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Bob F
Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:50 am
Guest
"Bruce in Bangkok" <b*paige*125@g*mail.com> wrote in message
Quote:
I mixed up a batch of "Mr. Clean" and water and boiled a carburetor on
the stove using my wife's largest stainless steel, copper bottom,
cooking pot.

Did a really good job cleaning the carb, came out of the pot looking
just like a new one, but for two years my wife bitched about the
"gasoline" smell in the pot. Then we moved and the pot "got lost" in
the move and I had to buy a new one for her.

That's what thrift shop/garage sale pots are for.
Gunner
Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 12:11 pm
Guest
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 11:42:55 -0500, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net>
wrote:

Quote:
I forgot to mention: if the thing runs somewhat OK, mix a special batch
of fuel: couple gallons of fresh gas and a can of SeaFoam, just run the
gas through and keep tweaking the choke as it cleans out. You can use
some of the other carb cleaners, SeaFoam seems to work better on older
engines with dried up crud from storage.

ayup. Thats what I used in Moby Dick Worked very well.

Gunner

Quote:


They looked to be a little downward from that position when I originally
looked at it, so I bent them more up parallel. I'm going to find that big
screwdriver today and pull that main jet. I think that sounds like the most
logical so far. But I will get some carb cleaner and probe with pipe
cleaners and blow with air again. These things can be messed up with the
tiniest bit of crud, and this had a LOT.

Steve

Grant Erwin
Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:58 pm
Guest
SteveB wrote:

Quote:
"Maxwell" <luv^2^fly^99@^cox.^net> wrote in message
news:NHOEj.95177$Ft5.36989@newsfe15.lga...

"SteveB" <pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote in message
news:uuocb5-4ij.ln1@news.infowest.com...

Does the throttle linkage have a spring and vacuum chamber attached to
it?

There's two arms that run forward, one, I believe to the governor, the
other to a blue box which is mounted in the upper position. Both located
in the fan shroud area.

Blue box?? Does it have a removable inspeciton cover? Doesn't sound like a
vaccum controlled model to me. I'm no sure when they changed.


How much would you guess a carb is for these?

I really don't know, but you shouldn't need one. They are really simple.
It's just the kind of job you need to handle with great care. Especially
when removing, replacing and cleaning the orifices. You can usually check
the orifices by holding them up to a light. Make sure you can "sight"
through them.


Pulled it off today. It has two wires to it, and a sliding plunger. When
activated by electricity, it holds the idle at fast idle.

Steve



Check the resistance between those two wires. Should be something like
five ohms. Check for continuity between each wire and ground. Shouldn't
be any. Then apply 12 volts and see if the plunger actuates. If so,
there's nothing wrong with your weld idle solenoid.

Grant
SteveB
Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 12:25 am
Guest
"Maxwell" <luv^2^fly^99@^cox.^net> wrote in message
news:NHOEj.95177$Ft5.36989@newsfe15.lga...
Quote:

"SteveB" <pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote in message
news:uuocb5-4ij.ln1@news.infowest.com...

Does the throttle linkage have a spring and vacuum chamber attached to
it?

There's two arms that run forward, one, I believe to the governor, the
other to a blue box which is mounted in the upper position. Both located
in the fan shroud area.

Blue box?? Does it have a removable inspeciton cover? Doesn't sound like a
vaccum controlled model to me. I'm no sure when they changed.


How much would you guess a carb is for these?

I really don't know, but you shouldn't need one. They are really simple.
It's just the kind of job you need to handle with great care. Especially
when removing, replacing and cleaning the orifices. You can usually check
the orifices by holding them up to a light. Make sure you can "sight"
through them.

Pulled it off today. It has two wires to it, and a sliding plunger. When
activated by electricity, it holds the idle at fast idle.

Steve
Gunner
Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 5:08 am
Guest
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 22:01:19 -0800, "SteveB"
<pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote:

Quote:

"Maxwell" <luv^2^fly^99@^cox.^net> wrote in message
news:NHOEj.95177$Ft5.36989@newsfe15.lga...

"SteveB" <pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote in message
news:uuocb5-4ij.ln1@news.infowest.com...

Does the throttle linkage have a spring and vacuum chamber attached to
it?

There's two arms that run forward, one, I believe to the governor, the
other to a blue box which is mounted in the upper position. Both located
in the fan shroud area.

Blue box?? Does it have a removable inspeciton cover? Doesn't sound like a
vaccum controlled model to me. I'm no sure when they changed.


How much would you guess a carb is for these?

I really don't know, but you shouldn't need one. They are really simple.
It's just the kind of job you need to handle with great care. Especially
when removing, replacing and cleaning the orifices. You can usually check
the orifices by holding them up to a light. Make sure you can "sight"
through them.

Pulled it off today. It has two wires to it, and a sliding plunger. When
activated by electricity, it holds the idle at fast idle.

Steve

Thats called a solenoid.


If the solenoid is being energized all the time, either the fast/slow
switch is bad, or the arc/load sensor is bad.

My Ranger 9 has a similar issue. It doesn't recognize that I'm
striking an arc, so wont speed up. I can do this manually with the
fast/slow switch on the front. So I know the solenoid is ok.
So either Ive a wiring issue, or the load sensor board is DOA...please
Crom..let it not be that....

Gunner
RoyJ
Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:29 am
Guest
You need to move to a place with REAL shops. I have my choice of several
shops that can do a full radiator tear down, replace or plug cores as
required, resemble, clean, test, repaint. Last one I had done was $60 or
so a couple years back.


Quote:
As an aside, I called local radiator shops, and no one in town does rod and
core jobs on radiators. None have a dip tank. They say it's cheaper just
to buy a new one. I don't know about this old machine, and finding a
radiator, so I'll try my guy first. If it can be fixed, he'll fix it. He
can take the tops off and splice in a new core section, and all sorts of
marvelous tricks. But the bottom pan has mounting bolts that have to stay
where they are to mount it back up.

Drat.

Steve

SteveB
Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 12:07 pm
Guest
"Grant Erwin" <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote

Quote:
Check the resistance between those two wires. Should be something like
five ohms. Check for continuity between each wire and ground. Shouldn't
be any. Then apply 12 volts and see if the plunger actuates. If so,
there's nothing wrong with your weld idle solenoid.

Grant

Did that, and it tested okay. Then I got the hole punched in the radiator
and everything stopped. I think it's in the circuit board. I'll take the
radiator to Vegas Wednesday and have it repaired, and after that, use the
machine without the auto idle feature, and just clean up and paint. After
that, I'll take it to Vegas, or find a local shop that can fix the Lincoln
electronics on it. Right now, I'm dead in the water, so I'm working on home
remodel stuff for a few days.

As an aside, I called local radiator shops, and no one in town does rod and
core jobs on radiators. None have a dip tank. They say it's cheaper just
to buy a new one. I don't know about this old machine, and finding a
radiator, so I'll try my guy first. If it can be fixed, he'll fix it. He
can take the tops off and splice in a new core section, and all sorts of
marvelous tricks. But the bottom pan has mounting bolts that have to stay
where they are to mount it back up.

Drat.

Steve
SteveB
Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:22 pm
Guest
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:13ua9dimfvi201c@corp.supernews.com...
Quote:
You need to move to a place with REAL shops. I have my choice of several
shops that can do a full radiator tear down, replace or plug cores as
required, resemble, clean, test, repaint. Last one I had done was $60 or
so a couple years back.


My wife and I have 100 years between us living in Las Vegas. It is over a
million now and a zoo. We now live in a town of 1400 at the end of a dirt
road. We call it Green Acres after the TV show, because that is what it is
like around here. We go to the "big city" of St. George once in a while, or
to the next town to go to Ace or the market.

I'll gladly trade the inconvenience of not having access to some
conveniences for the peace and quiet I live in now. We go to Las Vegas at
least once a month for business, and if there's anything we "really" need,
it will wait a month.

When you move to a small town, you have to adjust your internal speedometer,
as life moves slower.

Steve
 
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