On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 08:00:32 -0400, John Husvar wrote:

In article <jdwmcaz312iw$.1b8fo01aex92g.dlg@40tude.net>,
Balders <steve.bonnett@NObaesystems.com.SPAM> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:


Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?

Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone to machine a keyway
into the pulley :'(

Eh, beg pardon. Why? Wasn't it the shaft keyway that was enlarged? The
pulley won't care where it lines up with the key or am I missing
something?

Ahhh, very sorry John. I didn't say there's the cambelt/ign sensor drive
pulley directly behind this one so no going 180° out
Both pulleys have a slot in them. There's only one woodruff key which spans
(just about) both pulleys. The key is approx 1/2" across its flat -
miniscule compaired to the pulleys.

It's the key slot in the crank that I need to be able to repair properly
now.
Instead of having parallel sides it's more like this (ASCII art time)

\ |
\ |
|_|

It's also in situ, to strip and get machined wouldn't be worth the grief. A
2nd hand engine would be a better option after the "weld the bugger on"
option.

Thanks for the replies so far, much appreciated

Balders wrote:

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 08:00:32 -0400, John Husvar wrote:

In article <jdwmcaz312iw$.1b8fo01aex92g.dlg@40tude.net>,
Balders <steve.bonnett@NObaesystems.com.SPAM> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:


Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?

Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone to machine a keyway
into the pulley :'(

Eh, beg pardon. Why? Wasn't it the shaft keyway that was enlarged? The
pulley won't care where it lines up with the key or am I missing
something?

Ahhh, very sorry John. I didn't say there's the cambelt/ign sensor drive
pulley directly behind this one so no going 180° out
Both pulleys have a slot in them. There's only one woodruff key which spans
(just about) both pulleys. The key is approx 1/2" across its flat -
miniscule compaired to the pulleys.

It's the key slot in the crank that I need to be able to repair properly
now.
Instead of having parallel sides it's more like this (ASCII art time)

\ |
\ |
|_|

It's also in situ, to strip and get machined wouldn't be worth the grief. A
2nd hand engine would be a better option after the "weld the bugger on"
option.

Thanks for the replies so far, much appreciated

I would clean the keyway well, put an isolator on the side of a new key,
perhaps thin tape so the key will be removable, install the key and fill
the buggered gap with JB Weld (filled epoxy) and let cure. Reinstall the
pulleys, apply thread locker to the nut and sock it down tight. I'd
expect it to last for years that way.

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 08:00:32 -0400, John Husvar wrote:

In article <jdwmcaz312iw$.1b8fo01aex92g.dlg@40tude.net>,
Balders <steve.bonnett@NObaesystems.com.SPAM> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:


Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?

Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone to machine a keyway
into the pulley :'(

Eh, beg pardon. Why? Wasn't it the shaft keyway that was enlarged? The
pulley won't care where it lines up with the key or am I missing
something?

Ahhh, very sorry John. I didn't say there's the cambelt/ign sensor drive
pulley directly behind this one so no going 180° out
Both pulleys have a slot in them. There's only one woodruff key which
spans
(just about) both pulleys. The key is approx 1/2" across its flat -
miniscule compaired to the pulleys.

It's the key slot in the crank that I need to be able to repair properly
now.
Instead of having parallel sides it's more like this (ASCII art time)

\ |
\ |
|_|

It's also in situ, to strip and get machined wouldn't be worth the grief.
A
2nd hand engine would be a better option after the "weld the bugger on"
option.

Thanks for the replies so far, much appreciated
I have always thought that woodruff keys were generally only intended to

Balders wrote:

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 08:00:32 -0400, John Husvar wrote:

In article <>,
Balders <> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:


Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?

Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone
to machine a keyway
into the pulley :'(

Eh, beg pardon. Why? Wasn't it the shaft keyway that
was enlarged? The
pulley won't care where it lines up with the key or am
I missing
something?

Ahhh, very sorry John. I didn't say there's the
cambelt/ign sensor drive
pulley directly behind this one so no going 180° out
Both pulleys have a slot in them. There's only one
woodruff key which spans
(just about) both pulleys. The key is approx 1/2" across
its flat -
miniscule compaired to the pulleys.

It's the key slot in the crank that I need to be able to
repair properly
now.
Instead of having parallel sides it's more like this
(ASCII art time)

\ |
\ |
|_|

It's also in situ, to strip and get machined wouldn't be
worth the grief. A
2nd hand engine would be a better option after the "weld
the bugger on"
option.

Thanks for the replies so far, much appreciated

I would clean the keyway well, put an isolator on the side
of a new key,
perhaps thin tape so the key will be removable, install
the key and fill
the buggered gap with JB Weld (filled epoxy) and let cure.
Reinstall the
pulleys, apply thread locker to the nut and sock it down
tight. I'd
expect it to last for years that way.

"Balders" <steve.bonnett@baesystemsNOspam.com> wrote in message
news:1l2l16f3ai0nx.1trv7a7g09b59$.dlg@40tude.net...
On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 08:00:32 -0400, John Husvar wrote:

In article <jdwmcaz312iw$.1b8fo01aex92g.dlg@40tude.net>,
Balders <steve.bonnett@NObaesystems.com.SPAM> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:26:44 GMT, Grant Erwin wrote:


Mill a woodruff slot on the other side of the shaft?

Too easy to get wrong, I'd also have to get someone to machine a keyway
into the pulley :'(

Eh, beg pardon. Why? Wasn't it the shaft keyway that was enlarged? The
pulley won't care where it lines up with the key or am I missing
something?

Ahhh, very sorry John. I didn't say there's the cambelt/ign sensor drive
pulley directly behind this one so no going 180° out
Both pulleys have a slot in them. There's only one woodruff key which
spans
(just about) both pulleys. The key is approx 1/2" across its flat -
miniscule compaired to the pulleys.

It's the key slot in the crank that I need to be able to repair properly
now.
Instead of having parallel sides it's more like this (ASCII art time)

\ |
\ |
|_|

It's also in situ, to strip and get machined wouldn't be worth the grief.
A
2nd hand engine would be a better option after the "weld the bugger on"
option.

Thanks for the replies so far, much appreciated
I have always thought that woodruff keys were generally only intended to
index parts and not to drive them. I would certainly look into some form of
better security for the pulleys if this is a common failure.

Don Young

It is quite common to see the setup the O.P. described - a single

index parts and not to drive them. I would certainly look into some form
of
better security for the pulleys if this is a common failure.

Don Young

It is quite common to see the setup the O.P. described - a single
woodruff key in the nose of a crankshaft. I've got a couple of Peugeot
diesels in a boat built exactly that way and they are at least twenty
years old.

Of course they all have a Big Bolt to hold things together that should
be as tight as you can get it.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct email address for reply)
I agree, I have experience with woodruff keyed crankshaft pulleys. As you

Hi guys

Wondered if someone might have some pointers for me on how to repair a
woodruff (are they called this in the US? Half-moon shaped disk) keyway on
a steel shaft.

Background:
Crankshaft is steel
Woodruff key is approx 5mm thick (3/8ths I think)

The alternator pulley bolt (on end of C/shaft) became loose and allowed the
pulley to chatter. Unfortunately this has allowed the key to chatter too &
has opened out the keyway slightly.

I took the pulley, preheated with a MAPP gas blowtorch, zapped it with the
MIG and allowed it to cool. I then spent a fair while with needle files
re-dressing the keyway. (Heavy pulley 110A 240V mig, C25 mix)

How might I be able to repair the crank? It will have to be done in situ.
Would hitting it with MAPP, MIG and careful use of a Dremmel suffice?
(I wondered about making a copper key to give me a non-stick surface to
weld up to.)

I really don't want to weld a key in permanently

I've used Quicksteel for the time being.

Thanks

Hi guys

Wondered if someone might have some pointers for me on how to
repair a
woodruff (are they called this in the US? Half-moon shaped disk)
keyway on
a steel shaft.

Background:
Crankshaft is steel
Woodruff key is approx 5mm thick (3/8ths I think)

The alternator pulley bolt (on end of C/shaft) became loose and
allowed the
pulley to chatter. Unfortunately this has allowed the key to
chatter too &
has opened out the keyway slightly.

I took the pulley, preheated with a MAPP gas blowtorch, zapped
it with the
MIG and allowed it to cool. I then spent a fair while with
needle files
re-dressing the keyway. (Heavy pulley 110A 240V mig, C25 mix)

How might I be able to repair the crank? It will have to be done
in situ.
Would hitting it with MAPP, MIG and careful use of a Dremmel
suffice?
(I wondered about making a copper key to give me a non-stick
surface to
weld up to.)

I really don't want to weld a key in permanently

I've used Quicksteel for the time being.

Thanks

it in the slot.

I had very good luck and excellent service on a piece a bit
similar. I had a large stick of carbon that I was able to shape
into the "has to fit" part that allowed me to MIG a repair. I
would think it would give you good results. Easy to file and
shape, a large Universal motor brush might work for your needs.