Would you please do a short commentary on the learning curve of 7018, and
four or five of the most basic pointers/mistakes? About how long does it
take your average student to really "get the hang" of it? Comments on other
things you have observed as a teacher.

Or post a site where one could go?

I've welded a lot of 7018, and I wished I lived close to a lot of the guys
here who ask, so I'd just get together and show them in an hour what it
would take a week to learn.

It's like riding a bike. How do you describe it in words? But I can teach
any kid to ride one in an hour. Taught both of mine in an hour each. (If
interested, post so, and I'll explain it. It's simple enough that I can
explain that one.)

Thanks Ernie.

Steve

In article <FBuvh.4448$Lx2.2912@newsfe14.phx>,
"Steve B" <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:

Would you please do a short commentary on the learning curve of 7018, and
four or five of the most basic pointers/mistakes? About how long does it
take your average student to really "get the hang" of it? Comments on other
things you have observed as a teacher.

Or post a site where one could go?

I've welded a lot of 7018, and I wished I lived close to a lot of the guys
here who ask, so I'd just get together and show them in an hour what it
would take a week to learn.

It's like riding a bike. How do you describe it in words? But I can teach
any kid to ride one in an hour. Taught both of mine in an hour each. (If
interested, post so, and I'll explain it. It's simple enough that I can
explain that one.)

Thanks Ernie.

Steve

I can explain the stance, the approach, the travel speed, and the arc
distance, but without pictures it can still be hard to grasp.

OK to start.

I will go with a fillet weld to explain stance.

Put a 1/8" 7018 electrode in the stinger.

Feet placed shoulder width apart, facing the table.
Position your pieces near the edge of the table.

Hold the upper piece in place while tacking.
Tack both ends.
To tack use a scratching motion sideways to strike the arc, then hold
the arc in place long enough for a strong tack to form.

At all times you must maintain a very short arc.

Every time you stop the arc you must chip or tap the flux off the end.
You can tap the rod on the floor, the wide end of a chipping hammer, or
a piece of steel in your hand..
You can also use your thumb to to break the flux crown off the end, but
this can break off more flux than you want.
Too much exposed wire on the rod end will make it stick like crazy.

To make the fillet weld.
Start with the rod at a 90 degree angle side to side and 45 degrees up
and down.
Now swing the back end of the rod 10 to 20 degrees in the direction of
travel.
Now swing it down about 30 degrees so you have an angle of 10 to 20
degrees from the table.

Strike the arc using a slight sideways scratching technique then hold
the arc about 1/16" from the metal.

7018 can be run with a simple stringer bead (no weave) or a slight slow
side to side weave, but never crossing over existing flux, hence no
circles or back and forth motions.

Proper travel speed means using a 14" electrode in 5" to 6" of weld.
This holds for any position.

All motion must be slow and smooth.
Beads should have an even smooth appearance, with a smooth tie in on
both sides.
There should never be any sharp crevices.

If you run a good brand of 7018 at the correct speed and motion, the
flux should be very easy to remove.

My favorite brand is Lincoln Excalibur.

In article <FBuvh.4448$Lx2.2912@newsfe14.phx>,
"Steve B" <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:

Would you please do a short commentary on the learning curve of 7018,
and four or five of the most basic pointers/mistakes? About how long
does it take your average student to really "get the hang" of it?
Comments on other things you have observed as a teacher.

Or post a site where one could go?

I've welded a lot of 7018, and I wished I lived close to a lot of the
guys here who ask, so I'd just get together and show them in an hour
what it would take a week to learn.

It's like riding a bike. How do you describe it in words? But I can
teach any kid to ride one in an hour. Taught both of mine in an hour
each. (If interested, post so, and I'll explain it. It's simple
enough that I can explain that one.)

Thanks Ernie.

Steve

I can explain the stance, the approach, the travel speed, and the arc
distance, but without pictures it can still be hard to grasp.

OK to start.

I will go with a fillet weld to explain stance.

Put a 1/8" 7018 electrode in the stinger.

Feet placed shoulder width apart, facing the table.
Position your pieces near the edge of the table.

Hold the upper piece in place while tacking.
Tack both ends.
To tack use a scratching motion sideways to strike the arc, then hold
the arc in place long enough for a strong tack to form.

At all times you must maintain a very short arc.

Every time you stop the arc you must chip or tap the flux off the end.
You can tap the rod on the floor, the wide end of a chipping hammer, or
a piece of steel in your hand..
You can also use your thumb to to break the flux crown off the end, but
this can break off more flux than you want.
Too much exposed wire on the rod end will make it stick like crazy.

To make the fillet weld.
Start with the rod at a 90 degree angle side to side and 45 degrees up
and down.
Now swing the back end of the rod 10 to 20 degrees in the direction of
travel.
Now swing it down about 30 degrees so you have an angle of 10 to 20
degrees from the table.

Strike the arc using a slight sideways scratching technique then hold
the arc about 1/16" from the metal.

7018 can be run with a simple stringer bead (no weave) or a slight slow
side to side weave, but never crossing over existing flux, hence no
circles or back and forth motions.

Proper travel speed means using a 14" electrode in 5" to 6" of weld.
This holds for any position.

All motion must be slow and smooth.
Beads should have an even smooth appearance, with a smooth tie in on
both sides.
There should never be any sharp crevices.

If you run a good brand of 7018 at the correct speed and motion, the
flux should be very easy to remove.

My favorite brand is Lincoln Excalibur.

Steve and Ernie, thanks for a great discussion, I saved this post. I
need to make a few vertical welds making a fillet weld to join 1/4" to
1/8". I will try that.

i

local options? What do you look under in the yellow pages for example?
Most of what I've seen so far look like they only supply large quantities
for construction or other commercial applications.

I live in Northern VA outside of DC. Does anyone in the group know about
places in this part of the world they could point me to?

--
Curt Welch

Ernie Leimkuhler <stagesm...@mindspring.com> wrote:
In article <FBuvh.4448$Lx2.2...@newsfe14.phx>,
"Steve B" <dsrttr...@aol.com> wrote:

Would you please do a short commentary on the learning curve of 7018,
and four or five of the most basic pointers/mistakes? About how long
does it take your average student to really "get the hang" of it?
Comments on other things you have observed as a teacher.

Or post a site where one could go?

I've welded a lot of 7018, and I wished I lived close to a lot of the
guys here who ask, so I'd just get together and show them in an hour
what it would take a week to learn.

It's like riding a bike. How do you describe it in words? But I can
teach any kid to ride one in an hour. Taught both of mine in an hour
each. (If interested, post so, and I'll explain it. It's simple
enough that I can explain that one.)

Thanks Ernie.

Steve

I can explain the stance, the approach, the travel speed, and the arc
distance, but without pictures it can still be hard to grasp.

OK to start.

I will go with a fillet weld to explain stance.

Put a 1/8" 7018 electrode in the stinger.

Feet placed shoulder width apart, facing the table.
Position your pieces near the edge of the table.

Hold the upper piece in place while tacking.
Tack both ends.
To tack use a scratching motion sideways to strike the arc, then hold
the arc in place long enough for a strong tack to form.

At all times you must maintain a very short arc.

Every time you stop the arc you must chip or tap the flux off the end.
You can tap the rod on the floor, the wide end of a chipping hammer, or
a piece of steel in your hand..
You can also use your thumb to to break the flux crown off the end, but
this can break off more flux than you want.
Too much exposed wire on the rod end will make it stick like crazy.

To make the fillet weld.
Start with the rod at a 90 degree angle side to side and 45 degrees up
and down.
Now swing the back end of the rod 10 to 20 degrees in the direction of
travel.
Now swing it down about 30 degrees so you have an angle of 10 to 20
degrees from the table.

Strike the arc using a slight sideways scratching technique then hold
the arc about 1/16" from the metal.

7018 can be run with a simple stringer bead (no weave) or a slight slow
side to side weave, but never crossing over existing flux, hence no
circles or back and forth motions.

Proper travel speed means using a 14" electrode in 5" to 6" of weld.
This holds for any position.

All motion must be slow and smooth.
Beads should have an even smooth appearance, with a smooth tie in on
both sides.
There should never be any sharp crevices.

If you run a good brand of 7018 at the correct speed and motion, the
flux should be very easy to remove.

My favorite brand is Lincoln Excalibur.I'll probably be trying this in class Wednesday. Thanks for the pointers.

Last week in class was my first time welding period so I have a lot to
learn just to get started. I just wish I didn't have to wait a week. If I
had my way, I'd be spending 8 hours a day practicing. I really don't
know why I waited so long to pick this up (I'm 50).

BTW, I'm trying to find where I can get mild steel in my area so I can see
what it costs. Just simple stuff for small welding projects and for
practicing welding (when I get some hardware). All I know about know is
the stuff you can get from Home Depot or Lowes but I assume I can find much
better prices without having to buy too much steel. How do I find other
local options? What do you look under in the yellow pages for example?
Most of what I've seen so far look like they only supply large quantities
for construction or other commercial applications.

I live in Northern VA outside of DC. Does anyone in the group know about
places in this part of the world they could point me to?

--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
c...@kcwc.com http://NewsReader.Com/- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

"Curt Welch" <curt@kcwc.com> wrote

How do I find other
local options? What do you look under in the yellow pages for example?
Most of what I've seen so far look like they only supply large
quantities for construction or other commercial applications.

I live in Northern VA outside of DC. Does anyone in the group know
about places in this part of the world they could point me to?

--
Curt Welch

Look under steel suppliers and steel fabricators. My local company,
Curtis Steel, has tons and tons of drops and rems they have hauled off
every week. I can go down there and find plates I need in their scrap
pile. If you're just looking for stuff to practice weld on, there'd be
more than you could use in a year.

But it's expensive. It's thirty cents a pound. When they charge me,
that is. I have an account, and usually, I can pick up what I need, and
the guy just waves me on when I ask him how much. Now, if you need
something punched, sheared, or bent, it will cost you, but it is
remarkable what a fab shop throws away, and what they will sell you for a
few bucks.

Just look through the yellow pages, or, if you can, take a drive.

Steve

Hey Curt,

I started welding at about age 50. Now, it's 8 years later. And I'm
still as enthusiastic about it as I ever was. I've found learning to
weld to be one of the most satisfying paths I've ever taken.

Today, I bought three sticks of NEW oilwell casing pipe. It was 5
1/2" diameter with something like a 3/8" wall. Weighs 17# per foot.
This is some serious material.

You picked some good pipe.

Steve

You picked some good pipe.

Steve

Thank you, Steve. I'm really excited about it. Tomorrow I intend to
buy 1000' of new 2 3/8" drill stem. Apparently it was also rejected
for technical reasons although I don't know what they were.

The first time I bought any used drill pipe the insides had drilling
mud residue on 'em. The stuff smelled god awful whenever I heated or
welded it. I probably destroyed billions of brain cells every time I
got a whiff of it.

Therefore, it is quite appealing to be working with material that's
never been down a hole.

Vernon

"Vernon" <vtuck@tucklings.com> wrote in message
news:1170217121.166581.130190@m58g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...
You picked some good pipe.

Steve

Thank you, Steve. I'm really excited about it. Tomorrow I intend to
buy 1000' of new 2 3/8" drill stem. Apparently it was also rejected
for technical reasons although I don't know what they were.

The first time I bought any used drill pipe the insides had drilling
mud residue on 'em. The stuff smelled god awful whenever I heated or
welded it. I probably destroyed billions of brain cells every time I
got a whiff of it.

Therefore, it is quite appealing to be working with material that's
never been down a hole.

Vernon


Some of the stuff that comes up a drill stem can kill you with one whiff.

Particularly hydrogen sulfide. I've been on drill rigs when the well
"kicked" (burped up gas), and it is an extreme emergency situation. Mud
flying like you can't imagine. One of my company's rigs had a blowout in
Abu Dhabi that killed 27 men in 1980. I was offered that contract, but
turned it down.

Funny how things work out.

I have seen pictures of old land rigs that had thousands of feet of
connected drill pipe shot straight up in the air, landing around the rig
like spaghetti that weighed about 20# per foot. And one foot of it would
kill you.


Steve

Had just come on location, and was up in the derrick getting ready to
pull a wet string for a tool change..
Gunner

On Jan 31, 11:47 am, Gunner <gun...@lightspeed.net> wrote:

Had just come on location, and was up in the derrick getting ready to
pull a wet string for a tool change..
Gunner

.... and a grande time was had by all. I used to work on deep sea
seismic survey vessels (who do you think told you where to drill??).
I would define that "profession" as hours, days, weeks, and months of
mind shriveling boredom punctuated by moments of stark terror".

I used to think of those boats as "floating combo debtors' prisons and
detox centers".

V