I have an old propane tank that I want to turn into a gas forge.

I have the burner, gauge, regulator, and hose. All I need is to
fabricated the forge.

My plan was to get the valve off the tank and let it sit outside for a
couple of days, then rinse it out with water, and take a cutting disk
and/or torch to it. However, I can't get the dang valve off it.

Should I try penetrating oil to loosen the threads? Should I punch a
hole in it with a centre punch or something?

I really do NOT want to send myself (or anyone else) into oblivion.
So before I do something, I wanted to see if anyone here has
successfully accomplished similar.

rvb

--
As Iron Sharpens Iron,
So One Man Sharpens Another.
Proverbs 27:17

Rick Barter (rvb) wrote:

I have an old propane tank that I want to turn into a gas forge.

I have the burner, gauge, regulator, and hose. All I need is to
fabricated the forge.

My plan was to get the valve off the tank and let it sit outside for a
couple of days, then rinse it out with water, and take a cutting disk
and/or torch to it. However, I can't get the dang valve off it.

Should I try penetrating oil to loosen the threads? Should I punch a
hole in it with a centre punch or something?

I really do NOT want to send myself (or anyone else) into oblivion.
So before I do something, I wanted to see if anyone here has
successfully accomplished similar.

Long cheater bar on a pipe wrench ?

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Rick Barter (rvb) wrote:
I have an old propane tank that I want to turn into a gas forge.

I have the burner, gauge, regulator, and hose. All I need is to
fabricated the forge.

My plan was to get the valve off the tank and let it sit outside for a
couple of days, then rinse it out with water, and take a cutting disk
and/or torch to it. However, I can't get the dang valve off it.

Should I try penetrating oil to loosen the threads? Should I punch a
hole in it with a centre punch or something?

I really do NOT want to send myself (or anyone else) into oblivion.
So before I do something, I wanted to see if anyone here has
successfully accomplished similar.

rvb

--
As Iron Sharpens Iron,
So One Man Sharpens Another.
Proverbs 27:17


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

Rick Barter (rvb) wrote:

I have an old propane tank that I want to turn into a gas forge.

I have the burner, gauge, regulator, and hose. All I need is to
fabricated the forge.

My plan was to get the valve off the tank and let it sit outside for a
couple of days, then rinse it out with water, and take a cutting disk
and/or torch to it. However, I can't get the dang valve off it.

Should I try penetrating oil to loosen the threads? Should I punch a
hole in it with a centre punch or something?

I really do NOT want to send myself (or anyone else) into oblivion.
So before I do something, I wanted to see if anyone here has
successfully accomplished similar.

Absolutely. I even wrote it up. See:http://www.tinyisland.com/LPvalveRemoval.html

Enjoy

On Mon, 07 Apr 2008 21:38:33 -0500, "Martin H. Eastburn"
lionslair@consolidated.net> wrote:

Long cheater bar on a pipe wrench ?

Martin

Pretty much what it takes, based on the ones Ive done over the years.

About a 4' snipe actually.

Gunner

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Rick Barter (rvb) wrote:
I have an old propane tank that I want to turn into a gas forge.

I have the burner, gauge, regulator, and hose. All I need is to
fabricated the forge.

My plan was to get the valve off the tank and let it sit outside for a
couple of days, then rinse it out with water, and take a cutting disk
and/or torch to it. However, I can't get the dang valve off it.

Should I try penetrating oil to loosen the threads? Should I punch a
hole in it with a centre punch or something?

I really do NOT want to send myself (or anyone else) into oblivion.
So before I do something, I wanted to see if anyone here has
successfully accomplished similar.

rvb

--
As Iron Sharpens Iron,
So One Man Sharpens Another.
Proverbs 27:17

----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---


"[L]iberals are afraid to state what they truly believe in, for to do so
would result in even less votes than they currently receive. Their
methodology is to lie about their real agenda in the hopes of regaining
power, at which point they will do whatever they damn well please. The
problem is they have concealed and obfuscated for so long that, as a group,
they themselves are no longer sure of their goals. They are a collection of
wild-eyed splinter groups, all holding a grab-bag of dreams and wishes. Some
want a Socialist, secular-humanist state, others the repeal of the Second
Amendment. Some want same sex/different species marriage, others want voting
rights for trees, fish, coal and bugs. Some want cradle to grave care and
complete subservience to the government nanny state, others want a culture
that walks in lockstep and speaks only with intonations of political
correctness. I view the American liberals in much the same way I view the
competing factions of Islamic
fundamentalists. The latter hate each other to the core, and only join
forces to attack the US or Israel. The former hate themselves to the core,
and only join forces to attack George Bush and conservatives." --Ron Marr

Using O-A to cut the tank may introduce oxygen into the tank & be
unpleasant. DO NOT DO THIS.
HTH,
Bob

"Bob Engelhardt" <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote

Using O-A to cut the tank may introduce oxygen into the tank & be
unpleasant. DO NOT DO THIS.
HTH,
Bob

Is oxygen, once it has been involved in a combustion process, still oxygen
or does it change to a COMPOUND? I must have been asleep that day in
chemistry.

Steve

"Bob Engelhardt" <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote

Using O-A to cut the tank may introduce oxygen into the tank & be
unpleasant. DO NOT DO THIS.
HTH,
Bob

Is oxygen, once it has been involved in a combustion process, still oxygen
or does it change to a COMPOUND? I must have been asleep that day in
chemistry.

Steve

I welded with it last night. I'm going to paint the outside vertical
surfaces of the channel trailer red as soon as this wind quits. Also some
of the International red here and there as per Lincoln color scheme. Then
Black gloss for rims, tongue, and a couple of other things. I need to drag
it to Vegas, as either the printed circuit board or the high idle/regular
idle switch or solenoid isn't working. Did get the info from Lincoln that
it runs at 2300 RPM, so can get a tach and run it there until I get the
electronics fixed. Need to get a motor manual for the Continental, but they
are priced through the roof, and a lot of them are just printouts or copied
versions, and fuzzy. I am involved in a stair rail making project at our
church right now, so that all will happen in a couple of weeks. It's coming
along.

Steve

On Thu, 10 Apr 2008 21:23:38 -0800, SteveB wrote:

"Bob Engelhardt" <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote

Using O-A to cut the tank may introduce oxygen into the tank & be
unpleasant. DO NOT DO THIS.
HTH,
Bob

Is oxygen, once it has been involved in a combustion process, still
oxygen
or does it change to a COMPOUND? I must have been asleep that day in
chemistry.

Steve

If it stayed as oxygen you could reuse it ;)

It generally bonds to the carbon making CO2 or to the hydrogen making
dihydrogen mononoxide.

BTW Dihydrogen Monoxide can be fatal in many ways ;)

(PS Loving your adventures with the Sally.)

*Goes back to lurking & learning*

I welded with it last night. I'm going to paint the outside vertical
surfaces of the channel trailer red as soon as this wind quits. Also
some of the International red here and there as per Lincoln color scheme.
Then Black gloss for rims, tongue, and a couple of other things. I need
to drag it to Vegas, as either the printed circuit board or the high
idle/regular idle switch or solenoid isn't working. Did get the info
from Lincoln that it runs at 2300 RPM, so can get a tach and run it there
until I get the electronics fixed. Need to get a motor manual for the
Continental, but they are priced through the roof, and a lot of them are
just printouts or copied versions, and fuzzy. I am involved in a stair
rail making project at our church right now, so that all will happen in a
couple of weeks. It's coming along.

Steve

The weld idle control is often gone on old welders. It isn't really part
of
the welder, and it isn't really part of the engine either. I am always
amazed
at how poorly they are designed and how enormous the parts replacement
costs
are.

Grant

If the valve needs to be off for the tank's new use, then do it. If it's
because you think that it has to come off in order to safely cut the tank,
it doesn't. I've cut up plenty of tanks by simply doing it - they do not
need to be purged! PROVIDING that an O-A torch is NOT used to do the
cutting.

A propane tank does not have any oxygen in it, so the propane cannot burn
in the tank. It may burn as it comes out the cutting kerf, but very
quietly. I once drilled a hole in an empty propane tank and held a match
to the hole, to convince my cautious stepson that it was safe. The result
was a very languid flame, like a small candle.

Using O-A to cut the tank may introduce oxygen into the tank & be
unpleasant. DO NOT DO THIS.

What I do is start the cut with a cut-off disk in an angle grinder and
finish with a metal cutting blade in a Sawzall. Very fast.

When somebody says "I do this, and this, and this to clean the tank and
I've never had a problem", I believe them. It's just that it's not
necessary.

HTH,
Bob

"Bob Engelhardt" <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2radnYbbGdApPWPanZ2dnUVZ_qainZ2d@comcast.com...
If the valve needs to be off for the tank's new use, then do it. If it's
because you think that it has to come off in order to safely cut the
tank,
it doesn't. I've cut up plenty of tanks by simply doing it - they do not
need to be purged! PROVIDING that an O-A torch is NOT used to do the
cutting.

A propane tank does not have any oxygen in it, so the propane cannot burn
in the tank. It may burn as it comes out the cutting kerf, but very
quietly. I once drilled a hole in an empty propane tank and held a match
to the hole, to convince my cautious stepson that it was safe. The result
was a very languid flame, like a small candle.

Using O-A to cut the tank may introduce oxygen into the tank & be
unpleasant. DO NOT DO THIS.

What I do is start the cut with a cut-off disk in an angle grinder and
finish with a metal cutting blade in a Sawzall. Very fast.

When somebody says "I do this, and this, and this to clean the tank and
I've never had a problem", I believe them. It's just that it's not
necessary.

HTH,
Bob


I am not going to comment or argue with the science? of this logic but
rather with the SAFETY attitude that it expresses.

In the bad old days there were LOTS of people injured and killed as a
result
of poor practices when welding and cutting on vessels and containers which
have held combustible substances. I have done my share of 'hot taps' into
'in service' gas lines and various tank repairs and modifications, and I
have lived to tell of them but, I have learned that it is not the expected
that bites you but it is the unexpected or unrecognized thing that you
were
not aware of.

I have turned down lots of requests from customers who wanted
me to weld on gas tanks without proper precaution. They always have
stories
about someone who did it all the time by just filling them with exhaust,
but
the bottom line is always that they did not want to do the job themselves
and they did not want to pay the cost of doing the job safely. It is
interesting that the most dangerous requests always seem to involve
working
with stuff that is not worth very much, or on projects that are also not
very valuable or worthwhile.

When attempting to weld on tanks filled with exhaust we are hoping that
the
engine was operating at 100% combustion efficiency and when we cut into an
old scrap propane tank we are hoping that nobody used it as a small carry
air tank.

Every winter we get more reports of deaths caused by someone using a torch
to thaw the frozen lock on the door of a tool box that contains a leaky
torch or fuel gas bottle. This has been occurring for as long as I have
been in the trade but it continues to happen regularly.

When we work on big jobs, there are firm safety systems in place to ensure
that all work is done in a safe manner. We have layers of safety
administration and training and firm policies on how safety issues are to
be
dealt with. We wear ALL the proper personal protective gear and unsafe
practice will earn us a quick ride to the gate. It is when we are working
independently or for small gypo operators that we are at the greatest risk
as there is constant pressure to do the job as fast and as cheaply as
possible and safety is considered just too expensive to pay more than lip
service to.

The big jobs have learned from hard experience that 'If you think safety
is
too expensive, just try having an accident.'

Risk management is not about thinking (or hoping) that you are probably
safe, it is about ensuring that you have eliminated ALL the risks that
could
have harmful consequences.

Always remember Murphy's Law,
'If it can, then it will.'
and
'It is easy to cheat death, but death's advantage is that it only has to
win
once.'

'Be thankful of good luck, but don't count on it.'