Took the carb off the SA 200 today and found the offending clogged port.
Put it back together. Was running really good.

Then TWANG!

Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have no
clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud. I'll
take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know has
a shop.

It's always something.

In the meantime, I have just put it all on hold and am working on other home
projects.

Steve

You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 22:09:38 -0800, "SteveB"
pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote:

Took the carb off the SA 200 today and found the offending clogged port.
Put it back together. Was running really good.

Then TWANG!

Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have no
clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud. I'll
take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know
has
a shop.

It's always something.

In the meantime, I have just put it all on hold and am working on other
home
projects.

Steve

You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?

Gunner
I have successfully repaired radiator holes with JB Weld as well as with

"Gunner" <gunner@NOSPAM.lightspeed.net> wrote in message
news:mmm9u31d5pe5h294gke2vqsfk06okrlask@4ax.com...
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 22:09:38 -0800, "SteveB"
pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote:

Took the carb off the SA 200 today and found the offending clogged port.
Put it back together. Was running really good.

Then TWANG!

Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have no
clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud. I'll
take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know
has
a shop.

It's always something.

In the meantime, I have just put it all on hold and am working on other
home
projects.

Steve

You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?

Gunner
I have successfully repaired radiator holes with JB Weld as well as with
solder.

Don Young

Then TWANG!

Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have
no
clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud. I'll
take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know
has
a shop.


You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?

Gunner
I have successfully repaired radiator holes with JB Weld as well as with
solder.

Don Young

I tried some solder I use for pipes, but it wouldn't work. I will buy
some acid core today and try that. I did use flux, too, but no dice. My
MAPP gas torch was acting up, so had to use propane/ox cutting torch at a
very low setting. May buy a new valve today, too.

Steve

"SteveB" <pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote in message
news:bjaib5-3b21.ln1@news.infowest.com...

Then TWANG!

Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have
no
clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud.
I'll
take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know
has
a shop.


You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?

Gunner
I have successfully repaired radiator holes with JB Weld as well as with
solder.

Don Young

I tried some solder I use for pipes, but it wouldn't work. I will buy
some acid core today and try that. I did use flux, too, but no dice. My
MAPP gas torch was acting up, so had to use propane/ox cutting torch at a
very low setting. May buy a new valve today, too.

Steve

Considering the low initial cost and very high value of this machine as
well as its age, IMHO it is well worth doing a proper complete rebuild of
the rad at this time. A field repair with solder or especially JB weld is
IMHE a temporary fix and IMHO this machine deserves better.

IMHE these rads do suffer damage from vibration and failed solder joints
and mounts are fairly common. Most older cooling systems are also
suffering the effects of ageing coolant with silica gel and dropout as
well as internal corrosion. These old copper & brass rads will really
benefit from a proper rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank,
removal of the end tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will
benefit from solder renewal. This rebuild work will allow the rad to give
many more years of service, consider it a half-life rebuild.

I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block flush
before refilling with a 50/50 mixture of long life antifreeze and
DISTILLED water. DO NOT USE TAP (OR ESPECIALLY WELL) WATER FOR MIXING
COOLANT. Distilled or RO or other deionized water can be obtained
inexpensively at most health food stores or you can use premixed$$
coolant.

I also suggest this may be a good time to replace the drain plugs and
valves with new valves with attached drain hoses that will facilitate easy
recovery of coolant at any future required servicing.

When you go to see your friend the rad guy, I suggest you also take your
gas tank as the rad cleaning tank will also do a great job of removing any
old gas gunk & varnish from it.

Good luck, YMMV

The EU ROHS regs that mandate lead free electrical solder have resulted
in a lot of issue with connection failures from vibration and thermal
cycling. They had to exempt anything aerospace so it wouldn't start
killing people.

rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank, removal of the end
tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will benefit from solder
renewal. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

"Private" wrote: (clip) These old copper & brass rads will really
benefit from a proper
rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank, removal of the end
tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will benefit from solder
renewal. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Will the radiator shop use old-fashioned lead-tin solder, or are they
required to use lead-free? Do the troubles I've heard about electrical
solder joints extend to radiators as well? Seems really relevant in an
application like this, with lots of vibration.

"Leo Lichtman" <l.lichtman@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:usyFj.35697$D_3.5759@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

"Private" wrote: (clip) These old copper & brass rads will really
benefit from a proper
rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank, removal of the end
tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will benefit from solder
renewal. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Will the radiator shop use old-fashioned lead-tin solder, or are they
required to use lead-free? Do the troubles I've heard about electrical
solder joints extend to radiators as well? Seems really relevant in an
application like this, with lots of vibration.

Regulations may /often vary in different jurisdictions, but AFAIK lead free
solder is only required to be used in plumbing potable water. I am not
aware of issues with electrical troubles, please enlighten me. In this case
most of the original solder will probably remain on the parts and very
little additional solder will be required.

I still have lots of old solder in my stock and have not needed to buy any
recently but am not aware of any problems obtaining lead-tin solder from the
usual industrial suppliers, you may not be able to buy it from Home Depot or
small plumbing suppliers. I do not really like the flux or acid cored wire
solders and prefer to use solid wire solder and separate flux. Even
electrical work seems to have better results when wires are dipped in flux
even when using flux cored solder. In any event the real key seems to be
doing a really good cleaning before any soldering starts. Quality welding,
brazing, soldering and painting are all mostly about preparation.

I agree that this application involving old technology four cylinder engines
is prone to lots of vibration, and towing on a trailer can lead to large
shock loads from rough roads.

Just my .02, YMMV

"SteveB" <pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote in message
news:bjaib5-3b21.ln1@news.infowest.com...

Then TWANG!

Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have
no
clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud.
I'll
take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know
has
a shop.


You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?

Gunner
I have successfully repaired radiator holes with JB Weld as well as with
solder.

Don Young

I tried some solder I use for pipes, but it wouldn't work. I will buy
some acid core today and try that. I did use flux, too, but no dice. My
MAPP gas torch was acting up, so had to use propane/ox cutting torch at a
very low setting. May buy a new valve today, too.

Steve

Considering the low initial cost and very high value of this machine as
well as its age, IMHO it is well worth doing a proper complete rebuild of
the rad at this time. A field repair with solder or especially JB weld is
IMHE a temporary fix and IMHO this machine deserves better.

IMHE these rads do suffer damage from vibration and failed solder joints
and mounts are fairly common. Most older cooling systems are also
suffering the effects of ageing coolant with silica gel and dropout as
well as internal corrosion. These old copper & brass rads will really
benefit from a proper rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank,
removal of the end tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will
benefit from solder renewal. This rebuild work will allow the rad to give
many more years of service, consider it a half-life rebuild.

I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block flush
before refilling with a 50/50 mixture of long life antifreeze and
DISTILLED water. DO NOT USE TAP (OR ESPECIALLY WELL) WATER FOR MIXING
COOLANT. Distilled or RO or other deionized water can be obtained
inexpensively at most health food stores or you can use premixed$$
coolant.

I also suggest this may be a good time to replace the drain plugs and
valves with new valves with attached drain hoses that will facilitate easy
recovery of coolant at any future required servicing.

When you go to see your friend the rad guy, I suggest you also take your
gas tank as the rad cleaning tank will also do a great job of removing any
old gas gunk & varnish from it.

Good luck, YMMV

"Don Young" <notme@nonesuch.com> wrote in message
news:13ubf553qc9rnc3@corp.supernews.com...
"Gunner" <gunner@NOSPAM.lightspeed.net> wrote in message
news:mmm9u31d5pe5h294gke2vqsfk06okrlask@4ax.com...
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 22:09:38 -0800, "SteveB"
pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote:

Took the carb off the SA 200 today and found the offending clogged port.
Put it back together. Was running really good.

Then TWANG!

Something fell into the fan and it threw it into the radiator causing a
hole. Looked under the engine, and it was half a lock washer. I have no
clue where it vibrated from, probably somewhere around the shroud. I'll
take the radiator to Vegas Wednesday where the best radiator man I know
has
a shop.

It's always something.

In the meantime, I have just put it all on hold and am working on other
home
projects.

Steve

You simply cant use acid core solder to patch the hole?

Gunner
I have successfully repaired radiator holes with JB Weld as well as with
solder.

Don Young

I tried some solder I use for pipes, but it wouldn't work. I will buy some
acid core today and try that. I did use flux, too, but no dice. My MAPP
gas torch was acting up, so had to use propane/ox cutting torch at a very
low setting. May buy a new valve today, too.

Steve

"Private" wrote: (clip) These old copper & brass rads will really benefit
from a proper
rad rebuild including a soak in the cleaning tank, removal of the end
tanks and a rod out, and the mounts and joints will benefit from solder
renewal. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Will the radiator shop use old-fashioned lead-tin solder, or are they
required to use lead-free? Do the troubles I've heard about electrical
solder joints extend to radiators as well? Seems really relevant in an
application like this, with lots of vibration.

"Private" <please@dont.bother> wrote

I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block
flush before refilling

"Private" <please@dont.bother> wrote

I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block
flush before refilling

How does one go about that? I had thought I'd take off the thermostat
neck, get a new thermostat while I'm in there, and just flush water
through to get out the big stuff. Then, after I seal everything up, buy a
product for rad flushing. Tips appreciated. When I drained, it, it had
remarkably green/clearish liquid. But I do see some rust and crud in the
passages. Might as well do all this while it's apart.

Steve