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Science Forum Index » Engineering - Joining (Welding) Forum » Drat!
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| Gunner |
Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:30 am |
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Guest
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On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 22:29:03 -0700, "Private" <please@dont.bother>
wrote:
Quote:
"SteveB" <pittmanpirate@henderson.com> wrote in message
news:pkhjb5-ite1.ln1@news.infowest.com...
"Private" <please@dont.bother> wrote
I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block
flush before refilling
How does one go about that? I had thought I'd take off the thermostat
neck, get a new thermostat while I'm in there, and just flush water
through to get out the big stuff. Then, after I seal everything up, buy a
product for rad flushing. Tips appreciated. When I drained, it, it had
remarkably green/clearish liquid. But I do see some rust and crud in the
passages. Might as well do all this while it's apart.
Steve
There are lots of commercial flushing systems available, some are very harsh
and require neutralizers and lots of flushing to remove. Some are very hard
on hoses. Since you will be starting with a clean rebuilt rad the most
important part is already done, (and I add done better than any flush). I
have had good luck using a clean water flush followed by filling with a
strong mixture of (Calgon) dishwasher detergent and water. I let it
circulate in a running hot engine for 1/2 hour or so and follow with a
thorough warm running flush with clean water and with all drains open, then
a warm running flush with distilled water. I do not bother to remove the
thermostat but I do make sure that the engine reaches operating temp and the
thermostat is opening properly. After final drain, refill with 50/50 long
life coolant and distilled water.
Good luck, YMMV
and please use a pet safe coolant.
Gunner |
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| RoyJ |
Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:15 am |
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Guest
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The normal flushing procedure is to dump a can of a radiator flush
concentrate in the engine, bring it up to operation temp, let it sit for
10 to 30 minutes, then flush with clean water until it runs clear. You
especially want to open any block drains to flush out the crud that
accumulates in the lower passages. It's not uncommon to need to use a
coat hanger in the block drain holes to get the passageway opened up
enough to flow.
In your case, I'd be tempted to put the unrepaired radiator back on, do
the radiator flushing with the leak, then get it repaired.
SteveB wrote:
Quote: "Private" <please@dont.bother> wrote
I would also suggest you combine the rad rebuild with a proper block
flush before refilling
How does one go about that? I had thought I'd take off the thermostat neck,
get a new thermostat while I'm in there, and just flush water through to get
out the big stuff. Then, after I seal everything up, buy a product for rad
flushing. Tips appreciated. When I drained, it, it had remarkably
green/clearish liquid. But I do see some rust and crud in the passages.
Might as well do all this while it's apart.
Steve
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