It is called an "axle slider". Maybe someone can correct me if wrong,
but all it looks like is a section of angle iron with spring hangers
welded on it. This seems like it would be handy when building a
trailer to "slide the assemply with the frame upside down to the exact
spot where the centerline of the axle is the same distance from the
tongue on both sides, then weld the angle.

I am just throwing out questions trying to learn. I may or may not
build this thing anytime soon but I wonder since this is a critical
weld area if I could get a piece of angle, say 2x2x3/16, have an
experiecned welder weld the bracks to the angle after I have tacked
them in the proper position, then, once the "sliders" are in the right
place, drilling and taping theangle through the bottom part of the
frame tubing, bolting it, then also welding around the angle?

By the way, I checked that metal, it is 3 inch square tubing 3/16
thick, so not as heavy stuff as I once thought but the price was right
for 10 bucks fo 4 10 feet long pieces.
Just thinking out loud here. Is there any advantage to using one of
these "sliders"?

On Apr 24, 7:31 am, stryped <stry...@hotmail.com> wrote:





It is called an "axle slider". Maybe someone can correct me if wrong,
but all it looks like is a section of angle iron with spring hangers
welded on it. This seems like it would be handy when building a
trailer to "slide the assemply with the frame upside down to the exact
spot where the centerline of the axle is the same distance from the
tongue on both sides, then weld the angle.

I am just throwing out questions trying to learn. I may or may not
build this thing anytime soon but I wonder since this is a critical
weld area if I could get a piece of angle, say 2x2x3/16, have an
experiecned welder weld the bracks to the angle after I have tacked
them in the proper position, then, once the "sliders" are in the right
place, drilling and taping theangle through the bottom part of the
frame tubing, bolting it, then also welding around the angle?

By the way, I checked that metal, it is 3 inch square tubing 3/16
thick, so not as heavy stuff as I once thought but the price was right
for 10 bucks fo 4 10 feet long pieces.
Just thinking out loud here. Is there any advantage to using one of
these "sliders"?

There is another advantage, as well as simply keeping the spring
brackets in line and supporting this higher stressed area--if these
are welded or bolted on right, then they'll also be able to be UN-
welded or bolted, and then moved if you find that you need to
reballance the trailer for some reason--like you decide to cut off 2'
or add heavy folding ramps at the back end.  I think they're an
excellent idea.
  --Glenn Lyford- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Does my idea of drilling and taping the 3/16 tubing for the frame seem
like it is doable and will be strong enough to hold?

Speaking of back gates, if a person added one later and it was heavy,
I assume you would need to move the axle even farther back to the rear?

Does my idea of drilling and taping the 3/16 tubing for the frame seem
like it is doable and will be strong enough to hold?

I'd be worried about it.  I'd be more likely to weld a nut on the
angle and go through both sides of the tube.

Does my idea of drilling and taping the 3/16 tubing for the frame seem
like it is doable and will be strong enough to hold?

I'd be worried about it.  I'd be more likely to weld a nut on the
angle and go through both sides of the tube.

Speaking of back gates, if a person added one later and it was heavy,
I assume you would need to move the axle even farther back to the rear?

Yes.

  --Glenn Lyford

Does my idea of drilling and taping the 3/16 tubing for the frame seem
like it is doable and will be strong enough to hold?

I'd be worried about it.  I'd be more likely to weld a nut on the
angle and go through both sides of the tube.

To add: the most force here is the weight of the trailer and load
straight down, keeping the tube resting on the angle.  The joint is
then only involved in keeping the pieces from sliding, which is why I
think you can get away with bolting this joint.  Also, the hole
through the middle of the angle will be about 1" up, where the bolted
joint is getting some support from the tube wall perpendicular to the
two side walls the bolt is going through, making it less likely to
crush.  If you can look for other places like this in your
construction where the bolt or weld is not taking the whole force but
is merely keeping pieces in place, you're better off.

  --Glenn Lyford

Would drilling a hole in the center of the spring hanger and bolting
just the spring hanger to the trailer tubing be a good/bad idea?

"stryped" <stry...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:2b63c8a5-0d76-4ab8-98aa-41c99bffa32a@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

Would drilling a hole in the center of the spring hanger and bolting
 just the spring hanger to the trailer tubing be a good/bad idea?

Welded on the surfaces parallel to the lentgh of the trailer only.

http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/6-8K%20Catalog/Leaf_spring_instal...

Here's the Dexter Axle service manual for common axles:http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/6-8K_Service_Manual_3-08/600-8K_C...

Also, check this out:http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Design_Considerations.pdf

Study up, quiz on Monday!

stryped wrote:
Where did you see that about only welding the parallel surfaces? I
could not find that.

Is it still a good idea to have the brakets welded to a piece of 2 x2
3/16 angle then weld the angle to the frame? Would the "weld only the
pareallel surfaces to the frame" still apply?

I read it in some Dexter info when I built my trailer.  It's somewhere on
the site.  The hanger brackets will probably be 3/16" or 1/4" steel.  I'd
go with an angle thickness of 50% or greater.  Lots of stress on potholes.

--
John L. Weatherly

please remove XXXs to reply via email

Where did you see that about only welding the parallel surfaces? I
could not find that.

Is it still a good idea to have the brakets welded to a piece of 2 x2
3/16 angle then weld the angle to the frame? Would the "weld only the
pareallel surfaces to the frame" still apply?

What kind of trailer did you build?
(Warning: BIG pictures)

So if 50% 3/16 would be ok? Maybe I should not use angle?

Let the flames rise about not removing the head...now.

Let the flames rise about not removing the head...now.

?!?? I can understand on a turret head, with the head way out on the
end of the overarm, but for a CNC? Why?

Note to Stryped: notice what he's using for hold downs--straps are
nice, the 3" ones hold pretty good, but when you really need to keep a
few tons in place, there's nothing like chains...
--Glenn Lyford

Why didn't I, or why was I worried about it?