hi all,
i remember some years ago a person i worked with telling me that once the
cut is started you need only oxy to maintain it and can turn off the fuel.
Ive been experimenting with this a bit at work lately as we have a bit of
spare time. I've had mixed results......


Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!

On Feb 10, 2:03 am, "Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoe...@bigpond.com
wrote:
hi all,
i remember some years ago a person i worked with telling me that once the
cut is started you need only oxy to maintain it and can turn off the
fuel.
Ive been experimenting with this a bit at work lately as we have a bit of
spare time. I've had mixed results......


Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!

I just did a quick google and if you do that, or go with
"Australian Thermic Lance Company" you'll have enough to get started.
Meanwhile, I've developed an unholy interest in thermal spray welding.
Anyone out there with hands-on experience who can tell me about the
limitations? It would seem to best begin with adhesion and figure that
in a while I'll be able to ask some more or less intelligent
questions.......
Brian

I always go for a slightly oxidizing flame because it is hotter. If I am
cutting all day I keep reducing my size of preheat until I have trouble
maintaining the cut then increase it just a bit. You get a nicer cut with
no melted slag hanging under.
You will always need an small additional source of heat to keep the
steel
burning continuously.
Randy

The REAL version of this is the boring machines used in the taconite
mines. Taconite is an extremely hard, flinty version of iron ore this is
considerably harder than granit. To bore a hole for blasting, they use a
rig with two pipes, one O2 and the other is kerosene, just light it off,
lower it to the rock, let it go.

On Feb 10, 10:05?am, RoyJ wrote:

The REAL version of this is the boring machines used in the taconite
mines. Taconite is an extremely hard, flinty version of iron ore this is
considerably harder than granit. To bore a hole for blasting, they use a
rig with two pipes, one O2 and the other is kerosene, just light it off,
lower it to the rock, let it go.


Roy....you from "Da Range" ?

If so, I aint but an hour or so south of ya.

--
Big Ben
the "aint nothin' stranger than a ranger" Slug <G

I was taught neutral and just a little bit on the side towards oxidizing.
We are not talking a lot of adjustment here. It especially helps with
Propane as the fuel since it does not burn at as high a temp as
acetylene.
As I said it is more of an adjustment where you ask yourself, " Am I on
the lean side of neutral or the rich side of neutral?" If I was teaching
someone to use a hand torch I would just teach them to adjust to neutral.
There are a lot more things to learn before fussing around with this
little modification.
Randy

"Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoecke@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:yDFzh.6174$sd2.2899@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
why do people always teach that a neutral flame is right then? the way i
had been shows was; turn on fuel, ignite, increse fuel to the point where
flame just separates from tip, then reduce slightly. introduce oxygen to
the point of a neutral flame. squeeze trigger and ballance flame to
neutral. cut away

but now im thinking that an oxidizing flame seems a better way to go and
is certainly a lot cleaner in the cut. have i been steered wrong all
this time?

Shaun

"

"Curt Welch" wrote: (clip) So I don't understand what you mean by
adjusting for a neutral flame after you pull the trigger. That doesn't
make sense to me. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I was taught to adjust the little rosebud flames to neutral first. Then
pull the lever to turn on the cutting oxygen--and then trim the
adjustment of the rosebud back to neutral; it will go rich because the
pressure drops more in the hose when the main oxygen stream is on.

The oxygen in the cutting stream does not count as part of the rosebud
flame balance.

Is an oxidising flame the way to go then?

thanks,
shaun

"R. Zimmerman" <m-zimmerman@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Eutzh.938429$R63.308894@pd7urf1no...

Yes you can cut without fuel for short periods but you cannot maintain a
cut with oxygen only more than a few seconds.
Generally the less preheat you have the better cut you will get. You
still however do need some preheat.
Randy

Used to be, now I'm in the big city an hour south of YOU.

On Feb 11, 11:49?am, RoyJ <spaml...@microsoft.net> wrote:

Used to be, now I'm in the big city an hour south of YOU.


now, why, in the name of God, wouldja wanna live down there? <G> ya
shoulda stayed in God's Country.


--
Big Ben
the "but it's a fun place to visit" Slug

if ya come north on a friday or saturday, stop at the bar in Brookston
and ask fer me.

"brian458666" <brian458...@genext.net> wrote in message

news:1171184212.747862.137540@p10g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...





On Feb 10, 2:03 am, "Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoe...@bigpond.com
wrote:
hi all,
i remember some years ago a person i worked with telling me that once the
cut is started you need only oxy to maintain it and can turn off the
fuel.
Ive been experimenting with this a bit at work lately as we have a bit of
spare time. I've had mixed results......

Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!

I just did a quick google and if you do that, or go with
"Australian Thermic Lance Company" you'll have enough to get started.
Meanwhile, I've developed an unholy interest in thermal spray welding.
Anyone out there with hands-on experience who can tell me about the
limitations? It would seem to best begin with adhesion and figure that
in a while I'll be able to ask some more or less intelligent
questions.......
Brian

Hi Brian,
if you read through the thread, you'll notice that thermic lancing is a
completely different and unrelated topic using entirely different equipment
with pretty mush a different end result. what we are talking about here is
using standard oxy cutting torches with oxy only once the cut has been
established.

thanks for hi-jacking my thread though ;-)

Shaun-