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| Science Forum Index » Optics Forum » Kaiser LS-1000 Capacitor Charging Power Supply... |
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| rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net... |
 Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:15 pm |
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Guest
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Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a (new, old stock) Kaiser Systems LS-1000 1.5kv
power supply on eBay and am having trouble getting it up and running
to charge my yag flash capacitor. The interface is via a DB-15 and
the pin out is listed below. In manual a short checklist is provided
on the minimum signals that are required to operate the power supply
(further below with specifics of what I did to accomplish each step).
It looks pretty straight forward to me but I have been wrong before.
One point of confusion I have is with the indicator (pins) I want to
connect LEDs to. If the signal is pulled to ground when the LED should
be on would that imply that the other leg would be hard wired to a
positive DC source. Initial thoughts lead me to think that the LED
would light when the the negative side is 'pulled to ground' however
this is not the case. I really need to get these indicators working
so I can see whats going on while I'm trying to power it up.
No where in the manual have I seen anything defining the input range
for the voltage program pin 5. If using the 12v reference it has to be
12 or below. Right?
I have to be shooting myself in the foot somewhere in this process I
just can't tell what I'm doing wrong.
DB-15 PIN Out
pin 1 - Inhibit - The high voltage (HV) output is inhibited when pin 1
is at +12v or open circuited, it is enabled when pin 1 is pulled to
ground.
pin 2 - Load fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the unit can not
charge the output capacitor to the requested voltage within a
reasonable time period. The high voltage output is disabled.
pin 3 - Temperature fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the
internal temperature exceeds a safe operating level. The high voltage
output is disabled.
pin 4 - Interlock Fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the external
interlock is violated. High voltage output is disabled.
pin 5 - Voltage program - A positive dc voltage applied to pin 5
controls the output voltage set point. Input resistance >= 200 kohms.
pin 6 - Over voltage fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the
maximum output voltage exceeds a safe operating level, the unit is
disabled when this occurs.
pins 7,8 - Voltage monitor - The voltage at pin 8 is a buffered signal
proportional to the instantaneous output. Drive capability: 10 V at
1.5 mA.
pins 9,11,12 - +12 V Control reference - Pin 9, 11, and 12 provide 12
Vdc that may be used with an external potentiometer for supplying a
voltage program signal to pin 5. No load regulation:
1% typical. Output resistance: 10 Ohms. Max output current: 50 mA.
Pin 10 - External interlock - Pin 10 is provided for use with an
external mechanical contact to prevent inadvertent supply operation
when end user access doors are open. Short pin 10 to ground return
pin 15 to allow operation.
Pin 13 - End of charge indicator - Pin 13 is pulled to ground when the
output voltage is equal to or greater than the program voltage.
Pin 14 - Unused
Pin 15 - Ground - Pin 15 connects to the circuit ground of all
internal circuitry and is internally tied to chassis ground. The
return signal connection for all interface connector pins (1 - 13)
should be made to pin 15.
Minimum Steps To Operate
The minimum signals required to operate are inhibit, voltage program,
and external interlock.
Step 1: Inhibit the power supply by applying either a high impedance
(such as an open collector driver in the off state) or a +12V signal
to the inhibit pin.
I have used a 12v, 300mA variable wall transformer connecting its
ground to pin 15 and the +12 to pin 1. I have no idea if this is a
valid way to do this however.
Step 2: Apply AC to the power supply (110v).
There are signs of life because the fans spin up.
Step 3: Set the desired output voltage by applying a dc voltage to the
voltage program pin 5.
I used the 12v reference signal on pin 9 and a Radio Shack cermet
potentiometer (271-0342) to sweep back and forth across 0 - 12v with
no change in the power supply HV output. (which is showing an output
voltage of 24.29v on my multimeter when powered on regardless of the
pin settings). One thing I did notice is that when all of the pins are
set correctly and the supply should be operating, when I am the pin 5
input voltage I hear a slight ticking sound within the
somewhere. If I power it down then back up (not changing the pin 5
voltage) the ticking is not present.
Step 4: Close the external interlock by shorting pin 10 to 15.
Step 5: Enable the high voltage output by pulling the inhibit line,
pin 1, to the correct logic level.
Previously in the manual it was stated that taking pin 1 to ground
will enable the power supply.
If anyone can offer any advice at all it will be greatly appreciated. |
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| Samuel M. Goldwasser... |
| Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:32 am |
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Guest
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How sure are you that the supply was actually good?
It sounds like you've done everything correctly.
A ticking in a switchmode power supply may indicate a undercurrent or
overcurrent or short fault.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
"rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
[quote]Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a (new, old stock) Kaiser Systems LS-1000 1.5kv
power supply on eBay and am having trouble getting it up and running
to charge my yag flash capacitor. The interface is via a DB-15 and
the pin out is listed below. In manual a short checklist is provided
on the minimum signals that are required to operate the power supply
(further below with specifics of what I did to accomplish each step).
It looks pretty straight forward to me but I have been wrong before.
One point of confusion I have is with the indicator (pins) I want to
connect LEDs to. If the signal is pulled to ground when the LED should
be on would that imply that the other leg would be hard wired to a
positive DC source. Initial thoughts lead me to think that the LED
would light when the the negative side is 'pulled to ground' however
this is not the case. I really need to get these indicators working
so I can see whats going on while I'm trying to power it up.
No where in the manual have I seen anything defining the input range
for the voltage program pin 5. If using the 12v reference it has to be
12 or below. Right?
I have to be shooting myself in the foot somewhere in this process I
just can't tell what I'm doing wrong.
DB-15 PIN Out
pin 1 - Inhibit - The high voltage (HV) output is inhibited when pin 1
is at +12v or open circuited, it is enabled when pin 1 is pulled to
ground.
[/quote]
Connect pin 1 to ground.
[quote]pin 2 - Load fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the unit can not
charge the output capacitor to the requested voltage within a
reasonable time period. The high voltage output is disabled.
[/quote]
Output that could probably drive an LED connected to +12 via 1K resistor.
[quote]pin 3 - Temperature fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the
internal temperature exceeds a safe operating level. The high voltage
output is disabled.
[/quote]
Output that could probably drive an LED connected to +12 via 1K resistor.
[quote]pin 4 - Interlock Fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the external
interlock is violated. High voltage output is disabled.
[/quote]
Output that could probably drive an LED connected to +12 via 1K resistor.
[quote]pin 5 - Voltage program - A positive dc voltage applied to pin 5
controls the output voltage set point. Input resistance >= 200 kohms.
[/quote]
Input 0 to 12 V.
[quote]pin 6 - Over voltage fault indicator - Pulled to ground when the
maximum output voltage exceeds a safe operating level, the unit is
disabled when this occurs.
[/quote]
Output that could probably drive an LED connected to +12 via 1K resistor.
[quote]pins 7,8 - Voltage monitor - The voltage at pin 8 is a buffered signal
proportional to the instantaneous output. Drive capability: 10 V at
1.5 mA.
[/quote]
Output proportional to available current??
[quote]pins 9,11,12 - +12 V Control reference - Pin 9, 11, and 12 provide 12
Vdc that may be used with an external potentiometer for supplying a
voltage program signal to pin 5. No load regulation:
1% typical. Output resistance: 10 Ohms. Max output current: 50 mA.
Pin 10 - External interlock - Pin 10 is provided for use with an
external mechanical contact to prevent inadvertent supply operation
when end user access doors are open. Short pin 10 to ground return
pin 15 to allow operation.
[/quote]
Ground to enable.
[quote]Pin 13 - End of charge indicator - Pin 13 is pulled to ground when the
output voltage is equal to or greater than the program voltage.
[/quote]
Output that could probably drive an LED connected to +12 via 1K resistor.
[quote]Pin 14 - Unused
Pin 15 - Ground - Pin 15 connects to the circuit ground of all
internal circuitry and is internally tied to chassis ground. The
return signal connection for all interface connector pins (1 - 13)
should be made to pin 15.
[/quote]
Ground.
[quote]Minimum Steps To Operate
The minimum signals required to operate are inhibit, voltage program,
and external interlock.
Step 1: Inhibit the power supply by applying either a high impedance
(such as an open collector driver in the off state) or a +12V signal
to the inhibit pin.
I have used a 12v, 300mA variable wall transformer connecting its
ground to pin 15 and the +12 to pin 1. I have no idea if this is a
valid way to do this however.
Step 2: Apply AC to the power supply (110v).
There are signs of life because the fans spin up.
Step 3: Set the desired output voltage by applying a dc voltage to the
voltage program pin 5.
I used the 12v reference signal on pin 9 and a Radio Shack cermet
potentiometer (271-0342) to sweep back and forth across 0 - 12v with
no change in the power supply HV output. (which is showing an output
voltage of 24.29v on my multimeter when powered on regardless of the
pin settings). One thing I did notice is that when all of the pins are
set correctly and the supply should be operating, when I am the pin 5
input voltage I hear a slight ticking sound within the
somewhere. If I power it down then back up (not changing the pin 5
voltage) the ticking is not present.
Step 4: Close the external interlock by shorting pin 10 to 15.
Step 5: Enable the high voltage output by pulling the inhibit line,
pin 1, to the correct logic level.
Previously in the manual it was stated that taking pin 1 to ground
will enable the power supply.
If anyone can offer any advice at all it will be greatly appreciated.[/quote] |
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| rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net... |
| Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 2:27 pm |
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Guest
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I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!! |
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| rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 2:19 pm |
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Guest
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On Nov 7, 7:27 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net>
wrote:
[quote]I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!!
[/quote]
I went back to square one an was able to get the LEDs functioning with
the exception of the interlock indicator but I didn't have time to dig
into it yet. Probably something dumb I can correct. Regardless of
the interlock LED I was able to determine the following as I swept the
voltage program pin from 0 to 12v in 1 volt increments:
0v Tick could be heard, End of change LED on.
1v Tick could be heard slightly louder(possibly a little faster as
well), End of change LED on.
2v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
3v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
4v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
5v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
6v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
7v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
8v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
9v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
10v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
11v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
12v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
I'm not sure what this should be telling me other than I should focus
the voltage sweep between 3 and 4 volts. Is there another conclusion
that someone with a trained eye could spot in the above list?
As always, thanks....... |
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| Samuel M. Goldwasser... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:00 pm |
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Guest
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"rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
[quote]On Nov 7, 7:27 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net
wrote:
I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!!
I went back to square one an was able to get the LEDs functioning with
the exception of the interlock indicator but I didn't have time to dig
into it yet. Probably something dumb I can correct. Regardless of
the interlock LED I was able to determine the following as I swept the
voltage program pin from 0 to 12v in 1 volt increments:
0v Tick could be heard, End of change LED on.
1v Tick could be heard slightly louder(possibly a little faster as
well), End of change LED on.
2v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
3v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
4v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
5v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
6v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
7v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
8v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
9v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
10v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
11v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
12v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
I'm not sure what this should be telling me other than I should focus
the voltage sweep between 3 and 4 volts. Is there another conclusion
that someone with a trained eye could spot in the above list?
As always, thanks.......
[/quote]
Is there anything on the output?
Put a high voltage-rated load resistance on the output that would
be appropriate for the current it be capable of and monitor the output
while doing the same tests as before.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. |
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| rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net... |
| Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:43 am |
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Guest
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On Nov 8, 8:00 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
[quote]"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 7, 7:27 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net
wrote:
I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!!
I went back to square one an was able to get the LEDs functioning with
the exception of the interlock indicator but I didn't have time to dig
into it yet. Probably something dumb I can correct. Regardless of
the interlock LED I was able to determine the following as I swept the
voltage program pin from 0 to 12v in 1 volt increments:
0v Tick could be heard, End of change LED on.
1v Tick could be heard slightly louder(possibly a little faster as
well), End of change LED on.
2v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
3v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
4v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
5v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
6v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
7v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
8v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
9v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
10v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
11v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
12v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
I'm not sure what this should be telling me other than I should focus
the voltage sweep between 3 and 4 volts. Is there another conclusion
that someone with a trained eye could spot in the above list?
As always, thanks.......
Is there anything on the output?
Put a high voltage-rated load resistance on the output that would
be appropriate for the current it be capable of and monitor the output
while doing the same tests as before.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
[/quote]
When I put a load on the output the dmm read a steady 24.99v. I went
ahead and called Kaiser and because of the manufacture date and that
they haven't made this power supply in so long (1998) they didn't
really want to spend much time on the subject. I did get one question
answered though and it appears that your initial suspicion was
confirmed. They said the unit had probably been stored in a high
moisture or humid environment. Is it likely that I may be able to
isolate the source of the ticking and attempt a repair? I haven't
done anything with yet but am thinking I might pull the PCB out and
visually inspect it or even power it back up and look/listen carefully
and see if can see anything.....
Rob |
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| Samuel M. Goldwasser... |
| Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:31 pm |
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Guest
|
"rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
[quote]On Nov 8, 8:00 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 7, 7:27 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net
wrote:
I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!!
I went back to square one an was able to get the LEDs functioning with
the exception of the interlock indicator but I didn't have time to dig
into it yet. Probably something dumb I can correct. Regardless of
the interlock LED I was able to determine the following as I swept the
voltage program pin from 0 to 12v in 1 volt increments:
0v Tick could be heard, End of change LED on.
1v Tick could be heard slightly louder(possibly a little faster as
well), End of change LED on.
2v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
3v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
4v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
5v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
6v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
7v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
8v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
9v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
10v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
11v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
12v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
I'm not sure what this should be telling me other than I should focus
the voltage sweep between 3 and 4 volts. Is there another conclusion
that someone with a trained eye could spot in the above list?
As always, thanks.......
Is there anything on the output?
Put a high voltage-rated load resistance on the output that would
be appropriate for the current it be capable of and monitor the output
while doing the same tests as before.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
When I put a load on the output the dmm read a steady 24.99v. I went
ahead and called Kaiser and because of the manufacture date and that
they haven't made this power supply in so long (1998) they didn't
really want to spend much time on the subject. I did get one question
answered though and it appears that your initial suspicion was
confirmed. They said the unit had probably been stored in a high
moisture or humid environment. Is it likely that I may be able to
isolate the source of the ticking and attempt a repair? I haven't
done anything with yet but am thinking I might pull the PCB out and
visually inspect it or even power it back up and look/listen carefully
and see if can see anything.....
[/quote]
How much of it is potted?
The short is likely either the main chopper transistor(s) or something
on the high voltage side of the step-up transformer. It may be worth
checking all power semiconductors for shorts as a second step after
inspecting for obvious damage.
However, you're reading of a constant 25 V is strange.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. |
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| rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net... |
| Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:24 am |
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Guest
|
On Nov 9, 7:31 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
[quote]"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 8, 8:00 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 7, 7:27 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net
wrote:
I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!!
I went back to square one an was able to get the LEDs functioning with
the exception of the interlock indicator but I didn't have time to dig
into it yet. Probably something dumb I can correct. Regardless of
the interlock LED I was able to determine the following as I swept the
voltage program pin from 0 to 12v in 1 volt increments:
0v Tick could be heard, End of change LED on.
1v Tick could be heard slightly louder(possibly a little faster as
well), End of change LED on.
2v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
3v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
4v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
5v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
6v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
7v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
8v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
9v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
10v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
11v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
12v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
I'm not sure what this should be telling me other than I should focus
the voltage sweep between 3 and 4 volts. Is there another conclusion
that someone with a trained eye could spot in the above list?
As always, thanks.......
Is there anything on the output?
Put a high voltage-rated load resistance on the output that would
be appropriate for the current it be capable of and monitor the output
while doing the same tests as before.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
When I put a load on the output the dmm read a steady 24.99v. I went
ahead and called Kaiser and because of the manufacture date and that
they haven't made this power supply in so long (1998) they didn't
really want to spend much time on the subject. I did get one question
answered though and it appears that your initial suspicion was
confirmed. They said the unit had probably been stored in a high
moisture or humid environment. Is it likely that I may be able to
isolate the source of the ticking and attempt a repair? I haven't
done anything with yet but am thinking I might pull the PCB out and
visually inspect it or even power it back up and look/listen carefully
and see if can see anything.....
How much of it is potted?
The short is likely either the main chopper transistor(s) or something
on the high voltage side of the step-up transformer. It may be worth
checking all power semiconductors for shorts as a second step after
inspecting for obvious damage.
However, you're reading of a constant 25 V is strange.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
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[/quote]
I pulled the boards out of the unit and fanned them out on a table top
so I could power it up. I'm still not 100% sure where the ticks are
coming from but at this point think it is coming from a large coil
that is encased in an iron outer jacket with 1 or 2 slits in the side
that allow me to see the windings. It is attached to the board with a
nylon nut and bolt. I've been using 2 feet piece of clear plastic
tubing with on end to my ear and the other free to move around hoping
to hear the noise get louder when near it. Is there a better way to
look for this? I'm going to separate the boards and look for any
visible issues now. |
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| rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net... |
| Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:12 pm |
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Guest
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On Nov 11, 12:24 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net>
wrote:
[quote]On Nov 9, 7:31 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 8, 8:00 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 7, 7:27 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net
wrote:
I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!!
I went back to square one an was able to get the LEDs functioning with
the exception of the interlock indicator but I didn't have time to dig
into it yet. Probably something dumb I can correct. Regardless of
the interlock LED I was able to determine the following as I swept the
voltage program pin from 0 to 12v in 1 volt increments:
0v Tick could be heard, End of change LED on.
1v Tick could be heard slightly louder(possibly a little faster as
well), End of change LED on.
2v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
3v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
4v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
5v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
6v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
7v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
8v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
9v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
10v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
11v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
12v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
I'm not sure what this should be telling me other than I should focus
the voltage sweep between 3 and 4 volts. Is there another conclusion
that someone with a trained eye could spot in the above list?
As always, thanks.......
Is there anything on the output?
Put a high voltage-rated load resistance on the output that would
be appropriate for the current it be capable of and monitor the output
while doing the same tests as before.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
When I put a load on the output the dmm read a steady 24.99v. I went
ahead and called Kaiser and because of the manufacture date and that
they haven't made this power supply in so long (1998) they didn't
really want to spend much time on the subject. I did get one question
answered though and it appears that your initial suspicion was
confirmed. They said the unit had probably been stored in a high
moisture or humid environment. Is it likely that I may be able to
isolate the source of the ticking and attempt a repair? I haven't
done anything with yet but am thinking I might pull the PCB out and
visually inspect it or even power it back up and look/listen carefully
and see if can see anything.....
How much of it is potted?
The short is likely either the main chopper transistor(s) or something
on the high voltage side of the step-up transformer. It may be worth
checking all power semiconductors for shorts as a second step after
inspecting for obvious damage.
However, you're reading of a constant 25 V is strange.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
I pulled the boards out of the unit and fanned them out on a table top
so I could power it up. I'm still not 100% sure where the ticks are
coming from but at this point think it is coming from a large coil
that is encased in an iron outer jacket with 1 or 2 slits in the side
that allow me to see the windings. It is attached to the board with a
nylon nut and bolt. I've been using 2 feet piece of clear plastic
tubing with on end to my ear and the other free to move around hoping
to hear the noise get louder when near it. Is there a better way to
look for this? I'm going to separate the boards and look for any
visible issues now.
[/quote]
I'm at a temporary impasse. I spoke with the person whole sold the
power supply who agreed to send a new one even though it was bought
'as-is'. So, I'm going to send the interface I built and power cord
(it had to be assembled with the supplied pins and connector, so he
doesn't have to make one). What I'm not certain about is if he wants
this one back or not. I would imagine so but the conversation was
left open ended. Once I know where this process is going to end up I
update this thread......
Rob |
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| Samuel M. Goldwasser... |
| Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:04 pm |
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Guest
|
"rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill100 at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
[quote]On Nov 9, 7:31 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 8, 8:00 pm, s... at (no spam) repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
"rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net> writes:
On Nov 7, 7:27 pm, "rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net" <rhill... at (no spam) bellsouth.net
wrote:
I'm not certain that it good, just going on blind faith at the
moment. I'll go back through everything again and see if made a
mistake along the way. I haven't tried to contact Kaiser yet but
don't know if anyone would even talk to me about it. At some point I
will place a call out of desperation.
Thanks for your input, I'll be back!!
I went back to square one an was able to get the LEDs functioning with
the exception of the interlock indicator but I didn't have time to dig
into it yet. Probably something dumb I can correct. Regardless of
the interlock LED I was able to determine the following as I swept the
voltage program pin from 0 to 12v in 1 volt increments:
0v Tick could be heard, End of change LED on.
1v Tick could be heard slightly louder(possibly a little faster as
well), End of change LED on.
2v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
3v Tick could be heard slightly louder again(possibly a little
faster as well), End of change LED on.
4v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
5v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
6v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
7v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
8v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
9v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
10v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
11v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
12v Load fault and Over voltage fault LEDs on.
I'm not sure what this should be telling me other than I should focus
the voltage sweep between 3 and 4 volts. Is there another conclusion
that someone with a trained eye could spot in the above list?
As always, thanks.......
Is there anything on the output?
Put a high voltage-rated load resistance on the output that would
be appropriate for the current it be capable of and monitor the output
while doing the same tests as before.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
When I put a load on the output the dmm read a steady 24.99v. I went
ahead and called Kaiser and because of the manufacture date and that
they haven't made this power supply in so long (1998) they didn't
really want to spend much time on the subject. I did get one question
answered though and it appears that your initial suspicion was
confirmed. They said the unit had probably been stored in a high
moisture or humid environment. Is it likely that I may be able to
isolate the source of the ticking and attempt a repair? I haven't
done anything with yet but am thinking I might pull the PCB out and
visually inspect it or even power it back up and look/listen carefully
and see if can see anything.....
How much of it is potted?
The short is likely either the main chopper transistor(s) or something
on the high voltage side of the step-up transformer. It may be worth
checking all power semiconductors for shorts as a second step after
inspecting for obvious damage.
However, you're reading of a constant 25 V is strange.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
I pulled the boards out of the unit and fanned them out on a table top
so I could power it up. I'm still not 100% sure where the ticks are
coming from but at this point think it is coming from a large coil
that is encased in an iron outer jacket with 1 or 2 slits in the side
that allow me to see the windings. It is attached to the board with a
nylon nut and bolt. I've been using 2 feet piece of clear plastic
tubing with on end to my ear and the other free to move around hoping
to hear the noise get louder when near it. Is there a better way to
look for this? I'm going to separate the boards and look for any
visible issues now.
[/quote]
There aren't that many components that can make a sound, so any fault
will result in that coil or transformer "ticking".
It's probably trying to start up and detecting a short of overload.
Check the semiconductors on the output side for shorts. You should be
able to locate the high voltage components.
You will have to troubleshoot like a switchmode power supply, which is
what it is. There's general info in the troubleshooting guides at my
Web sites, below.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. |
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