| |
 |
|
|
Science Forum Index » Engineering - Joining (Welding) Forum » oxy cutting without acetylene
Page 1 of 2 Goto page 1, 2 Next
|
| Author |
Message |
| Shaun Van Poecke |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 6:03 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
hi all,
i remember some years ago a person i worked with telling me that once the
cut is started you need only oxy to maintain it and can turn off the fuel.
Ive been experimenting with this a bit at work lately as we have a bit of
spare time. I've had mixed results.
The plate im working with varies from about 1/2" to 2". Im using an
electric style plate cutting machine. There are all the usual adjustments
for height, travel speed, etc. I start the cut as usual with a suitable tip
and neutral flame, then once the cut is proceeding well i start to reduce
the acetylene. Ive had some excellent results by reducing the acetylene to
an extreme oxidising flame, to the point where the flame almost goes out. i
reduce the travel speed a little at this point. The cuts im obtaining are
really great - almost laser like. They are dead clean, with no slag at all
and a very neat edge that doesnt need grinding. As a side benefit, there is
less heat distortion on the cut, on full plate length cuts you can notice
that the cut off section moves away from the main section by very little.
It is noticeably cooler, to the point that you can handle it without gloves
within 10 minutes. using less acetylene is only a minor benefit to me.
I cant completely turn off the fuel though, or the cut wont sustain itself
very long, maybe a couple of inches. does anyone have experience with this
type of cutting? Is it common? can anyone give some general rules to
follow or possible hints, is it possible to cut without any flame at all
once the cut has been started? As a general rule, would you keep the same
oxy pressure as for a flame cut? should travel speeds be about the same?
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated! |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Vernon |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:41 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
On Feb 10, 4:03 am, "Shaun Van Poecke"
Quote:
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!
Shaun,
It's called "oxygen lance" cutting. I've never done it. But I've
read about it with fascination. Here's how it works.
FIrst, you "build" an oxygen lance. This is nothing more than a 1/2"
or 3/4" pice of black iron pipe that is at least several feet long.
And the longer the better, for two reasons. First, it becomes the
"fuel" and melts away as the cut progresses. Therefore, (second), the
operator continues to get closer and closer as the infernal process
progresses.
An oxygen shut-off valve is attached to the rear of the lance pipe.
Oxygen is supplied to it at a pretty high pressure and volume. I
don't remember the details but it's pretty high.
Once the rig is ready a SEPARATE oxy-acetylene rig is lit up. It is
used to heat the end of the lance and the area where the cut is to be
commenced, to a red heat.
Once this area is glowing red, the oxyacetylene rig is removed. The
lance operator opens the oxygen valve.
And the fun begins. I have read that a lance will cut through several
feet of anything, including steel reinforced concrete. Apparently it
was, and still is, used to cut defects out of huge steel blooms in
mills.
It releases an incredible amount of heat. All fed by an exo-chemical
reaction between the vaporizing atoms of the iron pipe and the oxygen
flowing through it.
All the above is based on my reading. None of it is based on
experience. So, use at your own peril yada yada.
Regards,
Vernon |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Kryptoknight |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:39 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
from what i know about it, typically the tube is loaded with other types of
rods.
"Vernon" <vtuck@tucklings.com> wrote in message
news:1171111298.728998.314490@k78g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Quote: On Feb 10, 4:03 am, "Shaun Van Poecke"
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!
Shaun,
It's called "oxygen lance" cutting. I've never done it. But I've
read about it with fascination. Here's how it works.
FIrst, you "build" an oxygen lance. This is nothing more than a 1/2"
or 3/4" pice of black iron pipe that is at least several feet long.
And the longer the better, for two reasons. First, it becomes the
"fuel" and melts away as the cut progresses. Therefore, (second), the
operator continues to get closer and closer as the infernal process
progresses.
An oxygen shut-off valve is attached to the rear of the lance pipe.
Oxygen is supplied to it at a pretty high pressure and volume. I
don't remember the details but it's pretty high.
Once the rig is ready a SEPARATE oxy-acetylene rig is lit up. It is
used to heat the end of the lance and the area where the cut is to be
commenced, to a red heat.
Once this area is glowing red, the oxyacetylene rig is removed. The
lance operator opens the oxygen valve.
And the fun begins. I have read that a lance will cut through several
feet of anything, including steel reinforced concrete. Apparently it
was, and still is, used to cut defects out of huge steel blooms in
mills.
It releases an incredible amount of heat. All fed by an exo-chemical
reaction between the vaporizing atoms of the iron pipe and the oxygen
flowing through it.
All the above is based on my reading. None of it is based on
experience. So, use at your own peril yada yada.
Regards,
Vernon
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| DanG |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 11:59 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
We bought some Oxy Rods (that's the name I remember) for a special
job one time. Had to jump through a bunch of hoops for the
purchase. They were the tubes you're talking about filled with
magnesium wires that required a manifold of oxygen and a cutting
torch to light. They are used for extreme demolition situations
and they don't seem to care whether it is concrete, steel, or
both! They do need open space on the far side, a bit like
oxy/acet, so the slag has somewhere to go.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
valentine@okchorale.org (local)
http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)
"Vernon" <vtuck@tucklings.com> wrote in message
news:1171111298.728998.314490@k78g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Quote: On Feb 10, 4:03 am, "Shaun Van Poecke"
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!
Shaun,
It's called "oxygen lance" cutting. I've never done it. But
I've
read about it with fascination. Here's how it works.
FIrst, you "build" an oxygen lance. This is nothing more than a
1/2"
or 3/4" pice of black iron pipe that is at least several feet
long.
And the longer the better, for two reasons. First, it becomes
the
"fuel" and melts away as the cut progresses. Therefore,
(second), the
operator continues to get closer and closer as the infernal
process
progresses.
An oxygen shut-off valve is attached to the rear of the lance
pipe.
Oxygen is supplied to it at a pretty high pressure and volume.
I
don't remember the details but it's pretty high.
Once the rig is ready a SEPARATE oxy-acetylene rig is lit up.
It is
used to heat the end of the lance and the area where the cut is
to be
commenced, to a red heat.
Once this area is glowing red, the oxyacetylene rig is removed.
The
lance operator opens the oxygen valve.
And the fun begins. I have read that a lance will cut through
several
feet of anything, including steel reinforced concrete.
Apparently it
was, and still is, used to cut defects out of huge steel blooms
in
mills.
It releases an incredible amount of heat. All fed by an
exo-chemical
reaction between the vaporizing atoms of the iron pipe and the
oxygen
flowing through it.
All the above is based on my reading. None of it is based on
experience. So, use at your own peril yada yada.
Regards,
Vernon
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Big Ben |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:00 pm |
|
|
|
Guest
|
On Feb 10, 6:41�am, "Vernon" <v...@tucklings.com> wrote:
Quote: On Feb 10, 4:03 am, "Shaun Van Poecke"
It's called "oxygen lance" cutting. I've never done it. But I've
read about it with fascination. Here's how it works.
FIrst, you "build" an oxygen lance. This is nothing more than a 1/2"
or 3/4" pice of black iron pipe that is at least several feet long.
And the longer the better, for two reasons. First, it becomes the
"fuel" and melts away as the cut progresses. Therefore, (second), the
operator continues to get closer and closer as the infernal process
progresses.
An oxygen shut-off valve is attached to the rear of the lance pipe.
Oxygen is supplied to it at a pretty high pressure and volume. I
don't remember the details but it's pretty high.
Once the rig is ready a SEPARATE oxy-acetylene rig is lit up. It is
used to heat the end of the lance and the area where the cut is to be
commenced, to a red heat.
Once this area is glowing red, the oxyacetylene rig is removed. The
lance operator opens the oxygen valve.
And the fun begins. I have read that a lance will cut through several
feet of anything, including steel reinforced concrete. Apparently it
was, and still is, used to cut defects out of huge steel blooms in
mills.
It releases an incredible amount of heat. All fed by an exo-chemical
reaction between the vaporizing atoms of the iron pipe and the oxygen
flowing through it.
All the above is based on my reading. None of it is based on
experience. So, use at your own peril yada yada.
Regards,
Vernon
Or, a guy can get his hands on one of these... http://tinyurl.com/2cg5en
....I used 'em a few times while I was in the Navy...doggone but
they're fun <G>
watch them sparks tho'... had one roll down the inside of my right
glove...long gauntlets, didn't notice the spark until it got past the
cuff on my shirtsleeve...and that's just one of many<G>
--
Big Ben
the "I really hate the ones that bounce into your ears" Slug |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| RoyJ |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:05 pm |
|
|
|
Guest
|
The REAL version of this is the boring machines used in the taconite
mines. Taconite is an extremely hard, flinty version of iron ore this is
considerably harder than granit. To bore a hole for blasting, they use a
rig with two pipes, one O2 and the other is kerosene, just light it off,
lower it to the rock, let it go.
Vernon wrote:
Quote: On Feb 10, 4:03 am, "Shaun Van Poecke"
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!
Shaun,
It's called "oxygen lance" cutting. I've never done it. But I've
read about it with fascination. Here's how it works.
FIrst, you "build" an oxygen lance. This is nothing more than a 1/2"
or 3/4" pice of black iron pipe that is at least several feet long.
And the longer the better, for two reasons. First, it becomes the
"fuel" and melts away as the cut progresses. Therefore, (second), the
operator continues to get closer and closer as the infernal process
progresses.
An oxygen shut-off valve is attached to the rear of the lance pipe.
Oxygen is supplied to it at a pretty high pressure and volume. I
don't remember the details but it's pretty high.
Once the rig is ready a SEPARATE oxy-acetylene rig is lit up. It is
used to heat the end of the lance and the area where the cut is to be
commenced, to a red heat.
Once this area is glowing red, the oxyacetylene rig is removed. The
lance operator opens the oxygen valve.
And the fun begins. I have read that a lance will cut through several
feet of anything, including steel reinforced concrete. Apparently it
was, and still is, used to cut defects out of huge steel blooms in
mills.
It releases an incredible amount of heat. All fed by an exo-chemical
reaction between the vaporizing atoms of the iron pipe and the oxygen
flowing through it.
All the above is based on my reading. None of it is based on
experience. So, use at your own peril yada yada.
Regards,
Vernon
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| R. Zimmerman |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:32 pm |
|
|
|
Guest
|
Yes you can cut without fuel for short periods but you cannot maintain a
cut with oxygen only more than a few seconds.
Generally the less preheat you have the better cut you will get. You
still however do need some preheat.
Randy
"Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoecke@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:cMgzh.5627$sd2.4032@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
hi all,
i remember some years ago a person i worked with telling me that once the
cut is started you need only oxy to maintain it and can turn off the fuel.
Ive been experimenting with this a bit at work lately as we have a bit of
spare time. I've had mixed results.
The plate im working with varies from about 1/2" to 2". Im using an
electric style plate cutting machine. There are all the usual adjustments
for height, travel speed, etc. I start the cut as usual with a suitable tip
and neutral flame, then once the cut is proceeding well i start to reduce
the acetylene. Ive had some excellent results by reducing the acetylene to
an extreme oxidising flame, to the point where the flame almost goes out. i
reduce the travel speed a little at this point. The cuts im obtaining are
really great - almost laser like. They are dead clean, with no slag at all
and a very neat edge that doesnt need grinding. As a side benefit, there is
less heat distortion on the cut, on full plate length cuts you can notice
that the cut off section moves away from the main section by very little.
It is noticeably cooler, to the point that you can handle it without gloves
within 10 minutes. using less acetylene is only a minor benefit to me.
I cant completely turn off the fuel though, or the cut wont sustain itself
very long, maybe a couple of inches. does anyone have experience with this
type of cutting? Is it common? can anyone give some general rules to
follow or possible hints, is it possible to cut without any flame at all
once the cut has been started? As a general rule, would you keep the same
oxy pressure as for a flame cut? should travel speeds be about the same?
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated! |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Curt Welch |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:59 pm |
|
|
|
Guest
|
"R. Zimmerman" <m-zimmerman@shaw.ca> wrote:
Quote: Yes you can cut without fuel for short periods but you cannot maintain a
cut with oxygen only more than a few seconds.
Generally the less preheat you have the better cut you will get. You
still however do need some preheat.
Randy
I've never cut anything with oxy-gas but from what I've read, it sure seems
to imply that you can keep cutting with pure oxygen. The little oxy-mapp
torch I have even tells you that you _must_ turn off the gas once the cut
is started (though I've never tried to cut with it). But it's such a small
torch that you can only cut sheet metal with it.
The preheat obviously comes from the steel burning. If it goes out, it
seems to me to imply you aren't burning enough steel to keep it going. So
it seems to me, that if it goes out, you need a faster flow of oxygen and
you need to burn more steel - which might also mean a wider cut. The only
other thing I could think of is that there could be too much oxygen flow
which is acting to cool the burning steel. So you might need a larger
torch to allow for more oxygen flowing with a slower velocity?
This is all pure speculation on my part - I have no practical experience or
knowledge of this so I'm just thinking out loud....
Quote: "Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoecke@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:cMgzh.5627$sd2.4032@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
hi all,
i remember some years ago a person i worked with telling me that once the
cut is started you need only oxy to maintain it and can turn off the
fuel. Ive been experimenting with this a bit at work lately as we have a
bit of spare time. I've had mixed results.
The plate im working with varies from about 1/2" to 2". Im using an
electric style plate cutting machine. There are all the usual
adjustments for height, travel speed, etc. I start the cut as usual with
a suitable tip and neutral flame, then once the cut is proceeding well i
start to reduce the acetylene. Ive had some excellent results by
reducing the acetylene to an extreme oxidising flame, to the point where
the flame almost goes out. i reduce the travel speed a little at this
point. The cuts im obtaining are really great - almost laser like. They
are dead clean, with no slag at all and a very neat edge that doesnt need
grinding. As a side benefit, there is less heat distortion on the cut,
on full plate length cuts you can notice that the cut off section moves
away from the main section by very little. It is noticeably cooler, to
the point that you can handle it without gloves within 10 minutes. using
less acetylene is only a minor benefit to me.
I cant completely turn off the fuel though, or the cut wont sustain
itself very long, maybe a couple of inches. does anyone have experience
with this type of cutting? Is it common? can anyone give some general
rules to follow or possible hints, is it possible to cut without any
flame at all once the cut has been started? As a general rule, would you
keep the same oxy pressure as for a flame cut? should travel speeds be
about the same?
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!
--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
curt@kcwc.com http://NewsReader.Com/ |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Leo Lichtman |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 11:29 pm |
|
|
|
Guest
|
"Curt Welch" wrote: (clip) The preheat obviously comes from the steel
burning. If it goes out, it seems to me to imply you aren't burning enough
steel to keep it going. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The way I use a cutting torch, I sometimes lose the cut even WITH preheat.
What seems to happen is that the movement of the torch is not perfectly
even. If you go too slow, you slightly overheat the front of the cut, and
probably don't even know it, but when you go a little too fast, your oxygen
stream starts hitting metal that is too cold to ignite, and the cut stops.
Without preheat, this would be even more touchy, and losing the cut would be
almost inevitable. |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| RoyJ |
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 11:45 pm |
|
|
|
Guest
|
I'd argue that with a perfect torch setup on a machine burner with very
clean material you can acutally do a long cut without preheat. But if
you have the slightest variation, the oxygen blast will hit metal that
is not quite hot enough and will chill the metal rather than burn it.
And that is the end of the cut. So in the real world, you need a bit of
preheat.
R. Zimmerman wrote:
Quote: Yes you can cut without fuel for short periods but you cannot maintain a
cut with oxygen only more than a few seconds.
Generally the less preheat you have the better cut you will get. You
still however do need some preheat.
Randy
"Shaun Van Poecke" <shaunvanpoecke@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:cMgzh.5627$sd2.4032@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
hi all,
i remember some years ago a person i worked with telling me that once the
cut is started you need only oxy to maintain it and can turn off the fuel.
Ive been experimenting with this a bit at work lately as we have a bit of
spare time. I've had mixed results.
The plate im working with varies from about 1/2" to 2". Im using an
electric style plate cutting machine. There are all the usual adjustments
for height, travel speed, etc. I start the cut as usual with a suitable tip
and neutral flame, then once the cut is proceeding well i start to reduce
the acetylene. Ive had some excellent results by reducing the acetylene to
an extreme oxidising flame, to the point where the flame almost goes out. i
reduce the travel speed a little at this point. The cuts im obtaining are
really great - almost laser like. They are dead clean, with no slag at all
and a very neat edge that doesnt need grinding. As a side benefit, there is
less heat distortion on the cut, on full plate length cuts you can notice
that the cut off section moves away from the main section by very little.
It is noticeably cooler, to the point that you can handle it without gloves
within 10 minutes. using less acetylene is only a minor benefit to me.
I cant completely turn off the fuel though, or the cut wont sustain itself
very long, maybe a couple of inches. does anyone have experience with this
type of cutting? Is it common? can anyone give some general rules to
follow or possible hints, is it possible to cut without any flame at all
once the cut has been started? As a general rule, would you keep the same
oxy pressure as for a flame cut? should travel speeds be about the same?
Any hints or book reccomendations would be appreciated!
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Curt Welch |
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:07 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
"Leo Lichtman" <l.lichtman@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
Quote: "Curt Welch" wrote: (clip) The preheat obviously comes from the steel
burning. If it goes out, it seems to me to imply you aren't burning
enough steel to keep it going. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The way I use a cutting torch, I sometimes lose the cut even WITH
preheat. What seems to happen is that the movement of the torch is not
perfectly even. If you go too slow, you slightly overheat the front of
the cut, and probably don't even know it, but when you go a little too
fast, your oxygen stream starts hitting metal that is too cold to ignite,
and the cut stops. Without preheat, this would be even more touchy, and
losing the cut would be almost inevitable.
Interesting. I'm actually taking two welding classes currently and though
neither is oxy-acetylene, they are going to teach us basic oxy-acetylene
cutting (maybe this coming week) in the stick class so I should get some
first hand experience with this real soon now....
--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
curt@kcwc.com http://NewsReader.Com/ |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Shaun Van Poecke |
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:45 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
Hi Vernon,
Over in Australia, we call this 'thermic lancing'. Ive done a bit of it,
but not too much. i live in a mining town, and the last time i used it we
had taken delivery of some tips for a large auger head. each ot the tips
was about 7 tonne. The foundry had poured a 'tree' on top of the casting to
reduce shrinking, which is about 1 1/2 foot in diameter, same metal as the
casting. it took about 3 lances to get each tree cut off.
While a good operator can make a relatively neat cut with a lance, its not a
precision cutting process, and not one that you would use for cutting plate
neatly. What im describing here is using a merchanized oxy cutter,
sometimes called a quickie, a crawler or a plate cutter. Its really just
the head off an oxy torch connected to a machine that runs off mains power.
You lay down a track on your plate, then the machine walks along the track
and does the cutting for you.
Thanks,
Shaun
"Vernon" <vtuck@tucklings.com> wrote in message >> Any hints or book
reccomendations would be appreciated!
<snip>
Quote: Shaun,
It's called "oxygen lance" cutting. I've never done it. But I've
read about it with fascination. Here's how it works.
Regards,
Vernon
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Shaun Van Poecke |
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:45 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
"Kryptoknight" <kryptoknight@att.net> wrote in message
news:mOkzh.14216$2m6.780@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Quote: from what i know about it, typically the tube is loaded with other types
of rods.
You're right there.... though it might work with just plain pipe too. I
think the sacrificial material is copper based.
Shaun |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Shaun Van Poecke |
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:45 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
Is an oxidising flame the way to go then?
thanks,
shaun
"R. Zimmerman" <m-zimmerman@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Eutzh.938429$R63.308894@pd7urf1no...
Quote: Yes you can cut without fuel for short periods but you cannot maintain a
cut with oxygen only more than a few seconds.
Generally the less preheat you have the better cut you will get. You
still however do need some preheat.
Randy
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| Shaun Van Poecke |
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 2:44 am |
|
|
|
Guest
|
"Leo Lichtman" <l.lichtman@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:c4wzh.17890$2m6.9335@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Quote:
"Curt Welch" wrote: (clip) The preheat obviously comes from the steel
burning. If it goes out, it seems to me to imply you aren't burning
enough steel to keep it going. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The way I use a cutting torch, I sometimes lose the cut even WITH preheat.
What seems to happen is that the movement of the torch is not perfectly
even. If you go too slow, you slightly overheat the front of the cut, and
probably don't even know it, but when you go a little too fast, your
oxygen stream starts hitting metal that is too cold to ignite, and the cut
stops. Without preheat, this would be even more touchy, and losing the cut
would be almost inevitable.
Thats a pretty common problem that a lot of people have.... curing it is
not too hard. the big ones are just setting the torch right and ensuring
you have the right size tip and its clean. very few people bother with
cleaning tips :-(
once youve got that, try getting a pair of wheels for your torch. they are
cheap ($10 or less) and supprt the head of the torch at a fixed height so
all you have to do is steer. they can also be set to cut 45degrees for
putting an included angle on a plate. take is a step further (for straight
cuts) by laying a bit of 1/8" flat bar on the material to be cut and
clamping it in place. now you have a guide to run your wheels along. With
a good clean tip, the right flame, the height set by the wheels and the
course controlled by the flat bar all you need to do is control the speed.
You should be able to get a very neat cut with this method. there are
several types of circle cutting guides for cutting accurate circles
abvailable too.
The only trouble you are likely to run into now is material troubles... if
the plate you are cutting is a bit rusty and you are too lazy to clean it,
increase your pre-heat, and slow down your travel speed. Some materials are
just harder to cut than others.... check plate falls into this category.
again, slowing down can help. The last one is material that was not made
well. Foundsy's have variations in quality too, and in metallurgy. some
meterials have excessive mill scale, or 'hard spots' in them that just dont
want to cut. when you get to a spot like this, you'll know it. all the
surrounding metal will get cut/melted/destroyed while the target area doesnt
cut. Everyone has a different strategy for dealing with this.... what i
do, is it there is a waste side, i wiggle the torch slightly to the waste
side, then bring it back in. If you are cutting right up the middle of two
pieces, then a slight wiggle will also work.
It sounds a bit tricky, but doing it is easier than saying it. You really
do need to keep a close eye on the cut to identify the cold spot as earl as
possible so it doesnt get completely blown out.
Shaun |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
| |
Page 1 of 2 Goto page 1, 2 Next
All times are GMT - 5 Hours
The time now is Sat Oct 11, 2008 3:08 am
|
|