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| Grinder... |
Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:27 pm |
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Guest
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ShadowTek wrote:
Quote: On 2009-09-24, Grinder <grinder at (no spam) no.spam.maam.com> wrote:
You're spending a good amount on a crossfire-ready power supply to power
a board that only has one graphics card slot. Hopefully someone will
correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like you're buying more than
you'll need.
I just picked a safe range. I could probably go a little lower. I just
want to have a reasonable margin of error.
Even if I
pile on a couple of high rpm sata drives, blu-ray, dvd-rw, 4 fans, 2 pci
cards and 4 usb devices, outvision's power supply calculator comes up
with 312W.
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/
I got 483w when I selected %100 load and %50 capacitor aging, so I guess
I could setting for a 500w PS.
Then maybe I can recommend this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129024
I know I'm coming off as an Antec fanboi here, but I've had personal
experience with both of these cases and genuinely recommend them.
What's more, I'm a complete bigot on case design: I only like
well-constructed, minimalist design.
I hope you'll come back after your build with some lessons learned. |
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| Grinder... |
Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:28 pm |
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Guest
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ShadowTek wrote:
Quote: On 2009-09-24, Grinder <grinder at (no spam) no.spam.maam.com> wrote:
You're spending a good amount on a crossfire-ready power supply to power
a board that only has one graphics card slot. Hopefully someone will
correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like you're buying more than
you'll need.
I just picked a safe range. I could probably go a little lower. I just
want to have a reasonable margin of error.
Even if I
pile on a couple of high rpm sata drives, blu-ray, dvd-rw, 4 fans, 2 pci
cards and 4 usb devices, outvision's power supply calculator comes up
with 312W.
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/
I got 483w when I selected %100 load and %50 capacitor aging, so I guess
I could setting for a 500w PS.
Then maybe I can recommend this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129024
I know I'm coming off as an Antec fanboi here, but I've had personal
experience with both of these cases and genuinely recommend them.
What's more, I'm a complete bigot on case design: I only like
well-constructed, minimalist design. |
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| JR Weiss... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:24 am |
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Guest
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ShadowTek wrote:
Quote: I'm not familiar with BFG Tech, but why would you NOT get a
name-brand PSU with 80+ certification?
I read some comments in forums where BFG was referred to being a
decent brand, so I figured it would be ok.
Anyway, I could spend $10 more and get this instead:
GIGABYTE SUPERB GE-P450P-C2 550W ATX12V V2.3 80 PLUS Certified
Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817233010
How about that?
If you don't want to spend more $$, the PCP&C Silencer 420 should work
fine. I don't know where Gigabyte gets their PSUs, either...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703017 |
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| Fishface... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:00 am |
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ShadowTek wrote:
Quote: www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129024
That's a good deal, but I was really wanting a full ATX, and I was also
hoping for PSU fan larger than 80mm.
You may be interested in this regarding 120 mm PSU fans:
http://www.pcpower.com/technology/myths/#m6 |
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| ShadowTek... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:03 am |
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On 2009-09-26, Fishface <fishface at (no spam) invalid.invalid> wrote:
Yeah, that makes sense. |
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| ShadowTek... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:05 am |
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On 2009-09-26, JR Weiss <jrw at (no spam) invalid.invalid> wrote:
Quote:
I don't know where Gigabyte gets their PSUs, either...
The one thing I noticed on the product pages for both the GB motherboard
and the PSU was they state that all their capacitors are Japanese made. |
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| Stefan Patric... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:39 am |
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| kony... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:23 pm |
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Guest
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On Sat, 26 Sep 2009 20:03:13 +0000 (UTC), ShadowTek
<ShadowTek at (no spam) invalid.invalid> wrote:
Yep, but also consider your system won't actually use more
than 250W unless you overclock it pretty far, so with a 500W
or higher capacity, quality built PSU, you could go either
way with the fan.
IMO, one of the more important factors is to get a PSU with
a fan having dual ball bearings, the failure rate within the
life of a system on sleeve bearing fans is just too high
unless you periodically relube them which is a pain on a
120mm PSU fan since the bearing usually can't be accessed
without taking whole PSU out and part. |
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| kony... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:29 pm |
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Guest
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On Sat, 26 Sep 2009 16:39:33 GMT, Stefan Patric
<not at (no spam) thisaddress.com> wrote:
The duct isn't all that useful. The typical intel retail
heatsinks blow down instead of up and most of the best
heatsinks are now a heatpipe design that blows up or
rearward.
I generally just take the ducts off and put a piece of
plastic or cardboard over the hole as it countermines good
airflow by causing a short loop where the exhaust fans just
pull in air through there only to exhaust it after a small #
of inches travel without cooling anything... better to have
more of the exhausted air pulled in through the front
cooling the HDD rack, southbridge.
On the other hand I wish more cases had a fan hole lower
across from the video card AGP/PCIe slot, then you can put
an intake fan there and in front of the HDD rack and have
the best of both worlds. |
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| ShadowTek... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:39 pm |
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Guest
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On 2009-09-26, Grinder <grinder at (no spam) no.spam.maam.com> wrote:
Yeah, it takes a full-ATX board, but I meant that I was hoping to get a
"full" sized tower, as opposed to a mid-sized tower.. |
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| Grinder... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:05 pm |
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Guest
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ShadowTek wrote:
Both of those cases take a full ATX.
Quote: and I was also hoping for PSU fan larger than 80mm.
I'll have to think about it.
Thanks. |
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| spud42... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 4:06 pm |
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Guest
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"ShadowTek" <ShadowTek at (no spam) invalid.invalid> wrote in message news:slrnhbo5c4.fn.ShadowTek at (no spam) desktop.localdomain...
Quote: On 2009-09-24, Grinder <grinder at (no spam) no.spam.maam.com> wrote:
You're spending a good amount on a crossfire-ready power supply to power
a board that only has one graphics card slot. Hopefully someone will
correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like you're buying more than
you'll need.
I just picked a safe range. I could probably go a little lower. I just
want to have a reasonable margin of error.
Even if I
pile on a couple of high rpm sata drives, blu-ray, dvd-rw, 4 fans, 2 pci
cards and 4 usb devices, outvision's power supply calculator comes up
with 312W.
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/
I got 483w when I selected %100 load and %50 capacitor aging, so I guess
I could setting for a 500w PS.
I Got 613 at (no spam) %100 load and %50 capacitor aging Yet I'm using
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139008
Works just fine very stable according to speed fan
the Single +12V rail (30A). might help
double ball-bearing fan 100,000 Hours and 80 PLUS Certified |
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| JR Weiss... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 4:13 pm |
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Guest
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ShadowTek wrote:
Quote: Yeah, it takes a full-ATX board, but I meant that I was hoping to get
a "full" sized tower, as opposed to a mid-sized tower..
Why? What do you plan to put into it that will not fit into a
mid-tower? The mid-tower is the "normal" case size for most home
users... |
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| ShadowTek... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:09 pm |
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Guest
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On 2009-09-27, JR Weiss <jrw at (no spam) invalid.invalid> wrote:
Quote: ShadowTek wrote:
Yeah, it takes a full-ATX board, but I meant that I was hoping to get
a "full" sized tower, as opposed to a mid-sized tower..
Why? What do you plan to put into it that will not fit into a
mid-tower? The mid-tower is the "normal" case size for most home
users...
I'm tired of compact designs that cause you to find out too late that
something you just bought isn't going to fit.
For instance, I read a
review for the previously mentioned Antec case/PS combo where the guy
said that his graphics card's power plug was right where the front case
fan was supposed to go, so he had to do without that fan.
That wouldn't have been a problem if everthing in the case wasn't
crammed in there so tight.
I just don't want to have to deal with any crap like that anymore. I
want to buy a roomy case and be done with it.
It's like that damn Pathfinder of mine. The engine compartment is so
tight that you have to take the whole front end of the engine off just
to change the damn water pump. With my Jeep, the engine compartment is
so roomy that all you needed to do was remove the clutch fan and the
water pump was right there.
No more! lol |
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| kony... |
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 11:24 pm |
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Guest
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On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 04:09:06 +0000 (UTC), ShadowTek
<ShadowTek at (no spam) invalid.invalid> wrote:
Quote: On 2009-09-27, JR Weiss <jrw at (no spam) invalid.invalid> wrote:
ShadowTek wrote:
Yeah, it takes a full-ATX board, but I meant that I was hoping to get
a "full" sized tower, as opposed to a mid-sized tower..
Why? What do you plan to put into it that will not fit into a
mid-tower? The mid-tower is the "normal" case size for most home
users...
I'm tired of compact designs that cause you to find out too late that
something you just bought isn't going to fit.
Full towers don't necessarily give more room to fit
anything, just a greater # of 5.25" bays. The bigger issue
with some cases is the depth, that full length video cards
practically butt-up against hard drives in adjacent bays.
Granted, if you have a full tower you can mount a HDD up in
a top bay given a long SATA cable, but with the typical case
intake in the bottom front it may not get as much airflow
unless you pick the right case or an aftermarket bay cooler,
or improvise.
Quote:
For instance, I read a
review for the previously mentioned Antec case/PS combo where the guy
said that his graphics card's power plug was right where the front case
fan was supposed to go, so he had to do without that fan.
?? That is a strange thing for someone to write, front case
fan is in front of HDD rack, maybe he meant he had to do
away with the front case fan to mount the hard drive further
towards the front of the case?
Quote:
That wouldn't have been a problem if everthing in the case wasn't
crammed in there so tight.
While it can be a pain to assemble a system in the absolute
smallest case possible per the parts used, generally it only
takes a few minutes longer then you enjoy the compact size
often enough to make it worthwhile, plus all else equal a
decent full tower case is pretty heavy and expensive. I'm
not trying to talk you out of one, but even my fileserver is
in a midsized case with.... hmm I forget how many hard
drives but at least 7, while I have an empty full tower case
sitting about 6 feet away from it.
Quote:
I just don't want to have to deal with any crap like that anymore. I
want to buy a roomy case and be done with it.
It's like that damn Pathfinder of mine. The engine compartment is so
tight that you have to take the whole front end of the engine off just
to change the damn water pump. With my Jeep, the engine compartment is
so roomy that all you needed to do was remove the clutch fan and the
water pump was right there.
No more! lol
Ok, but I still think what is closer to your needs is a deep
case rather than a taller (than midtower) one. In the
typical full tower you have the upper rack and the PSU right
above the motherboard still so there isn't actually any more
clearance available, just more rack slots and an empty area
above the PSU where some accomodate a redundant 2nd PSU,
some allow putting in a fan there (unnecessary to have a fan
there).
With a traditional hard drive rack where the data cables
plug into the rearward facing edge of the drive, a case deep
enough to give you some wiggle room with a full length video
card and drives in the rack would be about 19" deep, a
little more if the front case bezel is a fancy shape that
bulges out for some reason. That depth includes space in
front of the drive rack for a typical 1" thick fan, but it
is only an average, case manufacturers can do strange
designs sometimes and if the drive rack is rotated 90' so
the drive plugs face the side panel instead of the back you
can go with an inch or two shorter case but two is pushing
it. |
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