I'm looking for the very smallest -- panel mount -- LCD voltmeter. My
Google searches have been dissapointing. The smallest I could find is
about 2" wide.

This will be part of a 12V bicycle light system. It will mount in a
small box, probably on the handlebars. It's measurement range should be
about 8 to 20 volts.

I'm looking for the very smallest -- panel mount -- LCD voltmeter. My
Google searches have been dissapointing. The smallest I could find is
about 2" wide.

This will be part of a 12V bicycle light system. It will mount in a
small box, probably on the handlebars. It's measurement range should be
about 8 to 20 volts.

A voltmeter is not complicated. I would think that one could easily be
made in a 1/2" square.

Does anyone know of a really tiny voltmeter?

Thanks for your help.

I'm looking for the very smallest -- panel mount -- LCD voltmeter. M

A voltmeter is not complicated. I would think that one could easily be
made in a 1/2" square.

Does anyone know of a really tiny voltmeter?

Bruce W.1 wrote:
I'm looking for the very smallest -- panel mount -- LCD voltmeter. M

A voltmeter is not complicated. I would think that one could easily be
made in a 1/2" square.

Does anyone know of a really tiny voltmeter?

Why Must it be Digital,
Any number of miniature analog meters are available Surplus !
Is there any need for anything more accurate than Low Medium and High !
All you would need is the Meter Movement, a suitable range Resistor and
a tiny light bulb with perhaps a dimming resistor, for Night-time
operation. A total of 4 components. If it is only to monitor the
Generator Output, all you really need to do is to observe the brightness
of a tiny bulb wired across the output of the generator. Perhaps a 800
ohm resistor a silicon Diode and an appropriate colored LED would be
even cheaper than a light Bulb these days. You might not even need the
Silicon Diode if the Reverse Voltage rating of the LED is not exceeded.

Is this to be used to monitor the Lighting System on a Bicycle ? To
explain why the Headlight/Tail-lights are not working ?
Spend the money on a Multi Ultra Bright White LED headlight and a Multi
LED tail-light instead of a Voltmeter, and then, only a broken wire or
no output from the generator would result in no light output. The age of
the electric light bulb and broken filaments has now ended.

Yukio YANO

I'm looking for the very smallest -- panel mount -- LCD voltmeter. My
Google searches have been dissapointing. The smallest I could find is
about 2" wide.

This will be part of a 12V bicycle light system. It will mount in a
small box, probably on the handlebars. It's measurement range should be
about 8 to 20 volts.

A voltmeter is not complicated. I would think that one could easily be
made in a 1/2" square.

Does anyone know of a really tiny voltmeter?

Thanks for your help.

On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 18:45:07 GMT, "Bruce W.1"
sorry@noDirectEmail.com> wrote:

I'm looking for the very smallest -- panel mount -- LCD voltmeter. My
Google searches have been dissapointing. The smallest I could find is
about 2" wide.

This will be part of a 12V bicycle light system. It will mount in a
small box, probably on the handlebars. It's measurement range should be
about 8 to 20 volts.

A voltmeter is not complicated. I would think that one could easily be
made in a 1/2" square.

Does anyone know of a really tiny voltmeter?

Thanks for your help.

Cheap and tiny, but requiring a bit of cobbling:
Get a cheap DMM (often on sale at Harbor Freight
for under $5). These have displays about 1/2"
high and 2" long. (Hey. you have to be able to
read the display! half-inch square would be tought
unless you had really tiny digits..) Inside the case
is a big rotary range selector switch and a little
chip under a black blob. Just figure out which
connections are made for the range you want,
hot-wire those and eliminate the switch, and
install in the smaller case of your choice.

Oh, the DMMs run on 9V, but they don't draw
much juice so you can probably drop the 12V
with a simple zener circuit.

Best regards,


Bob Masta

Cheap and tiny, but requiring a bit of cobbling:
Get a cheap DMM (often on sale at Harbor Freight
for under $5). These have displays about 1/2"
high and 2" long. (Hey. you have to be able to
read the display! half-inch square would be tought
unless you had really tiny digits..) Inside the case
is a big rotary range selector switch and a little
chip under a black blob. Just figure out which
connections are made for the range you want,
hot-wire those and eliminate the switch, and
install in the smaller case of your choice.

Oh, the DMMs run on 9V, but they don't draw
much juice so you can probably drop the 12V
with a simple zener circuit.

Best regards,


Bob Masta

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Signal Generator
Science with your sound card!
===============================================

Bob Masta wrote:


Cheap and tiny, but requiring a bit of cobbling:
Get a cheap DMM (often on sale at Harbor Freight
for under $5). These have displays about 1/2"
high and 2" long. (Hey. you have to be able to
read the display! half-inch square would be tought
unless you had really tiny digits..) Inside the case
is a big rotary range selector switch and a little
chip under a black blob. Just figure out which
connections are made for the range you want,
hot-wire those and eliminate the switch, and install in the smaller case
of your choice.

Oh, the DMMs run on 9V, but they don't draw
much juice so you can probably drop the 12V
with a simple zener circuit.

Best regards,


Bob Masta
D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Signal Generator
Science with your sound card!
===============================================

That's beginning to look like a good option. I really don't want to get
into programming a pic chip. This is getting pretty complicated anyway.
Maybe I'll just fix it at 13.2 volts and call it a day, and take along my
mini RS multimeter.

There are some wonderful HID (metal halide) lights on the market but they
cost big bucks.

For tail lighting I'm using a Cateye TL-LD1000 which is red LEDs and has
its own AA batteries. This and an amber strobe (12 volts) from All
Electronics, this will run off the battery pack (12 alkaline C-cells).

I'm using alkalines because I wouln't always have the ability to charge
rechargeables, but you can always buy alkalines.

The headlights, at this time will probably be two 12 volt 10-watt MR16
bulbs (one flood, one spot). Though finding these bulbs is proving
difficult.

If you're interested, here's some controllers:
http://www.cs.indiana.edu/~willie/lvr.html
http://www.lasertagparts.com/lightbrain/index.htm
http://www.quickar.com/tkit.php?session=Rb0v0Fx5
http://www.trailheadlights.com/

You should look into a 3W Luxeon LED headlight.

I have a luxeon LED flashlight and it is much brigher than any other
flashlight that I own.. It runs on 4 AA batteries for approx 4 hours.

- Mike