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Ignoramus10675
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 1:30 am
Guest
Finished A frame:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/05-Welding-Frame/

Mounted axle hangers on 1/4" thick pads (1/4-2x2 angle):

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/06-Mounting-Axle/
Steve B
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:19 am
Guest
"Ignoramus10675" <ignoramus10675@NOSPAM.10675.invalid> wrote in message
news:H96dna9_ZbEUGyDYnZ2dnUVZ_uvinZ2d@giganews.com...

If that's 7018, you're getting the hang of it. You are getting just a
little undercut on the sides. Slow down just a tad and let the puddle get
just big enough to fill it up to the right level. You might want to focus
your attention to the 2 o'clock position of the puddle where you can see the
arc and that portion of the puddle that needs to fill in where it is now
undercutting. But, your welds look pretty good.

Steve
Ignoramus5566
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:28 am
Guest
On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 22:19:26 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:
Quote:

"Ignoramus10675" <ignoramus10675@NOSPAM.10675.invalid> wrote in message
news:H96dna9_ZbEUGyDYnZ2dnUVZ_uvinZ2d@giganews.com...
Finished A frame:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/05-Welding-Frame/

Mounted axle hangers on 1/4" thick pads (1/4-2x2 angle):

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/06-Mounting-Axle/

If that's 7018, you're getting the hang of it. You are getting just a
little undercut on the sides. Slow down just a tad and let the puddle get
just big enough to fill it up to the right level. You might want to focus
your attention to the 2 o'clock position of the puddle where you can see the
arc and that portion of the puddle that needs to fill in where it is now
undercutting. But, your welds look pretty good.

Steve, thanks, yes, it was 7018.

i
Vernon
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:38 am
Guest
Iggy,

Stupendous.

A couple of suggestions:

a) weld in gussets wherever you have room for 'em;

b) next time you have to weld channel iron into an angle, and assuming
you have a single piece that is long enough, rather than sever the
piece and weld it back together, just cut the appropriately angled
tabs out of the "legs" of the channel. Then heat the flange face red
hot, bend the piece to the proper angle, and weld the seams closed.
That is another place where a gusset would be nice.

I can't remember the last time I've worked so hard building a trailer!
<big grin>

V

On Jan 28, 11:30 pm, Ignoramus10675 <ignoramus10...@NOSPAM.
10675.invalid> wrote:
John L. Weatherly
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:29 pm
Guest
Ignoramus10675 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/06-Mounting-Axle/

Pssst! It's easier to flip it without the axles installed. Slide 'em under
with a floor jack when it's right side up.

Also, hit the spring bolt nuts with an impact with enough ass to bury the
knurl into the spring hanger bracket hole. Then back off just enough to
allow the spring to move.

You've got the right orientation on the bolts; heads out, nuts in.
Otherwise you'll shred your tires with the first heavy bump. Weeeeee!

Starting to look like a trailer...

--
John L. Weatherly
Nashville, TN

please remove XXXs to reply via email
Steve B
Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 1:14 pm
Guest
"Ignoramus5566" <ignoramus5566@NOSPAM.5566.invalid> wrote in message
news:0sGdnSOpG_7KdSDYnZ2dnUVZ_sPinZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote:
On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 22:19:26 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:

"Ignoramus10675" <ignoramus10675@NOSPAM.10675.invalid> wrote in message
news:H96dna9_ZbEUGyDYnZ2dnUVZ_uvinZ2d@giganews.com...
Finished A frame:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/05-Welding-Frame/

Mounted axle hangers on 1/4" thick pads (1/4-2x2 angle):

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/06-Mounting-Axle/

If that's 7018, you're getting the hang of it. You are getting just a
little undercut on the sides. Slow down just a tad and let the puddle
get
just big enough to fill it up to the right level. You might want to
focus
your attention to the 2 o'clock position of the puddle where you can see
the
arc and that portion of the puddle that needs to fill in where it is now
undercutting. But, your welds look pretty good.

Steve, thanks, yes, it was 7018.

i

Just a wild guess. ;-)

Steve
Edward A. Falk
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:11 pm
Guest
Is it really cost-effective to build a trailer from scratch rather than
pick up a used one? I'm thinking of doing the same myself.

Are you using new-bought steel?

p.s. nice welds. You did this with just a stick welder?

--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Steve B
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:30 pm
Guest
"Edward A. Falk" <falk@green.rahul.net> wrote in message
news:epreom$v7d$2@blue.rahul.net...
Quote:
Is it really cost-effective to build a trailer from scratch rather than
pick up a used one? I'm thinking of doing the same myself.

Are you using new-bought steel?

p.s. nice welds. You did this with just a stick welder?

--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/

Good question.

The answer is yes, no, definitely, and maybe.

I needed an ATV trailer a couple of years ago. I went to the local trailer
dealer, and what I wanted was $1100. It is powder coated, light, has a
3500# rating (which I think is optimistic) came with a spare, has two drop
down back ramps, and was fully wired.

I COULD have made the thing. I would have spent a lot of time, and not as
much money, and then would have had to have it powder coated, then wired it.

It depends on how much time you have, and how much you like to putter.

I don't have the time now, and since heart surgery, I don't like to lift
steel unless it's laying across my leg.

I was very happy to just go there and drive my new baby home. It has been a
very good trailer so far, getting lots of use, with the most load about
1500#.

Lots of guys say, "I got the labor for free." Balderdash. Sure, they pay
Mexicans $8 per hour to weld and I charge $50. Figuring out everything it
costs in materials, then adding up the hours at what I charge, I definitely
can buy one cheaper than I can make one.

Now, me making the trailer wouldn't have taken me away from any $50 per hour
work, but I learned a long time ago in the welding field not to give your
work away too cheap. If someone doesn't want to pay me what I'm worth, I'd
just as soon go fishing or take a nap. I'm retired now, but when I was
working, the attitude was the same. And I don't look at work I do for
myself as "free" when I walk through my shop and mentally start adding up
what all that stuff cost me.

If one needs a really special trailer to haul a particular piece of
equipment, or to do something special, that's when I love making special
trailers. I made one that was fold out for Scout Compares, and it brought
in many a looker, all asking how much I'd make them one for. I just said I
was too busy to build any more. Which was partially true. Like guys who
have landscaping trailers made for all those connectors and tools, they
can't go buy something like that.

I'm rambling.

Steve
Steve B
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:02 pm
Guest
Quote:
"Edward A. Falk" <falk@green.rahul.net> wrote in message
news:epreom$v7d$2@blue.rahul.net...
Is it really cost-effective to build a trailer from scratch rather than
pick up a used one? I'm thinking of doing the same myself.

Are you using new-bought steel?

p.s. nice welds. You did this with just a stick welder?

--
-Ed Falk

I wrote an earlier answer, but I'd like to add something.

(the following, both positive and negative goes for me, too)

Lots of guys just like to work with their hands. They spend more time on a
project than is sensible sometimes, and pay more than what they could have
bought the same thing from.

When I started doing wrought iron, I did it as a sideline, and did it from
my garage. One day, I told my mentor that I was feeling a little
inadequate, not being able to figure some things out, weld good, and install
efficiently.

He said, "Don't worry about it. You're getting on the job training, and
you're getting paid for it." That makes sense. I went from there to steel
erection contractor.

For a guy to go out and scrounge parts and metal and spend lots of time and
knuckle skin on a project may seem foolish to some.

But, when one assesses all the skill, confidence, and experiences gained by
daring to learn this, it's a pretty good deal. Anyone can drive down to
Trailers-R-Us and drive a new trailer home. Not much daring there.

All Hail the Iggys of the World! They're the ones that get things done,
forge new trails, and invent new things.

Steve
Ignoramus20785
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:02 pm
Guest
On Thu, 1 Feb 2007 01:11:50 +0000 (UTC), Edward A. Falk <falk@green.rahul.net> wrote:
Quote:
Is it really cost-effective to build a trailer from scratch rather than
pick up a used one? I'm thinking of doing the same myself.

I think that the answer is, generally, no.

Quote:
Are you using new-bought steel?

Yes.

Quote:
p.s. nice welds. You did this with just a stick welder?

I do not think that they are that great, but they will hold -- yes,
I did that just with 7018 electrodes.

i
Ignoramus20785
Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:04 pm
Guest
Very wisely said.

i

On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 17:30:00 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:
Quote:

"Edward A. Falk" <falk@green.rahul.net> wrote in message
news:epreom$v7d$2@blue.rahul.net...
Is it really cost-effective to build a trailer from scratch rather than
pick up a used one? I'm thinking of doing the same myself.

Are you using new-bought steel?

p.s. nice welds. You did this with just a stick welder?


Good question.

The answer is yes, no, definitely, and maybe.

I needed an ATV trailer a couple of years ago. I went to the local trailer
dealer, and what I wanted was $1100. It is powder coated, light, has a
3500# rating (which I think is optimistic) came with a spare, has two drop
down back ramps, and was fully wired.

I COULD have made the thing. I would have spent a lot of time, and not as
much money, and then would have had to have it powder coated, then wired it.

It depends on how much time you have, and how much you like to putter.

I don't have the time now, and since heart surgery, I don't like to lift
steel unless it's laying across my leg.

I was very happy to just go there and drive my new baby home. It has been a
very good trailer so far, getting lots of use, with the most load about
1500#.

Lots of guys say, "I got the labor for free." Balderdash. Sure, they pay
Mexicans $8 per hour to weld and I charge $50. Figuring out everything it
costs in materials, then adding up the hours at what I charge, I definitely
can buy one cheaper than I can make one.

Now, me making the trailer wouldn't have taken me away from any $50 per hour
work, but I learned a long time ago in the welding field not to give your
work away too cheap. If someone doesn't want to pay me what I'm worth, I'd
just as soon go fishing or take a nap. I'm retired now, but when I was
working, the attitude was the same. And I don't look at work I do for
myself as "free" when I walk through my shop and mentally start adding up
what all that stuff cost me.

If one needs a really special trailer to haul a particular piece of
equipment, or to do something special, that's when I love making special
trailers. I made one that was fold out for Scout Compares, and it brought
in many a looker, all asking how much I'd make them one for. I just said I
was too busy to build any more. Which was partially true. Like guys who
have landscaping trailers made for all those connectors and tools, they
can't go buy something like that.

I'm rambling.

Steve

Kerry
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 10:17 am
Guest
I found a popup camper in terrible shape for $100. Once all of the "camper"
was removed I had a great 6 X 8 bed that I stiffened here and there and
welded uprights onto. From there a bunch of PT planking was bolted to the
floor through some angle iron I had welded to the crossmembers. And I made
the side fences by bolting PT planks to the uprights. If I were to do it
again I would likely buy expanded metal for the floor and cut 2 pieces of
1/2 plywood to drop onto the floor when I am using it to carry stuff that
shouldn't get wet or dirty from the road.

The neatest thing is the leveling legs that came with the camper I left on
when it was transformed into a utility trailer. Now I can pull it to a
jobsite set the 4 leveling legs and unhook the truck to go get COFFEE!

OK some might say I cheated a bit but total cost was $800 including the $400
I spent on the Sears AC/DC stick welder. It was my second project and
pretty much how I learned to weld. Though the gang here answered a lot of
questions for me. That was 8 yrs ago. Other then tires and repacking the
bearings when I remember to there hasn't been any other upkeep. Though the
bride did paint the fence and floor planks with some left over house trim
paint.


"Edward A. Falk" <falk@green.rahul.net> wrote in message
news:epreom$v7d$2@blue.rahul.net...
Quote:
Is it really cost-effective to build a trailer from scratch rather than
pick up a used one? I'm thinking of doing the same myself.

Are you using new-bought steel?

p.s. nice welds. You did this with just a stick welder?

--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
Ignoramus22134
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 10:24 am
Guest
On Thu, 01 Feb 2007 14:17:49 GMT, Kerry <vze4j72k@verizon.net> wrote:
Quote:
I found a popup camper in terrible shape for $100. Once all of the "camper"
was removed I had a great 6 X 8 bed that I stiffened here and there and
welded uprights onto. From there a bunch of PT planking was bolted to the
floor through some angle iron I had welded to the crossmembers. And I made
the side fences by bolting PT planks to the uprights. If I were to do it
again I would likely buy expanded metal for the floor and cut 2 pieces of
1/2 plywood to drop onto the floor when I am using it to carry stuff that
shouldn't get wet or dirty from the road.

The neatest thing is the leveling legs that came with the camper I left on
when it was transformed into a utility trailer. Now I can pull it to a
jobsite set the 4 leveling legs and unhook the truck to go get COFFEE!

OK some might say I cheated a bit but total cost was $800 including the $400
I spent on the Sears AC/DC stick welder. It was my second project and
pretty much how I learned to weld. Though the gang here answered a lot of
questions for me. That was 8 yrs ago. Other then tires and repacking the
bearings when I remember to there hasn't been any other upkeep. Though the
bride did paint the fence and floor planks with some left over house trim
paint.

Sounds like a great success to me! I wish I could say that 8 years
from now (I have good hopes).

I think that I will simply register it as a 5k trailer.

i
Steve B
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:57 pm
Guest
"Ignoramus22134" <ignoramus22134@NOSPAM.22134.invalid> wrote in message
news:GcKdnd0xmLSpZVzYnZ2dnUVZ_tLinZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote:
On Thu, 01 Feb 2007 14:17:49 GMT, Kerry <vze4j72k@verizon.net> wrote:
I found a popup camper in terrible shape for $100. Once all of the
"camper"
was removed I had a great 6 X 8 bed that I stiffened here and there and
welded uprights onto. From there a bunch of PT planking was bolted to
the
floor through some angle iron I had welded to the crossmembers. And I
made
the side fences by bolting PT planks to the uprights. If I were to do it
again I would likely buy expanded metal for the floor and cut 2 pieces of
1/2 plywood to drop onto the floor when I am using it to carry stuff that
shouldn't get wet or dirty from the road.

The neatest thing is the leveling legs that came with the camper I left
on
when it was transformed into a utility trailer. Now I can pull it to a
jobsite set the 4 leveling legs and unhook the truck to go get COFFEE!

OK some might say I cheated a bit but total cost was $800 including the
$400
I spent on the Sears AC/DC stick welder. It was my second project and
pretty much how I learned to weld. Though the gang here answered a lot
of
questions for me. That was 8 yrs ago. Other then tires and repacking the
bearings when I remember to there hasn't been any other upkeep. Though
the
bride did paint the fence and floor planks with some left over house trim
paint.

Sounds like a great success to me! I wish I could say that 8 years
from now (I have good hopes).

I think that I will simply register it as a 5k trailer.

i

Whatever you do, get a book or instructions on how they classify these, so
that next time, BEFORE you build it, you can be sure you won't have to jump
through hoops to register it.

Steve
Ignoramus22134
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 1:32 pm
Guest
On Thu, 1 Feb 2007 08:57:58 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:
Quote:
Sounds like a great success to me! I wish I could say that 8 years
from now (I have good hopes).

I think that I will simply register it as a 5k trailer.

i

Whatever you do, get a book or instructions on how they classify these, so
that next time, BEFORE you build it, you can be sure you won't have to jump
through hoops to register it.

Steve, I just got it registered (applied at Currency Exchange and got
all paperwork done), as a 5,000 lbs trailer. I will hopefully get my
registration papers in 11 days. Problem solved.

The 5,000 lbs rating is not at all unreasonable for this trailer,
makes a lot of things easier, and applies a little bit of conservatism
to the rating also. The original M105A2 trailer was rated for 1.5 ton
payload, which is exactly what my 5k rating also implies. The military
rating was extremely conservative.

i
 
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