During the winter, the chickens stay in one spot, where the theory is that
the compost under the wire floor of the coop will generate heat to keep
them warm. Don't know how much heat this actually makes.

I have a setup similar to yours, but it is only partially roofed. This is
because one of the main purposes of my setup is to create
garden beds. So, during the warm months the chicken house with
attached run will be in one spot for 6-8 weeks. If it rains, I add
peat moss, leaves, or feed sacks if I don't have peat moss or leaves.
The chickens work all this in to make rich dirt. IMO, letting it get
wet makes the dirt better.

"Amy Blankenship" <Amy_nospam@magnoliamultimedia.com> wrote in message
news:_mxih.6948$U12.5209@bignews1.bellsouth.net...


During the winter, the chickens stay in one spot, where the theory is
that the compost under the wire floor of the coop will generate heat to
keep them warm. Don't know how much heat this actually makes.

We thought fortnightly was often enough to clean our Eglu, which has a
wire floor and removable tray. Last time Spouse did it the droppings tray
had a lot of small (unidentifiable by us) maggots in it

Amy Blankenship wrote:

I have a setup similar to yours, but it is only partially roofed. This is
because one of the main purposes of my setup is to create
garden beds. So, during the warm months the chicken house with
attached run will be in one spot for 6-8 weeks. If it rains, I add
peat moss, leaves, or feed sacks if I don't have peat moss or leaves.
The chickens work all this in to make rich dirt. IMO, letting it get
wet makes the dirt better.

As this is a global group -- a rider to this must be that it depends on
how wet wet is !!!

snip another interesting setup -- again pretty high maintenance but works
well when managed well

"Jill" <news@NOSPAMkintaline.co.uk> wrote in message
news:458aabe2$0$8728$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...
Amy Blankenship wrote:

I have a setup similar to yours, but it is only partially roofed.
This is because one of the main purposes of my setup is to create
garden beds. So, during the warm months the chicken house with
attached run will be in one spot for 6-8 weeks. If it rains, I add
peat moss, leaves, or feed sacks if I don't have peat moss or
leaves. The chickens work all this in to make rich dirt. IMO,
letting it get wet makes the dirt better.

As this is a global group -- a rider to this must be that it depends
on how wet wet is !!!

http://co.harrison.ms.us/weather/. It's been raining since 8 pm last
night (about 12 hours now).

snip another interesting setup -- again pretty high maintenance but
works well when managed well

It takes about 20 minutes a day when I don't let them out, but that
also includes the other 4 chickens with a different setup and caring
for the goat. Then the occasional leaf raking foray. The advantage
of the setup is the chickens get used to being herded around a lot,
so they're pretty easy to handle.

Amy Blankenship wrote:
"Jill" <news@NOSPAMkintaline.co.uk> wrote in message
news:458aabe2$0$8728$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...
Amy Blankenship wrote:

I have a setup similar to yours, but it is only partially roofed.
This is because one of the main purposes of my setup is to create
garden beds. So, during the warm months the chicken house with
attached run will be in one spot for 6-8 weeks. If it rains, I add
peat moss, leaves, or feed sacks if I don't have peat moss or
leaves. The chickens work all this in to make rich dirt. IMO,
letting it get wet makes the dirt better.

As this is a global group -- a rider to this must be that it depends
on how wet wet is !!!

http://co.harrison.ms.us/weather/. It's been raining since 8 pm last
night (about 12 hours now).

Yearly rain 12 inches

Ours is 6 feet !!
The OP is drier but will be a LOT higher than 12 inches in a year.

Your great system applied here would create mud, not nice soil
unfortunately

snip another interesting setup -- again pretty high maintenance but
works well when managed well

It takes about 20 minutes a day when I don't let them out, but that
also includes the other 4 chickens with a different setup and caring
for the goat. Then the occasional leaf raking foray. The advantage
of the setup is the chickens get used to being herded around a lot,
so they're pretty easy to handle.


I was thinking of collecting the leaves, peat moss, moving, birds in,
birds out, sorting the veggies, etc.

It needs care and skill to know when to move, when to add, what to add
etc. without creating a nasty mess

If the OP was looking for the simplest system for a novice it may not be
so easy.

The backyard free range system folks here tend to work with if there are
no foxes etc is to open the door in the morning, water and check feed,
collect eggs later, shut in at night. Muck out as necessary.

We thought fortnightly was often enough to clean our Eglu, which has a
wire floor and removable tray. Last time Spouse did it the droppings tray
had a lot of small (unidentifiable by us) maggots in it :-(

Maggots are welcome.

When the chickens get out to forage, at least 4-5 go under the house to
scratch around in the compost. This is a great way to aerate it, and a
good source of protein. It makes a bit of extra work to rake the leaves
back under there, but it's no biggie. I've been thinking about adding
vermiculture down there to make it official. Anyone out there with a bin
of red wigglers under their chickens?

I've never seen an Eglu in person, but it looks rather small and enclosed.

Our chicken coop was built more for maximum ventilation than warmth.

I'd be worried only cleaning something that air tight looking every two
weeks that the ammonia would build up.

If my coop gets that kind of smell, I add more pecan leaves.

-Amy

"Amy Blankenship" <Amy_nospam@magnoliamultimedia.com> wrote in message
news:Fnyih.4796$%e7.3379@bignews2.bellsouth.net...


We thought fortnightly was often enough to clean our Eglu, which has a
wire floor and removable tray. Last time Spouse did it the droppings
tray had a lot of small (unidentifiable by us) maggots in it :-(

Maggots are welcome.

Not in the coop :-(

When the chickens get out to forage, at least 4-5 go under the house to
scratch around in the compost. This is a great way to aerate it, and a
good source of protein. It makes a bit of extra work to rake the leaves
back under there, but it's no biggie. I've been thinking about adding
vermiculture down there to make it official. Anyone out there with a bin
of red wigglers under their chickens?

These weren't worms, they were maggots - some kind of insect larvae. Hens
will eat some maggots but not when they can't reach them. The maggots
would metamorphose into insects of some kind and we didn't want that.

I've never seen an Eglu in person, but it looks rather small and
enclosed.

Not at all - as long as it's not overcrowded - the same applies to any
size of coop. It's designed for back garden chicken husbandry, people who
don't want to support the battery egg production industry. It's
recommended for not more than three full size chickens, we only have
bantams and only two roost in there.

Our chicken coop was built more for maximum ventilation than warmth.

The Eglu has both ventilation and insulation.

I'd be worried only cleaning something that air tight looking every two
weeks that the ammonia would build up.

LOL! It's not airtight and the debris falls through slats to a removable
tray below - which can be removed without disturbing the rest of the
structure.

If my coop gets that kind of smell, I add more pecan leaves.

We've never, ever, had any ammoniacal smell from any of our chicken
houses.

The Eglu is splendid chicken housing for its purpose. It's not intended
for commercial husbandry and it wouldn't be suitable. It's easy to clean
inside and out, needs no other maintenance and the chickens take to it
immediately. The only drawback is the cost but since it's a one-off (i.e.
no repair bills ever) it's good value.

And I'm not easy to please, as Jill will tell you

We thought fortnightly was often enough to clean our Eglu, which has a
wire floor and removable tray. Last time Spouse did it the droppings
tray had a lot of small (unidentifiable by us) maggots in it :-(

Maggots are welcome.

Not in the coop :-(

When the chickens get out to forage, at least 4-5 go under the house to
scratch around in the compost. This is a great way to aerate it, and a
good source of protein. It makes a bit of extra work to rake the leaves
back under there, but it's no biggie. I've been thinking about adding
vermiculture down there to make it official. Anyone out there with a
bin of red wigglers under their chickens?

These weren't worms, they were maggots - some kind of insect larvae. Hens
will eat some maggots but not when they can't reach them. The maggots
would metamorphose into insects of some kind and we didn't want that.

Yes, I'm aware of that. But chickens love both maggots and insects of
most kinds

I've never seen an Eglu in person, but it looks rather small and
enclosed.

Not at all - as long as it's not overcrowded - the same applies to any
size of coop. It's designed for back garden chicken husbandry, people who
don't want to support the battery egg production industry. It's
recommended for not more than three full size chickens, we only have
bantams and only two roost in there.

Our chicken coop was built more for maximum ventilation than warmth.

The Eglu has both ventilation and insulation.

I'd be worried only cleaning something that air tight looking every two
weeks that the ammonia would build up.

LOL! It's not airtight and the debris falls through slats to a removable
tray below - which can be removed without disturbing the rest of the
structure.

Since the whole point of the way I keep my chickens is to deposit organic
matter in situ, taking it away doesn't make any sense. Your goals are
different than mine.

If my coop gets that kind of smell, I add more pecan leaves.

We've never, ever, had any ammoniacal smell from any of our chicken
houses.

You don't deliberately put your chickens on top of their own waste for
weeks, either. And you don't have 23 in one spot.

The Eglu is splendid chicken housing for its purpose. It's not intended
for commercial husbandry and it wouldn't be suitable. It's easy to clean
inside and out, needs no other maintenance and the chickens take to it
immediately. The only drawback is the cost but since it's a one-off
(i.e. no repair bills ever) it's good value.

If you don't have 27 chickens. You'd need an awful lot for that.

"Amy Blankenship" <Amy_nospam@magnoliamultimedia.com> wrote in message
news:hqDih.4628$AY1.315@bignews5.bellsouth.net...



We thought fortnightly was often enough to clean our Eglu, which has a
wire floor and removable tray. Last time Spouse did it the droppings
tray had a lot of small (unidentifiable by us) maggots in it :-(

Maggots are welcome.

Not in the coop :-(

When the chickens get out to forage, at least 4-5 go under the house to
scratch around in the compost. This is a great way to aerate it, and a
good source of protein. It makes a bit of extra work to rake the
leaves back under there, but it's no biggie. I've been thinking about
adding vermiculture down there to make it official. Anyone out there
with a bin of red wigglers under their chickens?

These weren't worms, they were maggots - some kind of insect larvae.
Hens will eat some maggots but not when they can't reach them. The
maggots would metamorphose into insects of some kind and we didn't want
that.

Yes, I'm aware of that. But chickens love both maggots and insects of
most kinds

But not all. I know a bit about insects but we couldn't work out what
these were, the chickens certainly weren't interested in them, as I said.

I've never seen an Eglu in person, but it looks rather small and
enclosed.

Not at all - as long as it's not overcrowded - the same applies to any
size of coop. It's designed for back garden chicken husbandry, people
who don't want to support the battery egg production industry. It's
recommended for not more than three full size chickens, we only have
bantams and only two roost in there.

Our chicken coop was built more for maximum ventilation than warmth.

The Eglu has both ventilation and insulation.

I'd be worried only cleaning something that air tight looking every two
weeks that the ammonia would build up.

LOL! It's not airtight and the debris falls through slats to a removable
tray below - which can be removed without disturbing the rest of the
structure.

Since the whole point of the way I keep my chickens is to deposit organic
matter in situ, taking it away doesn't make any sense. Your goals are
different than mine.

They're probably the same, I suspect that my scale is different from
yours.

Our poultry fertilise the ground during the day when they're ranging round
the garden. The night-time droppings are removed and added to the compost
bin. It works well.

What's more, at the moment the Eglu is placed so that the chickens using
it have to go into the greenhouse when they get up in the morning. the gh
door is opened when we get up, if they want to go out into the garden they
do, if the weather is too bad they stay inside and scratch in (and
fertilise) the borders for the next crops. It's a perfect system, I get
the best of all worlds in an urban back garden.

If my coop gets that kind of smell, I add more pecan leaves.

We've never, ever, had any ammoniacal smell from any of our chicken
houses.

You don't deliberately put your chickens on top of their own waste for
weeks, either. And you don't have 23 in one spot.

I wouldn't do that.

The Eglu is splendid chicken housing for its purpose. It's not intended
for commercial husbandry and it wouldn't be suitable. It's easy to clean
inside and out, needs no other maintenance and the chickens take to it
immediately. The only drawback is the cost but since it's a one-off
(i.e. no repair bills ever) it's good value.

If you don't have 27 chickens. You'd need an awful lot for that.

It's not intended for that sort of number, as I explained. That number of
fowl would also be far too many for our urban garden.

"Jill" <news@NOSPAMkintaline.co.uk> wrote in message
news:458abbbd$0$8752$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...
Amy Blankenship wrote:
"Jill" <news@NOSPAMkintaline.co.uk> wrote in message
news:458aabe2$0$8728$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...
Amy Blankenship wrote:

I have a setup similar to yours, but it is only partially roofed.
This is because one of the main purposes of my setup is to create
garden beds. So, during the warm months the chicken house with
attached run will be in one spot for 6-8 weeks. If it rains, I add
peat moss, leaves, or feed sacks if I don't have peat moss or
leaves. The chickens work all this in to make rich dirt. IMO,
letting it get wet makes the dirt better.

As this is a global group -- a rider to this must be that it depends
on how wet wet is !!!

http://co.harrison.ms.us/weather/. It's been raining since 8 pm last
night (about 12 hours now).

Yearly rain 12 inches

I don't think that's actually accurate, but it's the only aggregate I
could find. Here's something better
http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/39574.

If you add all those up, it is closer to 3 feet than 1.

Ours is 6 feet !!
The OP is drier but will be a LOT higher than 12 inches in a year.

Your great system applied here would create mud, not nice soil
unfortunately

I'm not so sure. The way it starts out is with turf. After the first
week, the grass is mostly gone. I usually go out and buy a bale of peat
moss at that point. At the first rain, I throw down a couple of cubic
feet. This stabilizes the soil so it can still get mucky, but isn't a
morass. I'll usually put a couple of feed sacks down near the door so I
can get in and out without slipping.

As I clean waste hay from the goat, I throw that in. Chickens love that,
since they seem to cut it here with the seed heads on. Earlier this year
I had to get creative, because we had no leaves (Katrina ate them all last
year), but just as the pen started to get stinky in this current location,
I looked around and saw the leaves needed raking. We have several large
pecan trees, so they cover the yard in leaves.

With two layers of leaves on top of the peat moss/feed sacks/hay, it's
very stable in there to walk on even after 12 straight hours of rain. I
put down more feed sacks anyway, because I took them out there out of
habit, and the chickens like to shred them.

snip another interesting setup -- again pretty high maintenance but
works well when managed well

It takes about 20 minutes a day when I don't let them out, but that
also includes the other 4 chickens with a different setup and caring
for the goat. Then the occasional leaf raking foray. The advantage
of the setup is the chickens get used to being herded around a lot,
so they're pretty easy to handle.


I was thinking of collecting the leaves, peat moss, moving, birds in,
birds out, sorting the veggies, etc.

Leaves really need to be collected anyway. And with a tarp and a rake,
you can gather enough to fill the chickie pen in about 10 minutes. I put
in less after the first layer.

I put extra carbon under the house in the form of cardboard, etc.

All of this just sort of happens as a result of things that need to get
done anyway. For instance, I already save kitchen scraps for compost.
The chicken edible ones have their own pile. It was easier to leave the
mustard greens and let them get big than pull them (the roots make
everything dirty) and the big leaves protected the soil and prevented
weeds.

It's easier to clean the pen if the birds go out in their little
pasture--that way they're not under foot. It is kind of a pain when half
the flock decides to hop the fence, but then that's one of their times to
get completely free and it's not a big deal.

It needs care and skill to know when to move, when to add, what to add
etc. without creating a nasty mess

That's a nose thing. If it's smelly, it needs more carbon. Just like
compost. If the feather footed chickens have muck matted in their feet, I
need to do something to dry it out.

If the OP was looking for the simplest system for a novice it may not be
so easy.

These are my first chickens. But the system is designed as much to create
the garden beds as care for the chickens. Incidentally, we have heavy
clay soil here, but chicken dirt is like powdered (confectioner's) sugar.

The backyard free range system folks here tend to work with if there are
no foxes etc is to open the door in the morning, water and check feed,
collect eggs later, shut in at night. Muck out as necessary. ;)

Must be nice. We have one goat because of dog predation.

-Amy
Thanks all for the advise,i will be posting more questions soon maybe?i am
going to put together house/run over the holiday period,still planning!
cheers keith

Help me i have a couple chickens there all diffrent kinds but my
proublm is my bluff orphingting.
She waits tell the other chickens have layed there eggs then she sneaks
into the chicken house
and she peckes open the eggs and eats them. She also eats her own eggs
too. The local farm store said to give them this shell stuff so i did
and they wont eat it. There free range chickens they run around on over
5 acres and only go to there cage at night to roost and during the day
when there laying eggs. Why dose she do this? I wouldnt belive it if
haddnt seen it with my own eyes.
How can i get her to stop?

I have had my chickens do the same thing. What I do with the oyster
shell is mix it with their food and while they are pecking food they
don't even know they got oyster shell.

HiddenSprings1 wrote:

I have had my chickens do the same thing. What I do with the oyster
shell is mix it with their food and while they are pecking food they
don't even know they got oyster shell.


This is not a good idea as it can badly upset the calcium balance
Any calcium supplement should be left separately for them to use as they
need
Mineral balances are surprisingly fine but birds are capable of finessing
them well themselves within their genetic ability
All layers feed should be fed in a dry hopper so its available to the birds
at all times. This means that the birds cna reticify any short fall in
nutrition from range which will vary greatly from day to dan and even more
from season to season. It also means that any subordinate hen will still get
a proper feed. It also attracts vermin and wild birds much less than scatter
feeding
Layers ration should be fed around 2 weeks before the expected start of lay
to provide the necessary nutrients for the major change in their life they
will undergo.


I like to do _some_ scatter feeding because it's like "real life" for the

I like to do _some_ scatter feeding because it's like "real life" for
the chooks, having to really look for their food.

I also like to give them scraps and garden weeds,