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Proxxon FKS/E or Micro-Mark equivalent mini table saw...

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oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:30 am
Guest
Referring to this table saw;

http://www.miniaturetree.com/imgcategory/257_b.jpg


Has anyone ever used this to cut aluminum say .1"" thick using the 24
teeth carbide blade or similar?
 
David Nebenzahl...
Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 3:41 pm
Guest
On 10/29/2009 12:30 PM oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com spake thus:

Quote:
Referring to this table saw;

http://www.miniaturetree.com/imgcategory/257_b.jpg

Has anyone ever used this to cut aluminum say .1"" thick using the 24
teeth carbide blade or similar?

Without having used it, I can tell you that it will work, although the
cut may be a bit ragged. I have cut aluminum on a larger table saw with
a carbide blade. Usually needs cleaning up afterwards.

In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better. You also might
want to try a fine non-carbide blade (like one made for plywood).


--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?

- harvested from Usenet
 
Greg.Procter...
Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:12 pm
Guest
On Fri, 30 Oct 2009 09:30:10 +1300, oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com <oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com>
wrote:

Quote:
Referring to this table saw;

http://www.miniaturetree.com/imgcategory/257_b.jpg


Has anyone ever used this to cut aluminum say .1"" thick using the 24
teeth carbide blade or similar?



The "rule of thumb" for sawing anything successfully is to have a minimum
of 3 teeth cutting in the material at any given moment.
Less teeth will cut, but extremely roughly with likely damage to the teeth
and to the material.
For 0.1" thick material you need 30 teeth per inch or more.
I personally would have a go with a saw of 20 or more teeth per inch, but
carefully.

Greg.P.
 
oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:53 am
Guest
Quote:
In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better.

Agree. However, the 24 tooth (2.3 T/I) carbide is what the attached
recommends for aluminum thicker than 1/16";

https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80463i/arbor_saw.htm

I also asked Micro-Mark tech support what were their thoughts and they
recommended the following abrasive cut off disk;

http://www.micromark.com/ABRASIVE-CUT-OFF-DISK-NON-FERROUS-3-1and4-DIA-10mm-HOLE,8115.html

My experience with abrasive disks for cutting has never been good.
ISTR sparks flying, an obnoxious odor and the process taking forever.

I'm leaning towards the 168 tooth (17 T/I) jeweler's blade which is
recommended for soft brass up to 1/8"...What do you think?

On Oct 29, 5:41 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:
>
 
oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:09 am
Guest
Quote:
For 0.1" thick material you need 30 teeth per inch or more.

RPM should also be a factor when considering rotary saws. I'm able to
rip 1/16" aluminum sheeting using a 7 T/I blade and the finish looks
like a metal shear prtess was used. No sanding required. However,
things start getting ragged when thickness approaches .1".


On Oct 29, 9:12 pm, "Greg.Procter" <proc... at (no spam) ihug.co.nz> wrote:
>
 
David Nebenzahl...
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:46 pm
Guest
On 10/30/2009 8:53 AM oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com spake thus:
Quote:

On Oct 29, 5:41 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:

In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better.

Agree. However, the 24 tooth (2.3 T/I) carbide is what the attached
recommends for aluminum thicker than 1/16";

https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80463i/arbor_saw.htm

OK. I'd at least consider their recommendation.

Quote:
I also asked Micro-Mark tech support what were their thoughts and they
recommended the following abrasive cut off disk;

http://www.micromark.com/ABRASIVE-CUT-OFF-DISK-NON-FERROUS-3-1and4-DIA-10mm-HOLE,8115.html

My experience with abrasive disks for cutting has never been good.
ISTR sparks flying, an obnoxious odor and the process taking forever.

I wouldn't use an abrasive disk for cutting aluminum. Too soft, and
leaves a *really* jagged edge. Works OK for ferrous metals.

Quote:
I'm leaning towards the 168 tooth (17 T/I) jeweler's blade which is
recommended for soft brass up to 1/8"...What do you think?

Aluminum's softer than brass, or about as soft, so it *should* work. I'd
try it, so long as the blade's not super-expensive.


--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?

- harvested from Usenet
 
oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:42 pm
Guest
Quote:
I'd try it, so long as the blade's not super-expensive.

Actually, it's $10.00 cheaper than the carbide blade. Thanks!

On Oct 30, 2:46 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:
>
 
Bob May...
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:06 pm
Guest
I'd be most worried about the ability of the motor to drivve the blade.
Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot smoother than
if cut dry. The blade will also not fill with aluminum and thus keep a
better cutting.

--
Bob May

rmay at nethere.com
http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay
http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net
 
oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 3:00 am
Guest
Quote:
Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot
smoother than if cut dry.

I never cut dry, that's one sure way to wear out cutting tools fast as
well. Always used a lube "crayon". Works well and less messy than oil.

On Oct 31, 1:06 am, "Bob May" <bob... at (no spam) nethere.com> wrote:
>
 
David Nebenzahl...
Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 4:23 pm
Guest
On 10/31/2009 5:00 AM oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com spake thus:

Quote:
Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot
smoother than if cut dry.

I never cut dry, that's one sure way to wear out cutting tools fast as
well. Always used a lube "crayon". Works well and less messy than oil.

Ackshooly, no lube on a saw blade is going to do much good, as it's all
gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade (unless one
has a steady flow of oil or something). Oil *is* messy. No lubricant
required for this sort of cutting.


--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?

- harvested from Usenet
 
NICHE541...
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:55 pm
Guest
On Oct 30, 10:53 am, "op... at (no spam) hotmail.com" <op... at (no spam) hotmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better.

Agree. However, the 24 tooth (2.3 T/I) carbide is what the attached
recommends for aluminum thicker than 1/16";

https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80463i/arbor_saw.htm

I also asked Micro-Mark tech support what were their thoughts and they
recommended the following abrasive cut off disk;

http://www.micromark.com/ABRASIVE-CUT-OFF-DISK-NON-FERROUS-3-1and4-DI...

My experience with abrasive disks for cutting has never been good.
ISTR sparks flying, an obnoxious odor and the process taking forever.

 I'm leaning towards the 168 tooth (17 T/I) jeweler's blade which is
recommended for soft brass up to 1/8"...What do you think?

On Oct 29, 5:41 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:



I agree with you Opar that the 168 tooth blade is the way to go. My
father was an industrial arts teacher and I learned from him some 54
years ago. In the time since then I have cut all types of metals and
woods and the rule has always been to use higher number of teeth per
inch or centimeter, however you want to measure, if you want a fine
cut.
John Hubbard
 
oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:43 pm
Guest
Quote:
as it's all gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade

I can see you've never used a lube "crayon".

On Oct 31, 5:23 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:
>
 
oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:03 pm
Guest
Quote:
I agree with you Opar that the 168 tooth blade is the way to go.

Got the machine and the 168T blade yesterday. It cut through the .1"
alu like butter leaving a mirror looking finish as though it was
milled. Exactly what I was looking for. BTW, for those in the USA,
MIcro-Mark has a sale on the Proxxon FKS/E "clone" (doesn't look as
impressive but made by Proxxon using same parts and spec) for $259.95,
that's $90.00 off their usual price of $349.95. Even at $259.95 it's
overpriced IMO but I needed something small, quiet, with variable
speed and a finished cut.

On Nov 3, 9:55 pm, NICHE541 <oikos... at (no spam) yahoo.com> wrote:
>
 
oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com...
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:20 pm
Guest
Quote:
Well, I've used wax (candle wax) to lubricate all kinds of tools.

Try this;

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31kw6Js%2BnCL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

Just touch it to the blade while spinning. Good for several cuts, just
re-apply on the fly between cuts. Much better than oil.

On Nov 4, 8:37 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:
>
 
David Nebenzahl...
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:37 pm
Guest
On 11/4/2009 4:43 PM oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com spake thus:

Quote:
On Oct 31, 5:23 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:

as it's all gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade

I can see you've never used a lube "crayon".

Well, I've used wax (candle wax) to lubricate all kinds of tools. But
that lube isn't going to stay there forever; just saying that it gets
worn off pretty quickly.


--
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?

- harvested from Usenet
 
 
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