Speaking of backpacks... Can you recommend a good one that won't leave
my back completely drenched in sweat?

Scott en Aztlán wrote:

Speaking of backpacks... Can you recommend a good one that won't leave
my back completely drenched in sweat?


rack and panniers.

Picked up an older Fuji Monterey with a Suntour 7 derailleur. Bike
"skips" every 3,4 or 5 peddles. Gears look OK, no missing teeth, but it
feels like a tooth or two is absent when it skips - you get a sudden jerk
down on the peddle - anyone with the cause ? (and solution ! ) many
thanks -

Picked up an older Fuji Monterey with a Suntour 7 derailleur. Bike "skips"
every 3,4 or 5 peddles. Gears look OK, no missing teeth, but it feels like
a tooth or two is absent when it skips - you get a sudden jerk down on the
peddle - anyone with the cause ? (and solution ! ) many thanks -

I'm new to tubulars and have a question about carrying a spare-is it
necessary to preglue the spare, and if so, how is it best to carry it?
Or, can you put the spare on using the residual glue on the rim-would
this allow you to continue with the ride/race, or are you pretty much
done and have to limp back? Any pointers/opinions appreciated.
You're better off with a preglued tubular but either way, take it easy

Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with
tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge
of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car
carries spare wheels.

If glued on properly they won't roll off as clinchers do

David L. Johnson wrote:

Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with
tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge
of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car
carries spare wheels.

If glued on properly they won't roll off as clinchers do

Dan Gregory wrote:
David L. Johnson wrote:

Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with
tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge
of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car
carries spare wheels.

If glued on properly they won't roll off as clinchers do
:-(

The idea of tires rolling off is exclusively related to tubulars, not
clinchers. I've used both, and have rolled two tubulars, zero clinchers.

Why don't you trot out the other usual advantages proclaimed for tubulars:
that you can ride with them flat (not high on my list of advantages --
with clinchers, you can repair the flat, instead), that they grip the road
better (how is a matter of denial of physics), that they don't pinch flat
(I donno, I've only gone 10 years riding clinchers with, let's see, zero
pinch flats).

Look at ads for tubulars. The big selling points are that they are "round
and straight" --- meaning that many tubulars are neither, and that you
should buy this brand in order to get what most people take for granted
with clinchers.

I used to ride wonderful tubular tires, Clement Campionato del Mundo
(sp?), or Criterium Setas. Clinchers, then, were just awful. Now, very
nice, light, supple clinchers are $30, and a halfway-round tubular costs
twice that.

Sorry, unless you've got that team car following you, I just don't see the
advantages.

This is a quantitative advantage which is hard to argue against. Given this,
why did I just get some Reynolds tubular wheels? They were much lighter
than the clincher version, but hardly worth the difference in rolling
resistance.

Dan Gregory wrote:
David L. Johnson wrote:

Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with
tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the
edge of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your
team car carries spare wheels.

If glued on properly they won't roll off as clinchers do
:-(

The idea of tires rolling off is exclusively related to tubulars, not
clinchers. I've used both, and have rolled two tubulars, zero clinchers.
My glum expression wass due to the fact that I blew a front clicher on

Duncan Smith wrote:
Although I am still
trying to figure out a good way to keep the toes warm.
A fairing?
Individual foot-fairings hand-crafted out of a milk container?
And lined with silvered foil?
Insulated foot fairings would be an option on a trike, since there is no
real need for rapidly removing ones feet from the pedals.


Walking boots, woolly socks and gaiters.

The problem is combining such footwear with a foot retention system. Extra
long Power Grips or heel slings are possibilities.