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z
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:38 am
Guest
well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.
Grant Erwin
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:16 pm
Guest
z wrote:
Quote:
well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.

Don't buy a welder at Lowe's! Those are cut-rate welders. For example,
Lincoln makes a whole bunch of lower quality MIG welders, the result
of them buying up companies like Century, who sold welders at hardware
stores and auto parts stores. Don't buy a "pro-mig" or a "weld-pak"
or any Lincoln except one that starts with "SP". The SP-140 and SP-180
welders are just great.

You can start out with a 110 volt MIG welder, sure. But surely this is a
real good time to find out if your 220 circuit in your garage is live?
If you don't have a voltmeter you should - those are dirt cheap these
days. The 220 MIG welder isn't much heavier than the 110 if any, and
most places you will be welding will have a dryer plug. You can get
a lot done with a little 220 MIG welder and a couple of 50 foot extension
cords.

GWE
RoyJ
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:04 pm
Guest
The 120 volt welders will take all that a 120 circuit is rated for.
Depending on exactly which unit you are talking about, it may run ok on
a 15 amp circuit, need a 20 amp circuit to run at full power, or some of
them will want a 25 amp circuit to run at the max setting. But any of
them will run on the 15 circuit with the power dialed down.

The 240 volt unit is much heavier duty, more options, higher current,
more stable weld, and a higher duty cycle. Whether you need that is up
to your needs.

I have a little 120 volt unit that I run with flux core wire (no gas
bottle). It works fine for body work. It runs off a 4 kw generator with
no issues. It plugs into any reasonable 120 volt circuit. And it weighs
perhaps 25 pounds with wire loaded. A perfectly portable welder. But I
have several other welders for other work.

z wrote:
Quote:
well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.
theChas.
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:50 pm
Guest
If your garage is wired correctly, your 220V. outlet could be used to
provide 110V power. Each 220V outlet has two 'hot wires (each separatey at
110 volts to ground) but are 220 volts across each other.
Be sure to have a fuse or circuit breaker(s) (20 amp) installed if you tap
the 220V outlet for a 110V outlet.
I have a Hobart 110V mig 20 Amp, now with gas, and it works fine off my 3.5
KW generator. I could have gotten a 220V Mig cheaper, but my generator has
no 220V outlet and it would not be as portable. Using an extension cord
(10ga), I can reach anywhere on my lot. Especially nice for my metal fence.
*********

"z" <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in message
news:6bd3ae3f-3dcb-4ddf-87a0-afca5ff9b0cc@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
steamer
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:20 am
Guest
--Well considering how addictive welding can be you might want to
consider getting a real basic machine that can do it all; i.e. something
like the Miller Econotig. It'll do AC, DC and stick; I learned the craft
with one. I figure it took me about 5 years to find the limits of the
machine; i.e. for my skills to get to the point where I needed a better
machine to stretch out a bit. Instead of selling the Econotig I got a
ReadyWelder MIG gun and hooked it up to the box: it works pretty good! Being
able to do sheetmetal, tube fab and other stuff one-handed and outdoors in a
breeze is really nice. All done with one machine; well worth the investment.
I *strongly* advise you to stay away from H-F machines and the like; you'll
wind up disappointed when you quickly reach the limits of their
capabilities.

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Dare me to
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : make less sense...
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
Rob Fraser
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:09 pm
Guest
"z" <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in message
news:6bd3ae3f-3dcb-4ddf-87a0-afca5ff9b0cc@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.


When I set up folks for the first welder including my own for my ex to do
ornamental work I simply had a Miller 135 that was 120vac and it never had
any household problems. When I started doing more work at the shop at home
and not at my business I went with a Miller 210 and had an electrician drop
in a sub-panel. IMHO for learning and developing your skills you will
become frustrated with a junk welder. Period. Get yourself a little Lincoln
or Miller and a used one would be fine. Just ask the seller to make sure he
would not have any objection to having a shop look it over (They may nick
you 50 bucks like at an Airgas or somewhere but there is peace of mind
there) If you get a hooptie Harbor Fright welder or worse yet a Chicago
electric you are off to a bad start.
I would recommend a 120vac unit, even see if you can rent one from a
rental center to see if it suits your needs. Resale in used welders is hit
and miss but it depends on what your final thoughts are. If you plan on
building Liberty ships in the driveway or garden lattice only you can
decide. but when I started, I was more than satisfied with a 135 and my
buddy still owns it today six years later and he would not sell it to save
his soul. But if that 220 line is hot- I'd go for a Miller or Lincoln entry
level machine. You will not be disappointed. Just stay away from the
imports.

Welcome to the group,


Rob

Fraser Competition Engines
Chicago, IL.
Rob Fraser
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:11 pm
Guest
Grant,

I did not know Century made the cheapo's How long has that been in
place? Definite junk if from Century. Even the chargers made after 1990
suck I had one catch fire in the pit at Rt66.

Rob


"Grant Erwin" <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:N8UGj.4568$L92.1587@trndny07...
Quote:
z wrote:
well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.

Don't buy a welder at Lowe's! Those are cut-rate welders. For example,
Lincoln makes a whole bunch of lower quality MIG welders, the result
of them buying up companies like Century, who sold welders at hardware
stores and auto parts stores. Don't buy a "pro-mig" or a "weld-pak"
or any Lincoln except one that starts with "SP". The SP-140 and SP-180
welders are just great.

You can start out with a 110 volt MIG welder, sure. But surely this is a
real good time to find out if your 220 circuit in your garage is live?
If you don't have a voltmeter you should - those are dirt cheap these
days. The 220 MIG welder isn't much heavier than the 110 if any, and
most places you will be welding will have a dryer plug. You can get
a lot done with a little 220 MIG welder and a couple of 50 foot extension
cords.

GWE
Grant Erwin
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:31 pm
Guest
I don't know when Lincoln acquired Century, but they surely did. I find it
very interesting and illuminating that when you go to lincolnelectric.com
and click on PRODUCTS and then navigate down to their MIG welders, that
their Weld-Pak line isn't even listed, indicating with great certainty
that the Weld-Pak stuff isn't made by Lincoln.

I'm less sure about the Pro-MIG line. I do know a couple of guys who bought
those and were very disappointed. Every SP I've used though has been great.

Grant

Rob Fraser wrote:

Quote:
Grant,

I did not know Century made the cheapo's How long has that been in
place? Definite junk if from Century. Even the chargers made after 1990
suck I had one catch fire in the pit at Rt66.

Rob


"Grant Erwin" <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:N8UGj.4568$L92.1587@trndny07...

z wrote:

well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.

Don't buy a welder at Lowe's! Those are cut-rate welders. For example,
Lincoln makes a whole bunch of lower quality MIG welders, the result
of them buying up companies like Century, who sold welders at hardware
stores and auto parts stores. Don't buy a "pro-mig" or a "weld-pak"
or any Lincoln except one that starts with "SP". The SP-140 and SP-180
welders are just great.

You can start out with a 110 volt MIG welder, sure. But surely this is a
real good time to find out if your 220 circuit in your garage is live?
If you don't have a voltmeter you should - those are dirt cheap these
days. The 220 MIG welder isn't much heavier than the 110 if any, and
most places you will be welding will have a dryer plug. You can get
a lot done with a little 220 MIG welder and a couple of 50 foot extension
cords.

GWE


Grant Erwin
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:36 pm
Guest
Ah. Lincoln acquired Century and Marquette in 2003. Thus one of the two
off-branded Lincolns (Weld-Pak and Pro-MIG) came from Century and the
other from Marquette.

ref: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/corporate/about/history.asp

Grant

Grant Erwin wrote:

Quote:
I don't know when Lincoln acquired Century, but they surely did. I find it
very interesting and illuminating that when you go to lincolnelectric.com
and click on PRODUCTS and then navigate down to their MIG welders, that
their Weld-Pak line isn't even listed, indicating with great certainty
that the Weld-Pak stuff isn't made by Lincoln.

I'm less sure about the Pro-MIG line. I do know a couple of guys who bought
those and were very disappointed. Every SP I've used though has been great.

Grant

Rob Fraser wrote:

Grant,

I did not know Century made the cheapo's How long has that been
in place? Definite junk if from Century. Even the chargers made after
1990 suck I had one catch fire in the pit at Rt66.

Rob


"Grant Erwin" <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote in message
news:N8UGj.4568$L92.1587@trndny07...

z wrote:

well, i've taken a welding night class at the local voc ed school.
now, i have a big lowes gift card burning a hole in my pocket. right
now, all i can see myself doing is car body repair (and i fully expect
to make a mess of it). so; should i buy the more expensive 110 volt
wire welder or the least expensive 220 volt wire welder? my garage has
110 volt 15 amp and the box on the welder or the website don't say
anything about whether it wants 20 amp or not; the garage also has a
220 socket (but i've never actually checked if it's live). while the
110 volt machine will be able to drag around and plug in more places
(if doesn't require 20 amp) is the 220 volt much more capable?

thanks for suffering through my ignorance.


Don't buy a welder at Lowe's! Those are cut-rate welders. For example,
Lincoln makes a whole bunch of lower quality MIG welders, the result
of them buying up companies like Century, who sold welders at hardware
stores and auto parts stores. Don't buy a "pro-mig" or a "weld-pak"
or any Lincoln except one that starts with "SP". The SP-140 and SP-180
welders are just great.

You can start out with a 110 volt MIG welder, sure. But surely this is a
real good time to find out if your 220 circuit in your garage is live?
If you don't have a voltmeter you should - those are dirt cheap these
days. The 220 MIG welder isn't much heavier than the 110 if any, and
most places you will be welding will have a dryer plug. You can get
a lot done with a little 220 MIG welder and a couple of 50 foot
extension
cords.

GWE



Gunner
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:20 pm
Guest
On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 17:36:39 GMT, Grant Erwin
<grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:

Quote:
Ah. Lincoln acquired Century and Marquette in 2003. Thus one of the two
off-branded Lincolns (Weld-Pak and Pro-MIG) came from Century and the
other from Marquette.

ref: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/corporate/about/history.asp

Grant


Ive been quite happy with the Weld-pak 100 that I keep in the big van,
but..its only slightly better than a HF machine.
As long as I remember its limitations, it does a good job on stuff .25
and thinner. Holding up good, so far.

The only issue I have with it..is operator error..in not tightening up
the spool drag all the way when I put it in the van, and a week later
finding out its unspooled itself and birdnested beyond repair.

Didnt take too many of those before I got out the permanant marker and
put a big REMEMBER on all sides of the machine.

Gunner
Terry Coombs
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 2:59 pm
Guest
Gunner wrote:
Quote:
On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 17:36:39 GMT, Grant Erwin
grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:

Ah. Lincoln acquired Century and Marquette in 2003. Thus one of the
two off-branded Lincolns (Weld-Pak and Pro-MIG) came from Century
and the other from Marquette.

ref: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/corporate/about/history.asp

Grant


Ive been quite happy with the Weld-pak 100 that I keep in the big van,
but..its only slightly better than a HF machine.
As long as I remember its limitations, it does a good job on stuff .25
and thinner. Holding up good, so far.

The only issue I have with it..is operator error..in not tightening up
the spool drag all the way when I put it in the van, and a week later
finding out its unspooled itself and birdnested beyond repair.

Didnt take too many of those before I got out the permanant marker and
put a big REMEMBER on all sides of the machine.

Gunner

I gotta agree with Gunner that the weldpak 100 is a nice machine for 1/4"
and under . Might make a difference that mine dates from the late 90's
....I've only had mine cut out on duty cycle twice in 5 years of use . And
both times I knew it was going to happen ...

--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
Scott Lurndal
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 3:46 pm
Guest
"theChas." <footboarder@bresnan.net> writes:
Quote:
If your garage is wired correctly, your 220V. outlet could be used to
provide 110V power. Each 220V outlet has two 'hot wires (each separatey at
110 volts to ground) but are 220 volts across each other.

This is not precisely correct. 220V 3-wire circuits cannot provide
a 110V leg as there is no grounded (neutral) conductor. 220V 4-wire
circuits (e.g. a dryer outlet) have two 110v legs to neutral, but
usually only support parasitic 110v loads (such as the light bulb in
the dryer), and generally aren't used to derive general purpose 110v
circuits (leaving aside so-called edison circuits).

scott
Pete C.
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:12 pm
Guest
Gunner wrote:
Quote:

On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 17:36:39 GMT, Grant Erwin
grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:

Ah. Lincoln acquired Century and Marquette in 2003. Thus one of the two
off-branded Lincolns (Weld-Pak and Pro-MIG) came from Century and the
other from Marquette.

ref: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/corporate/about/history.asp

Grant

Ive been quite happy with the Weld-pak 100 that I keep in the big van,
but..its only slightly better than a HF machine.
As long as I remember its limitations, it does a good job on stuff .25
and thinner. Holding up good, so far.

The only issue I have with it..is operator error..in not tightening up
the spool drag all the way when I put it in the van, and a week later
finding out its unspooled itself and birdnested beyond repair.

Didnt take too many of those before I got out the permanant marker and
put a big REMEMBER on all sides of the machine.

Gunner

Suggestion: Fabricate a solenoid operated spool brake that requires the
solenoid energized to release the brake. If it's in the moving truck, it
probably isn't powered so the brake will be applied and all will be
well.
Gunner
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 3:01 am
Guest
On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 14:59:27 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
<snagone@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Quote:
Gunner wrote:
On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 17:36:39 GMT, Grant Erwin
grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:

Ah. Lincoln acquired Century and Marquette in 2003. Thus one of the
two off-branded Lincolns (Weld-Pak and Pro-MIG) came from Century
and the other from Marquette.

ref: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/corporate/about/history.asp

Grant


Ive been quite happy with the Weld-pak 100 that I keep in the big van,
but..its only slightly better than a HF machine.
As long as I remember its limitations, it does a good job on stuff .25
and thinner. Holding up good, so far.

The only issue I have with it..is operator error..in not tightening up
the spool drag all the way when I put it in the van, and a week later
finding out its unspooled itself and birdnested beyond repair.

Didnt take too many of those before I got out the permanant marker and
put a big REMEMBER on all sides of the machine.

Gunner

I gotta agree with Gunner that the weldpak 100 is a nice machine for 1/4"
and under . Might make a difference that mine dates from the late 90's
...I've only had mine cut out on duty cycle twice in 5 years of use . And
both times I knew it was going to happen ...

I think mine was new in 01. Was sitting unused in a maint shop until
last year when I swapped some labor for it.
Still in the box....

Gunner
Gunner
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 3:02 am
Guest
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 01:12:53 GMT, "Pete C." <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net>
wrote:

Quote:

Gunner wrote:

On Fri, 28 Mar 2008 17:36:39 GMT, Grant Erwin
grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:

Ah. Lincoln acquired Century and Marquette in 2003. Thus one of the two
off-branded Lincolns (Weld-Pak and Pro-MIG) came from Century and the
other from Marquette.

ref: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/corporate/about/history.asp

Grant

Ive been quite happy with the Weld-pak 100 that I keep in the big van,
but..its only slightly better than a HF machine.
As long as I remember its limitations, it does a good job on stuff .25
and thinner. Holding up good, so far.

The only issue I have with it..is operator error..in not tightening up
the spool drag all the way when I put it in the van, and a week later
finding out its unspooled itself and birdnested beyond repair.

Didnt take too many of those before I got out the permanant marker and
put a big REMEMBER on all sides of the machine.

Gunner

Suggestion: Fabricate a solenoid operated spool brake that requires the
solenoid energized to release the brake. If it's in the moving truck, it
probably isn't powered so the brake will be applied and all will be
well.


Not a bad idea at all!

Thanks!

Gunner
 
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