..., I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp?  Set it up to weld, and then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead?  Is there another type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine?  I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the controls
indicate.  I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg.  I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting.  Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea?  Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve

I'm picking up the radiator for the SA 200 Monday, and will be painting and
reassembling according to the wind speed over the next couple of weeks.
When I get the old gal running, I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld, and then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is there another type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine? I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the controls
indicate. I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg. I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve

I'm picking up the radiator for the SA 200 Monday, and will be painting and
reassembling according to the wind speed over the next couple of weeks.
When I get the old gal running, I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld, and then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is there another type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine? I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the controls
indicate. I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg. I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve

Unless you have a DC amp clamp..you cant do it. Most ammeters using

"Jim Wilkins" <KB1...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:947692e0-f873-4d5b-90a1-cca3eee7a8c6@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 29, 2:29 am, "SteveB" <oldf...@flatulence.com> wrote:





..., I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld, and
then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is there another
type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine? I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the
controls
indicate. I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg. I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve

You could use an automotive starting/charging current meter, which is
a simple DC magnetic meter with grooves on the back for the wire. They
^^^^^^^
aren't very accurate but you just place it on the lead. The one I have
reads charging current to 75A with 5A graduations, or 400A starting
current to 25A.

6013 or 7014 rod (and maybe 7018, haven't tried it) will weld by
itself if laid flat on the work, then you could let go and read the
meter.

I'd be more concerned with maximum AC line current.

Jim Wilkins

This machine is DC only.

Unless you have a DC amp clamp..you cant do it. Most ammeters using
inductince to read current, are AC only. ...

Gunner wrote:
Unless you have a DC amp clamp..you cant do it. Most ammeters using
inductince to read current, are AC only. ...

My Fluke does DC amps. Has a "Max" mode too, where it remembers the max
current - you wouldn't need a helper to read the meter while you're welding.

Bob

You could use a shunt type meter. The most common meter standard for
these are 50 millivolts. You will need a meter movement and a shunt
covering the maximum current you will be reading. The shunt should be
placed in series with either welder lead observing the polarity from the
welder, shunt and meter movement. This will be the most accurate, but a
clamp on attachment to a DVM, as others have suggested, should be quite
adequate.

Chuck P.

..., I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld, and
then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is there another
type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine? I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the
controls
indicate. I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg. I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve

If you know the gauge and exact length of your cables, you can short
your welder through those cables and measure voltage drop, and arrive
at a fairly good current number based on resistance of cable of your
gauge.

This is really good advise. I would get an analog voltmeter and measure the

Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Gunner wrote:
Unless you have a DC amp clamp..you cant do it. Most ammeters using
inductince to read current, are AC only. ...

My Fluke does DC amps. Has a "Max" mode too, where it remembers the max
current - you wouldn't need a helper to read the meter while you're welding.

Bob

I found a rather nice hall effect AC/DC clamp probe by TPI at FRy's for
about $60 (plug into any DMM), and it's rated for 1,600A AC / 2,000A DC.
A whole lot cheaper than the Fluke equivalent and seems to work just
fine.

"Ignoramus10476" <ignoramus10476@NOSPAM.10476.invalid> wrote in message
news:e9udnbCQc4wgy3PanZ2dnUVZ_oPinZ2d@giganews.com...

If you know the gauge and exact length of your cables, you can short
your welder through those cables and measure voltage drop, and arrive
at a fairly good current number based on resistance of cable of your
gauge.

This is really good advise. I would get an analog voltmeter and measure the
voltage drop just across the work lead. Measure the length, look up the
resistance of that size cable and calculate the current. Note the temp of
the cable and correct for that for more accuracy.

Easy, cheap, and accurate.

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 08:18:49 -0500, "Pete C." <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net
wrote:


Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Gunner wrote:
Unless you have a DC amp clamp..you cant do it. Most ammeters using
inductince to read current, are AC only. ...

My Fluke does DC amps. Has a "Max" mode too, where it remembers the max
current - you wouldn't need a helper to read the meter while you're welding.

Bob

I found a rather nice hall effect AC/DC clamp probe by TPI at FRy's for
about $60 (plug into any DMM), and it's rated for 1,600A AC / 2,000A DC.
A whole lot cheaper than the Fluke equivalent and seems to work just
fine.

Really? Fry's Electronics
Big box store to the nerds?

I'm picking up the radiator for the SA 200 Monday, and will be painting and
reassembling according to the wind speed over the next couple of weeks.
When I get the old gal running, I'd like to do a check on the output through
the leads.

Would I do this with a helper and an amp clamp? Set it up to weld, and then
weld with a helper watching an amp clamp on the lead? Is there another type
of tester I should use just on the main lugs off the machine? I'm just
trying to see if the output is good, and is within the range of the controls
indicate. I will be using 50' leads of #1 cable on each leg. I will be
using 7018 1/8" rod in the flat position, and making a dime size pool, and
trying to burn thirty seconds per setting. Stinger positive.

Does this sound like a plausible idea? Other suggestions, caveats, tips,
procedures or whatever appreciated.

Thanks.

Steve