of chopper
circuit?

Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

The FF designation at the end of the code number means "full
function"..whatever the hell that means. I assume its the timer
circuits for post and pre flow, crater, spot etc ?


Gunner

Dunno if it'll help but here's a URL for the Owner's Manual:

<http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/navigator/OBSO_IMS/im361a.pdf>
RAM³
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 6:32 pm
Guest
BTW, I just sent an e-mail to your de-munged addy.

If it didn't get there, send one to this one [with the ".nospam" removed]
and I'll re-send it.
Jon Elson
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 6:35 pm
Guest
Gunner Asch wrote:
Quote:
I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.

1. It will not dial down to less than about 111 amps,using either the
pedal, or the main amp control pot. The machine has digital display
for volts and amps, and with the main control all the way down, I get
an E11, and turn it a smidge, shows 111, then as the knob is turned,
goes all the way to 375 amps as one would expect
Hooking a stinger up, yes...it really is about 111 amps at low, and
all the way up blew an 80 amp breaker on my sub, so yes, that portion
is accurate.

I have one of these, and the Lincoln machine schematic, which is

all they will give out to the general public. The current
controls are potentiometers. I wonder if a wire has got a bad
connection, leaving one end of the pot disconnected. Maybe you
could read the voltage across the current set pot and I can
compare it to my machine.
Quote:
There is no Hi/Low range switch on the machine.

No output on AC. Tiny spark, but no real welding current, using local,
or remote with a known good pedal. Pedal does kick the contactor, and
does vari welding current, but wont bring it down below that 111
volts.

No HF in any configuration. This COULD be dirty points, as its not
been used for at least 8 yrs, but thats not a big issue at the moment.

Hmm,
First thing Ill do is check the main amps control pot, to make sure
its in spec and both sides have the prope variable resistance.

I do have the schematics and drawings, but was looking for some input
on how things actually work..IE..when the main amp knob is turned, how
is it actually controlling the output of the transformer?

First, when the pedal is up, the display is just reading the

setting off the knob. So, the knob provides an adjustable
voltage, and the Amps dial reads that voltage with pedal up, and
the current coltroller tries to match that voltage with output
current when the pedal is down.

The actual welding output is controlled by the phase angle of
firing of an SCR bridge. But, if the dial reading is wrong with
pedal up, then this problem sounds much less serious.
Quote:
With a minimum current of 111 amps, something is not going low enough,
or high enough to vari current to lower values.

Why would it not have output on AC but does on DC? Thats a bit
odd....
That is a puzzle, and may indicate more trouble.
Ill clean the AC/DC+/DC- selector switch of course.
It IS a square wave machine, so whatever converts the AC sine to
square wave sine may be an issue. I think thats some sort of chopper
circuit?

No, it just fiddles with the SCR timing to control the current.


Quote:
Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

The FF designation at the end of the code number means "full
function"..whatever the hell that means. I assume its the timer
circuits for post and pre flow, crater, spot etc ?
Yes. There are machines without many of those functions and no

gauges.

Anyway, I had to replace a Tantalum capacitor in the post-flow
timer. Otherwise, I haven't had any problem with the machine.

Jon
Ignoramus30765
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 7:45 pm
Guest
I would obviously check the pot with a ohmmeter, but I think that this
welder has big problems (as in bad boards). If both a pedal and panel
pot give the same problem, the issue is in what reads the inputs, most
likely. Too many things are wrong at the same time. It should be an
interesting project, don't expect a quick answer and go slowly and
methodically.

i
Martin H. Eastburn
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:23 pm
Guest
Looks like you are getting some help - I saw on the pdf -
Don't switch the switches with the power on.

Wanta make a bet ? What is the temptation - not right switch to it...zap.

Since board after board wasn't a fix - it might be a switch or pot.
Might be cables to /from them.
Or any component, Rectifier or relay mounted off the board...

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Gunner Asch wrote:
Quote:
I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.

1. It will not dial down to less than about 111 amps,using either the
pedal, or the main amp control pot. The machine has digital display
for volts and amps, and with the main control all the way down, I get
an E11, and turn it a smidge, shows 111, then as the knob is turned,
goes all the way to 375 amps as one would expect
Hooking a stinger up, yes...it really is about 111 amps at low, and
all the way up blew an 80 amp breaker on my sub, so yes, that portion
is accurate.

There is no Hi/Low range switch on the machine.

No output on AC. Tiny spark, but no real welding current, using local,
or remote with a known good pedal. Pedal does kick the contactor, and
does vari welding current, but wont bring it down below that 111
volts.

No HF in any configuration. This COULD be dirty points, as its not
been used for at least 8 yrs, but thats not a big issue at the moment.

First thing Ill do is check the main amps control pot, to make sure
its in spec and both sides have the prope variable resistance.

I do have the schematics and drawings, but was looking for some input
on how things actually work..IE..when the main amp knob is turned, how
is it actually controlling the output of the transformer?

With a minimum current of 111 amps, something is not going low enough,
or high enough to vari current to lower values.

Why would it not have output on AC but does on DC? Thats a bit
odd....
Ill clean the AC/DC+/DC- selector switch of course.
It IS a square wave machine, so whatever converts the AC sine to
square wave sine may be an issue. I think thats some sort of chopper
circuit?

Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

The FF designation at the end of the code number means "full
function"..whatever the hell that means. I assume its the timer
circuits for post and pre flow, crater, spot etc ?


Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
BobH
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:08 pm
Guest
Gunner Asch wrote:
Quote:
I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.

1. It will not dial down to less than about 111 amps,using either the
pedal, or the main amp control pot. The machine has digital display
for volts and amps, and with the main control all the way down, I get
an E11, and turn it a smidge, shows 111, then as the knob is turned,
goes all the way to 375 amps as one would expect
Hooking a stinger up, yes...it really is about 111 amps at low, and
all the way up blew an 80 amp breaker on my sub, so yes, that portion
is accurate.

There is no Hi/Low range switch on the machine.

No output on AC. Tiny spark, but no real welding current, using local,
or remote with a known good pedal. Pedal does kick the contactor, and
does vari welding current, but wont bring it down below that 111
volts.

No HF in any configuration. This COULD be dirty points, as its not
been used for at least 8 yrs, but thats not a big issue at the moment.

First thing Ill do is check the main amps control pot, to make sure
its in spec and both sides have the prope variable resistance.

I do have the schematics and drawings, but was looking for some input
on how things actually work..IE..when the main amp knob is turned, how
is it actually controlling the output of the transformer?

With a minimum current of 111 amps, something is not going low enough,
or high enough to vari current to lower values.

Why would it not have output on AC but does on DC? Thats a bit
odd....
Ill clean the AC/DC+/DC- selector switch of course.
It IS a square wave machine, so whatever converts the AC sine to
square wave sine may be an issue. I think thats some sort of chopper
circuit?

Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

The FF designation at the end of the code number means "full
function"..whatever the hell that means. I assume its the timer
circuits for post and pre flow, crater, spot etc ?


Gunner

I think it would be worth looking for a shorted SCR. They are not on a
board, so it doesn't sound like they got swapped by the previous owner.
It ought to show up poking around with an Ohmeter and the power off. I
looked at the PDF of the owners manual and did not see a schematic of
the machine. Can you post a pointer to the schematic?

Good Luck,
BobH
Bruce L. Bergman
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:17 am
Guest
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 14:44:28 -0700, Gunner Asch
<gunner@NOSPAMlightspeed.net> wrote:

Quote:
I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.
Snip
Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

Yeah, and you already know what the first step is, call that guy you
mentioned a while back at Arco Welder Repair. Two sentences, and
he'll say "STOP - Check this..." But they've let their domain name
lapse, there's a "Domain Available" NetSol squatter page up now.

I'd have to agree with the majority - the former owner has already
tried swapping boards, so odds are it's not a board. Bad power SCR or
Triac in the output sections, bad potentiometer or cabling in the
controls, bad safety switch, open coupling capacitor, bad
opto-isolator, etc.

Do a methodical search and you'll find it.

That, and/or make like Jimmy Durante and follow your schnoz - if a
component has met an electrically violent end, the nose knows. Stuff
your proboscis in there and take a deep sniff, and track down the
crispy critter.

(Note: Offer not valid if there are selenium rectifiers or other
components that make particularly nasty IDLH fumes when the Magic
Smoke escapes. But those are getting few and far between.)

--<< Bruce >>--
Gunner Asch
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:31 am
Guest
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:35:40 -0500, Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>
wrote:

Quote:
So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.

1. It will not dial down to less than about 111 amps,using either the
pedal, or the main amp control pot. The machine has digital display
for volts and amps, and with the main control all the way down, I get
an E11, and turn it a smidge, shows 111, then as the knob is turned,
goes all the way to 375 amps as one would expect
Hooking a stinger up, yes...it really is about 111 amps at low, and
all the way up blew an 80 amp breaker on my sub, so yes, that portion
is accurate.

I have one of these, and the Lincoln machine schematic, which is
all they will give out to the general public. The current
controls are potentiometers. I wonder if a wire has got a bad
connection, leaving one end of the pot disconnected. Maybe you
could read the voltage across the current set pot and I can
compare it to my machine.
]


Thats what Im going to check tommorow. Oddly enough..it works fine in
AC stick mode.

The moment I put it to Tig, or DC stick, its full bore balls to the
wall. What the manual calls Stick Blast.

After posting the previous and reading some posts, I reread the manual
went back out and set everything to stick default, removed the pedal
and got it to work on AC stick normally.

But any DC mode and its 300 amps even though the amp meter reads 111

Its very possible it is the current pot.

The schematics that came with it give actual resistance values of
components so Ill start with the Current pot and wiring

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Gunner Asch
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:35 am
Guest
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 00:17:11 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
<blnospambergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote:

Quote:
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 14:44:28 -0700, Gunner Asch
gunner@NOSPAMlightspeed.net> wrote:

I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.
Snip
Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

Yeah, and you already know what the first step is, call that guy you
mentioned a while back at Arco Welder Repair. Two sentences, and
he'll say "STOP - Check this..." But they've let their domain name
lapse, there's a "Domain Available" NetSol squatter page up now.

Dennis sold Arco to one of his employees I think..he sold to someone
and retired in August. So that option is out, the new guy is not the
type to give out free info.
Quote:

I'd have to agree with the majority - the former owner has already
tried swapping boards, so odds are it's not a board. Bad power SCR or
Triac in the output sections, bad potentiometer or cabling in the
controls, bad safety switch, open coupling capacitor, bad
opto-isolator, etc.

What would the SRCs look like in that size? It works ok on AC, its
when I switch to DC that its full bore.
Quote:

Do a methodical search and you'll find it.

I will indeed. It was sweet welding with AC and 6011. Nearly as good
as the Dialarc 250
Quote:

That, and/or make like Jimmy Durante and follow your schnoz - if a
component has met an electrically violent end, the nose knows. Stuff
your proboscis in there and take a deep sniff, and track down the
crispy critter.

(Note: Offer not valid if there are selenium rectifiers or other
components that make particularly nasty IDLH fumes when the Magic
Smoke escapes. But those are getting few and far between.)

Its later than 1989, so there shouldnt be any seleniums.
Quote:

--<< Bruce >>--

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Gunner Asch
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:58 am
Guest
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 03:08:41 GMT, BobH
<WanderingMetalHead.DUMP.SPAM@yahoo.com> wrote:

Quote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.

1. It will not dial down to less than about 111 amps,using either the
pedal, or the main amp control pot. The machine has digital display
for volts and amps, and with the main control all the way down, I get
an E11, and turn it a smidge, shows 111, then as the knob is turned,
goes all the way to 375 amps as one would expect
Hooking a stinger up, yes...it really is about 111 amps at low, and
all the way up blew an 80 amp breaker on my sub, so yes, that portion
is accurate.

There is no Hi/Low range switch on the machine.

No output on AC. Tiny spark, but no real welding current, using local,
or remote with a known good pedal. Pedal does kick the contactor, and
does vari welding current, but wont bring it down below that 111
volts.

No HF in any configuration. This COULD be dirty points, as its not
been used for at least 8 yrs, but thats not a big issue at the moment.

First thing Ill do is check the main amps control pot, to make sure
its in spec and both sides have the prope variable resistance.

I do have the schematics and drawings, but was looking for some input
on how things actually work..IE..when the main amp knob is turned, how
is it actually controlling the output of the transformer?

With a minimum current of 111 amps, something is not going low enough,
or high enough to vari current to lower values.

Why would it not have output on AC but does on DC? Thats a bit
odd....
Ill clean the AC/DC+/DC- selector switch of course.
It IS a square wave machine, so whatever converts the AC sine to
square wave sine may be an issue. I think thats some sort of chopper
circuit?

Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

The FF designation at the end of the code number means "full
function"..whatever the hell that means. I assume its the timer
circuits for post and pre flow, crater, spot etc ?


Gunner

I think it would be worth looking for a shorted SCR. They are not on a
board, so it doesn't sound like they got swapped by the previous owner.
It ought to show up poking around with an Ohmeter and the power off. I
looked at the PDF of the owners manual and did not see a schematic of
the machine. Can you post a pointer to the schematic?

Good Luck,
BobH


The welder came wit a file folder full of schamtics and receipts for
boards. The schmatics hve values for the various components, so Ill
have some data.

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Joseph Gwinn
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:22 am
Guest
In article <ts2b14tjdvuflhkod1vpsgc0166ceevmtv@4ax.com>,
Gunner Asch <gunner@NOSPAMlightspeed.net> wrote:

Quote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 00:17:11 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
blnospambergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote:

On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 14:44:28 -0700, Gunner Asch
gunner@NOSPAMlightspeed.net> wrote:

I picked up a Lincoln tig 300 square wave machine a couple weeks ago.

Code 9298-ff

The guy claimed that the power couldnt be dialed down to anything less
than about 150 amps. Ive receipts for a number of boards he purchased
in '00 etc etc, with no fix.

So I powered it up today to diagnose what is really going on.
Snip
Anyone have any ideas or where to start looking? This is a weird one.

Yeah, and you already know what the first step is, call that guy you
mentioned a while back at Arco Welder Repair. Two sentences, and
he'll say "STOP - Check this..." But they've let their domain name
lapse, there's a "Domain Available" NetSol squatter page up now.

Dennis sold Arco to one of his employees I think..he sold to someone
and retired in August. So that option is out, the new guy is not the
type to give out free info.

I'd have to agree with the majority - the former owner has already
tried swapping boards, so odds are it's not a board. Bad power SCR or
Triac in the output sections, bad potentiometer or cabling in the
controls, bad safety switch, open coupling capacitor, bad
opto-isolator, etc.

What would the SRCs look like in that size? It works ok on AC, its
when I switch to DC that its full bore.

A big metal can or more likely a big plastic and metal block, with two
very heavy leads plus one or two much thinner leads (or screws), in
either case bolted to a big heatsink.

The SCRs are in the Rectifier assembly on page 38 of
<http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/navigator/OBSO_IMS/im36
1a.pdf> (pdf provided by another poster).

A shorted SCR will have low resistance regardless of polarity. Likewise
a shorted rectifier.

Joe Gwinn
Jon Elson
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:22 pm
Guest
Gunner Asch wrote:
Quote:
]

Thats what Im going to check tommorow. Oddly enough..it works fine in
AC stick mode.

The moment I put it to Tig, or DC stick, its full bore balls to the
wall. What the manual calls Stick Blast.

After posting the previous and reading some posts, I reread the manual
went back out and set everything to stick default, removed the pedal
and got it to work on AC stick normally.

But any DC mode and its 300 amps even though the amp meter reads 111

Oh, this is different than what you originally described. Well,

if the current control is OK on stick mode, then most of the
really expensive stuff must be OK.

The first thing I'd do is flip every panel toggle switch 20
times to clean up the contacts. See if that helps at all.
I'm pretty sure there are microswitches or something similar
that tells the electronics where the AC/DC polarity handle is
set, they may need exercising, too.

This sounds like two different symptoms, at least. The current
meter doesn't read right at the low end, and the current control
isn't working right in TIG mode. Of course, there really is
little difference between the TIG and stick modes except
open-circuit voltage. There are a bunch of Molex connectors on
the boards. I have had a lot of trouble with this connector
type in rough environments. My machine is in the basement, but
if yours is in the garage or whatever, I'd definitely pull and
reseat every one of those connectors on the PC boards behind the
control panel. It just hinges down for easy access. That may
well fix the problem.

Jon
Jon Elson
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:29 pm
Guest
Gunner Asch wrote:
Quote:

What would the SRCs look like in that size? It works ok on AC, its
when I switch to DC that its full bore.

The SCR's are huge, the size of a white hockey puck, clamped

between big heat sinks. They are on the output side of the main
transformer, deep in the interior of the machine. There are two
SCRs and two diodes in a bridge. They are used in all modes of
the machine, I believe, to control current in both directions.
So, the bridge is just a controllable switch in series between
the transformer and electrode. Therefore, since AC current IS
controllable, I really don't think the SCRs could be bad. In
fact, most of the control systems have to be working for it to
get this far. Since boards were replaced, a bad switch or
connection seems more likely.

Jon
Michael A. Terrell
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:37 pm
Guest
Jon Elson wrote:
Quote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
]

Thats what Im going to check tommorow. Oddly enough..it works fine in
AC stick mode.

The moment I put it to Tig, or DC stick, its full bore balls to the
wall. What the manual calls Stick Blast.

After posting the previous and reading some posts, I reread the manual
went back out and set everything to stick default, removed the pedal
and got it to work on AC stick normally.

But any DC mode and its 300 amps even though the amp meter reads 111

Oh, this is different than what you originally described. Well,
if the current control is OK on stick mode, then most of the
really expensive stuff must be OK.

The first thing I'd do is flip every panel toggle switch 20
times to clean up the contacts. See if that helps at all.
I'm pretty sure there are microswitches or something similar
that tells the electronics where the AC/DC polarity handle is
set, they may need exercising, too.

This sounds like two different symptoms, at least. The current
meter doesn't read right at the low end, and the current control
isn't working right in TIG mode. Of course, there really is
little difference between the TIG and stick modes except
open-circuit voltage. There are a bunch of Molex connectors on
the boards. I have had a lot of trouble with this connector
type in rough environments. My machine is in the basement, but
if yours is in the garage or whatever, I'd definitely pull and
reseat every one of those connectors on the PC boards behind the
control panel. It just hinges down for easy access. That may
well fix the problem.


Use contact cleaner, instead of just reseating them.

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