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| Author |
Message |
| ... |
 Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 10:44 am |
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Hi,all.
i just want to know some opinion about this rod .
http://durafix-for-aluminum.com/index.html
they sell $38.95 (1 ibs +stainless steel brush)and $6 for shipping.
is that expensive?
Tensile Strength,lbs/sq. in. -----47000
is this okay for metal sculpture staff?
i am very new to brazing rod and gas welding.
any information on gas brazing and gas welding rod would be
appreciated.
thanks so much in advance.
Yoshi.
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| Back to top |
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| Ernie Leimkuhler... |
| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 9:02 pm |
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In article
<e0e86c90-8409-481e-b0ae-4df49f0e1a58 at (no spam) g1g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
<yoshidesigns at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
[quote:46b5ef8eea]Hi,all.
i just want to know some opinion about this rod .
http://durafix-for-aluminum.com/index.html
they sell $38.95 (1 ibs +stainless steel brush)and $6 for shipping.
is that expensive?
Tensile Strength,lbs/sq. in. -----47000
is this okay for metal sculpture staff?
i am very new to brazing rod and gas welding.
any information on gas brazing and gas welding rod would be
appreciated.
thanks so much in advance.
Yoshi.
[/quote:46b5ef8eea]
All the low temp "miracle" rods for aluminum are just a high zinc alloy
of aluminum.
They do work, just like superglue, duck tape and bailing wire "work".
They are for when "good enough" is good enough.
They have absolutely no ductility and I would suspect some serious
galvanic corrosion if exposed to the elements.
I keep the stuff around just in case I need to just patch a hole in an
aluminum tank, or repair a broken pot-metal piece.
I would never use it for a critical repair or anything even remotely
structural.
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| Back to top |
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| ... |
| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 9:26 pm |
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On May 1, 11:02 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
[quote:199c0a1915]In article
e0e86c90-8409-481e-b0ae-4df49f0e1... at (no spam) g1g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
Hi,all.
i just want to know some opinion about this rod .
http://durafix-for-aluminum.com/index.html
they sell $38.95 (1 ibs +stainless steel brush)and $6 for shipping.
is that expensive?
Tensile Strength,lbs/sq. in. -----47000
is this okay for metal sculpture staff?
i am very new to brazing rod and gas welding.
any information on gas brazing and gas welding rod would be
appreciated.
thanks so much in advance.
Yoshi.
All the low temp "miracle" rods for aluminum are just a high zinc alloy
of aluminum.
They do work, just like superglue, duck tape and bailing wire "work".
They are for when "good enough" is good enough.
They have absolutely no ductility and I would suspect some serious
galvanic corrosion if exposed to the elements.
I keep the stuff around just in case I need to just patch a hole in an
aluminum tank, or repair a broken pot-metal piece.
I would never use it for a critical repair or anything even remotely
structural.
[/quote:199c0a1915]
Ernie,
Thanks all the time...
so your other choice of aluminum welding is mig(bigger power with
220v) with spool gun or tig ,is that right ? not oxyacetilane or
stick flux core wire(messy ?) ? or do you know better brazing or
welding rod?
thanks again.
Yoshi.
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| Back to top |
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| Ernie Leimkuhler... |
| Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 5:37 pm |
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In article
<dc38623a-0d2a-4970-a81c-8e1b68b59771 at (no spam) l28g2000vba.googlegroups.com>,
<yoshidesigns at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
[quote:95fbdce702]On May 1, 11:02 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
e0e86c90-8409-481e-b0ae-4df49f0e1... at (no spam) g1g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
Hi,all.
i just want to know some opinion about this rod .
http://durafix-for-aluminum.com/index.html
they sell $38.95 (1 ibs +stainless steel brush)and $6 for shipping.
is that expensive?
Tensile Strength,lbs/sq. in. -----47000
is this okay for metal sculpture staff?
i am very new to brazing rod and gas welding.
any information on gas brazing and gas welding rod would be
appreciated.
thanks so much in advance.
Yoshi.
All the low temp "miracle" rods for aluminum are just a high zinc alloy
of aluminum.
They do work, just like superglue, duck tape and bailing wire "work".
They are for when "good enough" is good enough.
They have absolutely no ductility and I would suspect some serious
galvanic corrosion if exposed to the elements.
I keep the stuff around just in case I need to just patch a hole in an
aluminum tank, or repair a broken pot-metal piece.
I would never use it for a critical repair or anything even remotely
structural.
Ernie,
Thanks all the time...
so your other choice of aluminum welding is mig(bigger power with
220v) with spool gun or tig ,is that right ? not oxyacetilane or
stick flux core wire(messy ?) ? or do you know better brazing or
welding rod?
thanks again.
Yoshi.
[/quote:95fbdce702]
Please avoid stick welding aluminum at all cost.
If it is the only solution and aliens are going to destroy the Earth,
maybe...just maybe, I would use it.
There are more possibilities.
There is gas welding aluminum, which can be done 2 ways.
ESAB's Subsidiary Allstate makes a gas welding product for aluminum
called SEALCOR.
It consists of an aluminum alloy tube filled with a special flux.
<http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/filler_metals_catalog/filler_metals_
product_detail/q/display_id.id4367f2a9769c41.42708491/category_id.1463>
I used it years ago to weld some thin wall aluminum tube for some
speaker stands.
It does work, but takes some practice to make it look good.
Do NOT breathe the fumes from the flux.
nasty nasty nasty.
Also if you only use part of a rod, make sure to pinch the end shut
with pliers so the flux doesn't dry out.
Another option is the old fashioned method of gas welding as
resurrected by Kent White
<http://www.tinmantech.com/>
What kent did was dig up the old world war 2 Alcoa gas welding flux
formula and just take as much of the toxic stuff out as possible.
The intended application is restoration of antique cars and planes with
aluminum bodies.
This process does work.
You can either buy Kent's TM2000 welding lens or use Gold Coated
Didymium or Gold Coated Cobalt safety glasses.
All of these will cut out the orange sodium flare from the flux so you
can see the weld puddle.
I have a pair of both the Gold Coated Didymium and Gold Coated Cobalt
safety glasses.
I got mine from Oberon Safety, who appear to have a useless website, so
here is their contact info.
http://www.oberoncompany.com/contactus.php
I have part # 311-65 for the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
I think they cost around $30 each.
They are also used by glassblowers so you might find them in art supply
shops that serve glassblowers and potters.
The old fashioned Cobalt glass welding glasses for aluminum are quite
dangerous because they do not protect you from UV.
Instead of welding you can go with the very popular Brazing solution
Allstate 31 Aluminum Brazing Alloy is used extensively by refrigeration
technicians for aluminum coolant lines.
It works for a lot of other applications as well.
<http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/filler_metals_catalog/filler_metals_
product_detail/q/display_id.id4367f2a976b2f9.04496423/category_id.3143/p
ath.filler_metals_allstate_aluminum_alloy_allstate_super_31>
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| Back to top |
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| Lyndell Thompson... |
| Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 7:09 am |
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Ernie, thanks for the link on the allstate 31 brazing alloy. I am a
refrigeration tech and we have tried all that we knew was available (with
very little sucess). Also tried the epoxy etc. Will give this a shot. Small
evaporators get replaced, but on say, a 12 foot display case they get
pricey. The latest blow to the industry is the manufacturers are going to
start shipping aluminum condensers. They always have on A/C units but have
kept out of the commercial refrigeration. Due to economics etc. it is coming
our way. If a customer has $20,000 worth of ice cream dripping out of the
packages, it is a poor time to tell him you will order him a new condenser.
We had best have a way to fix it.
Thanks Lyndell
P.S. Without you going to a lot of trouble, if you know the part number or
style of this alloy the service techs use.......I would be very grateful for
the info.
snip,
Instead of welding you can go with the very popular Brazing solution
Allstate 31 Aluminum Brazing Alloy is used extensively by refrigeration
technicians for aluminum coolant lines.
It works for a lot of other applications as well.
<http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/filler_metals_catalog/filler_metals_
product_detail/q/display_id.id4367f2a976b2f9.04496423/category_id.3143/p
ath.filler_metals_allstate_aluminum_alloy_allstate_super_31>
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| Back to top |
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| Bob Engelhardt... |
| Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:52 pm |
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| Back to top |
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| ... |
| Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 4:35 pm |
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On May 2, 7:37 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
[quote:0134b3e8bb]In article
dc38623a-0d2a-4970-a81c-8e1b68b59... at (no spam) l28g2000vba.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
On May 1, 11:02 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
e0e86c90-8409-481e-b0ae-4df49f0e1... at (no spam) g1g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
Hi,all.
i just want to know some opinion about this rod .
http://durafix-for-aluminum.com/index.html
they sell $38.95 (1 ibs +stainless steel brush)and $6 for shipping.
is that expensive?
Tensile Strength,lbs/sq. in. -----47000
is this okay for metal sculpture staff?
i am very new to brazing rod and gas welding.
any information on gas brazing and gas welding rod would be
appreciated.
thanks so much in advance.
Yoshi.
All the low temp "miracle" rods for aluminum are just a high zinc alloy
of aluminum.
They do work, just like superglue, duck tape and bailing wire "work".
They are for when "good enough" is good enough.
They have absolutely no ductility and I would suspect some serious
galvanic corrosion if exposed to the elements.
I keep the stuff around just in case I need to just patch a hole in an
aluminum tank, or repair a broken pot-metal piece.
I would never use it for a critical repair or anything even remotely
structural.
Ernie,
Thanks all the time...
so your other choice of aluminum welding is mig(bigger power with
220v) with spool gun or tig ,is that right ? not oxyacetilane or
stick flux core wire(messy ?) ? or do you know better brazing or
welding rod?
thanks again.
Yoshi.
Please avoid stick welding aluminum at all cost.
If it is the only solution and aliens are going to destroy the Earth,
maybe...just maybe, I would use it.
There are more possibilities.
There is gas welding aluminum, which can be done 2 ways.
ESAB's Subsidiary Allstate makes a gas welding product for aluminum
called SEALCOR.
It consists of an aluminum alloy tube filled with a special flux.
http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/filler_metals_catalog/filler_metals_
product_detail/q/display_id.id4367f2a9769c41.42708491/category_id.1463
I used it years ago to weld some thin wall aluminum tube for some
speaker stands.
It does work, but takes some practice to make it look good.
Do NOT breathe the fumes from the flux.
nasty nasty nasty.
Also if you only use part of a rod, make sure to pinch the end shut
with pliers so the flux doesn't dry out.
Another option is the old fashioned method of gas welding as
resurrected by Kent White
http://www.tinmantech.com/
What kent did was dig up the old world war 2 Alcoa gas welding flux
formula and just take as much of the toxic stuff out as possible.
The intended application is restoration of antique cars and planes with
aluminum bodies.
This process does work.
You can either buy Kent's TM2000 welding lens or use Gold Coated
Didymium or Gold Coated Cobalt safety glasses.
All of these will cut out the orange sodium flare from the flux so you
can see the weld puddle.
I have a pair of both the Gold Coated Didymium and Gold Coated Cobalt
safety glasses.
I got mine from Oberon Safety, who appear to have a useless website, so
here is their contact info.
http://www.oberoncompany.com/contactus.php
I have part # 311-65 for the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
I think they cost around $30 each.
They are also used by glassblowers so you might find them in art supply
shops that serve glassblowers and potters.
The old fashioned Cobalt glass welding glasses for aluminum are quite
dangerous because they do not protect you from UV.
Instead of welding you can go with the very popular Brazing solution
Allstate 31 Aluminum Brazing Alloy is used extensively by refrigeration
technicians for aluminum coolant lines.
It works for a lot of other applications as well.
http://products.esabna.com/EN/home/filler_metals_catalog/filler_metals_
product_detail/q/display_id.id4367f2a976b2f9.04496423/category_id.3143/p
ath.filler_metals_allstate_aluminum_alloy_allstate_super_31
[/quote:0134b3e8bb]
thanks ,Ernie,
are you taking about this one? http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65 for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
[quote:0134b3e8bb]part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
[/quote:0134b3e8bb]
Yoshi
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| Back to top |
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| Lyndell Thompson... |
| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 6:55 pm |
|
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|
Thanks Bob, I found the "brazing aluminum tubing pdf and downloaded it. Lot
of good info.
Lyndell
"Bob Engelhardt" <bobengelhardt at (no spam) comcast.net> wrote in message
news:gtl3mv0iqu at (no spam) news1.newsguy.com...
[quote:6c7c7aa61a]Lyndell Thompson wrote:
... if you know the part number or
style of this alloy the service techs use ...
http://www.google.com/search?q=Allstate+31+Aluminum+Brazing+Alloy[/quote:6c7c7aa61a]
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| Back to top |
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| Ernie Leimkuhler... |
| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 9:25 pm |
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|
In article
<b9112542-0e4b-46c3-a6f5-53114df9e058 at (no spam) r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
<yoshidesigns at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
[quote:70f82a971c]are you taking about this one? http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65 for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
Yoshi
[/quote:70f82a971c]
As I said their website sucks ass.
Call them and ask a person.
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| Back to top |
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| ... |
| Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 7:57 pm |
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On May 4, 11:25 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
[quote:f68a593f4a]In article
b9112542-0e4b-46c3-a6f5-53114df9e... at (no spam) r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
are you taking about this one?http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65 for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
Yoshi
As I said their website sucks ass.
Call them and ask a person.
[/quote:f68a593f4a]
which one should i get ?#311-65 or #311-66 or do i need both ? how you
distinguish to use?
thanks
Yoshi.
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| Back to top |
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| ... |
| Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 8:30 pm |
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On May 8, 12:26 am, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
[quote:76b39b5f4a]In article
fc7f4819-8025-4a7f-babb-ae417be3d... at (no spam) s21g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
On May 4, 11:25 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
b9112542-0e4b-46c3-a6f5-53114df9e... at (no spam) r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
are you taking about this one?http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65 for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
Yoshi
As I said their website sucks ass.
Call them and ask a person.
which one should i get ?#311-65 or #311-66 or do i need both ? how you
distinguish to use?
thanks
Yoshi.
Cobalt is traditional, and works well.
Didymium is usually used for glass working, but also works for this.
I think the cobalts give slightly better visibility.
[/quote:76b39b5f4a]
i call oberon company and to ask item #311-65,#311-66 ,they said those
are discontinued.
then i tried other and found this http://www.visionarysupplies.com/store/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=409
how do you think of these? i email them and to ask both style but it
seems they do not have cobalt one in glasses.
thanks Ernie.
Yoshi.
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| Back to top |
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| Ernie Leimkuhler... |
| Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 10:26 pm |
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|
In article
<fc7f4819-8025-4a7f-babb-ae417be3d054 at (no spam) s21g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
<yoshidesigns at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
[quote:78315fbe3f]On May 4, 11:25 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
b9112542-0e4b-46c3-a6f5-53114df9e... at (no spam) r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
are you taking about this one?http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65 for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
Yoshi
As I said their website sucks ass.
Call them and ask a person.
which one should i get ?#311-65 or #311-66 or do i need both ? how you
distinguish to use?
thanks
Yoshi.
[/quote:78315fbe3f]
Cobalt is traditional, and works well.
Didymium is usually used for glass working, but also works for this.
I think the cobalts give slightly better visibility.
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| Back to top |
|
| Ernie Leimkuhler... |
| Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:52 am |
|
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|
|
In article
<efab738a-c029-45b3-a580-d62403aec1f6 at (no spam) o27g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>,
<yoshidesigns at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
[quote:16b8ea3c1c]On May 8, 12:26 am, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
fc7f4819-8025-4a7f-babb-ae417be3d... at (no spam) s21g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
On May 4, 11:25 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
b9112542-0e4b-46c3-a6f5-53114df9e... at (no spam) r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
are you taking about this
one?http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65 for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
Yoshi
As I said their website sucks ass.
Call them and ask a person.
which one should i get ?#311-65 or #311-66 or do i need both ? how you
distinguish to use?
thanks
Yoshi.
Cobalt is traditional, and works well.
Didymium is usually used for glass working, but also works for this.
I think the cobalts give slightly better visibility.
i call oberon company and to ask item #311-65,#311-66 ,they said those
are discontinued.
then i tried other and found this
http://www.visionarysupplies.com/store/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=409
how do you think of these? i email them and to ask both style but it
seems they do not have cobalt one in glasses.
thanks Ernie.
Yoshi.
[/quote:16b8ea3c1c]
None of those say Gold Coated so I would not use them.
Here are some UVEX Cobalts, not gold coated but they do say they block
the UV rays
<http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/Uvex-Horizon-Infra-red-Safety-Glasses-
p/aguvxs214.htm>
For gold coated didymium, try these
<http://estore.websitepros.com/1762167/-strse-232/Didymium-Safety-Glasse
s--dsh-/Detail.bok>
Or these
<http://www.hartleywilliams.com.au/flame-working-tools/flame-working-too
ls.htm>
Or these
<http://www.southernfrontstainedglass.com/product_info.php?products_id=2
848&osCsid=8d6c4b3ae24f676e2c9ae28501c6dd69>
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| Back to top |
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| ... |
| Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 5:53 am |
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On May 8, 1:52 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
[quote:f33ed08680]In article
efab738a-c029-45b3-a580-d62403aec... at (no spam) o27g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
On May 8, 12:26 am, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
fc7f4819-8025-4a7f-babb-ae417be3d... at (no spam) s21g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
On May 4, 11:25 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
b9112542-0e4b-46c3-a6f5-53114df9e... at (no spam) r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
are you taking about this
one?http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65 for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
Yoshi
As I said their website sucks ass.
Call them and ask a person.
which one should i get ?#311-65 or #311-66 or do i need both ? how you
distinguish to use?
thanks
Yoshi.
Cobalt is traditional, and works well.
Didymium is usually used for glass working, but also works for this.
I think the cobalts give slightly better visibility.
i call oberon company and to ask item #311-65,#311-66 ,they said those
are discontinued.
then i tried other and found this
http://www.visionarysupplies.com/store/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=409
how do you think of these? i email them and to ask both style but it
seems they do not have cobalt one in glasses.
thanks Ernie.
Yoshi.
None of those say Gold Coated so I would not use them.
Here are some UVEX Cobalts, not gold coated but they do say they block
the UV rays
http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/Uvex-Horizon-Infra-red-Safety-Glasses-
p/aguvxs214.htm
For gold coated didymium, try these
http://estore.websitepros.com/1762167/-strse-232/Didymium-Safety-Glasse
s--dsh-/Detail.bok
Or these
http://www.hartleywilliams.com.au/flame-working-tools/flame-working-too
ls.htm
Or these
http://www.southernfrontstainedglass.com/product_info.php?products_id=2
848&osCsid=8d6c4b3ae24f676e2c9ae28501c6dd69
[/quote:f33ed08680]
Thanks Ernie
how do you think of this? and can i use this for plasma cutting on
very thin sheet and low amp?
http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/Uvex-Horizon-Infra-red-Safety-Glasses-p/aguvxs214.htm
Yoshi
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| Back to top |
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| Ernie Leimkuhler... |
| Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 11:56 pm |
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In article
<b6461449-6528-491f-a9c9-b061171c510e at (no spam) v17g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
<yoshidesigns at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
[quote:4b226a9773]On May 8, 1:52 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
efab738a-c029-45b3-a580-d62403aec... at (no spam) o27g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
On May 8, 12:26 am, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
fc7f4819-8025-4a7f-babb-ae417be3d... at (no spam) s21g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
On May 4, 11:25 pm, Ernie Leimkuhler <er... at (no spam) stagesmith.com> wrote:
In article
b9112542-0e4b-46c3-a6f5-53114df9e... at (no spam) r36g2000vbr.googlegroups.com>,
yoshidesi... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
are you taking about this
one?http://www.oberoncompany.com/ourproducts.php
i can not find exact item # like you mention that part # 311-65
for
the Gold Coated Didymium II glasses and
part# 311-66 for the Gold Coated Cobalt II glasses.
Yoshi
As I said their website sucks ass.
Call them and ask a person.
which one should i get ?#311-65 or #311-66 or do i need both ? how you
distinguish to use?
thanks
Yoshi.
Cobalt is traditional, and works well.
Didymium is usually used for glass working, but also works for this.
I think the cobalts give slightly better visibility.
i call oberon company and to ask item #311-65,#311-66 ,they said those
are discontinued.
then i tried other and found this
http://www.visionarysupplies.com/store/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=409
how do you think of these? i email them and to ask both style but it
seems they do not have cobalt one in glasses.
thanks Ernie.
Yoshi.
None of those say Gold Coated so I would not use them.
Here are some UVEX Cobalts, not gold coated but they do say they block
the UV rays
http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/Uvex-Horizon-Infra-red-Safety-Glasses-
p/aguvxs214.htm
For gold coated didymium, try these
http://estore.websitepros.com/1762167/-strse-232/Didymium-Safety-Glasse
s--dsh-/Detail.bok
Or these
http://www.hartleywilliams.com.au/flame-working-tools/flame-working-too
ls.htm
Or these
http://www.southernfrontstainedglass.com/product_info.php?products_id=2
848&osCsid=8d6c4b3ae24f676e2c9ae28501c6dd69
Thanks Ernie
how do you think of this? and can i use this for plasma cutting on
very thin sheet and low amp?
http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/Uvex-Horizon-Infra-red-Safety-Glasses-p/aguvxs214.htm
Yoshi
[/quote:4b226a9773]
Those are the UVEX Cobalts I linked to.
They should work for hot glass work, or soldering and brazing, since
they cut the sodium flare from the flux, but for Plasma cutting they
don't block enough visible light.
#5 gas welding glasses are fine for light plasma cutting.
For heavy plasma cutting you want a welding hood with a #7 or #8 lens.
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