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| oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com... |
 Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:57 am |
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Hi, what would be the best way to go about filling voids and
reconstructing edges on plastic items? Not certain what type of
plastic it is but I'm guessing some sort of activator can be used to
treat surfaces before applying epoxy/filler/whatever. Think of a cube
with small chips, craters, voids at edges and corners.
Trying to avoid anything too liquid and would prefer something more
like putty or clay which would not have to be retained while drying
and could be sanded easily afterwards.
Thanks! |
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| oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:09 am |
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Quote: Two sources of information and help would be artist supply shops
handling casting materials.
Pearl Paint comes to mind. I have casting/moulding products from them
but they are too liquid for this application. However, I can enquire
there for something more suitable.
Quote: The other source would be a dealer in sheet and rod
plastics
McMaster-Carr comes to mind. Buy from them often and that's the first
place I checked. They sell plastic repair putty, activators and just
about eveything under the sun for plastics. Knowing what to buy is the
problem. I can enquire there too.
Quote: But without exact knowledge of what type of plastic you want to repair,
it's impossible to give you specific advice.
It's probably Norly (Polyphenylene Oxide).
Thanks for your help.
On Oct 12, 10:10 am, Wolf K <weki... at (no spam) sympatico.ca> wrote:
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| vista bill... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:36 am |
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On Oct 12, 9:57 am, "op... at (no spam) hotmail.com" <op... at (no spam) hotmail.com> wrote:
Quote: Hi, what would be the best way to go about filling voids and
reconstructing edges on plastic items? Not certain what type of
plastic it is but I'm guessing some sort of activator can be used to
treat surfaces before applying epoxy/filler/whatever. Think of a cube
with small chips, craters, voids at edges and corners.
Trying to avoid anything too liquid and would prefer something more
like putty or clay which would not have to be retained while drying
and could be sanded easily afterwards.
Thanks!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Perhaps this will help...
http://www.thistothat.com/
Bill
Bill's Railroad Empire
http://www.billsrailroad.net |
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| Special Agent Melvin Purvis (Northern California zone... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:48 am |
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On Oct 12, 10:36�am, vista bill <billsrremp... at (no spam) gmail.com> wrote:
Quote: On Oct 12, 9:57�am, "op... at (no spam) hotmail.com" <op... at (no spam) hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi, what would be the best way to go about filling voids and
reconstructing edges on plastic items? Not certain what type of
plastic it is but I'm guessing some sort of activator can be used to
treat surfaces before applying epoxy/filler/whatever. Think of a cube
with small chips, craters, voids at edges and corners.
Trying to avoid anything too liquid and would prefer something more
like putty or clay which would not have to be retained while drying
and could be sanded easily afterwards.
Thanks!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------�-----------------------------------
Perhaps this will help...
http://www.thistothat.com/
Bill
Bill's Railroad Empirehttp://www.billsrailroad.net
Get a small can of Bondo at the auto parts store. It answers all of
your requirements. |
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| oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:09 am |
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Quote: Got something better than that?
I'm leaning towards one of the putties below from McMaster-
Carr...."Use on fiberglass (FRP), metal, wood, and all plastics except
polystyrene." . I like the "all plastics except..." bit. But I'm still
open to further advice especially if someone has similar experience
with a particular product.
==========================================================
Light-Activated Fiberglass Repair Putties and Patch
Permanently repair fiberglass (FRP) with help from the sun or a UV
lamp. These products are VOC compliant in all 50 states as of October
1, 2008.
Putties— Perfect for outdoor work, these glass and ceramic fiber-
reinforced putties harden quickly with exposure to direct sunlight or
a UV lamp even in extreme cold. Use on fiberglass (FRP), metal, wood,
and all plastics except polystyrene. Drill, tap, sand, and paint at
full strength. Apply at -20° to +120° F. 3.5 oz. covers approximately
49 sq. in. at 1/8" thick.
Polyester resin filler fills gaps up to 3/4". Begins to harden in
30 seconds; reaches full strength in 3 minutes. Operating temperature
is -20° to +200° F.
Vinyl ester epoxy resin filler has higher strength, better
adhesion, and more corrosion resistance than the polyester resin
filler. Fills gaps up to 1/2". Begins to harden in 30 seconds;
reaches full strength in 5 minutes. Operating temperature is -20° to
+250° F.
Patch— Fiberglass-reinforced polyester and waterproof. Repairs
fiberglass (FRP), metal, plastic, concrete, rubber, and wood. Cut to
desired size, peel off backing, and press onto surface. Drill, sand,
and paint at full strength. Reaches full strength in 5-15 minutes in
the sun; 15-30 minutes under a UV lamp. Operating temperature is -40°
to +350° F.
==================================================================================
On Oct 12, 1:53 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob... at (no spam) but.us.chickens> wrote:
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| Wolf K... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:10 am |
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Guest
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oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com wrote:
Quote: Hi, what would be the best way to go about filling voids and
reconstructing edges on plastic items? Not certain what type of
plastic it is but I'm guessing some sort of activator can be used to
treat surfaces before applying epoxy/filler/whatever. Think of a cube
with small chips, craters, voids at edges and corners.
Trying to avoid anything too liquid and would prefer something more
like putty or clay which would not have to be retained while drying
and could be sanded easily afterwards.
Thanks!
Two sources of information and help would be artist supply shops
handling casting materials. Many types of plastic are used for making
figurines, etc. The other source would be a dealer in sheet and rod
plastics, larger cities usually have one, as these materials are often
used for displays and signs, etc.
But without exact knowledge of what type of plastic you want to repair,
it's impossible to give you specific advice. Not that i can give much:
my experience is limited to styrene and PVC. You can find styrene
plastic putty at any good hobby shop. Glue for PVC is available wherever
plumbing supplies are sold. |
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| oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:20 am |
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Guest
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Quote: Get a small can of Bondo at the auto parts store. It answers all of
your requirements
Yes, Bondo came up in previous "plastic repair" searches but I gather
it doesn't work well with plastic. Here is a Googled quote;
=======================================================Also a couple days ago before I posted this thread I contacted Bondo
when I got the idea, They just now contacted me back-"Bondo does not
work well on plastic, I would recommend using our Dynatron #662 Semi
Rigid Epoxy Repair kit."
=======================================================
On Oct 12, 1:48 pm, "Special Agent Melvin Purvis (Northern California
zone 17)" <videoc... at (no spam) aol.com> wrote:
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| David Nebenzahl... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:53 am |
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On 10/12/2009 10:36 AM vista bill spake thus:
Quote: On Oct 12, 9:57 am, "op... at (no spam) hotmail.com" <op... at (no spam) hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi, what would be the best way to go about filling voids and
reconstructing edges on plastic items? Not certain what type of
plastic it is but I'm guessing some sort of activator can be used to
treat surfaces before applying epoxy/filler/whatever. Think of a cube
with small chips, craters, voids at edges and corners.
Perhaps this will help...
http://www.thistothat.com/
Nope, won't help. "This to that" has got to be one of the lamest sources
of "information" on the web. Nothing more than conventional wisdom.
Got something better than that?
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism |
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| PV... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:54 pm |
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vista bill <billsrrempire at (no spam) gmail.com> writes:
Maybe not in the poster's case, but it's a really handy site I made a
bookmark to. Thanks! *
--
* PV Something like badgers, something like lizards, and something
like corkscrews. |
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| Bob May... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:30 pm |
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Stop by the hobby store and they have some bondo type stuff for filling
voids. The model car and so forth people use it a lot. Also you can
consider stopping by the auto parts store and in the bondo section is the
finishing putty which is basically the same stuff.
For corners that are going to be taking abuse, I'd more consider making my
own by dissolving some of the plastic in whatever will disolve it and making
a paste with that. Some plastics tho don't have dissolvers that work well
but you will find that those plastics won't bond to anything. Delrin is one
example.
--
Bob May
rmay at nethere.com
http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay
http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net |
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| mike mueller... |
| Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:02 pm |
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oparr at (no spam) hotmail.com wrote:
Quote: Hi, what would be the best way to go about filling voids and
reconstructing edges on plastic items? Not certain what type of
plastic it is but I'm guessing some sort of activator can be used to
treat surfaces before applying epoxy/filler/whatever. Think of a cube
with small chips, craters, voids at edges and corners.
Trying to avoid anything too liquid and would prefer something more
like putty or clay which would not have to be retained while drying
and could be sanded easily afterwards.
Thanks!
If I understand your question correctly, you need to find something that
will attach a tiny piece of plastic to an edge to repair it. Every city
has a plastic supplier or fabricator. Bring your piece to them and ask
them how to best repair, fill or fix the damaged corners and edges.
Mike M |
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