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Bob Engelhardt
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:18 pm
Guest
Tom M wrote:
Quote:
"Ignoramus10476" <ignoramus10476@NOSPAM.10476.invalid> wrote in message
... cables and measure voltage drop,...

This is really good advise. I would get an analog voltmeter and measure the
voltage drop just across the work lead. ...

Easy, cheap, and accurate.

Cheap, for sure. Not as easy as an ammeter. Not very much accurate,
I'd say. You have unknown accuracy in the wire guage, unknown
resistance in the cable connections and in the clamps. Analog meters
are hard to read precisely and are only accurate to a couple of percent.

Bob

And don't start with "The OP doesn't need more accuracy than that". I'm
responding to the statement that it would be "accurate".
Tom M
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:30 pm
Guest
"Bob Engelhardt" <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:KJOdnUQvBI58GnPanZ2dnUVZ_hisnZ2d@comcast.com...
Quote:
Tom M wrote:
"Ignoramus10476" <ignoramus10476@NOSPAM.10476.invalid> wrote in message
... cables and measure voltage drop,...

This is really good advise. I would get an analog voltmeter and measure
the voltage drop just across the work lead. ...

Easy, cheap, and accurate.

Cheap, for sure. Not as easy as an ammeter. Not very much accurate, I'd
say. You have unknown accuracy in the wire guage, unknown resistance in
the cable connections and in the clamps. Analog meters are hard to read
precisely and are only accurate to a couple of percent.

Bob

And don't start with "The OP doesn't need more accuracy than that". I'm
responding to the statement that it would be "accurate".

And a couple of percent isn't accurate enough for a stick welder?

How about the digital clamp on ammeter working with the high RF environment
of an arc?

Who said the measurement would be made beyond the connectors? You?

Four place resistance figures for the cable aren't accurate enough? Its
easy to see an analog meter and integrate out all the variations with an
unstable DC arc. Seems you have never tried to measure the current of a DC
welder.

Stop picking nits.

Tom
Bob Engelhardt
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:34 pm
Guest
Tom M wrote:
Quote:
And a couple of percent isn't accurate enough for a stick welder?

How about the digital clamp on ammeter working with the high RF environment
of an arc?

Who said the measurement would be made beyond the connectors? You?

Four place resistance figures for the cable aren't accurate enough? Its
easy to see an analog meter and integrate out all the variations with an
unstable DC arc. Seems you have never tried to measure the current of a DC
welder.

Stop picking nits.

Jeez, calm down.
Michael A. Terrell
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:34 pm
Guest
Gunner wrote:
Quote:

Really? Fry's Electronics
Big box store to the nerds?

Ill check there myself. Id like to have one.


Why do you want a nerd? Cats are a lot easier to take care of. ;-)


--
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Tom M
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:36 pm
Guest
"Bob Engelhardt" <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:KJOdnUcvBI5cFnPanZ2dnUVZ_hjinZ2d@comcast.com...
Quote:
Tom M wrote:
And a couple of percent isn't accurate enough for a stick welder?

How about the digital clamp on ammeter working with the high RF
environment of an arc?

Who said the measurement would be made beyond the connectors? You?

Four place resistance figures for the cable aren't accurate enough? Its
easy to see an analog meter and integrate out all the variations with an
unstable DC arc. Seems you have never tried to measure the current of a
DC welder.

Stop picking nits.

Jeez, calm down.

Sorry. forgot the Smile
Ignoramus10476
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:23 pm
Guest
On 2008-03-29, Bob Engelhardt <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote:
Quote:
Tom M wrote:
"Ignoramus10476" <ignoramus10476@NOSPAM.10476.invalid> wrote in message
... cables and measure voltage drop,...

This is really good advise. I would get an analog voltmeter and measure the
voltage drop just across the work lead. ...

Easy, cheap, and accurate.

Cheap, for sure. Not as easy as an ammeter. Not very much accurate,
I'd say. You have unknown accuracy in the wire guage, unknown
resistance in the cable connections and in the clamps. Analog meters
are hard to read precisely and are only accurate to a couple of percent.

You need to measure from lug to lug. A couple of percent accuracy is
more than appropriate.

i
RoyJ
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 7:12 pm
Guest
What the other's said about measuring with a voltmeter and a longer
cable. Just clamp one voltmeter probe onto either the stinger or ground
clamp, the other voltmeter probe onto the other end of the same cable.
You can extend the voltmeter probes using any wire that is handy. The
voltmeter draws negligible current so the voltage drop in the probe
wires is negligible.

You should check the current at several points in the scale. Be prepared
for some funny readings. It's unlikely that the actual current is as
nicely behaved as the settings on the panel would suggest.

SteveB wrote:
Quote:
I'm picking up the radiator for the SA 200 Monday, and will be painting and
reassembling according to the wind speed over the next couple of weeks.
When I get the old gal running, I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld, and then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is there another type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine? I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the controls
indicate. I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg. I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve

Martin H. Eastburn
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:43 pm
Guest
And be sure to know how to hook up the clamp. Number of loops or ...

Would be nice to have a known or close to known load first as a tryout.

Then you won't be reading 1/2 or 2x readings and think they are 1x.

Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Grant Erwin wrote:
Quote:
SteveB wrote:
I'm picking up the radiator for the SA 200 Monday, and will be
painting and reassembling according to the wind speed over the next
couple of weeks. When I get the old gal running, I'd like to do a
check on the output through the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld,
and then weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is
there another type of tester I should use just on the main lugs off
the machine? I'm just trying to see if the output is good, and is
within the range of the controls indicate. I will be using 50' leads
of #1 cable on each leg. I will be using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat
position, and making a dime size pool, and trying to burn thirty
seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats,
tips, procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve


You need a clamp-on DC ammeter, else sure, have someone read the current.

Grant


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Martin H. Eastburn
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:48 pm
Guest
You could use a high current shunt kind - they are real time so you have to
watch... cut the lead, make two lugs to the ends and use the lugs to attach
to the ammeter. When not using that - one could get a conduit box or the like
and have the two wires coming on either end and the lugs bolted together and
taped...

Good (there are inexpensive ones that are good enough) clamp meters now use
Hall effect devices to measure DC. Many AC ones do as well.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Gunner wrote:
Quote:
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 00:29:57 -0600, "SteveB" <oldfart@flatulence.com
wrote:

I'm picking up the radiator for the SA 200 Monday, and will be painting and
reassembling according to the wind speed over the next couple of weeks.
When I get the old gal running, I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld, and then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is there another type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine? I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the controls
indicate. I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg. I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve

Unless you have a DC amp clamp..you cant do it. Most ammeters using
inductince to read current, are AC only. Your machine is DC only.

Put a volt meter across the leads, see what it says. Have your helper
read it while welding.

Frankly..I consider the dials on most welders to be only a a way to
figure out what the needle was pointing at the last time it worked
good. Then I use a grease pencil to make a mark for the size/type of
rod it worked well at.

Now there is "shunt ammeters" but I dont have a clue how to hook one
up for your rig.

Just wire wheel some of your scrap, grab a mixture of rod, and burn
it. Set it at what the dial says..then adjust up or down as needed for
each rod.



Gunner


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Richard J Kinch
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 10:39 pm
Guest
SteveB writes:

Quote:
Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp?

Auto parts stores have an inexpensive DC ammeter you just hold over the
lead. Used for measuring starter current draws.
Bruce L. Bergman
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:45 pm
Guest
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 22:39:21 -0500, Richard J Kinch wrote:
Quote:
SteveB writes:

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp?

Auto parts stores have an inexpensive DC ammeter you just hold over the
lead. Used for measuring starter current draws.

Yeah they work, but they are not very accurate - that's why they are
cheap, they are only accurate enough for the intended job. Within 25
amps either way is plenty close enough to find a bad starter...

If you want something halfway accurate and repeatable (and perhaps
even with traceable metrology calibration) you'll need either a
Hall-effect clamp-amp that reads DC Current (or an accessory clamp
with a good multimeter), or an inline shunt and meter movement set.

--<< Bruce >>--
Ignoramus7016
Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:04 pm
Guest
Steve, if the amperage dial is calibrated properly, you should have a
great time welding 1/8" 7018 at 125 amp setting, especially horizontal.

If that is the case, I would say, to hell with shunts and ammeters.

i
Grant Erwin
Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:43 pm
Guest
Ignoramus7016 wrote:
Quote:
Steve, if the amperage dial is calibrated properly, you should have a
great time welding 1/8" 7018 at 125 amp setting, especially horizontal.

If that is the case, I would say, to hell with shunts and ammeters.

i

See, now, the machine I welded on when I passed my vertical & overhead 7018
certs, if you set it to 125 amps the rod would be glowing red. More like
108.

Machines do vary.

Grant
SteveB
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:20 am
Guest
"Ernie Leimkuhler" <stagesmith@mindspring.com> wrote

Quote:

I have an Extech Ammeter that reads AC and DC amps.
It cost me $85 at Fry's Electronics.

It works great, and is fairly compact.

I'm actually not as concerned about the exact number output as much as I
want to know if this old machine will still weld what I want to burn long
enough to pay for itself, and get me going without having to fork over twice
as much for a new one.

Since I'm getting replies all over the map on this one, I have decided to do
the following:

Get some of the rods of diameters I'm going to be welding with. 7018, 6010
and 6011, 1/8" and 3/32". Set the settings at the suggested amperage.
Weld, and see how they run. Then intentionally crank the settings up or
down from the accepted parameters, and see how they act.

I got back home today after a few days in Gomorrah taking care of some
things. I'll go pick up the radiator tomorrow, and if this wind will stop
for a few days, I'll get old Sally painted. In the meantime, there's power
washing at the car wash, WetOrDry sanding, and getting some new medium grade
bolts to put all the shrouding back on. (They had put it all back on with
soft Home Depot grade bolts.) Maybe make the tumbler for the gas tank out
of the barbecue spit turner I have .......... something to burn up a few
days of doodling.

Put it up on blocks and maybe go get some new tires. Get a new tongue where
the lock for the ball works. Torch off the old one. Look for some fenders
locally, although Northern Tools have some I like that have skirts in the
back that would bolt on better. Locate some decent lights. Send off for an
official Lincoln decal package.

I'm having some fun getting this old bucket running again. Pictures will be
available when I'm done. I'm into it about $800 right now.

Steve
Gunner Asch
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 2:23 am
Guest
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 21:20:41 -0800, "SteveB"
<pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote:

Quote:
Since I'm getting replies all over the map on this one, I have decided to do
the following:

Get some of the rods of diameters I'm going to be welding with. 7018, 6010
and 6011, 1/8" and 3/32". Set the settings at the suggested amperage.
Weld, and see how they run. Then intentionally crank the settings up or
down from the accepted parameters, and see how they act.


You are welcome.

Gunner



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner
 
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