There are to many factors to really have a true system based on solid data.
Just the height and reach of one climber vs another could change the rating
for one or the other. Type of rock, hold size, over-vertical, under vertical
etc, etc, etc,. Take Maple canyon, Utah vs Joshua tree... Maple has round
smooth cobblestone type holds and Joshua has sandstone.

Sandstone in JT? That's a new one for me.

[Try granite. Some of it it very sharp/rough as in skin you alive
if you slip.]

Ratzzz...(Ohhhh, and you don't need to fall to loose skin in Joshua. My
costume that year was the mummy and I didn't need to use any fake blood on
my gauze wrap. It was all mine...)

Sandstone in JT? That's a new one for me.

[Try granite. Some of it it very sharp/rough as in skin you alive
if you slip.]

You ask them:
Did you lead it?

Eugene writes:

You ask them:
Did you lead it?

Without an eighty foot stick clip...???

Ratzzz...

That's what I forgot. String out a lot of 5.8 moves on a pitch and you
can justify calling it a 5.9

That's what I forgot. String out a lot of 5.8 moves on a pitch and you
can justify calling it a 5.9

"Sustained 5.8."

How 'bout 5.8+?

Do you use R or X?

Or MA...???(Parental permission only)

"Michael A. Riches" <rockrat9 at (no spam) comcast.net> wrote
That's what I forgot. String out a lot of 5.8 moves on a pitch and you
can justify calling it a 5.9

"Sustained 5.8."

How 'bout 5.8+?

Do you use R or X?

Or MA...???(Parental permission only)


Eugene, I use both R and X, preferably together and mixed with copious
quantities of alcohol. Honestly, I don't know anymore. I'm a generation
apart from the gremmies at the crags these days. Back in the old days, if
you paddled out into the lineup and showed any sign of weakness or dis-
respect, the best you could ask for was a cold shoulder.

Climbing is for Mature-Audiences only.

If you haven't been twenty feet from your last
shaky piece wondering "wtf am i doing here i could be watching hogans
heroes eating chips and drinking beer i don't care if chouinard put up
this route he's prolly an asshole anyway omfg did he just say i only have
ten more feet of rope or ten more meters", then you probably shouldn't
say you're a climber. But I digress.

Dwight

Things are a changing...

Climbing is for Mature-Audiences only.

Damn....Guess that kinda kills it fer me...

Well, at least most of us made it thru those early years. Looking back, I
sometimes wonder how...

J Tree does not have sandstone but a type of granite. But it is certainly
different frpm Maple Tree Canyon. Maple Tree is round stones partially
buried in mud. Climbing is not recommended on or immediately after wet
days, but a fun place as is J Tree. Old Guy

I did?
Well it wasn't as good as my friend Wayne catching Henry Barber on some
geologic point.

OK. Get sober.

J Tree does not have sandstone but a type of granite. But it is certainly
different frpm Maple Tree Canyon. Maple Tree is round stones partially
buried in mud. Climbing is not recommended on or immediately after wet
days, but a fun place as is J Tree. Old Guy

Ya...My bad, Eugene caught me on that one, too...

Ratzzz...(repeat after me, no posting unless sober, no posting unless
sober....)

Aging.
I know. I get touches of it myself.
Hal doesn't know geology.
I've loaned him 2 basic geo texts, and he's yet to read them.
He's current more interested in carbon based life forms (I gave him that
field camp filled
with biologists last year, more than 1/2 of them women).
He hasn't been grilled by pro geos.

OK. Get sober.
Easy enough said...Hic,
Ratzzz...(Tomorrow I will, promise...)

Do your best.
Don't run anybody over.