Main Page | Report this Page
 
   
Science Forum Index  »  Chemistry Forum  »  How to cut flask neck?
Page 2 of 3    Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
Bruce Hamilton
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2003 9:03 pm
Guest
DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

Quote:
http://www.crscientific.com/boilingflasks.html

I want to trim the neck of this 100 ml flask down to the body, or as close as
is practical.

How does one cut lab glass without destroying it completley?

Depends on what you what to do later with the flask. If you plan on heating it,
then fire smoothing the cut and annealing it after would be a great idea,
assuming the flask is pyrex-type glass. It's also possible that the neck is
slightly thicker near the flask, which may make using just a small scratch on
one side less successful, as the stresses may propagate in different
directions.

I've usually used a file or glass scribe, and placed a deep scratch around the
whole perimeter where I want it crack. I then attempt to pull it apart like
a cracker, but with a slight bending moment. Sometimes I have to wrap the glass
on either side of the mark in damp cloth and gently tap the mark with a metal
object to start the crack before pulling, depending how thick the glass is.

I'd suggest practising on a some old test-tubes or flasks first. You certainly
can also cut the glass using an abrasive wheel ( Dremel Cut-off wheels etc ),
but it's tedious, and best used just to create the scratch. If you do use
powered wheels, it's a good idea to wrap the flask with a rag to absorb shocks.

Bruce Hamilton
Mike Painter
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2003 9:09 pm
Guest
I'm not sure what you are trying to say but making a drinking glass out of a
wine or in my case coke bottle with a scribe, heat and then cold required no
practice, no fancy wheels and very little time.


"Teel Adams" <coltom47@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:jFpHb.3197$d4.2205@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Quote:
Ya know, I'm going to throw something out just to be contrary. I have
an
old farm house, and the concept of a square corner, uniform studs, tape
measures or blueprints do not appear to have been invented when the house
was constructed.

So, what is the point? For much of my tile work on the kitchen and
bathroom, and I know this is the stupid and slow way to do this, I had a
homemade table saw that I got at auction, outfitted with a variety of
grinding wheels. Both synthetic ruby/saphire, corrundium? something like
that, and the diamond blade and wheel work pretty good. I even played
around with doing some glass work over the years. You'd need to have
water
cooling, make your cut close to where you wanted to be, and slowly grind
down to the position that you want. Well, it might take a number of trys
to
get the technique down.

I cut a nominal 3" square hole out of a four inch ceramic tile this way.

Oh, come to think of it, flasks are much more expensive than tiles.
"Mike Painter" <mdotpainter@att.net> wrote in message
news:iapHb.248146$Ec1.8624265@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BC13049C018058C0F0080600@news.individual.net...
http://www.crscientific.com/boilingflasks.html

I want to trim the neck of this 100 ml flask down to the body, or as
close
as
is practical.

How does one cut lab glass without destroying it completley?

A Google on bottle cutter brings a lot of hits.
http://www.glassmart.com/ebc.asp
has a kit for wine bottles and instructions.
I remember something similar from the 60's.



Jack Ferman
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2003 10:01 pm
Guest
In article <0001HW.BC131D1401861580F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net wrote:

Quote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 9:53:18 -0800, G. R. L. Cowan wrote
(in message <3FEDC70E.AEAC98FF@eagle.ca>):

Practise on some scrap.

I've got a scrap flask.

Scratch one side, wet the scratch,
apply tension and bending stress so the whole plane you want
the crack to propagate through has tension, and it is highest
at the scratch.

So just a scratch on one side of the neck with a file or such...
Wet the scratch (don't understand why, but that's not important)...
Wetness changes the surface Gibbs free energy. While spit helps there are

other liquids that do much better, old chem lab manuals might list. When
a crack probagates, two surfaces enlarge. The thermodynamic work to make
the surfaces must come from the energy in the deforming forces (earlier
nicely described) so considering the surface Gibbs free energy for
air-glass interface vs liquid-glass interface it would be advantageous to
pick the one for which G(surface) is least.




Quote:
Place the back of the neck against the edge of a table (as a fulcrum)...
"Bend" the neck against the table edge...

That's it?

Wearing some gloves, I presume, would be a good idea.

Thanks,
Jack Ferman
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2003 10:03 pm
Guest
In article <tcnruv04thi690fbcsdkilanh3o1uufdch@4ax.com>, bob
<thanatos@coldmail.nu> wrote:

Quote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 19:20:22 GMT, Bill Vajk
bill9north@hotmail.DITCHTHIS.com> wrote:

Richard Henry wrote:

"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BC13049C018058C0F0080600@news.individual.net...

http://www.crscientific.com/boilingflasks.html

I want to trim the neck of this 100 ml flask down to the body, or as close
as
is practical.

How does one cut lab glass without destroying it completley?

Craft stores used to sell a device that would score a wine bottle on the
inside so that it could be broken down into drinking glasses.

The one I have scores the outside.

Aren't the edges of the glass sharp? Do you do something to smooth
them?

Depends on your relationship with mother-in-law.
Steve Turner
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2003 11:01 pm
Guest
DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

Quote:
http://www.crscientific.com/boilingflasks.html

I want to trim the neck of this 100 ml flask down to the body, or as close as
is practical.

How does one cut lab glass without destroying it completley?

Be aware that making a square cut on glass tubing become exponentially
more difficult as the diameter of the tubing increases. I would
personally not attempt the "scratch-then-bend-and-pull" method for
anything larger than about 1 cm diameter (unless I was willing to put
up with a lot of trashed pieces).

A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.

Other than that, the best method that I've seen for cutting
large-diameter tubing starts with a small scratch which is then
propagated as a crack, using thermal expansion, around the diameter of
the tubing. The thermal expansion can be induced with a hot wire, as
others have described, or by other hot objects. The time-honored
glassblower's trick is to heat a glass rod until molten, then press
the molten blob against one end of the scratch. This will cause a
crack to begin, and one can then lead the crack around the diameter by
successive applications of the hot glass rod. This is easier to do
than to describe. Done properly it works quite well.

Steve Turner

Real address contains worldnet instead of spamnet
Josh Halpern
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2003 11:26 pm
Guest
Steve Turner wrote:

Quote:
DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:



http://www.crscientific.com/boilingflasks.html

I want to trim the neck of this 100 ml flask down to the body, or as close as
is practical.

How does one cut lab glass without destroying it completley?



Be aware that making a square cut on glass tubing become exponentially
more difficult as the diameter of the tubing increases. I would
personally not attempt the "scratch-then-bend-and-pull" method for
anything larger than about 1 cm diameter (unless I was willing to put
up with a lot of trashed pieces).

A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.

Other than that, the best method that I've seen for cutting
large-diameter tubing starts with a small scratch which is then
propagated as a crack, using thermal expansion, around the diameter of
the tubing. The thermal expansion can be induced with a hot wire, as
others have described, or by other hot objects. The time-honored
glassblower's trick is to heat a glass rod until molten, then press
the molten blob against one end of the scratch. This will cause a
crack to begin, and one can then lead the crack around the diameter by
successive applications of the hot glass rod. This is easier to do
than to describe. Done properly it works quite well.


Putting a bit of spit (not water) on top of the scratch before applying
the molten glass rod helps a lot (also learned from glassblowers). You
also have to put the rod to the glass quickly and press firmly to
transfer the maximum heat.

josh halpern

Quote:

Steve Turner

Real address contains worldnet instead of spamnet

Pelerin Galimatias
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 12:09 am
Guest
In article <0001HW.BC13049C018058C0F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net says...
Quote:

http://www.crscientific.com/boilingflasks.html

I want to trim the neck of this 100 ml flask down to the body, or as close as
is practical.

How does one cut lab glass without destroying it completley?

Thanks,
--
DaveC

Diamond saw or hot wire loop would do it.

--
0000001000000100000110001000011010001111110010111011101000010000
DaveC
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 12:17 am
Guest
On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 20:01:07 -0800, Steve Turner wrote
(in message <7khsuv0t5nc6heeguaruehq28orb3jci5p@4ax.com>):

Quote:
A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.

Where in a a city would I look for a business that has access to a diamond
saw? Jewelers? Help me out, here...

Thanks,
--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group
Bruce Hamilton
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 3:26 am
Guest
DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:
Quote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 20:01:07 -0800, Steve Turner wrote
(in message <7khsuv0t5nc6heeguaruehq28orb3jci5p@4ax.com>):
A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.

Where in a a city would I look for a business that has access to a diamond
saw? Jewelers? Help me out, here...

Actually almost all tilers here tend to use small diamond saws now, as the
blades are quite cheap ( you can buy them to go on handheld angle grinders for
about $20 here ). Other places could be anybody making granite benchtops or
grave headstones, or working with glass - a glazier, glassblower ( scientific
ones are usually available at educational institutions ).

The hardest part would be to ensure the flask stays locked in place and the
vibrations from cutting the flask neck don't have the crack propagating in
the wrong direction. If the flask is fairly new, the boiling flask neck may be
quite thin-walled except at the top end and bulb.

I've never tried the hot wire technique on pyrex glass, but suspect it's not as
easy as when used with soda lime glass, such as wine bottles.

Bruce Hamilton
Steve Turner
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 10:14 am
Guest
DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

Quote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 20:01:07 -0800, Steve Turner wrote
(in message <7khsuv0t5nc6heeguaruehq28orb3jci5p@4ax.com>):

A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.

Where in a a city would I look for a business that has access to a diamond
saw? Jewelers? Help me out, here...

Some large cities and even some not-so-large cities will have a
scientific glassblowing business. Look in the yellow pages. If your
town has a college or university, that would be an excellent place to
try. As Bruce Hamilton mentioned, you may need to fashion some sort
of rig to hold the flask within the carriage. The carriage rig itself
may work; they're designed to hold irregular pieces.

Have you considered using a flask blank? These are available from
large scientific glassware fabrication houses (such as Ace/Kontes or
Labglass) and consist of a flask with a very short, plain neck. See
http://www.aceglass.com/html/products/6871.html for an example.

Steve Turner

Real address contains worldnet instead of spamnet
Josh Halpern
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 2:29 pm
Guest
DaveC wrote:

Quote:
On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 20:01:07 -0800, Steve Turner wrote
(in message <7khsuv0t5nc6heeguaruehq28orb3jci5p@4ax.com>):



A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.



Where in a a city would I look for a business that has access to a diamond
saw? Jewelers? Help me out, here...


Google any nearby college or university chemistry department and check
if they have a glassblowing shop. Wander in and ask if they can take a
small job. Hint: Glassblowers like to talk, and will work faster and
better for you if you spend some time talking with them.

josh halpern
Mike Painter
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 7:01 pm
Guest
"Josh Halpern" <j.halpern@incoming.verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uaGHb.1110$f3.454@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
Quote:


DaveC wrote:

On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 20:01:07 -0800, Steve Turner wrote
(in message <7khsuv0t5nc6heeguaruehq28orb3jci5p@4ax.com>):



A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.



Where in a a city would I look for a business that has access to a
diamond
saw? Jewelers? Help me out, here...


Google any nearby college or university chemistry department and check
if they have a glassblowing shop. Wander in and ask if they can take a
small job. Hint: Glassblowers like to talk, and will work faster and
better for you if you spend some time talking with them.

josh halpern

"Glassblowers like to talk..." Yeah but they are all blowhards.
G. R. L. Cowan
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 8:03 pm
Guest
Mike Painter wrote:
Quote:

"Josh Halpern" <j.halpern@incoming.verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uaGHb.1110$f3.454@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...


DaveC wrote:

On Sat, 27 Dec 2003 20:01:07 -0800, Steve Turner wrote
(in message <7khsuv0t5nc6heeguaruehq28orb3jci5p@4ax.com>):



A diamond glass-cutting saw does the best job. You will end up with a
perfectly square cut, with the cut surface having a frosted appearance
and a finish which is generally not sharp enough to be dangerous. But
few people have access to diamond saws.



Where in a a city would I look for a business that has access to a
diamond
saw? Jewelers? Help me out, here...


Google any nearby college or university chemistry department and check
if they have a glassblowing shop. Wander in and ask if they can take a
small job. Hint: Glassblowers like to talk, and will work faster and
better for you if you spend some time talking with them.

josh halpern

"Glassblowers like to talk..." Yeah but they are all blowhards.

Not so much these days.
They've taken to heating the glass.


--- Graham Cowan
http://www.eagle.ca/~gcowan/Paper_for_11th_CHC.doc --
fireproof fuel, real-car range, no emissions
SNUMBER6
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2003 8:33 pm
Guest
Quote:
From: Josh Halpern j.halpern@incoming.verizon.net

Hint: Glassblowers like to talk, and will work faster and
better for you if you spend some time talking with them.

It's becominga lost art ... back in the late sixties we had plenty of meetings
with those at Scientific Glass (later SGA Scientific, now gone though designs
are now owned by Lurex and available) ...
For little more than the cost of the glassware, they assembled us some
excellent apparatus for making and maintaining some air sensitive reductants
....
I tried to recreate some recently ... and could find no one to do so ... Lurex
had the original designs still ...and would be willing to attempt it ... but
the cost was one arm and one leg and some fingers and toes for tax ...
None of the local universities had anything resembling a glass shop ...


Be seeing you
In the Village
Number 6
Mark Tarka
Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 9:54 am
Guest
snumber6@aol.com (SNUMBER6) wrote in message news:<20031228203327.01665.00001847@mb-m18.aol.com>...
Quote:
From: Josh Halpern j.halpern@incoming.verizon.net

Hint: Glassblowers like to talk, and will work faster and
better for you if you spend some time talking with them.

It's becominga lost art ... back in the late sixties we had
plenty of meetings with those at [snip]

Not lost, neglected as irrelevant. Today's research
is more like a rat-maze (stay within the narrow
confines and run like hell) than the thoughtful
projection of possibilities it once was.

Score the neck with a file or glass tool, wrap
the area with one loop of tungsten wire connected
to a....


Mark (I just got some Viagra to correct my
male dysfunction problem. It works great.
However, with my Alzheimer's, I forget
what to do with it Smile
 
Page 2 of 3    Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next   All times are GMT - 5 Hours
The time now is Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:44 pm