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Science Forum Index » Engineering - Joining (Welding) Forum » Plasma cutting question (really bad looking cut) plus air qu
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| Ignoramus3975 |
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:59 am |
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Guest
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I brought the MAX 100 cutter home. Rewired for 240v, three phase. It
seems to work, kind of. One annoying thing is that it also comes with
a control with ON and OFF buttons, and the button on the torch is
disabled. But that's OK, these things normally are not hard to rewire
and the manual discusses it, so it is just a matter of looking up in
the manual.
Now, back to first question. I tried cutting some 1/8" piece of sheet metal.
The issue is that even though it cuts the sheet, it makes a very
uneven cut, lots of dross etc.
A note must be made that the torch is equipped with VERY worn
consumables for 100A cutting. I was cutting at, at most, 30A.
So. Could it be because the cutter is bad, could it be because of the
operator (me), or could it be that I need consumables for under 40A
cutting. I am sure that most of my cutting will be under 40A. I do not
have enough juice in my home circuit to cut at 100A.
Second question concerns quality of air. I have a refrigerated air
dryer with a filter attached (and its own outlet). HOWEVER, I also use air tools
that I plug into another air outlet, which is lubricated. So
conceivably there is some oil in the hose. Is that too bad? Do I need
a separate hose for cutting, or can I simply remember to plug my one
hose into proper outlet depending on application?
thanks
i |
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| Robert Ball |
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:17 am |
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Bad consumables will affect all cuts, regardless of power setting. Oil
in the hose will mess up the arc; use a blowgun and give a blast of air
for 15 seconds onto a clean white cloth (spare handkerchief?) to check
for oil (or moisture for those of us without refrigerated dryer).
Ignoramus3975 wrote:
Quote: I brought the MAX 100 cutter home. Rewired for 240v, three phase. It
seems to work, kind of. One annoying thing is that it also comes with
a control with ON and OFF buttons, and the button on the torch is
disabled. But that's OK, these things normally are not hard to rewire
and the manual discusses it, so it is just a matter of looking up in
the manual.
Now, back to first question. I tried cutting some 1/8" piece of sheet metal.
The issue is that even though it cuts the sheet, it makes a very
uneven cut, lots of dross etc.
A note must be made that the torch is equipped with VERY worn
consumables for 100A cutting. I was cutting at, at most, 30A.
So. Could it be because the cutter is bad, could it be because of the
operator (me), or could it be that I need consumables for under 40A
cutting. I am sure that most of my cutting will be under 40A. I do not
have enough juice in my home circuit to cut at 100A.
Second question concerns quality of air. I have a refrigerated air
dryer with a filter attached (and its own outlet). HOWEVER, I also use air tools
that I plug into another air outlet, which is lubricated. So
conceivably there is some oil in the hose. Is that too bad? Do I need
a separate hose for cutting, or can I simply remember to plug my one
hose into proper outlet depending on application?
thanks
i
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| Pete C. |
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:51 am |
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Ignoramus3975 wrote:
Quote:
I brought the MAX 100 cutter home. Rewired for 240v, three phase. It
seems to work, kind of. One annoying thing is that it also comes with
a control with ON and OFF buttons, and the button on the torch is
disabled. But that's OK, these things normally are not hard to rewire
and the manual discusses it, so it is just a matter of looking up in
the manual.
Now, back to first question. I tried cutting some 1/8" piece of sheet metal.
The issue is that even though it cuts the sheet, it makes a very
uneven cut, lots of dross etc.
A note must be made that the torch is equipped with VERY worn
consumables for 100A cutting. I was cutting at, at most, 30A.
So. Could it be because the cutter is bad, could it be because of the
operator (me), or could it be that I need consumables for under 40A
cutting. I am sure that most of my cutting will be under 40A. I do not
have enough juice in my home circuit to cut at 100A.
Second question concerns quality of air. I have a refrigerated air
dryer with a filter attached (and its own outlet). HOWEVER, I also use air tools
that I plug into another air outlet, which is lubricated. So
conceivably there is some oil in the hose. Is that too bad? Do I need
a separate hose for cutting, or can I simply remember to plug my one
hose into proper outlet depending on application?
thanks
i
Not sure why you have a lubed air port and get oil in your hoses. Unless
you are an industrial production shop, just putting a few drops of oil
into each air tool before you use them will be just fine and keep your
air lines clean.
Any contaminants in the air will affect the plasma and you should have
extra filters installed directly on the input to the plasma cutter to
help protect it. The Powermax 1000 I got comes standard with a filter on
the inlet as an extra safeguard and the manual makes it clear there
should be additional filtering before it in your air system.
One question is on the gas input(s) to the plasma cutter, I noticed the
Max200 is listed as an entry level oxy plasma cutter and uses a dual gas
configuration. I didn't look at the archived Max100 manuals to see if it
is also a dual gas unit. It appears that air/air is one of the options,
but that may require specific consumables and configuration.
Pete C. |
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| Ignoramus26157 |
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 11:33 am |
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On Tue, 09 Jan 2007 21:17:25 -0800, Robert Ball <rwballca@comcast.net> wrote:
Quote: Bad consumables will affect all cuts, regardless of power setting. Oil
in the hose will mess up the arc; use a blowgun and give a blast of air
for 15 seconds onto a clean white cloth (spare handkerchief?) to check
for oil (or moisture for those of us without refrigerated dryer).
Thank you. I will order new consumables.
i
Quote: Ignoramus3975 wrote:
I brought the MAX 100 cutter home. Rewired for 240v, three phase. It
seems to work, kind of. One annoying thing is that it also comes with
a control with ON and OFF buttons, and the button on the torch is
disabled. But that's OK, these things normally are not hard to rewire
and the manual discusses it, so it is just a matter of looking up in
the manual.
Now, back to first question. I tried cutting some 1/8" piece of sheet metal.
The issue is that even though it cuts the sheet, it makes a very
uneven cut, lots of dross etc.
A note must be made that the torch is equipped with VERY worn
consumables for 100A cutting. I was cutting at, at most, 30A.
So. Could it be because the cutter is bad, could it be because of the
operator (me), or could it be that I need consumables for under 40A
cutting. I am sure that most of my cutting will be under 40A. I do not
have enough juice in my home circuit to cut at 100A.
Second question concerns quality of air. I have a refrigerated air
dryer with a filter attached (and its own outlet). HOWEVER, I also use air tools
that I plug into another air outlet, which is lubricated. So
conceivably there is some oil in the hose. Is that too bad? Do I need
a separate hose for cutting, or can I simply remember to plug my one
hose into proper outlet depending on application?
thanks
i
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| Ignoramus26157 |
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 11:35 am |
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On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:51:01 GMT, Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote:
Quote: Not sure why you have a lubed air port and get oil in your hoses. Unless
you are an industrial production shop, just putting a few drops of oil
into each air tool before you use them will be just fine and keep your
air lines clean.
Any contaminants in the air will affect the plasma and you should have
extra filters installed directly on the input to the plasma cutter to
help protect it. The Powermax 1000 I got comes standard with a filter on
the inlet as an extra safeguard and the manual makes it clear there
should be additional filtering before it in your air system.
OK... I will make sure to use all the proper filtering... There is
indeed a filter/regulator on this thing. I need to plumb it properly.
Quote: One question is on the gas input(s) to the plasma cutter, I noticed the
Max200 is listed as an entry level oxy plasma cutter and uses a dual gas
configuration. I didn't look at the archived Max100 manuals to see if it
is also a dual gas unit. It appears that air/air is one of the options,
but that may require specific consumables and configuration.
Air/air is the main option on this cutter. Nitrogen is also possible,
not that I will use it. I'll make sure to get good consumables, today,
from Mittler Supply.
i |
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| Martin H. Eastburn |
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:33 pm |
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Guest
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Very likely you are cutting to slow. When slow the beam eats at the sides
and more dross due to wider kerf. If water or moisture in the air it cools
the dross and keeps from blowing away. your air might not be high enough,
you set the value when the torch is using air, not when in the off condition.
If the hole in the consumable is oval or odd shaped - or the source is used
up and you are using copper as a source - anything bad can happen.
To get straight lines clamp down a L to the steel and cut down the bend.
It can be a ornate wood slab and you trace around it.
Just remember the electron beam is very hot and will burn holes in rock or
explode cement.
cutting 11 ga is easy enough but expect dross on steel, more on SS.
AL is least, Copper is most. Heat conduction of the base metal is
the worst... SS gives you chrome molecules and they are tough!
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
Ignoramus3975 wrote:
Quote: I brought the MAX 100 cutter home. Rewired for 240v, three phase. It
seems to work, kind of. One annoying thing is that it also comes with
a control with ON and OFF buttons, and the button on the torch is
disabled. But that's OK, these things normally are not hard to rewire
and the manual discusses it, so it is just a matter of looking up in
the manual.
Now, back to first question. I tried cutting some 1/8" piece of sheet metal.
The issue is that even though it cuts the sheet, it makes a very
uneven cut, lots of dross etc.
A note must be made that the torch is equipped with VERY worn
consumables for 100A cutting. I was cutting at, at most, 30A.
So. Could it be because the cutter is bad, could it be because of the
operator (me), or could it be that I need consumables for under 40A
cutting. I am sure that most of my cutting will be under 40A. I do not
have enough juice in my home circuit to cut at 100A.
Second question concerns quality of air. I have a refrigerated air
dryer with a filter attached (and its own outlet). HOWEVER, I also use air tools
that I plug into another air outlet, which is lubricated. So
conceivably there is some oil in the hose. Is that too bad? Do I need
a separate hose for cutting, or can I simply remember to plug my one
hose into proper outlet depending on application?
thanks
i
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| Ed ke6bnl |
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:06 pm |
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Guest
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my little understanding is that, to cut 1/4 or .25 you will need about
25 amp in that case to cut 1/5 or .125 you would be best to use about
15 amp if you are using much more then thye speed will have to be
increased a quite abit. On my unit it says to purge the air for a few
min. to get out any moisture that maybe in the lines. The ideal set up
is an air dryer b4 the input of the machine. Ed ke6bnl
Ignoramus3975 wrote:
Quote: I brought the MAX 100 cutter home. Rewired for 240v, three phase. It
seems to work, kind of. One annoying thing is that it also comes with
a control with ON and OFF buttons, and the button on the torch is
disabled. But that's OK, these things normally are not hard to rewire
and the manual discusses it, so it is just a matter of looking up in
the manual.
Now, back to first question. I tried cutting some 1/8" piece of sheet metal.
The issue is that even though it cuts the sheet, it makes a very
uneven cut, lots of dross etc.
A note must be made that the torch is equipped with VERY worn
consumables for 100A cutting. I was cutting at, at most, 30A.
So. Could it be because the cutter is bad, could it be because of the
operator (me), or could it be that I need consumables for under 40A
cutting. I am sure that most of my cutting will be under 40A. I do not
have enough juice in my home circuit to cut at 100A.
Second question concerns quality of air. I have a refrigerated air
dryer with a filter attached (and its own outlet). HOWEVER, I also use air tools
that I plug into another air outlet, which is lubricated. So
conceivably there is some oil in the hose. Is that too bad? Do I need
a separate hose for cutting, or can I simply remember to plug my one
hose into proper outlet depending on application?
thanks
i |
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| Potblak |
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:42 pm |
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Guest
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All comments re air quality etc are good, but,
BEFORE you spend money on new consumables, strip your torch so you can see
the electrode mounting post and (preferably with an accurate measuring tool
like vernier calipers) check that the torch parts are still all concentric.
If a torch has previously been overheated due to abuse or a faulty cooling
timer, the concentricity may have been compromised and from that time
onwards, the toch will cut off centre and rip through consumables.
The only solution is a new torch head.
Here's hoping this is not your problem, but better to check.
"Ignoramus26157" <ignoramus26157@NOSPAM.26157.invalid> wrote in message
news:g7SdnXjv_48kmjjYnZ2dnUVZ_u3inZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote: On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 14:51:01 GMT, Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote:
Not sure why you have a lubed air port and get oil in your hoses. Unless
you are an industrial production shop, just putting a few drops of oil
into each air tool before you use them will be just fine and keep your
air lines clean.
Any contaminants in the air will affect the plasma and you should have
extra filters installed directly on the input to the plasma cutter to
help protect it. The Powermax 1000 I got comes standard with a filter on
the inlet as an extra safeguard and the manual makes it clear there
should be additional filtering before it in your air system.
OK... I will make sure to use all the proper filtering... There is
indeed a filter/regulator on this thing. I need to plumb it properly.
One question is on the gas input(s) to the plasma cutter, I noticed the
Max200 is listed as an entry level oxy plasma cutter and uses a dual gas
configuration. I didn't look at the archived Max100 manuals to see if it
is also a dual gas unit. It appears that air/air is one of the options,
but that may require specific consumables and configuration.
Air/air is the main option on this cutter. Nitrogen is also possible,
not that I will use it. I'll make sure to get good consumables, today,
from Mittler Supply.
i |
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| Ignoramus16482 |
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 5:48 pm |
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Guest
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On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 08:42:24 +1100, Potblak <Invalid@Invalid.net> wrote:
Quote: All comments re air quality etc are good, but,
BEFORE you spend money on new consumables, strip your torch so you can see
the electrode mounting post and (preferably with an accurate measuring tool
like vernier calipers) check that the torch parts are still all concentric.
If a torch has previously been overheated due to abuse or a faulty cooling
timer, the concentricity may have been compromised and from that time
onwards, the toch will cut off centre and rip through consumables.
The only solution is a new torch head.
Here's hoping this is not your problem, but better to check.
It seemed easy to unscrew and everything looked worn, but on center. I
will make sure that I get good, clean, dry air and that I also use the
filter that is mounted on the cutter. I placed an order for hypertherm
consumables today and hope to get them in a few days, and to be done
with air plumbing by that time.
i |
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