My new Powermax 380 was described as having "shielded consumables",
implying drag cutting ability. But the Operator Manual says that the
torch should be held 1/16" above the work. So I guess that it is not a
drag-cutting machine 8-( I really wouldn't care except that keeping the
torch 1/16" away seems like it will be a real challenge. 'Course they
don't give a tolerance on the 1/16. As I understand it, contact is a
no-no as the arc will transfer to the nozzle will harsh effects on its
life. As to the maximum spacing ... ???

Any words of advice? Either in terms of the importance of the spacing,
or manual technique to keep the spacing, or the practicality of making
a spacer to keep the distance.

Thanks,
Bob

I have a 600 and optional RT60 torch...

You have a protective screw on - the part that can touch the metal -
It has 4 posts that point outward in axis of the beam that flows between.
...

My new Powermax 380 was described as having "shielded consumables",
implying drag cutting ability. But the Operator Manual says that the
torch should be held 1/16" above the work. So I guess that it is not a
drag-cutting machine 8-( I really wouldn't care except that keeping the
torch 1/16" away seems like it will be a real challenge. 'Course they
don't give a tolerance on the 1/16. As I understand it, contact is a
no-no as the arc will transfer to the nozzle will harsh effects on its
life. As to the maximum spacing ... ???

Any words of advice? Either in terms of the importance of the spacing,
or manual technique to keep the spacing, or the practicality of making
a spacer to keep the distance.

Thanks,
Bob

You can drag cut with that machine, but not on metal heavier than 14 ga
running on 110v or 1/8" running on 220v.
Great! That's what I wanted to hear.

I learned this from experience with the 380 we had at South Seattle.
That's also what I wanted to hear.

Nice machine.
Well, I Googled SEJW archives and found your recommendations for it, so

I am surprised you got a 380.
The machine I want to upgrade to is the Hypertherm 30.

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
You can drag cut with that machine, but not on metal heavier than 14 ga
running on 110v or 1/8" running on 220v.
Great! That's what I wanted to hear.

I learned this from experience with the 380 we had at South Seattle.
That's also what I wanted to hear.

Nice machine.
Well, I Googled SEJW archives and found your recommendations for it, so
that was a major consideration.

I am surprised you got a 380.
The machine I want to upgrade to is the Hypertherm 30.

The '30 looked nice (better duty cycle and much lighter), but the 380 is
being closed out and I got a good deal on it: $799.99, where the 30 was
$1035, IIRC. For my limited hobby use, $800 was just barely
justifiable, but not $1035. You should definitely get the 30 .

Thanks,
Bob

In article <8JedndNp3bdB_SDYnZ2dnUVZ_qWvnZ2d@comcast.com>,
Bob Engelhardt <bobengelhardt@comcast.net> wrote:

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
You can drag cut with that machine, but not on metal heavier than 14 ga
running on 110v or 1/8" running on 220v.
Great! That's what I wanted to hear.

I learned this from experience with the 380 we had at South Seattle.
That's also what I wanted to hear.

Nice machine.
Well, I Googled SEJW archives and found your recommendations for it, so
that was a major consideration.

I am surprised you got a 380.
The machine I want to upgrade to is the Hypertherm 30.

The '30 looked nice (better duty cycle and much lighter), but the 380 is
being closed out and I got a good deal on it: $799.99, where the 30 was
$1035, IIRC. For my limited hobby use, $800 was just barely
justifiable, but not $1035. You should definitely get the 30 .

Thanks,
Bob

BTW Remember that you can use a guide to make straight cuts, but it
can't me metal, or at least can't contact the cutting tip.
If the copper tip contacts a metal guide the arc will try to ground
through side of the tip.

I use 5" wooden base molding.
You can get it at any lumber yard and will have the top edge milled down
to about 3/8" thick.
This works perfectly for long straight cuts in sheet metal.

Just hand pick a few really straight pieces in some semi hard wood like
alder or maple.


You can also cut guides from 3/8" MDF or plywood.
This works great for mass producing sheet metal shapes.
You just have to offset your pattern by half the diameter of the cutting
tip.

BTW Remember that you can use a guide to make straight cuts, but it
can't me metal, or at least can't contact the cutting tip.

If the copper tip contacts a metal guide the arc will try to ground
through side of the tip.
....

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
BTW Remember that you can use a guide to make straight cuts, but it

can't me metal, or at least can't contact the cutting tip.



If the copper tip contacts a metal guide the arc will try to ground
through side of the tip.

...

I'm glad you said that, 'cause it makes me think that I don't understand
something. Doesn't "drag cutting" mean that the tip is touching the
work? If so, how is it different than the tip touching a metal guide
that is in contact with the work? If not, what *is* "drag cutting"?

I asked this question on the plasmacutting Yahoo group and got a reply
from Jim Colt, a long time Hypertherm employee. His answer was that the
current is key. Under 40A can be dragged, without appreciable nozzle
wear. The 380 is 27A max, so drag cutting is OK. Piercing should be
started with a stand off and more power is available with standoff
cutting, but dragging works. Which is what Ernie said about dragging
only working on thinner material.

My new Powermax 380 was described as having "shielded consumables",
implying drag cutting ability. But the Operator Manual says that the
torch should be held 1/16" above the work. So I guess that it is not a
drag-cutting machine 8-( I really wouldn't care except that keeping the
torch 1/16" away seems like it will be a real challenge. 'Course they
don't give a tolerance on the 1/16. As I understand it, contact is a
no-no as the arc will transfer to the nozzle will harsh effects on its
life. As to the maximum spacing ... ???

Any words of advice? Either in terms of the importance of the spacing,
or manual technique to keep the spacing, or the practicality of making
a spacer to keep the distance.

Thanks,
Bob