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Science Forum Index » Engineering - Joining (Welding) Forum » Re-drying E7018
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Message |
| Alan Andrews |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:39 pm |
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Guest
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Some time ago I purchased a 50# box of E7018 Hobart electrodes. I'm not a
professional welder, nor do I have occasion to do that much welding, which
means that I had an open box of low hydrogen exposed to atmospheric humidity
for quite some time, like a year.
I'm in the midst of building a custom steel fence on the front of my
residence property and some of the welding will be done with low hydrogen.
At the local welding supply I mentioned in passing the story about the
opened rods and asked if low hydrogen rods actually "got old," like I'd
heard for ever. They indicated that they did indeed degrade, such so that
they couldn't even be reconditioned in an oven.
When I got home I called Hobart and spoke with a technician who said that
once low hydrogen was exposed to the atmosphere, it immediately started
*irreversibly* degrading, and that, yes, re-drying them in an oven didn't
help. I said that that would seem to indicate that a chemical reaction had
taken place (with what I thought was rather inert inorganic material
(rutile, for instance)) and he, sorta handwavingly (if that's a word) said,
yeah.
To confuse and confound the question, I found a document on the Web from
Lincoln Electric that indicated that Lincoln E7018 could indeed be reclaimed
by drying in an oven (http://www.jflf.org/pdfs/papers/fabguide.pdf, p. 7).
So...what IS the story on storing an open quanity of 7018 for protracted
periods, in out of the weather (my garage, for instance), but nonetheless
exposed to Southern-style humidity.
Thanks,
Alan |
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| RoyJ |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:03 pm |
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Guest
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The Lincoln "Stick Electrode Product Catalog"
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c210.pdf
page 46
has this to say
<start quote>
Re-drying Low Hydrogen Electrodes
Re-drying, when done correctly, restores the electrodes’ ability to
deposit quality welds. Proper re-drying temperature depends upon the
electrode type and its condition.
One hour at the listed final temperature is satisfactory. DO NOT
dry electrodes at higher temperatures. Several hours at lower
temperatures is not equivalent to using the specified
requirements.
Electrodes of the E8018 and higher strength classifications
should be given no more than three 1-hour re-dries in the 700° -
800°F (370° - 430°C) range. This minimizes the possibility of
oxidation of alloys in the coating resulting in lower than normal
tensile or impact properties.
Any low hydrogen electrode should be discarded if excessive redrying
causes the coating to become fragile and flake or break
off while welding, or if there is a noticeable difference in handling
or arc characteristics, such as insufficient arc force.
Electrodes to be re-dried should be removed from the can and
spread out in the oven because each electrode must reach the
drying temperature.
Electrodes which have come in direct contact with water or which have
been exposed to high humidity 180° - 220°F for one hour, then 650° -
750°F for one hour.
<End quote>
That temp schedule is not achievable in a standard rod oven, hence the
comments you get from the various sources.
Should you use it? If this was a critical application, toss the rod. If
it is not a critical application, you can use your judgment about drying
the rod per the schedule, then deal with "if there is a noticeable
difference in handling or arc characteristics, such as insufficient arc
force". In most cases, the problems with lousy rod far outweigh the cost
of the rod, not to mention the cost of materials and the time to weld.
Alan Andrews wrote:
Quote: Some time ago I purchased a 50# box of E7018 Hobart electrodes. I'm not a
professional welder, nor do I have occasion to do that much welding, which
means that I had an open box of low hydrogen exposed to atmospheric humidity
for quite some time, like a year.
I'm in the midst of building a custom steel fence on the front of my
residence property and some of the welding will be done with low hydrogen.
At the local welding supply I mentioned in passing the story about the
opened rods and asked if low hydrogen rods actually "got old," like I'd
heard for ever. They indicated that they did indeed degrade, such so that
they couldn't even be reconditioned in an oven.
When I got home I called Hobart and spoke with a technician who said that
once low hydrogen was exposed to the atmosphere, it immediately started
*irreversibly* degrading, and that, yes, re-drying them in an oven didn't
help. I said that that would seem to indicate that a chemical reaction had
taken place (with what I thought was rather inert inorganic material
(rutile, for instance)) and he, sorta handwavingly (if that's a word) said,
yeah.
To confuse and confound the question, I found a document on the Web from
Lincoln Electric that indicated that Lincoln E7018 could indeed be reclaimed
by drying in an oven (http://www.jflf.org/pdfs/papers/fabguide.pdf, p. 7).
So...what IS the story on storing an open quanity of 7018 for protracted
periods, in out of the weather (my garage, for instance), but nonetheless
exposed to Southern-style humidity.
Thanks,
Alan
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| Grant Erwin |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:12 pm |
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Guest
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Alan Andrews wrote:
Quote: Some time ago I purchased a 50# box of E7018 Hobart electrodes. I'm not a
professional welder, nor do I have occasion to do that much welding, which
means that I had an open box of low hydrogen exposed to atmospheric humidity
for quite some time, like a year.
I'm in the midst of building a custom steel fence on the front of my
residence property and some of the welding will be done with low hydrogen.
At the local welding supply I mentioned in passing the story about the
opened rods and asked if low hydrogen rods actually "got old," like I'd
heard for ever. They indicated that they did indeed degrade, such so that
they couldn't even be reconditioned in an oven.
When I got home I called Hobart and spoke with a technician who said that
once low hydrogen was exposed to the atmosphere, it immediately started
*irreversibly* degrading, and that, yes, re-drying them in an oven didn't
help. I said that that would seem to indicate that a chemical reaction had
taken place (with what I thought was rather inert inorganic material
(rutile, for instance)) and he, sorta handwavingly (if that's a word) said,
yeah.
To confuse and confound the question, I found a document on the Web from
Lincoln Electric that indicated that Lincoln E7018 could indeed be reclaimed
by drying in an oven (http://www.jflf.org/pdfs/papers/fabguide.pdf, p. 7).
So...what IS the story on storing an open quanity of 7018 for protracted
periods, in out of the weather (my garage, for instance), but nonetheless
exposed to Southern-style humidity.
Alan, stop a bit and think about what you are asking. You are building a
fence! The welds you need on your fence need be little more than decent tacks.
Unless you are incorporating a heavy gate, there is little stress on a fence
at any time. You have no need of the ultimate failing strength of 70000 pounds
that you get from perfectly maintained 7018 rods.
I once acquired quite a bit (~100 pounds) of old 7018 rod. It was open, dumped
into a large cardboard box, and would have never been suitable for a certified
weld. Yet I welded with it, making dozens of useful items. Were they as strong
as they would have been if I'd bought new rod each time and kept it in an oven?
No. Were they plenty strong enough? Absolutely.
You have already gotten conflicting opinions from Hobart and Lincoln, why would
anything posted on a newsgroup carry any more weight than those?
I would stop worrying and weld up your fence with your rod.
there .. that was worth at LEAST what you paid for it!
Grant Erwin |
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| emmo |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 4:31 pm |
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Guest
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Put them on a gas barbecue grill if you have one -- that will get a lot
hotter than your kitchen oven, and will eliminate the wife factor... |
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| Private |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 4:53 pm |
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Guest
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"Grant Erwin" <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:uQyFj.221$Pc2.102@trndny06...
Quote: Alan Andrews wrote:
Some time ago I purchased a 50# box of E7018 Hobart electrodes. I'm not
a professional welder, nor do I have occasion to do that much welding,
which means that I had an open box of low hydrogen exposed to atmospheric
humidity for quite some time, like a year.
I'm in the midst of building a custom steel fence on the front of my
residence property and some of the welding will be done with low
hydrogen. At the local welding supply I mentioned in passing the story
about the opened rods and asked if low hydrogen rods actually "got old,"
like I'd heard for ever. They indicated that they did indeed degrade,
such so that they couldn't even be reconditioned in an oven.
When I got home I called Hobart and spoke with a technician who said that
once low hydrogen was exposed to the atmosphere, it immediately started
*irreversibly* degrading, and that, yes, re-drying them in an oven didn't
help. I said that that would seem to indicate that a chemical reaction
had taken place (with what I thought was rather inert inorganic material
(rutile, for instance)) and he, sorta handwavingly (if that's a word)
said, yeah.
To confuse and confound the question, I found a document on the Web from
Lincoln Electric that indicated that Lincoln E7018 could indeed be
reclaimed by drying in an oven
(http://www.jflf.org/pdfs/papers/fabguide.pdf, p. 7). So...what IS the
story on storing an open quanity of 7018 for protracted periods, in out
of the weather (my garage, for instance), but nonetheless exposed to
Southern-style humidity.
Alan, stop a bit and think about what you are asking. You are building a
fence! The welds you need on your fence need be little more than decent
tacks.
Unless you are incorporating a heavy gate, there is little stress on a
fence
at any time. You have no need of the ultimate failing strength of 70000
pounds
that you get from perfectly maintained 7018 rods.
I once acquired quite a bit (~100 pounds) of old 7018 rod. It was open,
dumped
into a large cardboard box, and would have never been suitable for a
certified
weld. Yet I welded with it, making dozens of useful items. Were they as
strong
as they would have been if I'd bought new rod each time and kept it in an
oven?
No. Were they plenty strong enough? Absolutely.
You have already gotten conflicting opinions from Hobart and Lincoln, why
would
anything posted on a newsgroup carry any more weight than those?
I would stop worrying and weld up your fence with your rod.
there .. that was worth at LEAST what you paid for it!
Grant Erwin
I agree.
Unless we are talking about rods that have been soaked or have been exposed
to wet atmosphere for a very long time and/or bear evidence of deterioration
due to heavy rust or white powder deposits on the coating. Most/many low
hydrogen rods have lime and other hygroscopic materials in the coating and
will attract moisture and if severe it can make them unpleasant to weld and
with poor quality results.
Low hydrogen rods (and SA Lincoln welders) were developed to limit hydrogen
embitterment (WW11 Liberty ships) which is mostly a problem of high duty
cycle loading and is similar to fatigue. It often manifests itself by
underbead cracking and is sometimes the problem when people point to a crack
beside a weld and comment that the weld was stronger than the parent metal.
AFAIK, most plain steel is only good for ~45k tensile and normal rods like
xx10, xx11, xx13, xx14 are not low hydrogen but still make lots of
satisfactory and serviceable welds.
Unless this is a code fence built with high tensile steel you are unlikely
to have any problems even if you do not dry your rods at all, but a simple
drying for ~1hr in a kitchen range @ 350-450 (spread then out on the wire
rack) is unlikely to do any harm and will probably improve their
performance. Only dry them as you need them as repeated drying is not
desirable. The place where it is most important to use new rods from a
sealed container is when welding pressure pipe or high strength steels
subject to high loads and cycles and where failure will have consequences.
I would be very careful of the condition of rods used for welding anything
critical and particularly trailer hitches or suspensions for on road use.
If it is not possible to keep you rods in a warm dryer, it is worthwhile to
keep them in containers that limit the contact with air, and to open new
boxes when doing critical work.
Just my .02, YMMV |
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| Private |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 5:49 pm |
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Guest
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"emmo" <edwinland@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:h%zFj.19898$xq2.8228@newssvr21.news.prodigy.net...
Quote: Put them on a gas barbecue grill if you have one -- that will get a lot
hotter than your kitchen oven, and will eliminate the wife factor...
IIRC the major gas given off by burning propane is water vapor......... |
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| Serial # 19781010 |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 5:52 pm |
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Guest
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On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 13:39:28 -0500, "Alan Andrews"
<no-spam@foobox.com> wrote:
Quote: Some time ago I purchased a 50# box of E7018 Hobart electrodes. I'm not a
professional welder, nor do I have occasion to do that much welding, which
means that I had an open box of low hydrogen exposed to atmospheric humidity
for quite some time, like a year.
I'm in the midst of building a custom steel fence on the front of my
residence property and some of the welding will be done with low hydrogen.
At the local welding supply I mentioned in passing the story about the
opened rods and asked if low hydrogen rods actually "got old," like I'd
heard for ever. They indicated that they did indeed degrade, such so that
they couldn't even be reconditioned in an oven.
When I got home I called Hobart and spoke with a technician who said that
once low hydrogen was exposed to the atmosphere, it immediately started
*irreversibly* degrading, and that, yes, re-drying them in an oven didn't
help. I said that that would seem to indicate that a chemical reaction had
taken place (with what I thought was rather inert inorganic material
(rutile, for instance)) and he, sorta handwavingly (if that's a word) said,
yeah.
To confuse and confound the question, I found a document on the Web from
Lincoln Electric that indicated that Lincoln E7018 could indeed be reclaimed
by drying in an oven (http://www.jflf.org/pdfs/papers/fabguide.pdf, p. 7).
So...what IS the story on storing an open quanity of 7018 for protracted
periods, in out of the weather (my garage, for instance), but nonetheless
exposed to Southern-style humidity.
Thanks,
Alan
I was involved in a huge nameless fabrication activity. Some of my
duties involved sampling Low Hy electrodes for moisture content.
There was a limit depending on the strength of filler material. There
was a limit to the exposure time and then you had to return the filler
material to be held, disposed of, or reconditioned @ >300 F as others
have mentioned. That being said, after the electrodes were
reconditioned a number of times, you could "rebake" the electrodes by
increasing the temperature to >800 F and then held for a set time to
"drive" off the moisture.
The Hobart tech knows the "small operator" does not have access to a
welding laboratory, mechanical and/or chem laboratory to perform full
procedure testing as we had access to (money for us was no object), so
its better (cheaper, easier, by thousands of dollars.) to sell you
another can of unopened electrodes(+ Hobart makes money).
We were required to open 10 lb cans of Low HY electrode and test them
for moisture. Since the material was moisture sensitive we were
required to dispose of any of the remainder from the cans. We used to
stick them on a pallet and occasionally, workers would stop by and ask
if we had any electrodes that they could have for "country jobs" (home
use, fence building?).
So, you have two types of welding, critical or non-critical. For
example, if your fence was likely to fall on someone walking by (or
like the attachment welds for that crane in NY), then yes it would be
considered critical. If your fence was just a visual embarassment to
your wife, family or others and if it fell over would not injure
anyone, than that would be considered non critical.
So, run a bead, grind it half way down, if you see any porosity or
other defects, then you probably wouldn't want to use that electrode,
if not, its probably still good to use for non-structural,
non-critical welding applications. Switch to E6011 or E6010 and be
done with it.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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| Ignoramus14119 |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 7:58 pm |
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Guest
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Roy, would a gas fired barbeque oven work for this application, if it
could achieve 650-700F (as mine can, IIRC).
i |
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| RoyJ |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:07 pm |
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Guest
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A decent double burner BBQ should get up to the proper temp. Regulating
it for an hour might be dicey. Lincoln was rather specific on the temps
and times. I have a type K thermocouple thermometer that reads
accurately at that temp, most folks would not have something suitable.
Another issue is that the air in the BBQ is likely to be fairly high in
moisture but no more so than any other gas fired oven.
Ignoramus14119 wrote:
Quote: Roy, would a gas fired barbeque oven work for this application, if it
could achieve 650-700F (as mine can, IIRC).
i |
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| Alan Andrews |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:11 pm |
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Guest
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Thanks much. I think it's safe to say that my application falls into the
"non-critical" category. What with the expense of low hydrogen nowadays,
though, one needs to have a really good reason for throwing away undamaged
stick electrodes.
Thanks again,
Alan
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:13uddqkanuaiqb0@corp.supernews.com...
Quote: The Lincoln "Stick Electrode Product Catalog"
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c210.pdf
page 46
has this to say
start quote
Re-drying Low Hydrogen Electrodes
Re-drying, when done correctly, restores the electrodes’ ability to
deposit quality welds. Proper re-drying temperature depends upon the
electrode type and its condition.
One hour at the listed final temperature is satisfactory. DO NOT
dry electrodes at higher temperatures. Several hours at lower
temperatures is not equivalent to using the specified
requirements.
Electrodes of the E8018 and higher strength classifications
should be given no more than three 1-hour re-dries in the 700° -
800°F (370° - 430°C) range. This minimizes the possibility of
oxidation of alloys in the coating resulting in lower than normal
tensile or impact properties.
Any low hydrogen electrode should be discarded if excessive redrying
causes the coating to become fragile and flake or break
off while welding, or if there is a noticeable difference in handling
or arc characteristics, such as insufficient arc force.
Electrodes to be re-dried should be removed from the can and
spread out in the oven because each electrode must reach the
drying temperature.
Electrodes which have come in direct contact with water or which have been
exposed to high humidity 180° - 220°F for one hour, then 650° - 750°F for
one hour.
End quote
That temp schedule is not achievable in a standard rod oven, hence the
comments you get from the various sources.
Should you use it? If this was a critical application, toss the rod. If it
is not a critical application, you can use your judgment about drying the
rod per the schedule, then deal with "if there is a noticeable difference
in handling or arc characteristics, such as insufficient arc force". In
most cases, the problems with lousy rod far outweigh the cost of the rod,
not to mention the cost of materials and the time to weld.
Alan Andrews wrote:
Some time ago I purchased a 50# box of E7018 Hobart electrodes. I'm not
a professional welder, nor do I have occasion to do that much welding,
which means that I had an open box of low hydrogen exposed to atmospheric
humidity for quite some time, like a year.
I'm in the midst of building a custom steel fence on the front of my
residence property and some of the welding will be done with low
hydrogen. At the local welding supply I mentioned in passing the story
about the opened rods and asked if low hydrogen rods actually "got old,"
like I'd heard for ever. They indicated that they did indeed degrade,
such so that they couldn't even be reconditioned in an oven.
When I got home I called Hobart and spoke with a technician who said that
once low hydrogen was exposed to the atmosphere, it immediately started
*irreversibly* degrading, and that, yes, re-drying them in an oven didn't
help. I said that that would seem to indicate that a chemical reaction
had taken place (with what I thought was rather inert inorganic material
(rutile, for instance)) and he, sorta handwavingly (if that's a word)
said, yeah.
To confuse and confound the question, I found a document on the Web from
Lincoln Electric that indicated that Lincoln E7018 could indeed be
reclaimed by drying in an oven
(http://www.jflf.org/pdfs/papers/fabguide.pdf, p. 7). So...what IS the
story on storing an open quanity of 7018 for protracted periods, in out
of the weather (my garage, for instance), but nonetheless exposed to
Southern-style humidity.
Thanks,
Alan |
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| Alan Andrews |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:12 pm |
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Guest
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"...or white powder deposits on the coating."
Funny you should mention that. They DO have a white powdery residue on
them. That's bad, I take it?
"Private" <please@dont.bother> wrote in message
news:fs6fvl$c83$1@aioe.org...
Quote:
"Grant Erwin" <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:uQyFj.221$Pc2.102@trndny06...
Alan Andrews wrote:
Some time ago I purchased a 50# box of E7018 Hobart electrodes. I'm not
a professional welder, nor do I have occasion to do that much welding,
which means that I had an open box of low hydrogen exposed to
atmospheric humidity for quite some time, like a year.
I'm in the midst of building a custom steel fence on the front of my
residence property and some of the welding will be done with low
hydrogen. At the local welding supply I mentioned in passing the story
about the opened rods and asked if low hydrogen rods actually "got old,"
like I'd heard for ever. They indicated that they did indeed degrade,
such so that they couldn't even be reconditioned in an oven.
When I got home I called Hobart and spoke with a technician who said
that once low hydrogen was exposed to the atmosphere, it immediately
started *irreversibly* degrading, and that, yes, re-drying them in an
oven didn't help. I said that that would seem to indicate that a
chemical reaction had taken place (with what I thought was rather inert
inorganic material (rutile, for instance)) and he, sorta handwavingly
(if that's a word) said, yeah.
To confuse and confound the question, I found a document on the Web from
Lincoln Electric that indicated that Lincoln E7018 could indeed be
reclaimed by drying in an oven
(http://www.jflf.org/pdfs/papers/fabguide.pdf, p. 7). So...what IS the
story on storing an open quanity of 7018 for protracted periods, in out
of the weather (my garage, for instance), but nonetheless exposed to
Southern-style humidity.
Alan, stop a bit and think about what you are asking. You are building a
fence! The welds you need on your fence need be little more than decent
tacks.
Unless you are incorporating a heavy gate, there is little stress on a
fence
at any time. You have no need of the ultimate failing strength of 70000
pounds
that you get from perfectly maintained 7018 rods.
I once acquired quite a bit (~100 pounds) of old 7018 rod. It was open,
dumped
into a large cardboard box, and would have never been suitable for a
certified
weld. Yet I welded with it, making dozens of useful items. Were they as
strong
as they would have been if I'd bought new rod each time and kept it in an
oven?
No. Were they plenty strong enough? Absolutely.
You have already gotten conflicting opinions from Hobart and Lincoln, why
would
anything posted on a newsgroup carry any more weight than those?
I would stop worrying and weld up your fence with your rod.
there .. that was worth at LEAST what you paid for it!
Grant Erwin
I agree.
Unless we are talking about rods that have been soaked or have been
exposed to wet atmosphere for a very long time and/or bear evidence of
deterioration due to heavy rust or white powder deposits on the coating.
Most/many low hydrogen rods have lime and other hygroscopic materials in
the coating and will attract moisture and if severe it can make them
unpleasant to weld and with poor quality results.
Low hydrogen rods (and SA Lincoln welders) were developed to limit
hydrogen embitterment (WW11 Liberty ships) which is mostly a problem of
high duty cycle loading and is similar to fatigue. It often manifests
itself by underbead cracking and is sometimes the problem when people
point to a crack beside a weld and comment that the weld was stronger than
the parent metal. AFAIK, most plain steel is only good for ~45k tensile
and normal rods like xx10, xx11, xx13, xx14 are not low hydrogen but still
make lots of satisfactory and serviceable welds.
Unless this is a code fence built with high tensile steel you are unlikely
to have any problems even if you do not dry your rods at all, but a simple
drying for ~1hr in a kitchen range @ 350-450 (spread then out on the wire
rack) is unlikely to do any harm and will probably improve their
performance. Only dry them as you need them as repeated drying is not
desirable. The place where it is most important to use new rods from a
sealed container is when welding pressure pipe or high strength steels
subject to high loads and cycles and where failure will have consequences.
I would be very careful of the condition of rods used for welding anything
critical and particularly trailer hitches or suspensions for on road use.
If it is not possible to keep you rods in a warm dryer, it is worthwhile
to keep them in containers that limit the contact with air, and to open
new boxes when doing critical work.
Just my .02, YMMV
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| RoyJ |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:30 pm |
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Guest
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A light powdery residue is not too alarming (as long as you are not
trying to be code compliant) but major white fuzz is not good. Any rod
where the flux cracks or falls off is completely worthless.
Alan Andrews wrote:
Quote: "...or white powder deposits on the coating."
Funny you should mention that. They DO have a white powdery residue on
them. That's bad, I take it?
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| Martin H. Eastburn |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:40 pm |
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Guest
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How about a timer controlled - counter oven - a convection oven or the like.
e.g. smaller than a microwave. Has temp control, nice trays, long enough,
and has a timer. Nicer than building one or buying one - pick one up
at a driveway sale!!!
I got moms after she passed and we had one so the older but nicer one went
to the shop. Nice convection oven.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
Ignoramus14119 wrote:
Quote: Roy, would a gas fired barbeque oven work for this application, if it
could achieve 650-700F (as mine can, IIRC).
i
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http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
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| Grant Erwin |
Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:49 pm |
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Guest
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What Ernie says about old 7018 is simple. Pick a single rod at random. Bend it
until the coating falls off the bend. If the metal underneath is corroded, the
rod is too old to use for code work. If it isn't, it can be restored to code
quality by reheating.
I had lots of old non-code-ever-again 7018 which had coating falling off, white
powder everywhere, all the things people say make it useless. I welded it all
up, every bit. Lots of times the coating would sort of disintegrate and I'd get
a funky spot in a weld, so what? I'd sand it a little and paint it and it was
all a whole LOT cheaper than buying new rod.
Grant |
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| Private |
Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:08 am |
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"Alan Andrews" <no-spam@foobox.com> wrote in message
news:p-2dnXsTHb5jk3ranZ2dnUVZ_vDinZ2d@centurytel.net...
Quote: "...or white powder deposits on the coating."
Funny you should mention that. They DO have a white powdery residue on
them. That's bad, I take it?
The exact chemistry of rod coatings is a bit beyond my knowledge but I have
noticed that rods that have been exposed to a lot of humidity often have a
white powdery residue that can often be wiped off with a glove. I suspect
it is from some coating substance that is leaching out due to moisture or
humidity. I have successfully used old rods that I have re-dried in a
kitchen range and while some did have a small amount of white residue, it
was not excessive and they were not used in critical applications.
I would suggest you dry some rods and do some test pieces to check for
weldability and porosity. Make a smallish weld on thick plate and break it
by bending with a long lever, this can often show porosity on the failure
line. For your fence job I would not be too concerned as long as the rods
burn OK and show no surface porosity. You can use good joint design and a
little more weld to add some allowance for reduced strength.
IMHE most failures of general fabwork are due to poor prep work, rusty
steel, poor joint design or just plain lack of operator skill. Most bad
rods make welds that look bad both as they are made and in post weld
appearance. Bad rods will exhibit coatings that bubble above the arc as
they are heated or do not burn off evenly and exhibit excessive
fingernailing or chunks of coating popping off as the rod is burned. It
sometimes acts like a bad case of arc blow. Bad rods are often very sticky
and the flux will fall off as the rod is bent to free the sticky end. they
can also cause excessive spatter. All these symptoms can have other causes
and most can also be found with new rods.
We all end up doing much of our general non-critical work with rods that
have not been stored to the standards required by critical work. I prefer
to buy rods in boxes that are sub packaged in 5 or10 lb sealed boxes and
open a new box when doing critical work. when I need to buy a big can of
rods I can often get my supplier to repackage the rods in smaller sealed
plastic bags with a blast of dry inert gas before sealing. It is always
easier to keep rods dry than to attempt to re-dry them.
Good luck, YMMV |
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