Ernie Leimkuhler <stagesmith@mindspring.com> wrote:
In article <FBuvh.4448$Lx2.2912@newsfe14.phx>,
"Steve B" <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:
Would you please do a short commentary on the learning curve
of 7018,
and four or five of the most basic pointers/mistakes? About
how long
does it take your average student to really "get the hang" of
it?
Comments on other things you have observed as a teacher.
Or post a site where one could go?
I've welded a lot of 7018, and I wished I lived close to a
lot of the
guys here who ask, so I'd just get together and show them in
an hour
what it would take a week to learn.
It's like riding a bike. How do you describe it in words?
But I can
teach any kid to ride one in an hour. Taught both of mine in
an hour
each. (If interested, post so, and I'll explain it. It's
simple
enough that I can explain that one.)
Thanks Ernie.
Steve
I can explain the stance, the approach, the travel speed, and
the arc
distance, but without pictures it can still be hard to grasp.
OK to start.
I will go with a fillet weld to explain stance.
Put a 1/8" 7018 electrode in the stinger.
Feet placed shoulder width apart, facing the table.
Position your pieces near the edge of the table.
Hold the upper piece in place while tacking.
Tack both ends.
To tack use a scratching motion sideways to strike the arc,
then hold
the arc in place long enough for a strong tack to form.
At all times you must maintain a very short arc.
Every time you stop the arc you must chip or tap the flux off
the end.
You can tap the rod on the floor, the wide end of a chipping
hammer, or
a piece of steel in your hand..
You can also use your thumb to to break the flux crown off the
end, but
this can break off more flux than you want.
Too much exposed wire on the rod end will make it stick like
crazy.
To make the fillet weld.
Start with the rod at a 90 degree angle side to side and 45
degrees up
and down.
Now swing the back end of the rod 10 to 20 degrees in the
direction of
travel.
Now swing it down about 30 degrees so you have an angle of 10
to 20
degrees from the table.
Strike the arc using a slight sideways scratching technique
then hold
the arc about 1/16" from the metal.
7018 can be run with a simple stringer bead (no weave) or a
slight slow
side to side weave, but never crossing over existing flux,
hence no
circles or back and forth motions.
Proper travel speed means using a 14" electrode in 5" to 6" of
weld.
This holds for any position.
All motion must be slow and smooth.
Beads should have an even smooth appearance, with a smooth tie
in on
both sides.
There should never be any sharp crevices.
If you run a good brand of 7018 at the correct speed and
motion, the
flux should be very easy to remove.
My favorite brand is Lincoln Excalibur.
I'll probably be trying this in class Wednesday. Thanks for the
pointers.
Last week in class was my first time welding period so I have a
lot to
learn just to get started. I just wish I didn't have to wait a
week. If I
had my way, I'd be spending 8 hours a day practicing.
I
really don't
know why I waited so long to pick this up (I'm 50).
BTW, I'm trying to find where I can get mild steel in my area so
I can see
what it costs. Just simple stuff for small welding projects and
for
practicing welding (when I get some hardware). All I know about
know is
the stuff you can get from Home Depot or Lowes but I assume I
can find much
better prices without having to buy too much steel. How do I
find other
local options? What do you look under in the yellow pages for
example?
Most of what I've seen so far look like they only supply large
quantities
for construction or other commercial applications.
I live in Northern VA outside of DC. Does anyone in the group
know about
places in this part of the world they could point me to?
--
Curt Welch
http://CurtWelch.Com/
curt@kcwc.com
http://NewsReader.Com/
