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Science Forum Index » Chemistry Forum » alunimun electrolysis prevention?
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| noel |
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 11:54 pm |
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Guest
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Hello,
I'm looking to solve a problem I have with aluminum. More to the
point, I have a chevy pickup that is eating heater cores every 6
months. I have read where electric current passing in the
antifreeze/coolant is what causes this damage to the heater core. This
current is present, accord to one person, by a bad ground on the
engine. I'm not sure if the heater core itself is mounted to metal, or
comes in contact with any other metal. I'm assuming for now that the
heater core is in contact with metal. I assume that the poor ground is
causing the current to seek a better path. And, the the aluminum
heater core is suppling a connecting point for the current to travel
through.
My question is; If current is present in the antifreeze/coolant,
does the aluminum have to provide a pathway to complete a circuit in
order for electrolysis to occur. If the alumimun were to be
isolated/insulated from making an electrical connection, would this
stop th electrolysis? Or does one need to stop the current from being
present in the antifreeze/coolant?
Your help will be greatly appreciated during a long morning drive on a
cold winter day.
Thanks |
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| Richard |
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 8:32 am |
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nakins@sbcglobal.net (noel) wrote in message news:<ed7c98dc.0401052054.68738c92@posting.google.com>...
Quote: Hello,
I'm looking to solve a problem I have with aluminum. More to the
point, I have a chevy pickup that is eating heater cores every 6
months. I have read where electric current passing in the
antifreeze/coolant is what causes this damage to the heater core.
Just out of curiosity, what does your local Chevy dealer say about this problem?
Richard |
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| hanson |
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 3:07 pm |
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"Richard" <beezoboar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9fa77d4c.0401060532.7efbd713@posting.google.com...
Quote: nakins@sbcglobal.net (noel) wrote in message
news:<ed7c98dc.0401052054.68738c92@posting.google.com>...
Quote: I'm looking to solve a problem I have with aluminum. More to the
point, I have a chevy pickup that is eating heater cores every 6
months. I have read where electric current passing in the
antifreeze/coolant is what causes this damage to the heater core.
Just out of curiosity, what does your local Chevy dealer say
about this problem?
Richard
Richard's right. There were similar Alu corrosion problems in
the Alu-engine block that the El Dorado Cadillac Diesels used.
GM sold me consequently "pills" consisting of Soda ash and
Turmeric (Yes, the spice turmeric), which prevented corrosion
pretty well. Check with a GM dealer. They still may have it.
It's cheap. 2-3 bucks and it will last for 6 months/ 2 pills.
For details do google: Turmeric + corrosion. 353 hits
If you are really a fan for restoring antique cars, then bring
your heater cores to a plater and have him put a 1-2 mil thick
ELECTROLESS NICKEL palte onto it. This should last you ~10 years.
It will however will cost you $100-200.-min.
Good luck and fuck enviros!
hanson |
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| Steve Turner |
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 6:23 pm |
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nakins@sbcglobal.net (noel) wrote:
Quote: Hello,
I'm looking to solve a problem I have with aluminum. More to the
point, I have a chevy pickup that is eating heater cores every 6
months. I have read where electric current passing in the
antifreeze/coolant is what causes this damage to the heater core. This
current is present, accord to one person, by a bad ground on the
engine. I'm not sure if the heater core itself is mounted to metal, or
comes in contact with any other metal. I'm assuming for now that the
heater core is in contact with metal. I assume that the poor ground is
causing the current to seek a better path. And, the the aluminum
heater core is suppling a connecting point for the current to travel
through.
My question is; If current is present in the antifreeze/coolant,
does the aluminum have to provide a pathway to complete a circuit in
order for electrolysis to occur. If the alumimun were to be
isolated/insulated from making an electrical connection, would this
stop th electrolysis? Or does one need to stop the current from being
present in the antifreeze/coolant?
I can't see any reason why a bad ground would be rotting the heater
core, unless you have electrical devices connected to the heater core.
What seems more logical to me is that the heater core may be acting as
a sacrificial metal: i.e., it is coupled electrolytically to a less
active metal (such as iron) and serves as the cathode in the battery
(more properly, "cell") that results. In a cell of this type,
oxidation occurs at the cathode and the aluminum corrodes away as a
result. A similar situation can result with house plumbing, if
connecting copper to iron pipe. In this case the iron is the more
active metal and will become sacrificial if precautions are not taken.
The solution is to use a "dielectric junction" which isolates the two
metals. There may be a similar fix for your problem.
But Richard's question is a good one: what does the Chevy dealer say?
Steve Turner
Real address contains worldnet instead of spamnet |
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| noel |
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 7:11 pm |
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Guest
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I haven't talked to the dealer this time, yet. I doubt they know any
more then they did a year or six months ago. They replaced the first
one. I exchanged that core with them for the one that is leaking now
six months ago, and they did offer any solutions then when I asked. |
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| Repeating Rifle |
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 3:26 am |
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in article fadmvvonn4c6q5u6fut093u0rb67proesv@4ax.com, Steve Turner at
srturner1@spamnet.att.net wrote on 1/6/04 3:23 PM:
Quote: What seems more logical to me is that the heater core may be acting as
a sacrificial metal: i.e., it is coupled electrolytically to a less
active metal (such as iron) and serves as the cathode in the battery
(more properly, "cell") that results. In a cell of this type,
oxidation occurs at the cathode and the aluminum corrodes away as a
result. A similar situation can result with house plumbing, if
connecting copper to iron pipe. In this case the iron is the more
active metal and will become sacrificial if precautions are not taken.
The solution is to use a "dielectric junction" which isolates the two
metals. There may be a similar fix for your problem.
By definition, the ANODE is where OXIDATION takes place. In all likelihood,
bare aluminum will be an anode and get oxided. It is only if the anodized
aluminum becomes sealed off from the electrolyte that oxidation will stop.
In active cathodic protection, you change the anode into a cathode by make
it more negative than any other part in the electrolytic cell.
Remember, in a secondary cell, anode and cathode interchange when you go
from charge to discharge.
Bill |
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| Steve Turner |
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 6:09 pm |
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Guest
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Repeating Rifle <SalmonEgg@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Quote: By definition, the ANODE is where OXIDATION takes place. In all likelihood,
bare aluminum will be an anode and get oxided. It is only if the anodized
aluminum becomes sealed off from the electrolyte that oxidation will stop.
Mea culpa. I should have looked up how anode was defined, rather than
ASSuming something about its charge. It sure did look wrong to say
that the cathode was where oxidation was occurring, but I figured that
the cathode just HAD to be the more negative terminal...
Steve Turner
Real address contains worldnet instead of spamnet |
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| noel |
Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 11:39 pm |
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Well, I'm still looking for an answer. I stopped at the dealership and
got a new core. He (Parts Mgr.) didn't know of any solutions but
thought it was odd. The first time he had heard of it. I used to work
with him several years ago. I take him at his word.
I looked the mounting over today and couldn't see any place where it
is making a electrical connection with the body of the truck. It is
held in place by a clip which is screwed to plastic. The only place
where it might make a connection it where the tubes go through the
firewall, but it has a rubber grommet there, so I doubt that the core
is electrically connected to the rest of the truck.
I have read where a ground wire is run to the engine block from the
core. This doesn't seem right to me. It worked fine for 10 years
without it, why now?
Really though, is the core is isolated electrically from the rest of
the truck, and current is present in the coolant, how is electrolysis
taking place?
Thanks |
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| Repeating Rifle |
Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 1:26 am |
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Guest
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in article ed7c98dc.0401072039.150af147@posting.google.com, noel at
nakins@sbcglobal.net wrote on 1/7/04 8:39 PM:
Quote: Well, I'm still looking for an answer. I stopped at the dealership and
got a new core. He (Parts Mgr.) didn't know of any solutions but
thought it was odd. The first time he had heard of it. I used to work
with him several years ago. I take him at his word.
I looked the mounting over today and couldn't see any place where it
is making a electrical connection with the body of the truck. It is
held in place by a clip which is screwed to plastic. The only place
where it might make a connection it where the tubes go through the
firewall, but it has a rubber grommet there, so I doubt that the core
is electrically connected to the rest of the truck.
I have read where a ground wire is run to the engine block from the
core. This doesn't seem right to me. It worked fine for 10 years
without it, why now?
Really though, is the core is isolated electrically from the rest of
the truck, and current is present in the coolant, how is electrolysis
taking place?
Thanks
You might try connecting a voltmeter between the core and ground. If the
aluminum is an anode in a cell, it will be positive. If the voltage reads
zero, then test for resistance to ground. I don't think that scratching the
outside of the core, especially where there is some extra thickness, with a
test probe will cause a problem. The scratch by being outside of electrolyte
(coolant) should oxidize just from atmospheric oxygen.
Bill |
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| hanson |
Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 10:09 am |
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Guest
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"Repeating Rifle" <SalmonEgg@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:BC223884.4CEF%SalmonEgg@sbcglobal.net...
Quote: in article ed7c98dc.0401072039.150af147@posting.google.com, noel at
nakins@sbcglobal.net wrote on 1/7/04 8:39 PM:
Well, I'm still looking for an answer. I stopped at the dealership and
got a new core. He (Parts Mgr.) didn't know of any solutions but
thought it was odd. The first time he had heard of it.
I couldn't see any electrical connection with the body
Really though, is the core is isolated electrically from the rest of
the truck, and current is present in the coolant, how is electrolysis
taking place?
You might try connecting a voltmeter between the core and ground. If the
aluminum is an anode in a cell, it will be positive. If the voltage reads
zero, then test for resistance to ground. I don't think that scratching the
outside of the core, especially where there is some extra thickness, with a
test probe will cause a problem. The scratch by being outside of electrolyte
(coolant) should oxidize just from atmospheric oxygen.
Bill
[hanson]
I don't think that isolating/insulating the aluminum cooler from
the body is gonna help Noel Akins any.
The reason is that the cooler is made of Al-287 cast alloy which
contains a high percent of Silicon + Zinc + Copper. This alloy consists
metallurgically of crystallites that have different compositions, hence
you have WITHIN THE MATERIAL millions of teeny, active batteries,
all anodes and cathodes electrolyzing = a built-in corrosion system.
As I said in my previous post, here are you options:
1) Coat the Alu surface by dissolving a corrosion preventative like
Chromates (enviros will howl) or (Soda ash+Turmeric) in the coolant
2) Get the inside of the cooler plated with NiP or NiB = Electroless Nickel
3) Mount a more reactive, Sacrificial electrode like Magnesium onto the
cooler cover so that it reaches down into the coolant.
4) Another front to prevent corrosion is to use an ANHYDROUS coolant.
NO water in the coolant = No electrolysis = No corrosion
5) Do whatever you wish, but study the chemistry of corrosion & fuck enviros.
hanson |
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