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| Michael A. Terrell... |
 Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:35 pm |
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Guest
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VWWall wrote:
[quote]
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
pimpom wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Jim Thompson wrote:
"Slug-Splitter", eh? That sure would have been nice in my
days of
punching holes for toob sockets ;-)
In your day, a chassis was chiseled out of stone! 
The last time I used knockout punches was almost 40 years ago
during the only time I ever worked under someone else. Tubes were
still a more viable option than solid-state devices for many
applications, especially in places like India. I remember having
a mild argument with my boss when he asked me to design and
construct a constant-current, high-voltage supply for
electrophoretic work in a medical research lab.
He was a New Zealander who'd received his Ph.D in the US and was
more at home with solid-state devices than with tubes. I was 19,
entirely self-taught from the likes of Radiotron Designers's
Handbook and whaterver scraps of literature I could find. I
wanted to use an EL84 at its "design maximum" ratings and he
claimed that active devices should never be operated anywhere
near their maximum ratings. I had my way, and the lab used the
instrument for many years.
I had a nice collection of Greenlee punches, but someone stole the
whole set. It would be well over $1000 to replace them, these days. The
most expensive is the rectangular punch for 4PDT P&B relay sockets.
I had a 1 1/8" one that left a little tab for orienting octal tube
sockets. I haven't seen that one on the market for some time.
[/quote]
Amphenol quit making the sockets and sold that division to WPI, who
was bough by Cooper, who dropped the line. No need for a punch for
something you can no longer buy in reasonable quantities. 
--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary! |
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| VWWall... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:47 pm |
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Guest
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Michael A. Terrell wrote:
[quote]VWWall wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I had a nice collection of Greenlee punches, but someone stole the
whole set. It would be well over $1000 to replace them, these days. The
most expensive is the rectangular punch for 4PDT P&B relay sockets.
I had a 1 1/8" one that left a little tab for orienting octal tube
sockets. I haven't seen that one on the market for some time.
Amphenol quit making the sockets and sold that division to WPI, who
was bough by Cooper, who dropped the line. No need for a punch for
something you can no longer buy in reasonable quantities. :(
I think I only used the thing once or twice. It was a real pain getting[/quote]
the locking ring on the socket. The standard sockets also give you four
handy "ground lugs".
--
Virg Wall |
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| VWWall... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:15 pm |
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Guest
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pimpom wrote:
[quote]Jim Thompson wrote:
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 17:19:35 +0530, "pimpom"
pimpom at (no spam) invalid.com
wrote:
He was a New Zealander who'd received his Ph.D in the US and
was
more at home with solid-state devices than with tubes. I was
19,
entirely self-taught from the likes of Radiotron Designers's
Handbook
Mine is 4th Edition, 1953 ;-)
Same here. I got my own copy in the late 70s through a friend in
the US. It says that it's the 4th edition, 1952 - reproduced
under direction of RCA in April 1953. I had it rebound later and
it's still in very good shape. Still comes in useful for some
things.
I have the same 4th edition, except reproduced by RCA in 1952.[/quote]
That book, and the entire six volume RCA Tube Handbook, HB-3, is still
useful. The tube handbook contains data sheets back to 1942, but I
subscribed to up-dates.
It has the data sheets for the 913, the cathode-ray tube in the first
oscilloscope I built in 1942. It had all of one inch screen on a tube
that looked like a 6L6, but worked for things like frequency comparison.
It has data for the 954, 959 "acorn" tubes, which I used as rf pre-amps
doing radio intelligence intercepts in North Africa while I was in the
Army Signal Intelligence Service.
My first engineering job was at Bell Labs, where I "pumped" some of the
vacuum tubes the went into TAT-1, the first transatlantic cable. Tubes
are still very useful in things like microwave ovens and satellite
transmitters. I worked with TWTAs for many years.
(I did teach transistor electronics for UCLA Extension in 1954-1955.)
--
Virg Wall, P.E. |
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| VWWall... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:24 pm |
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Guest
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Michael A. Terrell wrote:
[quote]pimpom wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Jim Thompson wrote:
"Slug-Splitter", eh? That sure would have been nice in my
days of
punching holes for toob sockets ;-)
In your day, a chassis was chiseled out of stone!
The last time I used knockout punches was almost 40 years ago
during the only time I ever worked under someone else. Tubes were
still a more viable option than solid-state devices for many
applications, especially in places like India. I remember having
a mild argument with my boss when he asked me to design and
construct a constant-current, high-voltage supply for
electrophoretic work in a medical research lab.
He was a New Zealander who'd received his Ph.D in the US and was
more at home with solid-state devices than with tubes. I was 19,
entirely self-taught from the likes of Radiotron Designers's
Handbook and whaterver scraps of literature I could find. I
wanted to use an EL84 at its "design maximum" ratings and he
claimed that active devices should never be operated anywhere
near their maximum ratings. I had my way, and the lab used the
instrument for many years.
I had a nice collection of Greenlee punches, but someone stole the
whole set. It would be well over $1000 to replace them, these days. The
most expensive is the rectangular punch for 4PDT P&B relay sockets.
I had a 1 1/8" one that left a little tab for orienting octal tube[/quote]
sockets. I haven't seen that one on the market for some time.
--
Virg Wall, P.E. |
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| krw... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:52 pm |
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Guest
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On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 11:27:57 -0800, Archimedes' Lever
<OneBigLever at (no spam) InfiniteSeries.Org> wrote:
[quote]On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 11:33:02 -0600, krw <krw at (no spam) att.bizzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
"Our"? You certainly don't design with them;
You have no clue, as usual.
[/quote]
DimBulb, I have pegged. You're lower than a floor wipe.
[quote]too stupid.
You certainly are.
[/quote]
Wrong again, AlwaysWrong.
[quote]I lose
nothing,
Nothing from nothing leaves nothing. Basic math, nothing boy.
[/quote]
Nymbecile? Basic math? Snoo-o-o-rt! That's just too funny, coming
from the group's own math-phobe! |
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| krw... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:04 pm |
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Guest
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On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 15:03:09 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell at (no spam) earthlink.net> wrote:
[quote]
krw wrote:
On Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:30:52 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell at (no spam) earthlink.net> wrote:
They are working to improve quality. I've talked to a manager they
move around from store to store to improve their retail stores, and was
told they have had to drop a number of vendors because of quality
problems. Some were replaced because another vendor offered better
quality, and at a lower price. Some of the discussions we had resulted
in changes in their website, as well. Most people don't use that grade
of tool for profession work, but I've run into several guys who swear by
their Pittsburgh Professional wrenches. One was putting two sets in his
work truck and told me he had never had one break, but a lot had been
stolen so he bought two sets at a time. Others told me they used them
working on cars for a living, and had never had a problem. For their
prices, they are hard to beat but you need to look at any tools you plan
on using daily no matter who sells them. I know people who still swear
by Craftsman hand tools because of the lifetime warranty. Then they brag
about how many times Sears has replaced their broken tools.
Hmm. I was at the Montgomery store yesterday but didn't buy much
(just a magnetic parts dish). I was looking at some of their wrenches
but I've bough cheap wrenches before that weren't the marked size.
Kinda makes it tough when the wrench is smaller than the bolt. Maybe
I'll give them a try.
I have been buying from Harbor Freight for almost 40 years and have
only had one defective tool in that time. It was one of their 6 in 1
screwdrivers, and one piece wasn't properly punched. OTOH, I bought six
that day for half price so I didn't bother to take back a $1.49 tool
that I can fix on my drill press. When I started dealing with them,
they only did mail order and I was buying factory second drill bits by
the pound. Mostly 1/8", since I broke a lot of them drilling out
rivets. A pound would last about 5 years for about $10.
I have bought their drill bits and use the smaller ones a fair bit.
The bigger ones last a long time so I can afford to buy good ones.
I've had a problem with the temper on screwdrivers and alignment of
the jaws on pliers. HF isn't alone here but they are pretty bad.
I also have their 10" compound sliding miter saw. It's fine for
framing but it's not so great for woodworking. I'll likely replace
it, perhaps with a Bosch or Dewalt, in a year or so.
I just bought an old Crftsman 10" belt drive table saw to replace the
one that has an internal motor that quit. Both were built by Emerson
over 15 years ago. The internal motor was a custom design, and used an
externally mounted Klixon thermal motor starter that is no longer
availible. the motor is no longer availible, as well. The belt drive
saw is older, but uses a stock 1/2 HP motor and there is very little
that can't be repaired or make with a few metalworking tools. I'm going
to replace all the bearings as P.M., and the rubber covered levelers
will be replaced with some 4" stem casters. It is so heavy that it takes
two people to lift it out of my truck, or to move it.
[/quote]
The "integral" motors are usually universal motors; horrible things.
An old Sears contractors saw is a reasonable tool. Newer ones are
junk. I bought a Delta X5 Unisaw in March. Just came in from making
sawdust, in fact (still can't understand why my dado zero-clearance
insert no longer fits ?-/).
[quote]I have several other Crftsman saws that my dad left when he moved
north last year. A couple radial arm saws, a miter saw and a couple
circular saws. I also have the little 10" table saw from Harbor freight
that I use to cut luan plywood. I bought it for $69 a few months ago.
Its nothing special, but it works for what I want. I am replacing some
paper tray bins with plywood, and i am going to build some 2'*2'*2'
boxes that stack
[/quote]
I also have a Craftsman RAS that I bought about 30 years ago. It's
taken apart right now but I'll put it back together when I get my shop
built. Last year I bought a Dewalt rear swivel circular saw that's
really slick. I also have their 18V 6" saw that I used for cutting
plywood down to size. I don't like most of HF's power tools. As I
said, the HF 10" SCMS is OK for what I bought it for but it's no world
beater. I bought a couple of HF 18V drills that are absolute junk. I
bought 'em mail order before I'd ever been into a store. Had I seen
them I never would have wasted the money. |
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| Michael A. Terrell... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:50 pm |
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Guest
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VWWall wrote:
[quote]
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
VWWall wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I had a nice collection of Greenlee punches, but someone stole the
whole set. It would be well over $1000 to replace them, these days. The
most expensive is the rectangular punch for 4PDT P&B relay sockets.
I had a 1 1/8" one that left a little tab for orienting octal tube
sockets. I haven't seen that one on the market for some time.
Amphenol quit making the sockets and sold that division to WPI, who
was bough by Cooper, who dropped the line. No need for a punch for
something you can no longer buy in reasonable quantities. :(
I think I only used the thing once or twice. It was a real pain getting
the locking ring on the socket. The standard sockets also give you four
handy "ground lugs".
[/quote]
The lock in type was more suited for control or power cables. Not all
octal sockets had ground lugs. I used to solder the mounting plates to
a brass plate to lower the inductance in RF circuits. :)
--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary! |
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| Michael A. Terrell... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:02 pm |
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Guest
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krw wrote:
[quote]
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I just bought an old Crftsman 10" belt drive table saw to replace the
one that has an internal motor that quit. Both were built by Emerson
over 15 years ago. The internal motor was a custom design, and used an
externally mounted Klixon thermal motor starter that is no longer
availible. the motor is no longer availible, as well. The belt drive
saw is older, but uses a stock 1/2 HP motor and there is very little
that can't be repaired or make with a few metalworking tools. I'm going
to replace all the bearings as P.M., and the rubber covered levelers
will be replaced with some 4" stem casters. It is so heavy that it takes
two people to lift it out of my truck, or to move it.
The "integral" motors are usually universal motors; horrible things.
An old Sears contractors saw is a reasonable tool. Newer ones are
junk. I bought a Delta X5 Unisaw in March. Just came in from making
sawdust, in fact (still can't understand why my dado zero-clearance
insert no longer fits ?-/).
[/quote]
The older Sears internal motor table saws were split phase, capacitor
start. Instead of using a mechanical switch inside the motor, Emerson
used the Klixon thermal starter.
[quote]I have several other Crftsman saws that my dad left when he moved
north last year. A couple radial arm saws, a miter saw and a couple
circular saws. I also have the little 10" table saw from Harbor freight
that I use to cut luan plywood. I bought it for $69 a few months ago.
Its nothing special, but it works for what I want. I am replacing some
paper tray bins with plywood, and i am going to build some 2'*2'*2'
boxes that stack
I also have a Craftsman RAS that I bought about 30 years ago. It's
taken apart right now but I'll put it back together when I get my shop
built. Last year I bought a Dewalt rear swivel circular saw that's
really slick. I also have their 18V 6" saw that I used for cutting
plywood down to size. I don't like most of HF's power tools. As I
said, the HF 10" SCMS is OK for what I bought it for but it's no world
beater. I bought a couple of HF 18V drills that are absolute junk. I
bought 'em mail order before I'd ever been into a store. Had I seen
them I never would have wasted the money.
[/quote]
Which 18 volt drills? They have several models. I still have one of
their 9.6 volt cordless drills that I've had for years. It doesn't hold
a full charge, but its over five years old. The same basic drill is now
sold as an 18 volt model 93440. The only thing that I don't like about
it is that the battery pack slides on, and uses a hockey puck to connect
to the charger but I bought a pair for under $40. If I need a high
torque drill, I use an AC powered drill.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93440
--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary! |
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| krw... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:24 pm |
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Guest
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On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 21:02:20 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell at (no spam) earthlink.net> wrote:
[quote]
krw wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I just bought an old Crftsman 10" belt drive table saw to replace the
one that has an internal motor that quit. Both were built by Emerson
over 15 years ago. The internal motor was a custom design, and used an
externally mounted Klixon thermal motor starter that is no longer
availible. the motor is no longer availible, as well. The belt drive
saw is older, but uses a stock 1/2 HP motor and there is very little
that can't be repaired or make with a few metalworking tools. I'm going
to replace all the bearings as P.M., and the rubber covered levelers
will be replaced with some 4" stem casters. It is so heavy that it takes
two people to lift it out of my truck, or to move it.
The "integral" motors are usually universal motors; horrible things.
An old Sears contractors saw is a reasonable tool. Newer ones are
junk. I bought a Delta X5 Unisaw in March. Just came in from making
sawdust, in fact (still can't understand why my dado zero-clearance
insert no longer fits ?-/).
The older Sears internal motor table saws were split phase, capacitor
start. Instead of using a mechanical switch inside the motor, Emerson
used the Klixon thermal starter.
[/quote]
The belt drive saws have induction motors but every direct drive saw
I've seen has a universal motor (to get it small enough to have enough
of the blade exposed to be useful).
[quote]I have several other Crftsman saws that my dad left when he moved
north last year. A couple radial arm saws, a miter saw and a couple
circular saws. I also have the little 10" table saw from Harbor freight
that I use to cut luan plywood. I bought it for $69 a few months ago.
Its nothing special, but it works for what I want. I am replacing some
paper tray bins with plywood, and i am going to build some 2'*2'*2'
boxes that stack
I also have a Craftsman RAS that I bought about 30 years ago. It's
taken apart right now but I'll put it back together when I get my shop
built. Last year I bought a Dewalt rear swivel circular saw that's
really slick. I also have their 18V 6" saw that I used for cutting
plywood down to size. I don't like most of HF's power tools. As I
said, the HF 10" SCMS is OK for what I bought it for but it's no world
beater. I bought a couple of HF 18V drills that are absolute junk. I
bought 'em mail order before I'd ever been into a store. Had I seen
them I never would have wasted the money.
Which 18 volt drills? They have several models. I still have one of
their 9.6 volt cordless drills that I've had for years. It doesn't hold
a full charge, but its over five years old. The same basic drill is now
sold as an 18 volt model 93440. The only thing that I don't like about
it is that the battery pack slides on, and uses a hockey puck to connect
to the charger but I bought a pair for under $40. If I need a high
torque drill, I use an AC powered drill.
[/quote]
Dunno, I'll see if I can find it......91396. It's balance is all off
and feels like it's made by a kid's vac-u-form kit. It's a total waste
of a blow-mold case. ...and blow-mold cases are pretty worthless.
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93440 |
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| miso at (no spam) sushi.com... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:50 pm |
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Guest
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On Nov 1, 8:48 am, ChrisQ <m... at (no spam) devnull.com> wrote:
[quote]John Fields wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 14:01:28 +0000, ChrisQ <m... at (no spam) devnull.com> wrote:
m... at (no spam) sushi.com wrote:
I needed to mount a dozen Canon jacks and used the Harbor Freight step
drills in your 3rd link. I used the 3 piece set. Harbor Freight is
well known for selling junk, but these stepped drills work great.
The only problem with step drills is the amount of filing you need to do
afterwards to clean all the burrs.
---
IME, deburring the entry side only requires feeding the drill into the
workpiece until the angular edge of the next step does the debur. Then,
to debur the exit side, all that's needed is to turn the workpiece over
and let that same angular edge do that debur.
That's true if you have access to both sides, but not so good drilling
into the side of a box, where you don't have drill access to the inside.
Problem with materials like ali or plastic is that step drills and hole
saws deform the material and generate quite a bit of heat. That can work
harden the burr, making it a devil to clear. Rotary file bits in the
drill can help, but it's still more hassle and leaves a more untidy job
than a punch in the end.
Regards,
Chris
[/quote]
True that a punch doesn't need debur, but these holes were pretty
clean. I didn't have to debur much. It really depends on how many
holes you will be punching. At some point, the chassis punch makes
sense. Anyway, my point is these step drills are one of the things at
HF that doesn't suck.
Of course, it takes some time for the smell of the store to leave your
lungs.....
Ah, one more thing that doesn't suck are those yard rakes from HF.
And of course I can't find them on the website. Figures. |
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| Michael A. Terrell... |
| Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:49 pm |
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Guest
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krw wrote:
[quote]
On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 21:02:20 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell at (no spam) earthlink.net> wrote:
krw wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I just bought an old Crftsman 10" belt drive table saw to replace the
one that has an internal motor that quit. Both were built by Emerson
over 15 years ago. The internal motor was a custom design, and used an
externally mounted Klixon thermal motor starter that is no longer
availible. the motor is no longer availible, as well. The belt drive
saw is older, but uses a stock 1/2 HP motor and there is very little
that can't be repaired or make with a few metalworking tools. I'm going
to replace all the bearings as P.M., and the rubber covered levelers
will be replaced with some 4" stem casters. It is so heavy that it takes
two people to lift it out of my truck, or to move it.
The "integral" motors are usually universal motors; horrible things.
An old Sears contractors saw is a reasonable tool. Newer ones are
junk. I bought a Delta X5 Unisaw in March. Just came in from making
sawdust, in fact (still can't understand why my dado zero-clearance
insert no longer fits ?-/).
The older Sears internal motor table saws were split phase, capacitor
start. Instead of using a mechanical switch inside the motor, Emerson
used the Klixon thermal starter.
The belt drive saws have induction motors but every direct drive saw
I've seen has a universal motor (to get it small enough to have enough
of the blade exposed to be useful).
[/quote]
I will post the exploded view of the saw with the motor. It is a
capacitor start motor and has no brushes. Its a misshapen piece of
oddball engineering. Basically, it fits in place of the bearing
assembly that holds the arbor on a belt drive table saw. You can't use
as much of the blade, because of the design.
[quote]Which 18 volt drills? They have several models. I still have one of
their 9.6 volt cordless drills that I've had for years. It doesn't hold
a full charge, but its over five years old. The same basic drill is now
sold as an 18 volt model 93440. The only thing that I don't like about
it is that the battery pack slides on, and uses a hockey puck to connect
to the charger but I bought a pair for under $40. If I need a high
torque drill, I use an AC powered drill.
Dunno, I'll see if I can find it......91396. It's balance is all off
and feels like it's made by a kid's vac-u-form kit. It's a total waste
of a blow-mold case. ...and blow-mold cases are pretty worthless.
[/quote]
That is one of the cheaper models. That is the same price as each of
the drills I bought, without the toy light or molded case. The absolute
worst cordless drills I've seen was my first one, a yellow plastic piece
of crap from Rockwell, and some 'Coleman Powermate' drills that were
given to me. They were store returns, and I've wonder if they were
actually returned, or thrown through the store windows. One had a
broken output shaft from the gearbox. The other had some wires that were
never connected. I 'fixed' that one and have seven batteries, but but
it makes anything else look good.
--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary! |
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| Michael A. Terrell... |
| Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:06 am |
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Guest
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"miso at (no spam) sushi.com" wrote:
[quote]
On Nov 1, 8:48 am, ChrisQ <m... at (no spam) devnull.com> wrote:
John Fields wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 14:01:28 +0000, ChrisQ <m... at (no spam) devnull.com> wrote:
m... at (no spam) sushi.com wrote:
I needed to mount a dozen Canon jacks and used the Harbor Freight step
drills in your 3rd link. I used the 3 piece set. Harbor Freight is
well known for selling junk, but these stepped drills work great.
The only problem with step drills is the amount of filing you need to do
afterwards to clean all the burrs.
---
IME, deburring the entry side only requires feeding the drill into the
workpiece until the angular edge of the next step does the debur. Then,
to debur the exit side, all that's needed is to turn the workpiece over
and let that same angular edge do that debur.
That's true if you have access to both sides, but not so good drilling
into the side of a box, where you don't have drill access to the inside.
Problem with materials like ali or plastic is that step drills and hole
saws deform the material and generate quite a bit of heat. That can work
harden the burr, making it a devil to clear. Rotary file bits in the
drill can help, but it's still more hassle and leaves a more untidy job
than a punch in the end.
Regards,
Chris
True that a punch doesn't need debur, but these holes were pretty
clean. I didn't have to debur much. It really depends on how many
holes you will be punching. At some point, the chassis punch makes
sense. Anyway, my point is these step drills are one of the things at
HF that doesn't suck.
Of course, it takes some time for the smell of the store to leave your
lungs.....
Ah, one more thing that doesn't suck are those yard rakes from HF.
And of course I can't find them on the website. Figures.
[/quote]
I bought one there, with a yellow fiberglass handle a few months ago.
--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary! |
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| ChrisQ... |
| Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:48 am |
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Guest
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Michael A. Terrell wrote:
[quote]
That is one of the cheaper models. That is the same price as each of
the drills I bought, without the toy light or molded case. The absolute
worst cordless drills I've seen was my first one, a yellow plastic piece
of crap from Rockwell, and some 'Coleman Powermate' drills that were
given to me. They were store returns, and I've wonder if they were
actually returned, or thrown through the store windows. One had a
broken output shaft from the gearbox. The other had some wires that were
never connected. I 'fixed' that one and have seven batteries, but but
it makes anything else look good.
[/quote]
I know we would all like to buy kit made locally, but the very best
power tools you can buy, imho, are Makita. I have bought both new and
s/hand from machinery auctions and boot sales. The secondhand ones
always get stripped, cleaned and relubed before use and you should see
the internals. Invariably ball or roller bearings on all shafts and
generously proportioned motors, which never seem to have any wear on the
commutators, irrespective of age. You can look at it with an engineers
critical eye and find little to find fault with. Some of the Bosch kit
is not bad as well and even some of the Black & Decker stuff, so long as
it's been made at the Scintilla subsiduary in Switzerland, but much of
the B&D stuff is rubbish.
It's the old story - buy cheap, buy twice  ...
Regards,
Chris |
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| Michael A. Terrell... |
| Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 2:01 pm |
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Guest
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ChrisQ wrote:
[quote]
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
That is one of the cheaper models. That is the same price as each of
the drills I bought, without the toy light or molded case. The absolute
worst cordless drills I've seen was my first one, a yellow plastic piece
of crap from Rockwell, and some 'Coleman Powermate' drills that were
given to me. They were store returns, and I've wonder if they were
actually returned, or thrown through the store windows. One had a
broken output shaft from the gearbox. The other had some wires that were
never connected. I 'fixed' that one and have seven batteries, but but
it makes anything else look good.
I know we would all like to buy kit made locally, but the very best
power tools you can buy, imho, are Makita. I have bought both new and
s/hand from machinery auctions and boot sales. The secondhand ones
always get stripped, cleaned and relubed before use and you should see
the internals. Invariably ball or roller bearings on all shafts and
generously proportioned motors, which never seem to have any wear on the
commutators, irrespective of age. You can look at it with an engineers
critical eye and find little to find fault with. Some of the Bosch kit
is not bad as well and even some of the Black & Decker stuff, so long as
it's been made at the Scintilla subsiduary in Switzerland, but much of
the B&D stuff is rubbish.
It's the old story - buy cheap, buy twice ...
[/quote]
I still have a B&D drill I bought in 1970. I have four or five of
them, all from the 60s though the early '80s that have seen a lot of
rough service I wore out one chuck, and several power cords. All US
made.
I thought that Makita is chinese made these days? Or is it Ryobi?
--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary! |
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| Spehro Pefhany... |
| Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:22 pm |
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Guest
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On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 14:01:39 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell at (no spam) earthlink.net> wrote:
[quote]
ChrisQ wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
That is one of the cheaper models. That is the same price as each of
the drills I bought, without the toy light or molded case. The absolute
worst cordless drills I've seen was my first one, a yellow plastic piece
of crap from Rockwell, and some 'Coleman Powermate' drills that were
given to me. They were store returns, and I've wonder if they were
actually returned, or thrown through the store windows. One had a
broken output shaft from the gearbox. The other had some wires that were
never connected. I 'fixed' that one and have seven batteries, but but
it makes anything else look good.
I know we would all like to buy kit made locally, but the very best
power tools you can buy, imho, are Makita. I have bought both new and
s/hand from machinery auctions and boot sales. The secondhand ones
always get stripped, cleaned and relubed before use and you should see
the internals. Invariably ball or roller bearings on all shafts and
generously proportioned motors, which never seem to have any wear on the
commutators, irrespective of age. You can look at it with an engineers
critical eye and find little to find fault with. Some of the Bosch kit
is not bad as well and even some of the Black & Decker stuff, so long as
it's been made at the Scintilla subsiduary in Switzerland, but much of
the B&D stuff is rubbish.
It's the old story - buy cheap, buy twice ...
I still have a B&D drill I bought in 1970. I have four or five of
them, all from the 60s though the early '80s that have seen a lot of
rough service I wore out one chuck, and several power cords. All US
made.
I thought that Makita is chinese made these days? Or is it Ryobi?
[/quote]
Makita is a Japanese company, but of course they make tools in China.
Ryobi is a bit more of a story.. they used to be Japanese, but they
now are owned by a company called TTI, which makes such brand-name
"stuff" as Homelite, Milwaukee, Rigid (for Home Depot) etc... all in
South China. Founded by a European and a Chinese fellow about 25 years
ago. |
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