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Rich Grise
Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:32 pm
Guest
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 00:57:38 +0000, Pete C. wrote:
Quote:
Ignoramus31248 wrote:
On Sat, 10 Feb 2007 22:28:55 GMT, Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote:
I have never, ever seen a normal T1 3/4 LED fused before. LEDs cost less
than the dang fuse and holder. If they fail they explode and open the
circuit just like the fuse would. In addition, a .25A aka 250mA fuse
won't blow before the LED explodes and the series resistor limits the
available current anyway.

I am more concerned about accidental shorts, than with protecting
LED.

A single fuse in the common ground line to the LED assembly will provide
that protection.

Never, ever fuse a ground. Put the fuse in the +12 supply line.

Thanks,
Rich
Ignoramus21592
Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:41 pm
Guest
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:32:03 GMT, Rich Grise <rich@example.net> wrote:
Quote:
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 00:57:38 +0000, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus31248 wrote:
On Sat, 10 Feb 2007 22:28:55 GMT, Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote:
I have never, ever seen a normal T1 3/4 LED fused before. LEDs cost less
than the dang fuse and holder. If they fail they explode and open the
circuit just like the fuse would. In addition, a .25A aka 250mA fuse
won't blow before the LED explodes and the series resistor limits the
available current anyway.

I am more concerned about accidental shorts, than with protecting
LED.

A single fuse in the common ground line to the LED assembly will provide
that protection.

Never, ever fuse a ground. Put the fuse in the +12 supply line.

Fusing ground is not practical for me (everything is grounded to
case), so I will put fuses in input lines.

Got my registration papers in today.

i
joseph2k
Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 6:46 am
Guest
Ignoramus31248 wrote:

Quote:
On Sat, 10 Feb 2007 19:28:12 -0500, John Husvar <jhusvar@sbcglobal.net
wrote:
In article <XMGdnc-dKduXoVPYnZ2dnUVZ_rWnnZ2d@giganews.com>,
Ignoramus31248 <ignoramus31248@NOSPAM.31248.invalid> wrote:

Followup to my electrical box questions.


http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/08-Trailer-El
ectrical-Box/


"It has a rubber seal and lockable locking handle. It is waterproof
(weatherproof)."

Was. :)

Bringing the wiring out through ordinary box connectors took care of
that, even if you filled around the wires with silicone seal or somesuch.

You might want to look around for sealed connectors. They have a rubber
grommet that compresses around the cable. Hubbell used to make nice
ones, though pricey.

It's amazing how much road spray will get into supposedly watertight
boxes through such small openings.

Still, nice neat box. Only thing you're lacking are enclosure heaters to
keep the condensation down. :)

I have a 30w control box heater. Maybe I will use it. I will see how
bad road spray problem is, practically speaking. After all I can just
wipe the inside of the box after some bad trailer trips.

i

In the mean time you should wipe it down after every trip until you lern how
to judge which ones are bad.

--
JosephKK
Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
--Schiller
 
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