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Ignoramus6496
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 4:53 pm
Guest
I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i
Steve B
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 5:21 pm
Guest
"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote:
I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i

7018 will run AC or DC+. In my experience, though, I have had better
success when using the AC for flat position welding. You can get it nice
and hot for penetration and fusion, but when you go to the other positions,
it gets tricky. Also, on AC, I tend to think (from my experiences) that on
flat welding, it is very (repeat) very important to keep the arc length very
short so that you don't lose the arc and have to start again.

Because we were welding on oil rigs, AC was never used, and I don't have
much experience with AC except what I got on the beach. 7018 run flat on AC
will give you a beautiful strong weld. Just be careful and don't burn
through. May run at a slightly different amperage setting, too. Just go
get some scraps and play. As you find them from the trial and error method,
write down the correct settings on the wall above your welding machine in
crayon. Works for me.

HTH

Steve
Ignoramus6496
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 5:57 pm
Guest
On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 13:21:23 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:
Quote:

"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...
I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i

7018 will run AC or DC+. In my experience, though, I have had better
success when using the AC for flat position welding. You can get it nice
and hot for penetration and fusion, but when you go to the other positions,
it gets tricky. Also, on AC, I tend to think (from my experiences) that on
flat welding, it is very (repeat) very important to keep the arc length very
short so that you don't lose the arc and have to start again.

Because we were welding on oil rigs, AC was never used, and I don't have
much experience with AC except what I got on the beach. 7018 run flat on AC
will give you a beautiful strong weld. Just be careful and don't burn
through. May run at a slightly different amperage setting, too. Just go
get some scraps and play. As you find them from the trial and error method,
write down the correct settings on the wall above your welding machine in
crayon. Works for me.

Steve, I do not have AC, I have a DC welder. Can I use those rods in
DC+ for regular mild steel like trailer making, or is that for
something special?

i
Steve B
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:08 pm
Guest
"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:C8qdnRXtr_tcVybYnZ2dnUVZ_v_inZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 13:21:23 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:

"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...
I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i

7018 will run AC or DC+. In my experience, though, I have had better
success when using the AC for flat position welding. You can get it nice
and hot for penetration and fusion, but when you go to the other
positions,
it gets tricky. Also, on AC, I tend to think (from my experiences) that
on
flat welding, it is very (repeat) very important to keep the arc length
very
short so that you don't lose the arc and have to start again.

Because we were welding on oil rigs, AC was never used, and I don't have
much experience with AC except what I got on the beach. 7018 run flat on
AC
will give you a beautiful strong weld. Just be careful and don't burn
through. May run at a slightly different amperage setting, too. Just go
get some scraps and play. As you find them from the trial and error
method,
write down the correct settings on the wall above your welding machine in
crayon. Works for me.

Steve, I do not have AC, I have a DC welder. Can I use those rods in
DC+ for regular mild steel like trailer making, or is that for
something special?

i


They will work AC or DC+ and "+" ONLY.

It's just that (and I don't know why), on some labeling they do not include
AC.

Any welding book you buy or can get that lists the polarity of rods will
tell you AC or DC+.

But then, you can't always go by the book. One of my favorite use of 3/32"
6011 rod was DC- where the stinger was negative. It is not suggested for
this use, but on thin wall wrought iron repair and installation in the
field, it worked GREAT! And I mean, I could butt weld two pieces of .065"
wall tube and have it look great. But to look at the book, one would
conclude that it couldn't be done. I've had the discussion many times since
then about the practice, but, hey, it works.

Like I say, you'll learn a lot by trial and error. Just write it down
somewhere so you don't forget it.

You're getting there.

Steve
Grant Erwin
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 7:58 pm
Guest
Ignoramus6496 wrote:

Quote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 13:21:23 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:

"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...

I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i

7018 will run AC or DC+. In my experience, though, I have had better
success when using the AC for flat position welding. You can get it nice
and hot for penetration and fusion, but when you go to the other positions,
it gets tricky. Also, on AC, I tend to think (from my experiences) that on
flat welding, it is very (repeat) very important to keep the arc length very
short so that you don't lose the arc and have to start again.

Because we were welding on oil rigs, AC was never used, and I don't have
much experience with AC except what I got on the beach. 7018 run flat on AC
will give you a beautiful strong weld. Just be careful and don't burn
through. May run at a slightly different amperage setting, too. Just go
get some scraps and play. As you find them from the trial and error method,
write down the correct settings on the wall above your welding machine in
crayon. Works for me.


Steve, I do not have AC, I have a DC welder. Can I use those rods in
DC+ for regular mild steel like trailer making, or is that for
something special?

Igor, I never heard of any 7018 rod you couldn't run DCEP on mild steel. Suggest
you simply take a piece of scrap and run a bead. Then you'll know.

Grant
R. Zimmerman
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 8:24 pm
Guest
Normally E 7018 is a DC rod. Electrode positive!
You have purchased the AC version of this electrode. It can be used
either on AC or DC. Personally I do not like them. Something in the flux
makes them more susceptible to porosity at the beginning of your weld bead.
They seemed to be even more difficult to strike up again halfway through
than regular DC rods.
In answer to your question: Yes, they will be fine for welding DC on your
trailer.
You can pretty well know if your welds are going to work. A visual
inspection is all you need. You do not want craters at the end of your
beads, undercut or coldlap. If your welds look decent then they will hold
under normal circumstances.
Randy


"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...
I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i
Ignoramus6496
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:10 pm
Guest
On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 15:58:33 -0800, Grant Erwin <grant@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:
Quote:
Ignoramus6496 wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 13:21:23 -0800, Steve B <dsrttrvlr@aol.com> wrote:

"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...

I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i

7018 will run AC or DC+. In my experience, though, I have had better
success when using the AC for flat position welding. You can get it nice
and hot for penetration and fusion, but when you go to the other positions,
it gets tricky. Also, on AC, I tend to think (from my experiences) that on
flat welding, it is very (repeat) very important to keep the arc length very
short so that you don't lose the arc and have to start again.

Because we were welding on oil rigs, AC was never used, and I don't have
much experience with AC except what I got on the beach. 7018 run flat on AC
will give you a beautiful strong weld. Just be careful and don't burn
through. May run at a slightly different amperage setting, too. Just go
get some scraps and play. As you find them from the trial and error method,
write down the correct settings on the wall above your welding machine in
crayon. Works for me.


Steve, I do not have AC, I have a DC welder. Can I use those rods in
DC+ for regular mild steel like trailer making, or is that for
something special?

Igor, I never heard of any 7018 rod you couldn't run DCEP on mild steel. Suggest
you simply take a piece of scrap and run a bead. Then you'll know.

Grant, relieve my confusion please, does all 7018 rod require DCEP? Or
just 7018 rod that is specifically labeled "reverse polarity"? Thank you

i
Ignoramus6496
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:13 pm
Guest
On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 00:24:44 GMT, R. Zimmerman <m-zimmerman@shaw.ca> wrote:
Quote:
Normally E 7018 is a DC rod. Electrode positive!
You have purchased the AC version of this electrode. It can be used
either on AC or DC. Personally I do not like them. Something in the flux
makes them more susceptible to porosity at the beginning of your weld bead.
They seemed to be even more difficult to strike up again halfway through
than regular DC rods.
In answer to your question: Yes, they will be fine for welding DC on your
trailer.
You can pretty well know if your welds are going to work. A visual
inspection is all you need. You do not want craters at the end of your
beads, undercut or coldlap. If your welds look decent then they will hold
under normal circumstances.
Randy

Randy, thank you. I will try them.

i

Quote:

"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6496@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...
I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i

Brent
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:33 pm
Guest
it runs beautifully on revers polarity it does not run right on
straight

I was always told to run it DCEP and as soon as i saw how nice it ran
that way i never saw a reason not to

On Jan 27, 8:10 pm, Ignoramus6496 <ignoramus6...@NOSPAM.6496.invalid>
wrote:
Quote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 15:58:33 -0800, Grant Erwin <g...@NOSPAMkirkland.net> wrote:
Ignoramus6496 wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 13:21:23 -0800, Steve B <dsrttr...@aol.com> wrote:

"Ignoramus6496" <ignoramus6...@NOSPAM.6496.invalid> wrote in message
news:Y-udnfVVibEmJibYnZ2dnUVZ_r_inZ2d@giganews.com...

I bought some 1/8 7018 electrodes on eBay made by "Washington
Alloy". They turned out to be described as AC/DC+ electrodes. Which
surprised me since most electrodes welding that I have done was with
DC-. My question is, what are they good for, can I use them for
welding my trailer for instance.

i

7018 will run AC or DC+. In my experience, though, I have had better
success when using the AC for flat position welding. You can get it nice
and hot for penetration and fusion, but when you go to the other positions,
it gets tricky. Also, on AC, I tend to think (from my experiences) that on
flat welding, it is very (repeat) very important to keep the arc length very
short so that you don't lose the arc and have to start again.

Because we were welding on oil rigs, AC was never used, and I don't have
much experience with AC except what I got on the beach. 7018 run flat on AC
will give you a beautiful strong weld. Just be careful and don't burn
through. May run at a slightly different amperage setting, too. Just go
get some scraps and play. As you find them from the trial and error method,
write down the correct settings on the wall above your welding machine in
crayon. Works for me.

Steve, I do not have AC, I have a DC welder. Can I use those rods in
DC+ for regular mild steel like trailer making, or is that for
something special?

Igor, I never heard of any 7018 rod you couldn't run DCEP on mild steel. Suggest
you simply take a piece of scrap and run a bead. Then you'll know.Grant, relieve my confusion please, does all 7018 rod require DCEP? Or
just 7018 rod that is specifically labeled "reverse polarity"? Thank you

i
Steve B
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:38 pm
Guest
"Brent" <b_philion@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1169951603.610758.264250@j27g2000cwj.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
it runs beautifully on revers polarity it does not run right on
straight

I was always told to run it DCEP and as soon as i saw how nice it ran
that way i never saw a reason not to


Polarity is confusing.

Straight - stinger negative
Reverse - stinger positive

I finally remembered it by SSN, Social Security Number

SSN - Straight Stinger Negative
Reverse would be opposite that.

DCEP and DCEN are easy.

DC- and DC+ are easy too, because the - and + tells what the electrode
stinger should be.

There's been more than one discussion about polarity and how to remember
what's what with straight, reverse, negative, positive, etc.

Just find one thing that you can remember easily, and stick with that.

For me, it's SSN.

Steve
Brent
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:50 am
Guest
I'm from an electronics background to me it just makes sense at a
bunch of theoretical levels and the way the current is flowing even
the work clamp not being at "Ground" makes perfect sense to me

the trick is explaining it to others

On Jan 27, 7:38 pm, "Steve B" <dsrttr...@aol.com> wrote:
Quote:
"Brent" <b_phil...@hotmail.com> wrote in messagenews:1169951603.610758.264250@j27g2000cwj.googlegroups.com...

it runs beautifully on revers polarity it does not run right on
straight

I was always told to run it DCEP and as soon as i saw how nice it ran
that way i never saw a reason not toPolarity is confusing.

Straight - stinger negative
Reverse - stinger positive

I finally remembered it by SSN, Social Security Number

SSN - Straight Stinger Negative
Reverse would be opposite that.

DCEP and DCEN are easy.

DC- and DC+ are easy too, because the - and + tells what the electrode
stinger should be.

There's been more than one discussion about polarity and how to remember
what's what with straight, reverse, negative, positive, etc.

Just find one thing that you can remember easily, and stick with that.

For me, it's SSN.

Steve
Curt Welch
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:07 pm
Guest
"Brent" <b_philion@hotmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
I'm from an electronics background to me it just makes sense at a
bunch of theoretical levels and the way the current is flowing even
the work clamp not being at "Ground" makes perfect sense to me

That's odd because for an EE, current flows from positive to negative and
the ground tends to be negative in equipment. That would be the normal,
with a positive ground system being reversed. But that's backwards from
DCSP and DCRP.

End the end you just have to use whatever works for you to memorize the
correct answer. My welding instructor likes to think about it as "shooting
electrons" with the stinger. That would be "straight", and if the
electrons are coming back at you, that's reverse.

--
Curt Welch http://CurtWelch.Com/
curt@kcwc.com http://NewsReader.Com/
Ignoramus10675
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:10 pm
Guest
I am a little surprised that so much effort is spent on memorizing a
simple fact that DCEN is straight polarity.

i
Steve B
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:44 pm
Guest
"Ignoramus10675" <ignoramus10675@NOSPAM.10675.invalid> wrote in message
news:HrKdnRfKQ-ycViHYnZ2dnUVZ_h3inZ2d@giganews.com...
Quote:
I am a little surprised that so much effort is spent on memorizing a
simple fact that DCEN is straight polarity.

i

That's because you are one of the smart ones.

Steve Wink who's on the other team.
Steve B
Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:45 pm
Guest
"Brent" <b_philion@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1169995855.604353.103940@m58g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
I'm from an electronics background to me it just makes sense at a
bunch of theoretical levels and the way the current is flowing even
the work clamp not being at "Ground" makes perfect sense to me

the trick is explaining it to others

Wrapping the ground clamp around the work has an effect on the arc and arc
blow, just as various placements of the ground clamp on the weldment can
too. One would think it wouldn't make a difference, but it does.

Steve
 
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