Am poking around the bags of parts in the 2005 repop of the Monogram
"Big T". Lots and lots of chrome pieces. Curious as to how to make
the seam for the large chrome tank a little less noticeable, There
are at least 5 bags of chrome with this 17" monster.

Silver paint has no gloss to it and will stand out like a grey line
along the chrome. have never used foil. Will that stuff really work
on thin seams? Is foil removable if your attempts at application
suck?


How do you car builders deal with chrome ? I am an old plane and
target builder where battle damage and mud could hide any error.
Won't work in this case.



Thx all - Craig

The other way to deal with the seam would be to strip the chrome, fill,
prime, and use Alclad Chrome over a black gloss acrylic base. The stuff is
amazing.

I agree with all of the above, i.e. for show, chrometech, for your own
enjoyment, Alclad.

If you're dead set on foiling, I'd fix the seam then foil the whole
thing as, at least in my experience, foil doesn't match the plated
surface well enough to fool the eye when they're side-by-side

on 7/16/2008 3:46 PM OldSchool said the following:

I agree with all of the above, i.e. for show, chrometech, for your own
enjoyment, Alclad.

If you're dead set on foiling, I'd fix the seam then foil the whole
thing as, at least in my experience, foil doesn't match the plated
surface well enough to fool the eye when they're side-by-side

The chrome plating on model car models is too shiny for scale anyway.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after at (no spam)

The chrome plating on model car models is too shiny for scale anyway.

--

Bill

On Jul 16, 4:09 pm, willshak <wills... at (no spam) 00hvc.rr.com> wrote:

on 7/16/2008 3:46 PM OldSchool said the following:


I agree with all of the above, i.e. for show, chrometech, for your own
enjoyment, Alclad.

If you're dead set on foiling, I'd fix the seam then foil the whole
thing as, at least in my experience, foil doesn't match the plated
surface well enough to fool the eye when they're side-by-side

The chrome plating on model car models is too shiny for scale anyway.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after at (no spam)


I'd say it is okay for a show car- a rod or custom. A good aftermarket
chrome plating job can be VERY shiny. Not many shops do it these
days, but those who do can really put a shine on it- depends on
surface prep, of course. Not much chrome plated steel on NEW cars
these days, though.


I was talking about chrome plating on model car trim. 1/25 scale etc.

on 7/17/2008 9:54 AM Don Stauffer in Minnesota said the following:
On Jul 16, 4:09 pm, willshak <wills... at (no spam) 00hvc.rr.com> wrote:

on 7/16/2008 3:46 PM OldSchool said the following:


I agree with all of the above, i.e. for show, chrometech, for your own
enjoyment, Alclad.

If you're dead set on foiling, I'd fix the seam then foil the whole
thing as, at least in my experience, foil doesn't match the plated
surface well enough to fool the eye when they're side-by-side

The chrome plating on model car models is too shiny for scale anyway.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after at (no spam)


I'd say it is okay for a show car- a rod or custom. A good aftermarket
chrome plating job can be VERY shiny. Not many shops do it these
days, but those who do can really put a shine on it- depends on
surface prep, of course. Not much chrome plated steel on NEW cars
these days, though.


I was talking about chrome plating on model car trim. 1/25 scale etc.
I miss the chrome on real cars. My 97 Nissan PU has chrome bumpers and
grill.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after at (no spam)

The chrome plating on model car models is too shiny for scale anyway.

--

Bill

While I can see the arguments behind "scale colors" I don't think that
shininess (reflectivity) has a scale. Think of car's chrome as a
distorted mirror. If you tried to model a plain flat mirror in scale
you wouldn't want to make it dull just because it's scaled down. If
you did that it would no longer properly reflect light and it would
not appear like a mirror. Same scenario applies to a chromed car
part. If you build a model of a 50's car and dull all of its chrome
parts, the model will look like a toy, not like a miniature replica of
the real car.

Peteski

"Peter W." wrote:

The chrome plating on model car models is too shiny for scale anyway.

--

Bill

While I can see the arguments behind "scale colors" I don't think that
shininess (reflectivity) has a scale.  Think of car's chrome as a
distorted mirror. If you tried to model a plain flat mirror in scale
you wouldn't want to make it dull just because it's scaled down. If
you did that it would no longer properly reflect light and it would
not appear like a mirror. Same scenario applies to a chromed car
part.  If you build a model of a 50's car and dull all of its chrome
parts, the model will look like a toy, not like a miniature replica of
the real car.

Peteski

I got one of those die-cast '79 LeBaron wagons recently and the chrome
on that model definitely does make it look toylike.  I have no idea how
to tone it down to look 'real'.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

While I can see the arguments behind "scale colors" I don't think that
shininess (reflectivity) has a scale. Think of car's chrome as a
distorted mirror. If you tried to model a plain flat mirror in scale
you wouldn't want to make it dull just because it's scaled down. If
you did that it would no longer properly reflect light and it would
not appear like a mirror. Same scenario applies to a chromed car
part. If you build a model of a 50's car and dull all of its chrome
parts, the model will look like a toy, not like a miniature replica of
the real car.

Peter W. wrote:
While I can see the arguments behind "scale colors" I don't think that
shininess (reflectivity) has a scale. Think of car's chrome as a
distorted mirror. If you tried to model a plain flat mirror in scale
you wouldn't want to make it dull just because it's scaled down. If
you did that it would no longer properly reflect light and it would
not appear like a mirror. Same scenario applies to a chromed car
part. If you build a model of a 50's car and dull all of its chrome
parts, the model will look like a toy, not like a miniature replica of
the real car.

Scale lustre (as good a name as I can come up with) is more-or-less a
subset of scale colour. Think about the basis of the scale colour
argument - how colours appear to tend towards grey with distance. By
the same argument, lustres tend towards satin, you lose the highlights
of close-up mirrors and the flatness of true matts. Certainly I would
never use full matt or full gloss at 1/72nd - just satin blends, tending
towards either extreme.